RE: Mazda MX-5: Market Watch
Discussion
ash73 said:
Its comments from the Scottish MX-5 mob that had my ND in for Dintrol as soon as I got it and it'll be back in at 3 years for an inspection/top up. It is pretty depressing Mazda UK do not take this issue seriously enough to provide extra treatment for their cars.
ash73 said:
Jesus. I stand corrected. That's seriously poor.I bought a '97 Eunos just over eight years ago. It's now at 270,000kms, half of which I did. The car cost me £700 back then. I've put new cills and rear whell arches on it. It's never left me at the side of the road. I did once drive it back from Switzerland in the snow, only to realise at the channel tunnel that the engine had absolutely no coolant in it. It had done a perfectly good job of air cooling itself on the motorways.
In the years I've had it, it's been to LeMans three times (the only time I've ever had a hairdresser joke aimed at me was on a campsite there). Angouleme, Switzerland three times, Wales more often than I can remember.
It's sat outside in all weather, until last year when I put it in a friends barn for the worst winter months - I'll be doing the same this year.
It's no longer my daily, I've got other faster things now, and more comfoortable things, and older things - but the mileage is still going up. I used it just this morning for my 12yr old's school run. A one hour round trip here in rural Suffolk on perfect B roads, it is utterly at home. A complete joy.
It's bog standard, except for a set of coilovers that leave it about an inch and a half lower.
I don't and never have felt the need for more power. It's not the fastest, if you want that go and buy something else. On the right road, in the right weather, it's the best car on my driveway.
Here's a photo of it resting at the top of the Furka pass.
In the years I've had it, it's been to LeMans three times (the only time I've ever had a hairdresser joke aimed at me was on a campsite there). Angouleme, Switzerland three times, Wales more often than I can remember.
It's sat outside in all weather, until last year when I put it in a friends barn for the worst winter months - I'll be doing the same this year.
It's no longer my daily, I've got other faster things now, and more comfoortable things, and older things - but the mileage is still going up. I used it just this morning for my 12yr old's school run. A one hour round trip here in rural Suffolk on perfect B roads, it is utterly at home. A complete joy.
It's bog standard, except for a set of coilovers that leave it about an inch and a half lower.
I don't and never have felt the need for more power. It's not the fastest, if you want that go and buy something else. On the right road, in the right weather, it's the best car on my driveway.
Here's a photo of it resting at the top of the Furka pass.
In cost/benefit terms, which one of the following could most improve the long term reputation and residuals of a £23,000 sport car?
1. Bigger wheels
2. Better satnav
3. Leather seats
4. A few quids worth of underseal
I'm no bean counter, but it seems like a no-brainer to me. Obviously the wheels, innit. Bling baby!
1. Bigger wheels
2. Better satnav
3. Leather seats
4. A few quids worth of underseal
I'm no bean counter, but it seems like a no-brainer to me. Obviously the wheels, innit. Bling baby!
dieseluser07 said:
How could one know from a view at a dealership if the car has rusted underneath or if the rust is minimal etc?
Get down on your hands and knees, have them jack the car up, get a flash light and a screwdriver and inspect and prod around critical areas. You might look funny doing this on a dealer lot but it's better than you driving away with the car and finding the issues later. cib24 said:
dieseluser07 said:
How could one know from a view at a dealership if the car has rusted underneath or if the rust is minimal etc?
Get down on your hands and knees, have them jack the car up, get a flash light and a screwdriver and inspect and prod around critical areas. You might look funny doing this on a dealer lot but it's better than you driving away with the car and finding the issues later. The holy grail is to find a car that has a photographic record of repair work but you might be waiting a while! There are still fresh imports coming in that are more or less rust free too. They command a premium but might still make financial sense.
Whatever approach is taken, once you have a rust free car, it's worth going to town on keeping it that way. Undersealing it properly is expensive and time consuming but worth it. It will need cleaning, drying and prepping before the protective coat goes on, so be wary of any places that can do that in a day.
This might all sound over the top but it's really just what is required to get to a good starting point. After that, maintaining it isn't too taxing.
Loved mine for 5 years. But...sadly I am just using it less and less and the time has come in the coming weeks to sell up.
I have learnt a lot of tinkering with my NC, most of all not being fearful of taking it apart and about the importance of alignment (thank you to Blink Motorsport).
In regards to specifically NC rust watch the rear arch lips, boot around the number plate lights, front indicators, underneath suspension wise etc. for surface rust. In regards to more "terminal" rust then watch the sills, most of all just forward of the rear wheels near the seat belt mounting points where there is a void and the metal is thin to be nice as well as being a good rust trap for anything that could get in there.
In regards to other elements watch the NC MZR engines for oil use, the dipstick in the early cars is difficult to read, they like a little oil and even if kept just above minimum it might not save the big ends - 1.8 engines are more expensive than the more fruitful 2.0 engines as well. I have seen a few other engine related issues,but they are more minor. Suspension wise watch the droplinks which are a poor design from Mazda.
There is now a huge market for modding the NC which I have enjoyed.
For me:
Get it cleaned undeneath, check the underside, attend to any serious rust and get it protected throughout
Get it lowered on decent suspension, ARB's and droplinks done
Alignment find someone that knows the MX5 well.
And enjoy...and check the top up the underside yearly.
I have learnt a lot of tinkering with my NC, most of all not being fearful of taking it apart and about the importance of alignment (thank you to Blink Motorsport).
In regards to specifically NC rust watch the rear arch lips, boot around the number plate lights, front indicators, underneath suspension wise etc. for surface rust. In regards to more "terminal" rust then watch the sills, most of all just forward of the rear wheels near the seat belt mounting points where there is a void and the metal is thin to be nice as well as being a good rust trap for anything that could get in there.
In regards to other elements watch the NC MZR engines for oil use, the dipstick in the early cars is difficult to read, they like a little oil and even if kept just above minimum it might not save the big ends - 1.8 engines are more expensive than the more fruitful 2.0 engines as well. I have seen a few other engine related issues,but they are more minor. Suspension wise watch the droplinks which are a poor design from Mazda.
There is now a huge market for modding the NC which I have enjoyed.
For me:
Get it cleaned undeneath, check the underside, attend to any serious rust and get it protected throughout
Get it lowered on decent suspension, ARB's and droplinks done
Alignment find someone that knows the MX5 well.
And enjoy...and check the top up the underside yearly.
ambuletz said:
err yes really.
- a real person doesn't give a crap what others think, if they like something they'll buy it. its a proper manly trait.
- the hairdresser thing is about 10+ years old. many of those types tend to buy 'cc' versions of hatchbacks now, or they'll get a MINI cabrio.
- MX-5 isn't about being quick, in the 25+ years it's been out it never has been. cheap, affordable RWD, reliable, easy to run
- TVR's are more expensive, higher costs to maintain, older, less reliable, big biills when they go wrong
- 'man up' comment, see first point.
going back to TVR.. for similar price what kind of TVR are you getting? something called a 'wedge' (before my time), that's only going to 'appeal' to those with grey hair.
Look, son, not everyone likes these horrible, parasitic little cars ok? Who buys them and why is not something I lose sleep over. I suggest you do the same and get over it before you give yersen an aneurysm.- a real person doesn't give a crap what others think, if they like something they'll buy it. its a proper manly trait.
- the hairdresser thing is about 10+ years old. many of those types tend to buy 'cc' versions of hatchbacks now, or they'll get a MINI cabrio.
- MX-5 isn't about being quick, in the 25+ years it's been out it never has been. cheap, affordable RWD, reliable, easy to run
- TVR's are more expensive, higher costs to maintain, older, less reliable, big biills when they go wrong
- 'man up' comment, see first point.
going back to TVR.. for similar price what kind of TVR are you getting? something called a 'wedge' (before my time), that's only going to 'appeal' to those with grey hair.
And of course I don't expect a reply because you don't care about the opinion of others. And that makes you a man right?
Even the Mash doesn't rate the NB highly. http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/society/car-app...
mx5 values seem to be all over the place for the mk1.
leggy but loved and useable examples appear to be available from under a grand to 1500 quid, and lower mile examples being advertised for between 3-4k on some dealer websites.
I have a mk1 Monacco - the slow version. its got 56,000 miles on the clock and has been garaged for the past 8/9 years. it passed its MOT the other day with only a 300 quid worth of work including new tyres all round.
I am not hell bent on selling it (its kept at my parents) costs 100 quid to insure and peanuts to run. But whether its worth a grand or 3.5k I have no idea.
I did email south west roadsters to ask the guy there how much the 55,000 mile Monaco he recently sold (against a 4k asking price) went for but he didn't reply.
leggy but loved and useable examples appear to be available from under a grand to 1500 quid, and lower mile examples being advertised for between 3-4k on some dealer websites.
I have a mk1 Monacco - the slow version. its got 56,000 miles on the clock and has been garaged for the past 8/9 years. it passed its MOT the other day with only a 300 quid worth of work including new tyres all round.
I am not hell bent on selling it (its kept at my parents) costs 100 quid to insure and peanuts to run. But whether its worth a grand or 3.5k I have no idea.
I did email south west roadsters to ask the guy there how much the 55,000 mile Monaco he recently sold (against a 4k asking price) went for but he didn't reply.
Johnny5hoods said:
In cost/benefit terms, which one of the following could most improve the long term reputation and residuals of a £23,000 sport car?
1. Bigger wheels
2. Better satnav
3. Leather seats
4. A few quids worth of underseal
I'm no bean counter, but it seems like a no-brainer to me. Obviously the wheels, innit. Bling baby!
Production management over at Hiroshima must really know what they're doing. I think they're misunderstood geniuses! 1. Bigger wheels
2. Better satnav
3. Leather seats
4. A few quids worth of underseal
I'm no bean counter, but it seems like a no-brainer to me. Obviously the wheels, innit. Bling baby!
Gad-Westy said:
Only trouble is that on Mk1 and Mk2, inner sills rust first and then spreads to outer sills which is when it's spotted. Some cheapo get it though an MOT and get it sold type repairs will just be to the outer sill to cover up the issue. I think this an area where you just get a feel for whether it's likely to have been done properly by the general approach to all the other maintenance on the car. If that's lacking or showing corners being cut then there is a reasonable chance that when faced with the option of £300 patch up repair vs £1500 proper repair, you'll know what's been done.
The holy grail is to find a car that has a photographic record of repair work but you might be waiting a while! There are still fresh imports coming in that are more or less rust free too. They command a premium but might still make financial sense.
Whatever approach is taken, once you have a rust free car, it's worth going to town on keeping it that way. Undersealing it properly is expensive and time consuming but worth it. It will need cleaning, drying and prepping before the protective coat goes on, so be wary of any places that can do that in a day.
This might all sound over the top but it's really just what is required to get to a good starting point. After that, maintaining it isn't too taxing.
Is it not simple to pull the carpet back near the sills and have a look to see if you can see anything from the interior before exploring the underside and trying to peak through to the inner sills? The holy grail is to find a car that has a photographic record of repair work but you might be waiting a while! There are still fresh imports coming in that are more or less rust free too. They command a premium but might still make financial sense.
Whatever approach is taken, once you have a rust free car, it's worth going to town on keeping it that way. Undersealing it properly is expensive and time consuming but worth it. It will need cleaning, drying and prepping before the protective coat goes on, so be wary of any places that can do that in a day.
This might all sound over the top but it's really just what is required to get to a good starting point. After that, maintaining it isn't too taxing.
JMF894 said:
This.
I've driven them on track days and find them under endowed, effeminate and cramped. Real sports cars have 6 or 8 cylinder engines and make a proper noise.........
Man up, grow some chest hair and sort it out................
PS Only on the wind up, glad they exist just not my bag x
I have a Boxster S with a turbo conversion. 6 cylinders and 375 bhp. My Eunos is more of a sports car.I've driven them on track days and find them under endowed, effeminate and cramped. Real sports cars have 6 or 8 cylinder engines and make a proper noise.........
Man up, grow some chest hair and sort it out................
PS Only on the wind up, glad they exist just not my bag x
culpz said:
Jesus. I stand corrected. That's seriously poor.
Shocking but not unlike Mazda. This is why nearly all of their cars except their SUVs which have a tone of plastic coverings underneath tend to rust so quickly. RX-8s had the same problem and the only reason the RX-7 FD's generally don't rust is the better application of underseal and more paint everywhere on the chassis. Plus aluminum suspension components compared to RX-8s and MX-5s which are mostly steel. I used to work with a cop who was a big guy. And I mean big in stature, over 6'3"+ and the physique of a veteran bodybuilder.
He turned up for a morning shift and proclaimed he had a new car, and being innocent lambs to the slaughtered we thought he may have purchased a Landrover, or something that was the mechanical equivalent of him
I remember we laughed our socks off watching him get in his little red mk1 (bought to replace a Triumph GT6 no less), and fell about when he erected the roof, as we noticed a head-shaped lump in the hood.
He countered this with "f
k ff, a second class ride is better than a first class walk!"
Yet he loved that car, and still had it up to his death earlier this year.
Personally I think there's a delicate appeal to the Mk1, it's proportions are nigh-on perfect, and yes it pays homage to the Lotus Elan but that's not a bad thing.
It is so inherently 'right' with no need for massive power, large diameter wheel rims and rubber-band tyres, stupidly stiff suspension etc.
I often bang on about the seemingly never-ending arms race where manufacturers seem to feel that more power is always the answer, irrespective of the question.
I do honestly believe that the Mk1 & 2 cars are proven examples of how a vehicle doesn't need to have an excess of power to be fun, and for that fun and power to be useable on a regular basis.
He turned up for a morning shift and proclaimed he had a new car, and being innocent lambs to the slaughtered we thought he may have purchased a Landrover, or something that was the mechanical equivalent of him
I remember we laughed our socks off watching him get in his little red mk1 (bought to replace a Triumph GT6 no less), and fell about when he erected the roof, as we noticed a head-shaped lump in the hood.
He countered this with "f
k ff, a second class ride is better than a first class walk!"Yet he loved that car, and still had it up to his death earlier this year.
Personally I think there's a delicate appeal to the Mk1, it's proportions are nigh-on perfect, and yes it pays homage to the Lotus Elan but that's not a bad thing.
It is so inherently 'right' with no need for massive power, large diameter wheel rims and rubber-band tyres, stupidly stiff suspension etc.
I often bang on about the seemingly never-ending arms race where manufacturers seem to feel that more power is always the answer, irrespective of the question.
I do honestly believe that the Mk1 & 2 cars are proven examples of how a vehicle doesn't need to have an excess of power to be fun, and for that fun and power to be useable on a regular basis.
cib24 said:
Is it not simple to pull the carpet back near the sills and have a look to see if you can see anything from the interior before exploring the underside and trying to peak through to the inner sills?
Depends how far it's spread. If it's rusty under the carpets then that is bad news. If it's clear, you still don't really know for certain. But how many sellers are happy for you to start pulling trim off? If they are, there is also an inspection hole behind trim panel behind the door. An endoscope in there would be revealing. Other approach is to simply buy a cheap lemon with known rust and get it fixed properly from the outset.
culpz said:
Jesus. I stand corrected. That's seriously poor.
Shocking but not unlike Mazda. This is why nearly all of their cars except their SUVs which have a tone of plastic coverings underneath tend to rust so quickly. RX-8s had the same problem and the only reason the RX-7 FD's generally don't rust is the better application of underseal and more paint everywhere on the chassis. Plus aluminum suspension components compared to RX-8s and MX-5s which are mostly steel. JMF894 said:
Look, son, not everyone likes these horrible, parasitic little cars ok? Who buys them and why is not something I lose sleep over. I suggest you do the same and get over it before you give yersen an aneurysm.
And of course I don't expect a reply because you don't care about the opinion of others. And that makes you a man right?
Still got to post crap on an otherwise friendly thread like a child though....And of course I don't expect a reply because you don't care about the opinion of others. And that makes you a man right?
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