The Joy of Running an Old Shed

[ghost83]

R50 BPS said:

Or because if it's a 2.0 CDTI, the oil pump is giving grief.... in these times, I'd be wary of a cheap car.

Good to know, it’s got a 3 month warranty on it so hopefully any problems will be sorted

[anonymous-user]

ghost83 said:

Good to know, it’s got a 3 month warranty on it so hopefully any problems will be sorted

All cars have there issues you wouldnt buy any if you read everything on the internet. Just enjoy, it sounds like a good motor, they are rated well.

[anonymous-user]

The Spruce Goose said:

ghost83 said:

Good to know, it’s got a 3 month warranty on it so hopefully any problems will be sorted

All cars have there issues you wouldnt buy any if you read everything on the internet. Just enjoy, it sounds like a good motor, they are rated well.

You always have to stick your nose in and make a comment, don't you?

[Davie]

R50 BPS said:

The Spruce Goose said:

ghost83 said:

Good to know, it’s got a 3 month warranty on it so hopefully any problems will be sorted

All cars have there issues you wouldnt buy any if you read everything on the internet. Just enjoy, it sounds like a good motor, they are rated well.

You always have to stick your nose in and make a comment, don't you?

Being fair, it's a valid point.

I'd love to not have a reasonable knowledge of what goes wrong with what cars and just be able to buy what I like with blissful ignorance, but I can't. Doesn't help that most my mates are car nerds / trade related and so any car that's thrown into the pot is met with "Nice but watch out for X, Y and Z" and you're left thinking "Jeez, I best give one of those a miss then!" Ditto the internet, there's more bad stories than good from owners as we tend to voice the negatives more than the positives.

[Mildlyinterestd]

R50 BPS said:

Mine is the facelift, so had an 850 in, a 650 was included by the seller, so after taking the dash to bits and fitting it, thats totally dead, too.

The paintwork is absolutely fine on mine, though I have seen some losing lacquer - what colour is yours?

Mine is the light gold. I think the original owner just parked it where it faced the sun all day on the passenger side.

[Tyre Smoke]

Mine's the same colour (although on the logbook as silver!!) and has lost lacquer around the fuel filler flap and on the roof where there would be rails, except mine has never had them.

[anonymous-user]

Mildlyinterestd said:

R50 BPS said:

Mine is the facelift, so had an 850 in, a 650 was included by the seller, so after taking the dash to bits and fitting it, thats totally dead, too.

The paintwork is absolutely fine on mine, though I have seen some losing lacquer - what colour is yours?

Mine is the light gold. I think the original owner just parked it where it faced the sun all day on the passenger side.
Thats an odd colour to lose lacquer like that! Most commonly seen on red or green cars.

[Pieman68]

Treated the Ibiza to a good wash on Saturday. After washing it ran lumpy and when using the accelerator the revs dropped and it stalled. Then the rev counter and speedo stopped working but it eventually ran ok apart from EML coming on (used my new £20 code reader and got a P0321 which I cleared)

After a while it all sorted itself out and appears to be running spot on now. I'm presuming water ingress into the ECU as a possibility

And it overheated last week - when I checked fluid was way down. I keep topping up and it keeps dropping the level so am guessing I've got a coolant leak somewhere along the way

And fitted a new stereo so I have hands free

It's getting a service next week too and a good once over to see anything that might be needed for MOT (due in December so giving myself some time to address prior to last minute)

[_Yeti]

Seems to be Volvo crazy in this thread at the moment!

My S60 D5 failed the MOT on a balljoint at the front recently. Few youtube videos and a flick through the Haynes. This will be easy! Anyway reader, I can tell you now, it was anything but easy. Nightmare from start to finish and I even threw in the towel and called in a mobile mechanic as it was stranded on my driveway. Even he was having a bit of a mare with it. All sorted now though and MOT re-test in a few days so fingers crossed. The guy took it for a quick spin and commented how amazing the seats were. In reconciliation, I did a rear anti-roll bar link all by myself like a grownup.

Can't wait to start driving it again!

[Agarange]

10 years ago I bought a £500 shed of a bmw e35 530i. It's still a shed but a shed that has cost a fair bit amount of money to going. I don't think I understand this shed thing well.

[anonymous-user]

_Yeti said:

Seems to be Volvo crazy in this thread at the moment!

My S60 D5 failed the MOT on a balljoint at the front recently. Few youtube videos and a flick through the Haynes. This will be easy! Anyway reader, I can tell you now, it was anything but easy. Nightmare from start to finish and I even threw in the towel and called in a mobile mechanic as it was stranded on my driveway. Even he was having a bit of a mare with it. All sorted now though and MOT re-test in a few days so fingers crossed. The guy took it for a quick spin and commented how amazing the seats were. In reconciliation, I did a rear anti-roll bar link all by myself like a grownup.

Can't wait to start driving it again!

Funny you mention that - I've ordered front ARB links for my V70 as I was covinced that is where the noise was coming from - I now think it's rear and the front is a ball ache - sorry - ball joint...

[_Yeti]

R50 BPS said:

Funny you mention that - I've ordered front ARB links for my V70 as I was covinced that is where the noise was coming from - I now think it's rear and the front is a ball ache - sorry - ball joint...

For the love of all things holy and oily. Don't forget to remove the driveshaft from the hub, the CV joint will dislocate if you even breathe near it (ask me how I know). Other than that, have fun and try not to scream too much. We had to remove the hub entirely to seat the new balljoint. The youtube videos show it being far too easy.

[anonymous-user]

I've read most of the posts on this thread. I think we can all agree that sheds will go wrong at some point and will require an outlay. The cost of this will be dependent on make and model, you need to be aware of this with your eyes wide open beforehand. So called prestige brands will obviously be more expensive to maintain, luxo barges may be great to drive and own but there is a penance to pay come repair time.

I've said it many times, the best sheds are mechanically simple n/a petrol engines that are easy to fix and cost buttons to run exiting no but a pretty painless shed ownership experience.

[Davie]

_Yeti said:

For the love of all things holy and oily. Don't forget to remove the driveshaft from the hub, the CV joint will dislocate if you even breathe near it (ask me how I know). Other than that, have fun and try not to scream too much. We had to remove the hub entirely to seat the new balljoint. The youtube videos show it being far too easy.

Ahhh yes, I feel your pain!

They really are a bd to do and even seating the new ballpoint in the hub square can be an arse of a task, depending on brand. Some go in with a firm push, some require a press and seem impossible to get in square.

Then yes, seating the ballpoint in the arm requires about six blokes and brave pills as the arm battles against you and the strut behaves like a drunken wife on a night out, flipping about all over the place before smacking you in the jaw.

As for the inner CV joint... oh yes, made that mistake too and that feeling of utter misery as you realise something feels a bit strange, you pop the boot off and the ball bearings hit the deck. Reassembling them is a black art... requiring the dexterity of a gynecologist and the patience of a saint.

I hate P2 Volvos... ahole things!

[bearman68]

Davie said:

Ahhh yes, I feel your pain!

They really are a bd to do and even seating the new ballpoint in the hub square can be an arse of a task, depending on brand. Some go in with a firm push, some require a press and seem impossible to get in square.

Then yes, seating the ballpoint in the arm requires about six blokes and brave pills as the arm battles against you and the strut behaves like a drunken wife on a night out, flipping about all over the place before smacking you in the jaw.

As for the inner CV joint... oh yes, made that mistake too and that feeling of utter misery as you realise something feels a bit strange, you pop the boot off and the ball bearings hit the deck. Reassembling them is a black art... requiring the dexterity of a gynecologist and the patience of a saint.

I hate P2 Volvos... ahole things!

?? Not quite sure what you're all on about - is this the ball joint that is held in upside down on the strut with 2 big bolts? I know about the CV joint thing, but the ball joint is not that tricky - 30 mins or so max with a lift.

[Daveb257]

Davie said:

_Yeti said:

For the love of all things holy and oily. Don't forget to remove the driveshaft from the hub, the CV joint will dislocate if you even breathe near it (ask me how I know). Other than that, have fun and try not to scream too much. We had to remove the hub entirely to seat the new balljoint. The youtube videos show it being far too easy.

Ahhh yes, I feel your pain!

They really are a bd to do and even seating the new ballpoint in the hub square can be an arse of a task, depending on brand. Some go in with a firm push, some require a press and seem impossible to get in square.

Then yes, seating the ballpoint in the arm requires about six blokes and brave pills as the arm battles against you and the strut behaves like a drunken wife on a night out, flipping about all over the place before smacking you in the jaw.

As for the inner CV joint... oh yes, made that mistake too and that feeling of utter misery as you realise something feels a bit strange, you pop the boot off and the ball bearings hit the deck. Reassembling them is a black art... requiring the dexterity of a gynecologist and the patience of a saint.

I hate P2 Volvos... ahole things!

But a gynaecologist would probably do it via the glovebox or through the radiator grille

[Davie]

bearman68 said:

?? Not quite sure what you're all on about - is this the ball joint that is held in upside down on the strut with 2 big bolts? I know about the CV joint thing, but the ball joint is not that tricky - 30 mins or so max with a lift.

I bow to your superior skills then.

[bearman68]

Davie said:

bearman68 said:

?? Not quite sure what you're all on about - is this the ball joint that is held in upside down on the strut with 2 big bolts? I know about the CV joint thing, but the ball joint is not that tricky - 30 mins or so max with a lift.

I bow to your superior skills then.

Hehe, or the fact that I have a lift? (and a hydraulic ball joint splitter, and an impact gun)?

Or possibly even the fact I've completely misunderstood the problem.

[_Yeti]

I reckon the lift makes all the difference! Even all that suffering was not enough to put me off the glory of the Volvo (unless it fails the MOT again). Though iirc I worked out the S60 D5 would be £44k in today's money when new. Considering their value now, perfect shed material. Guess their ability to throw a massive repair bill keeps the values down?

[anonymous-user]

_Yeti said:

I reckon the lift makes all the difference! Even all that suffering was not enough to put me off the glory of the Volvo (unless it fails the MOT again). Though iirc I worked out the S60 D5 would be £44k in today's money when new. Considering their value now, perfect shed material. Guess their ability to throw a massive repair bill keeps the values down?

Meanwhile.... (and I don't have the slightest clue why I've decided this ) mine can rattle and knock it's arse off until MOT time in January and if it fails, it can be the garages' (and my wallets') problem....