The Joy of Running an Old Shed
Discussion
spreadsheet monkey said:
Is the engine management light on - and if so, can you get the fault code? How does the engine run? Rough idle or sudden drops in power could be injectors.
Engine runs fine to my knowledge. Smooth idle. No drops in power noticed. I have been covering 500 miles per week since August with no troubles except the low oil message as mentioned earlier.993kimbo said:
Going to pick this old boy up at the weekend hopefully.
Would greatly appreciate any tips upon what to check/look out for as I've never owned a Volvo before and I'm hoping to take the family abroad in it next year without having to spend too much above the shed purchase price.
2002 Volvo V70
2.4 Petrol, Auto
110,000 miles
MOT March 2021
Service History (Volvo up until 64k)
Recent service
Cambelt, waterpump done
Many thanks for any pointers
Shed Of The Week featured a V70 recently and covered the other minor weak points. Lots of Readers Cars threads on V70s on here - they’re a popular choice.
(https://www.pistonheads.com/news/general/shed-of-the-week--volvo-v70/40363)
Keep having dirty thoughts about upgrading the shed A4. Clutch is slipping a bit, it has no undertray so any puddles keep causing (well, I am assuming) the alternator belt to slip or disengage temporarily as the battery light will flash after a puddle. It's now dropping more oil on the drive than it ever has before and still needs a set of rear tyres and a CV boot.
But.. it has 11 months MOT. Hhhhmm.
But.. it has 11 months MOT. Hhhhmm.
CDP said:
M4cruiser said:
Emeye said:
My 2000 Honda Accord 1.8S passed it's MOT without a flinch.
Well done, and you got a free apostrophe into the bargain. Did the certificate mention the brake's, tyre's or the emi's'sion's? 
I wouldn't normally bring something like this up but shouldn't your question be punctuated with a question mark?
I had a falling out with my shed when it failed it's MOT on more brake troubles and needing new tyres.
After test driving an F30 320d I realised that I didn't need to spend £10k to drive a dull diesel so had the required work done and bought two tyres from black circles. £200 later I have a full MOT again and shall treat the shed to fresh oil once it clicks over 130,000 miles (next month).
As mentioned earlier the used car market at the minute seems bonkers and anything sensibly priced is selling very quickly. With most stuff looking expensive or having dubious history with big bills in the near future.
After test driving an F30 320d I realised that I didn't need to spend £10k to drive a dull diesel so had the required work done and bought two tyres from black circles. £200 later I have a full MOT again and shall treat the shed to fresh oil once it clicks over 130,000 miles (next month).
As mentioned earlier the used car market at the minute seems bonkers and anything sensibly priced is selling very quickly. With most stuff looking expensive or having dubious history with big bills in the near future.
Salmonofdoubt said:
I had a falling out with my shed when it failed it's MOT on more brake troubles and needing new tyres.
After test driving an F30 320d I realised that I didn't need to spend £10k to drive a dull diesel so had the required work done and bought two tyres from black circles. £200 later I have a full MOT again and shall treat the shed to fresh oil once it clicks over 130,000 miles (next month).
As mentioned earlier the used car market at the minute seems bonkers and anything sensibly priced is selling very quickly. With most stuff looking expensive or having dubious history with big bills in the near future.
What have you got, out of interest?After test driving an F30 320d I realised that I didn't need to spend £10k to drive a dull diesel so had the required work done and bought two tyres from black circles. £200 later I have a full MOT again and shall treat the shed to fresh oil once it clicks over 130,000 miles (next month).
As mentioned earlier the used car market at the minute seems bonkers and anything sensibly priced is selling very quickly. With most stuff looking expensive or having dubious history with big bills in the near future.
I like to think I'll have the same mindset when it comes to my next dull commuter and stick with shedding.
I imagine a 320d would be a fair bit nicer than my current astra so next shed needs to be a bit more plush and automatic preferably
CX53 said:
What have you got, out of interest?
I like to think I'll have the same mindset when it comes to my next dull commuter and stick with shedding.
I imagine a 320d would be a fair bit nicer than my current astra so next shed needs to be a bit more plush and automatic preferably
I've got a 2007 Cee'd estate with the pre dpf 1.6 diesel It's covered just over 50,000 miles in 25 months and only had consumables. I did 950 miles in 4 days in it the other week and it just dealt with it. They do appear to like rust though but none structural yet. I like to think I'll have the same mindset when it comes to my next dull commuter and stick with shedding.
I imagine a 320d would be a fair bit nicer than my current astra so next shed needs to be a bit more plush and automatic preferably
I couldn't get comfortable in the f30 and think I had expected some sort of refinement improvement from the engine which was if anything louder than my car.
BricktopST205 said:
Problem with a lot of sheds is they get under your skin and you get a sense of pleasure bringing them up to scratch again.
Bought this little lot to do a suspension refresh on my manual Saab 9-5 Aero Estate.
Have only done the back end so far but has improved massively. Polys haven't really changed the NVH either. Just made it a lot sharper.
Just shows how we're all different, which makes it more fun! I like working out a list of priorities based on what maintenance I need to do, what I should do and what I can ignore for best value.Bought this little lot to do a suspension refresh on my manual Saab 9-5 Aero Estate.
Have only done the back end so far but has improved massively. Polys haven't really changed the NVH either. Just made it a lot sharper.
For example
1. Need is anything to do with safety or that could cause me to break down
2. Should. I think that ignoring oil changes and belt/tensioner changes is just a false economy, unless you're only slightly past the interval to see if it gets another MOT before committing. Seems silly to ignore something like oil or belts and ruin an engine or find yourself stranded. Or to ignore something like brake fluid that could leave me with brake fade, however unlikely. I put tracking under this also, partly for safety and partly because it's annoying to ruin tyres prematurely.
3. Ignore. Tatty bodywork and interior, worn dampers (unless they pose any safety issue),
Emeye said:
CDP said:
M4cruiser said:
Emeye said:
My 2000 Honda Accord 1.8S passed it's MOT without a flinch.
Well done, and you got a free apostrophe into the bargain. Did the certificate mention the brake's, tyre's or the emi's'sion's? I wouldn't normally bring something like this up but shouldn't your question be punctuated with a question mark?
Which makes me a loser. Fair play.
The it's v. its is a funny rule in English though so while incorrect it's not in the same ballpark as "brake's" or "tyre's".
CinnamonFan said:
1995cc diesel.
1CD-FTV.Check your crankcase ventilation system. Known to give trouble and it recirculates liquid oil back into the inlet system which is then burnt, rather than separating it out and the oil flowing back to the sump and the slight oil vapour and gases going back through the turbo, etc.
See a lot of taxis around here with it, and everyone assumes it's the turbo that is on the way out when they have a known issue with the CCV.
Let us know how you get on.
I've just bought my first shed. 2006 Vectra 1.9CDTi (150 bhp + 6 speed box) SRi. The previous owner * has put on it:
New discs and pads all round
New rear springs
Full service
Removal of troublesome swirl flaps
New exhaust manifold
VXR CD player and satnav
Body is in good shape and it has a full years MOT. 170,000 miles. £550. Insurance and road tax will be dirt cheap.
New discs and pads all round
New rear springs
Full service
Removal of troublesome swirl flaps
New exhaust manifold
VXR CD player and satnav
Body is in good shape and it has a full years MOT. 170,000 miles. £550. Insurance and road tax will be dirt cheap.
- My older son!
mercedeslimos said:
1CD-FTV.
Check your crankcase ventilation system. Known to give trouble and it recirculates liquid oil back into the inlet system which is then burnt, rather than separating it out and the oil flowing back to the sump and the slight oil vapour and gases going back through the turbo, etc.
See a lot of taxis around here with it, and everyone assumes it's the turbo that is on the way out when they have a known issue with the CCV.
Let us know how you get on.
Full disclosure, a lot of that went over my head. Id have to see if theres some sort of guide on YouTube or a photo of what im supposed to be looking at.Check your crankcase ventilation system. Known to give trouble and it recirculates liquid oil back into the inlet system which is then burnt, rather than separating it out and the oil flowing back to the sump and the slight oil vapour and gases going back through the turbo, etc.
See a lot of taxis around here with it, and everyone assumes it's the turbo that is on the way out when they have a known issue with the CCV.
Let us know how you get on.
My plan was to run some cleaner through it and give it an italian tune up, then cross my fingers and hope it passes. I usually change up at 3k rpm so it might have solved it.
If it fails il ask a different garage to check the crankcase ventilation and remot once done.
thanks for your thoughts, learned something new.
Edit:
Watched a youtube about how they work, makes sense. I feel like i could replace it for a new one if i can locate it. Will keep you posted.
PCV explanation link
Edited by CinnamonFan on Friday 16th October 07:26
spreadsheet monkey said:
Recent service and cam belt and water pump changed sounds like good news. I’m not a Volvo expert, but the Geartronic auto is known to be troublesome, so make sure it goes into every gear, with no clunks or strange noises.
Shed Of The Week featured a V70 recently and covered the other minor weak points. Lots of Readers Cars threads on V70s on here - they’re a popular choice.
(https://www.pistonheads.com/news/general/shed-of-the-week--volvo-v70/40363)
Many thanks for the reply.Shed Of The Week featured a V70 recently and covered the other minor weak points. Lots of Readers Cars threads on V70s on here - they’re a popular choice.
(https://www.pistonheads.com/news/general/shed-of-the-week--volvo-v70/40363)
CinnamonFan said:
Full disclosure, a lot of that went over my head. Id have to see if theres some sort of guide on YouTube or a photo of what im supposed to be looking at.
My plan was to run some cleaner through it and give it an italian tune up, then cross my fingers and hope it passes. I usually change up at 3k rpm so it might have solved it.
If it fails il ask a different garage to check the crankcase ventilation and remot once done.
thanks for your thoughts, learned something new.
Edit:
Watched a youtube about how they work, makes sense. I feel like i could replace it for a new one if i can locate it. Will keep you posted.
PCV explanation link
No hassle, I looked after a 2005 model with that engine for an ex's father. It was used by him and his buddy multi-manning as a taxi, and it ran from 140,000 km to 800,000km until the 14-year rule applied to it. It was mega reliable considering it was doing 140,000km per year.My plan was to run some cleaner through it and give it an italian tune up, then cross my fingers and hope it passes. I usually change up at 3k rpm so it might have solved it.
If it fails il ask a different garage to check the crankcase ventilation and remot once done.
thanks for your thoughts, learned something new.
Edit:
Watched a youtube about how they work, makes sense. I feel like i could replace it for a new one if i can locate it. Will keep you posted.
PCV explanation link
Edited by CinnamonFan on Friday 16th October 07:26
I put a gearbox after it lost 5th (2 weeks of driving in 4th!), an engine after the timing belt snapped (water pump shaft seized) and about a million sets of tyres and brake pads. A solid flywheel and clutch went in at about 450,000 on the original. It looked like dogs
t and was as sloppy as anything when it was retired but it was reliable and very rarely broke down. Did about 39mpg for its whole life being dogged to death!mercedeslimos said:
No hassle, I looked after a 2005 model with that engine for an ex's father. It was used by him and his buddy multi-manning as a taxi, and it ran from 140,000 km to 800,000km until the 14-year rule applied to it. It was mega reliable considering it was doing 140,000km per year.
I put a gearbox after it lost 5th (2 weeks of driving in 4th!), an engine after the timing belt snapped (water pump shaft seized) and about a million sets of tyres and brake pads. A solid flywheel and clutch went in at about 450,000 on the original. It looked like dogst and was as sloppy as anything when it was retired but it was reliable and very rarely broke down. Did about 39mpg for its whole life being dogged to death!
I crossed my fingers you were local to me and Id pay you to help me, except your 504 miles away! Mines just reached 300,000 km. Dash suggests I am averaging 52.6 mpg, perhaps I need to drive it a bit harder.I put a gearbox after it lost 5th (2 weeks of driving in 4th!), an engine after the timing belt snapped (water pump shaft seized) and about a million sets of tyres and brake pads. A solid flywheel and clutch went in at about 450,000 on the original. It looked like dogs
t and was as sloppy as anything when it was retired but it was reliable and very rarely broke down. Did about 39mpg for its whole life being dogged to death!Dont suppose you know anything about airlocks in the heating system. My fans very occasionally blow hot air (think 1/10times) some googling suggests an airlock which I cannot clear. Would a coolant/water change resolve this? I def want a heater prior to winter.
Toyota passed its MOT after some Wynns diesel cleaner.
Next up fresh oil and oil, air, fuel and cabin filters. Coolant change which will hopefully make my heater work.
Should see me through another year and on to the 200k club. Im considering washing it too, lets hope it rains and it dissuades me from this idea.
Thanks all for your help! Appreciate it.
Next up fresh oil and oil, air, fuel and cabin filters. Coolant change which will hopefully make my heater work.
Should see me through another year and on to the 200k club. Im considering washing it too, lets hope it rains and it dissuades me from this idea.
Thanks all for your help! Appreciate it.
My battered 2002 Yaris failed its MOT on headlight product (easy DIY fix) horn not working and rear brake imbalance.
The horn issue appears to be wiring related as the fuse/relay clicks and I bought a new horn and it still doesn't work. Looks like a previous owner had a problem with it as I found the wire had been taped around a screw, which was then taped to the horn connector (instead of using a spade connector)
Rear brake imbalance also needs investigating.
Already spent 225 on a new exhaust a couple of months ago so I won't be surprised if total outlay on repairs this year is more than what the car is worth.
Keep eyeing up a new shape 3 series but work are keeping me at home so what's the point if I'm not driving anywhere. Another year of shedding it for me!
The horn issue appears to be wiring related as the fuse/relay clicks and I bought a new horn and it still doesn't work. Looks like a previous owner had a problem with it as I found the wire had been taped around a screw, which was then taped to the horn connector (instead of using a spade connector)
Rear brake imbalance also needs investigating.
Already spent 225 on a new exhaust a couple of months ago so I won't be surprised if total outlay on repairs this year is more than what the car is worth.
Keep eyeing up a new shape 3 series but work are keeping me at home so what's the point if I'm not driving anywhere. Another year of shedding it for me!
CinnamonFan said:
I crossed my fingers you were local to me and Id pay you to help me, except your 504 miles away! Mines just reached 300,000 km. Dash suggests I am averaging 52.6 mpg, perhaps I need to drive it a bit harder.
Don't suppose you know anything about airlocks in the heating system. My fans very occasionally blow hot air (think 1/10times) some googling suggests an airlock which I cannot clear. Would a coolant/water change resolve this? I def want a heater prior to winter.
Can't remember if they have the Japanese-style radiator with filler cap or European-style expansion tank? If the former, there should be a drain valve. Drain the lot and replace it with 33%/66% coolant/water (Euro Car Parts Triple QX VW G12 equivalent concentrate is my fave at about €18 a gallon). Fill to the very top and leave the radiator cap undone. Fill the "expansion bottle", the one that's piped to the rad cap overflow, to about half-full.Switch heaters to hot and fan on low. Run the engine up to temp (probably need to sit on the throttle 2-3000rpm for a while, it's a diesel), once it comes up to temp the level should drop. Fill to the very top, cap on, and rev for a little longer, so that the expansion bottle can overflow/pick up as required. Let it cool down overnight and then check the bottle again, and fill to about half full or the max line.Don't suppose you know anything about airlocks in the heating system. My fans very occasionally blow hot air (think 1/10times) some googling suggests an airlock which I cannot clear. Would a coolant/water change resolve this? I def want a heater prior to winter.
I find myself not local to anyone on this site, maybe a good thing as I find myself the person who looks after most of my mates' machines now after problems with garages!
As we speak there is a 1989 T3 Transporter converted to 1.9TDI sat in my drive for a timing belt and oil change, various oil leaks, and just for the fun, the gear lever broke in two on its way over. Add to this a 2015 Mazda6 with a start/stop fault (and 7 grand's worth of engine work last year), the fun never stops. Suppose I need something to keep me busy while I'm off work!
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