Discussion
I bought a Citroen XM 2.1TD with 120,000 miles on the clock for £120.
Five years, two kids, numerous short journeys, tip runs and generally being treated pretty poorly I decided to move it on.
It had 193,000 miles on it, and i sold it for £120
Five years, two kids, numerous short journeys, tip runs and generally being treated pretty poorly I decided to move it on.
It had 193,000 miles on it, and i sold it for £120
Edited by boyse7en on Friday 2nd February 16:05
I'll just post this here, I was very tempted to buy this actually
http://www.evo.co.uk/features/20185/richard-attwoo...
http://www.evo.co.uk/features/20185/richard-attwoo...
itcaptainslow said:
It took three pages for someone to get it, I’m a bit gutted!
Oi! I got there first The 'Eco' part of 'Ecotec' shouldn't be applied to the 2.8 turbo V6s, just so you know
Just for thread relevance, that engine was absolutely faultless at 168k
Edited by Jimmy Recard on Friday 2nd February 16:17
Edited by Jimmy Recard on Friday 2nd February 16:20
There was a local guy who had a 309 1.9D (if I remember correctly) on about 350k.
My V70 is on 167k and it's not doing bad. It only needed an exhaust bracket and headlight bulb for last years MOT.
With oil recommendations, I often get told that their car has passed 100k, so needs thicker oil. 100k is nothing now and unless the engine is badly worn (leading to high oil consumption), you don't need a thicker oil for a higher mileage car. Some cars will burn a litre every 1000 miles, but last until 250k.
Cheers
Tim
My V70 is on 167k and it's not doing bad. It only needed an exhaust bracket and headlight bulb for last years MOT.
With oil recommendations, I often get told that their car has passed 100k, so needs thicker oil. 100k is nothing now and unless the engine is badly worn (leading to high oil consumption), you don't need a thicker oil for a higher mileage car. Some cars will burn a litre every 1000 miles, but last until 250k.
Cheers
Tim
SystemParanoia said:
See my 06 Focus.. 186k tight as a drum and still going strong
Same for my 05 Astra, but that's only on 124k06 Vectra on 168k was also just as fresh
ETA: Astra is a 2.0 turbo, Vectra was a 2.8 turbo V6. Cambelt on the Astra, chains on the Vectra. Both petrol
Edited by Jimmy Recard on Friday 2nd February 16:25
lord trumpton said:
A high mile newish car can be OK, but in my experience an older high miler can be a constant drain.
Everything perishes with age - rubber seal, bushes, wiring connections, turbo hoses etc
It's not the engine these days that is the weak link with the miles - more the likelihood of running gear/transmission/electrical issues that can be a wallet hoover.
I also think with the older high milers you have to accept certain quirks and flaws - If you are fanatical or a perfectionist then a high miler is best avoided.
Years ago I took a car allowance in lieu of a company car and had 2 nearly new BMW turbo-diesels.Everything perishes with age - rubber seal, bushes, wiring connections, turbo hoses etc
It's not the engine these days that is the weak link with the miles - more the likelihood of running gear/transmission/electrical issues that can be a wallet hoover.
I also think with the older high milers you have to accept certain quirks and flaws - If you are fanatical or a perfectionist then a high miler is best avoided.
I left that job in 2010 (so no car allowance) and the 5-year service pack on the 2nd one expired (and unlike Mrs Tidy's Mini R56 Cooper that had 5 years with an option to buy another 3 years) it couldn't be extended - and a battery then a starter motor died (I blame stop/start)!
So I sold it in 2012 and bought a 10 year old straight 6 petrol E46 that I still have.
What I have spent on fixing that isn't even a fraction of what the diesels cost me in depreciation. And it drives so much better too!
I think the issues around longevity and mileage are actually quite complicated.
In theory, most modern cars should be capable of reaching 100,000 miles and often much more. However many factors affect this.
Mileage brings wear and tear - this usually makes owner 1 sell the car for a new one. Owner 2 will take on some of this, but does not want to be replacing more expensive wear items such as springs/dampers etc. so they sell.
What happens next is critical - some owners will look after the car properly, some will not and eventually something more major will go and the car ends up at the breakers.
Mileage on its own is not always a major factor, nor is age, it is the combination of the two that takes its toll. I have an 11 year old Focus ST with 66k on the clock and a 38 year old MGB with 142k on the clock. The Focus has never really needed much other than an annual service, the MGB had significant work about 20 years ago (circa 120k) to make it into a good one. Both cars are garaged and not used in winter, this, in my opinion, is absolutely critical, especially for the MGB.
On a car used all year round in Britain, salt/rust will eventually take its toll. First it will be suspension components (arms/links), then bits of the body, then structural rust. There is a reason why cars in the the dry states of the USA last longer than over here.
Economics and government policy also play their part. The costs of repair/maintenance vs the value of the car often sees otherwise good cars being disposed of/become a banger/broken for spares. Modern pollution equipment and electronics may will cause the demise of an otherwise decent car because of the aforementioned costs of repair. Government policy, such as tax incentives for 'low emission' cars also encourage people to replace older cars with new(er).
As a general rule, assuming a car is well looked after, there are spend cycles, such as:
- tyres circa 20-30k
- brakes 40-60k
- suspension components and clutch 80-120k
These cycles are reapeated at these mileage intervals repeat. This is clearly very general and depends upon make/model, driver (driving style+maintenance) but is a guide.
This does not include model specific problems or pollution control items (DPF etc.) that can result in an early demise.
In theory, most modern cars should be capable of reaching 100,000 miles and often much more. However many factors affect this.
Mileage brings wear and tear - this usually makes owner 1 sell the car for a new one. Owner 2 will take on some of this, but does not want to be replacing more expensive wear items such as springs/dampers etc. so they sell.
What happens next is critical - some owners will look after the car properly, some will not and eventually something more major will go and the car ends up at the breakers.
Mileage on its own is not always a major factor, nor is age, it is the combination of the two that takes its toll. I have an 11 year old Focus ST with 66k on the clock and a 38 year old MGB with 142k on the clock. The Focus has never really needed much other than an annual service, the MGB had significant work about 20 years ago (circa 120k) to make it into a good one. Both cars are garaged and not used in winter, this, in my opinion, is absolutely critical, especially for the MGB.
On a car used all year round in Britain, salt/rust will eventually take its toll. First it will be suspension components (arms/links), then bits of the body, then structural rust. There is a reason why cars in the the dry states of the USA last longer than over here.
Economics and government policy also play their part. The costs of repair/maintenance vs the value of the car often sees otherwise good cars being disposed of/become a banger/broken for spares. Modern pollution equipment and electronics may will cause the demise of an otherwise decent car because of the aforementioned costs of repair. Government policy, such as tax incentives for 'low emission' cars also encourage people to replace older cars with new(er).
As a general rule, assuming a car is well looked after, there are spend cycles, such as:
- tyres circa 20-30k
- brakes 40-60k
- suspension components and clutch 80-120k
These cycles are reapeated at these mileage intervals repeat. This is clearly very general and depends upon make/model, driver (driving style+maintenance) but is a guide.
This does not include model specific problems or pollution control items (DPF etc.) that can result in an early demise.
Edited by Alex P on Saturday 3rd February 09:08
Just bought a 2007 V50 diesel with 189,000 miles on the clock.
For some reason, it doesn't bother me... car drives tight as a drum, had huge list of parts replaced recently and the engine is strong and the gearbox feels fine. It's spent most of it's life doing a fairly long motorway commute so you'd hope, easy miles with a fastidious previous owner.
Granted, the resale value is next to bugger all but it's currently doing 60mpg+ and is a nice place to be, interior is immaculate...
Could blow up tomorrow, much like a colleagues 2009 520D which has just thrown the chain at 70k.
Dear day out for him!
For some reason, it doesn't bother me... car drives tight as a drum, had huge list of parts replaced recently and the engine is strong and the gearbox feels fine. It's spent most of it's life doing a fairly long motorway commute so you'd hope, easy miles with a fastidious previous owner.
Granted, the resale value is next to bugger all but it's currently doing 60mpg+ and is a nice place to be, interior is immaculate...
Could blow up tomorrow, much like a colleagues 2009 520D which has just thrown the chain at 70k.
Dear day out for him!
Alex P said:
As a general rule, assuming a car is well looked after, there are spend cycles, such as:
- tyres circa 20-30k
- brakes 40-60k
- suspension components and clutch 80-120k
These cycles are reapeated at these mileage intervals repeat. This is clearly very general and depends upon make/model, driver (driving style+maintenance) but is a guide.
This does not include model specific problems or pollution control items (DPF etc.) that can result in an early demise.
This ^^- tyres circa 20-30k
- brakes 40-60k
- suspension components and clutch 80-120k
These cycles are reapeated at these mileage intervals repeat. This is clearly very general and depends upon make/model, driver (driving style+maintenance) but is a guide.
This does not include model specific problems or pollution control items (DPF etc.) that can result in an early demise.
Edited by Alex P on Saturday 3rd February 09:08
You can see a situation where all the above cycles coincide. Car goes in for "just a service" at around 80k and gets knocked for 4th set of replacement tyres. second set of brakes and some suspension work.
If it's only 3 years old then the owner would get it done, or trade it in to someone who would. Freshly refurbed at 80k it will no doubt still be largely good at 130k and supports the OP's assertion.
If the car was a 10 years old and 80k then it is more likely to be scrapped, or bodged and sold on to someone who will then struggle to share the OP's enthusiasm for 100000 mile cars.
My dad runs a Saab 93 with the 1.9TD engine Auto
Bought it with 31k on the clock in 2015 (Its an 08) and due to his work its just hit 200,000 miles
Gets an oil change and check over every 10k as its his money maker.
Engine touch wood runs as good now as it did 100k ago. We are doing bets how long it'll go. My guess is 350k which wont take long given how much he uses it.
Its immaculate inside and out as he's OCD. There is wear starting though on the steering column and the front shocks are knocking again (already been changed once)
Bought it with 31k on the clock in 2015 (Its an 08) and due to his work its just hit 200,000 miles
Gets an oil change and check over every 10k as its his money maker.
Engine touch wood runs as good now as it did 100k ago. We are doing bets how long it'll go. My guess is 350k which wont take long given how much he uses it.
Its immaculate inside and out as he's OCD. There is wear starting though on the steering column and the front shocks are knocking again (already been changed once)
Good to see some (sensible) different views on 'high mileage'.
Mileage isn't something that even enters my mind when buying a car, i buy on condition.
We've had a few high milers ( I class high as 200+) and loads of 100k+ and not really experienced any major issues.
Most recent is a honda crv on 134k had a clutch and flywheel replaced before we bought it and drives lovely.
Stepdad bought a 4 year old truck on 130k and it's like brand new.
Had a terrano on 400k and the thrust bearing had worn making every drive headache inducing. And have a 290k old truck sat on the drive that refuses to start.
Mileage isn't something that even enters my mind when buying a car, i buy on condition.
We've had a few high milers ( I class high as 200+) and loads of 100k+ and not really experienced any major issues.
Most recent is a honda crv on 134k had a clutch and flywheel replaced before we bought it and drives lovely.
Stepdad bought a 4 year old truck on 130k and it's like brand new.
Had a terrano on 400k and the thrust bearing had worn making every drive headache inducing. And have a 290k old truck sat on the drive that refuses to start.
Willy Nilly said:
JakeT said:
Dads 2003 3.0i X5. One owner from new, and not given an easy life. Been used to smash around Berkshire lanes all its life, lots of family car type stuff and even done some off roading when needed. Still used daily. Runs dead fine, and has never given any trouble. Costs at least £2,000 per year in maintenance, but it's worth so little I think we'll take it to 250,000 miles and then give it a retirement as a runaround/utility thing.
15p per mile in maintenance? Ouch. I have had 2 cars beyond 100k
The Skoda Superb I had was fine mechanically, but lots of the interior bits had gotten very tatty. Oh and I do remember coming back from holiday to find the front right spring had snapped and dropped the car into the pavement.
The Honda Civic I had from 20k miles to nearly 110k. Again the engine was bob on, but the clutch was on its way out, the suspension sounded like it had come apart (but was being held together with road dirt), the undertray kept ripping out of its fixings and the interior got really tatty. In fact the interior got really tatty by about 60k.
I think I would buy another 100k + car providing the price is right and the condition is right.
The Skoda Superb I had was fine mechanically, but lots of the interior bits had gotten very tatty. Oh and I do remember coming back from holiday to find the front right spring had snapped and dropped the car into the pavement.
The Honda Civic I had from 20k miles to nearly 110k. Again the engine was bob on, but the clutch was on its way out, the suspension sounded like it had come apart (but was being held together with road dirt), the undertray kept ripping out of its fixings and the interior got really tatty. In fact the interior got really tatty by about 60k.
I think I would buy another 100k + car providing the price is right and the condition is right.
MrBarry123 said:
Car-Matt said:
Lovely
But why are you showing a chart of depreciation?
But why are you showing a chart of depreciation?
This thread deserved a Yippering given the st effort by the OP.
I recently went out with £5000 to find a Volvo V70. I wanted a facelifted P2 in add good condition as I could.
I drove several but the one that really stood out in the way it drove was a 2002 pre-facelift one. Owner got fed up of doing work to it, and decided to buy a new XC90 to replace it.
What I've ended up with is a lovely one owner Volvo that is 15 years old & bought with 119k on. Bought it for £1000 & I've spent £400 on bits and bobs (two tyres, wheel balancing all round, 4 wheel alignment & gearbox fluid change) and I've put 6k on it so far without any issues.
I drove several but the one that really stood out in the way it drove was a 2002 pre-facelift one. Owner got fed up of doing work to it, and decided to buy a new XC90 to replace it.
What I've ended up with is a lovely one owner Volvo that is 15 years old & bought with 119k on. Bought it for £1000 & I've spent £400 on bits and bobs (two tyres, wheel balancing all round, 4 wheel alignment & gearbox fluid change) and I've put 6k on it so far without any issues.
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