MOT - engine management light - does it have to be visible?
Discussion
Graunching_dave said:
Sounds like your tester is a . I don’t want you or your potentially faulty vehicle driving anywhere near me.
Hahaha what a ridiculous response. There are lots of dodgy Mot testers out there. You could be right next to a car that only has an mot in name and you wouldn't even know. I've had cars mot'd just by calling up a 3rd party - the cars didn't leave my drive. One time I went to a completely new mot station with incorrect plates/vin and the tester passed it. When you're trying to survive, you're not going to complain about an eml light...
A tip I picked up from a really good diagnostic guy a few years ago is if you are fault finding, disconnect the battery and short the leads together... and carry on with the diagnosis.
did this on a Honda recently, couldn't get the light to go off despite changing the offending part and re-setting the light. disconnected the battery, flashed the leads together... no more light, been off months now!
did this on a Honda recently, couldn't get the light to go off despite changing the offending part and re-setting the light. disconnected the battery, flashed the leads together... no more light, been off months now!
zixujo said:
Hahaha what a ridiculous response. There are lots of dodgy Mot testers out there. You could be right next to a car that only has an mot in name and you wouldn't even know. I've had cars mot'd just by calling up a 3rd party - the cars didn't leave my drive. One time I went to a completely new mot station with incorrect plates/vin and the tester passed it.
When you're trying to survive, you're not going to complain about an eml light...
Most of the time cars fail on brakes and tyres, the drivers very often unaware, you can usually spot which ones are going to fail. If your happy to drive around in a potentially unsafe car then good for you, just keep it away from other road users.When you're trying to survive, you're not going to complain about an eml light...
Whatever you do with the light it will still most likely fail the cat test anyway . It needs some testing to prove the pre cat 02 is getting heater power and ground and to see if it’s switching when at fast idle “ closed loop “ conditions . It most likely shares heater ground with other stuff bolted to the block somewhere . My 2p as a tester would be have a good poke around the rear arches /inner sill /sill end as that’s what I find that scraps these at that age
zixujo said:
Hahaha what a ridiculous response. There are lots of dodgy Mot testers out there. You could be right next to a car that only has an mot in name and you wouldn't even know. I've had cars mot'd just by calling up a 3rd party - the cars didn't leave my drive. One time I went to a completely new mot station with incorrect plates/vin and the tester passed it.
When you're trying to survive, you're not going to complain about an eml light...
You sound like scum, unpleasant scum. In an ironic response I truly hope that you or a family member get seriously hurt, I mean life changing injury hurt, by a car with a dodgy MOT. A car that should have failed on tyres, brakes, suspension, something potentially serious and see if your ‘trying to survive’ attitude still flies. If you’re that hard up take public transport, get a lift or even walk. I don’t care if you think there is a difference between fit for purpose or truly failing the MOT rules are there to apply to everyone. You won’t care about my reply as it won’t change your view and you’ll continue to think that you’re correct but I’m right, you are scum. Most us who aren’t powerfully built company directors have been skint at times, maybe even on the bones of your arse skint but that doesn’t excuse illegal activity wether it’s the ‘trivial’ act of procuring a dodgy MOT, theft or any other dishonest act.When you're trying to survive, you're not going to complain about an eml light...
I'm going to admit defeat and book it in, had a bit of a look this morning and found this with the sensor unplugged...
Plugged back in and cleared codes, sensor voltage looks like this:
Then when I rev the engine:
Then, after a while, it jumps to a constant 1.3v and the engine warning light comes in.
Error:
Plugged back in and cleared codes, sensor voltage looks like this:
Then when I rev the engine:
Then, after a while, it jumps to a constant 1.3v and the engine warning light comes in.
Error:
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