RE: BMW M135i (F20) | PH Used Buying Guide
Discussion
Court_S said:
The M2 is starting to get more and more appealing especially now there are some good non-comp AUC’s for sensible money. The N55 is an attraction because it sounds really good. I’d want the DCT though; I really like that gearbox.
I’m constantly keeping an eye 130’s; prices seem all over the place. The good news is the boss is coming round to the idea. Her current E87 is a good little car (better steering feel than my M140i) but it’s slow and I don’t think it’ll cost much more to run a 130.
For sure, the M2’s ride though isn’t great on the roads I enjoy, so would have to change the dampers no doubt. I’m constantly keeping an eye 130’s; prices seem all over the place. The good news is the boss is coming round to the idea. Her current E87 is a good little car (better steering feel than my M140i) but it’s slow and I don’t think it’ll cost much more to run a 130.
I bought a manual LCI model just before Christmas so early days yet.
I did get one with adaptive suspension and feel in comfort it's great at hiding the state of UK roads, huuuuge improvement on the ride quality against the E82. I have heard it can be a different story on the standard set up though.
The engine really is the USP, had a few 2nd/3rd gear pulls against my friends M4 and it's level pegging up to 80/90.
Not been able to have fun round any twistys yet due to winter weather but look forward to the summertime - not expecting it to handle like my old E46 M3 but should still give me a cheeky grin!
I did get one with adaptive suspension and feel in comfort it's great at hiding the state of UK roads, huuuuge improvement on the ride quality against the E82. I have heard it can be a different story on the standard set up though.
The engine really is the USP, had a few 2nd/3rd gear pulls against my friends M4 and it's level pegging up to 80/90.
Not been able to have fun round any twistys yet due to winter weather but look forward to the summertime - not expecting it to handle like my old E46 M3 but should still give me a cheeky grin!
Although very few drivers are likely to come across the issue I feel I have a duty of care to point out that the car also has a fatal stability floor meaning that above 1.4 leptons a side wind can steer the nose of the car. This makes the car feel extremely unstable and can as it did on two separate occasions initiate a slide at speeds I have never experienced a slide in any other vehicle.
I've since discussed this with an expert in vehicle dynamics and based on my description he felt the most likely cause is the centre of pressure falling too far toward the front of the car.
This instability only seems to occur at very high speed but it is an issue with the car drivers should be aware of before doing fast track days, driving on the autobahn or leaving late for the school play
I've since discussed this with an expert in vehicle dynamics and based on my description he felt the most likely cause is the centre of pressure falling too far toward the front of the car.
This instability only seems to occur at very high speed but it is an issue with the car drivers should be aware of before doing fast track days, driving on the autobahn or leaving late for the school play
I've got no experience with the m-lites but I do like the look of them. I don't think they would be for me due to the complains about body control which I hate in anything hot, really ruins the experience for me. I loved my Civic type R, Fiesta ST and R56 Cooper S for their lack of roll despite them all being panned for being too stiff.
I must say I really enjoyed this article, it was really informative.
I must say I really enjoyed this article, it was really informative.
Pretty much echo what other owners have said.
Enjoy it on occasion and it does what I want it to. I replaced my 275 Cup-S Megane to make the commute more relaxing, which it does well.
Seems like I lucked out a bit as my 2013 (Nov) car has Bluetooth, Launch Control and a bunch of other stuff that came in 2014
Do like the gearbox in most situations, adaptive suspensions certainly makes a difference. The Harmon Kardon is really great in my opinion, but I lived with a Mk3 Megane stereo for 3 years so my expectations are low!
Wobbly rear end is a shame, but I didn't buy it because of it's on the limit dynamics.
Was tempted to do loads of mods, but might as well buy an M3 so I probably won't bother.
Enjoy it on occasion and it does what I want it to. I replaced my 275 Cup-S Megane to make the commute more relaxing, which it does well.
Seems like I lucked out a bit as my 2013 (Nov) car has Bluetooth, Launch Control and a bunch of other stuff that came in 2014
Do like the gearbox in most situations, adaptive suspensions certainly makes a difference. The Harmon Kardon is really great in my opinion, but I lived with a Mk3 Megane stereo for 3 years so my expectations are low!
Wobbly rear end is a shame, but I didn't buy it because of it's on the limit dynamics.
Was tempted to do loads of mods, but might as well buy an M3 so I probably won't bother.
There are several things which should be noted or ammended on the buyers guide that I've found over 18 months and 35k of ownership.
I often wonder who writes some of these "buyers guides" as they don't seem to have accurate information!
- The tyre pressure sensors are pretty accurate (within 1.5psi of a proper tyre pressure gauge)
- don't wait for the idrive to tell you to top up oil - that's way too low.
- under hard braking you can lose oil pressure (35psi is hot idle and I've seen 25psi in emergency braking situations) and having a lower oil level does not help the issue. No reason to let it go that low in any event. Very poor ownership advice.
- speaking of oil the car runs at around 115c oil temperature on a cruise and switching to a 5w40 or a 0w40 does help. Xw30 is so thin at these temperatures m I use millers nanodrive 5w40 csf nt+.
- track use the factory oil cooler will be overwhelmed very quickly within 2 or 3 laps the oil temperature will be at nearly 140c.
You can buy a drop in oil cooler upgrade from CSF (CSF europe used my car to develop one in the UK).
- switch to 10k maximum oil change intervals on anything other than cars used to cruise on the motorway.
- birds suspension and remaps are ridiculously priced and not special and no better than any other tuner for 1/8th of the price . You would be much better self tuning by purchasing a mhd wireless dongle for around 80 quid (cables are available for less) .
Flasher module is 200 quid and map packs are 90 quid. (stage 1 for stock cars, stage 2 for cars with intercooler and stage 2+ for cars with intercooler and decat or sports down pipe). Optional monitor module is 80 quid. To see everything from oil temperature and pressure to individual cylinder timing , fuel pressure, inlet temps etc.
- For suspension you can buy H&R Monotube or Bilstein b14 coilovers and have money left over for camber adjustable top mounts to save on outer tyre wear.
- common failure part is the OEM charge pipe that goes into the inlet, the plastic part snaps. You should replace with a better one. I have a forge one but cheaper ones are available on Ebay.
- not heard any owners reporting oil use issues , or myself , and i use mine harder than most.
- no need to go for full forged wheels. Also the oem 436s are not that strong and can buckle.
- the zf8 speed is great but if you want it to be better and even more in tune with what you want it to do then XHP offer software for it in a variety of stages, 1 to 4. I have stage 3 and it's brilliant.
- the zf8 speed should be serviced every 50-60k. The parts cost around 280 for a new plastic oil pan and the zf fluid. It takes approx 2 to 3 hours to do.
- m4 pads are trash on track. I use pagid rs29 front (£330l and ds2500 rear (£150). Last very well and perform great on track. However the dust especially from the rs29 is heavy and they can make some noise. However i have fitted mtec high carbon discs now on my 2nd set of rs29 and they are much quieter.
- you can buy inserts for the rear subframe and diff mount to help make it feel more stable on the back end. I haven't had these fitted yet but I'm slowly collecting parts for more bushes.
That's it for now..
Edit :
- sports steering can have a fault causing a knock from behind your accelerator pedal if you turn wheel stationary or when going over minor bumps.
Bmw used to replace the racks under warranty but now they change effectively a large screw on the steering rack. The part is around 200 quid and a couple hours labour at worst.
I often wonder who writes some of these "buyers guides" as they don't seem to have accurate information!
- The tyre pressure sensors are pretty accurate (within 1.5psi of a proper tyre pressure gauge)
- don't wait for the idrive to tell you to top up oil - that's way too low.
- under hard braking you can lose oil pressure (35psi is hot idle and I've seen 25psi in emergency braking situations) and having a lower oil level does not help the issue. No reason to let it go that low in any event. Very poor ownership advice.
- speaking of oil the car runs at around 115c oil temperature on a cruise and switching to a 5w40 or a 0w40 does help. Xw30 is so thin at these temperatures m I use millers nanodrive 5w40 csf nt+.
- track use the factory oil cooler will be overwhelmed very quickly within 2 or 3 laps the oil temperature will be at nearly 140c.
You can buy a drop in oil cooler upgrade from CSF (CSF europe used my car to develop one in the UK).
- switch to 10k maximum oil change intervals on anything other than cars used to cruise on the motorway.
- birds suspension and remaps are ridiculously priced and not special and no better than any other tuner for 1/8th of the price . You would be much better self tuning by purchasing a mhd wireless dongle for around 80 quid (cables are available for less) .
Flasher module is 200 quid and map packs are 90 quid. (stage 1 for stock cars, stage 2 for cars with intercooler and stage 2+ for cars with intercooler and decat or sports down pipe). Optional monitor module is 80 quid. To see everything from oil temperature and pressure to individual cylinder timing , fuel pressure, inlet temps etc.
- For suspension you can buy H&R Monotube or Bilstein b14 coilovers and have money left over for camber adjustable top mounts to save on outer tyre wear.
- common failure part is the OEM charge pipe that goes into the inlet, the plastic part snaps. You should replace with a better one. I have a forge one but cheaper ones are available on Ebay.
- not heard any owners reporting oil use issues , or myself , and i use mine harder than most.
- no need to go for full forged wheels. Also the oem 436s are not that strong and can buckle.
- the zf8 speed is great but if you want it to be better and even more in tune with what you want it to do then XHP offer software for it in a variety of stages, 1 to 4. I have stage 3 and it's brilliant.
- the zf8 speed should be serviced every 50-60k. The parts cost around 280 for a new plastic oil pan and the zf fluid. It takes approx 2 to 3 hours to do.
- m4 pads are trash on track. I use pagid rs29 front (£330l and ds2500 rear (£150). Last very well and perform great on track. However the dust especially from the rs29 is heavy and they can make some noise. However i have fitted mtec high carbon discs now on my 2nd set of rs29 and they are much quieter.
- you can buy inserts for the rear subframe and diff mount to help make it feel more stable on the back end. I haven't had these fitted yet but I'm slowly collecting parts for more bushes.
That's it for now..
Edit :
- sports steering can have a fault causing a knock from behind your accelerator pedal if you turn wheel stationary or when going over minor bumps.
Bmw used to replace the racks under warranty but now they change effectively a large screw on the steering rack. The part is around 200 quid and a couple hours labour at worst.
Edited by xjay1337 on Tuesday 28th January 21:31
xjay,
I agree some guides may need some extra information but they have generally been found to be very useful to most owners, myself included. Some of your comments are nonsense. I am on my third M-Lite, I fell in love with my first then in my mind upgraded and other than tyres on all three I haven’t changed the set up and more than happy. I came from a Renault Sport Clio 200 with cup chassis and for real life it is much better. I would love to put an LSD on my current one but reality means I don’t really need one.
I agree some guides may need some extra information but they have generally been found to be very useful to most owners, myself included. Some of your comments are nonsense. I am on my third M-Lite, I fell in love with my first then in my mind upgraded and other than tyres on all three I haven’t changed the set up and more than happy. I came from a Renault Sport Clio 200 with cup chassis and for real life it is much better. I would love to put an LSD on my current one but reality means I don’t really need one.
nick30 said:
xjay,
I agree some guides may need some extra information but they have generally been found to be very useful to most owners, myself included. Some of your comments are nonsense. I .
Which parts. I agree some guides may need some extra information but they have generally been found to be very useful to most owners, myself included. Some of your comments are nonsense. I .
As they are all pretty accurate and first hand experience from someone who has done 13 trackdays in the car.
Be happy to hear your opinion :-)
Edited by xjay1337 on Tuesday 28th January 21:09
stugolf said:
I had one for 18 months, well a 235 so almost the same thing
I liked it, drivetrain was excellent, and the 8 speed was very quick for an auto box, easy to live with, you not easy to drive fast, I still never felt as if I'd mastered how to drive it, mainly due to brown trouser moments, such as tricky car to drive fast ruined the experience a little
Here’s the manual box version, tested in wet conditions I liked it, drivetrain was excellent, and the 8 speed was very quick for an auto box, easy to live with, you not easy to drive fast, I still never felt as if I'd mastered how to drive it, mainly due to brown trouser moments, such as tricky car to drive fast ruined the experience a little
Never realised the slushbox was such a pricey option new - over £1800 extra!
xjay1337 said:
- under hard braking you can lose oil pressure (35psi is hot idle and I've seen 25psi in emergency braking situations)
- speaking of oil the car runs at around 115c oil temperature on a cruise and switching to a 5w40 or a 0w40 does help. Xw30 is so thin at these temperatures m I use millers nanodrive 5w40 csf nt+.
- track use the factory oil cooler will be overwhelmed very quickly within 2 or 3 laps the oil temperature will be at nearly 140c.
A bit sharp in the delivery but this may be 5he most informative post I've ever seen on a thread. Thank you.- speaking of oil the car runs at around 115c oil temperature on a cruise and switching to a 5w40 or a 0w40 does help. Xw30 is so thin at these temperatures m I use millers nanodrive 5w40 csf nt+.
- track use the factory oil cooler will be overwhelmed very quickly within 2 or 3 laps the oil temperature will be at nearly 140c.
nick30 said:
s m,
If you ever try the auto in them you can hardly call it a slushbox. ZF is rapid, I loved my manuals but much prefer the auto, not just for being lazy but if you’re on it then holding the steering wheel with both hands shifting gears is a good feeling.
I’d agree with that. For a torque converter it’s really rather good.If you ever try the auto in them you can hardly call it a slushbox. ZF is rapid, I loved my manuals but much prefer the auto, not just for being lazy but if you’re on it then holding the steering wheel with both hands shifting gears is a good feeling.
nick30 said:
s m,
If you ever try the auto in them you can hardly call it a slushbox. ZF is rapid, I loved my manuals but much prefer the auto, not just for being lazy but if you’re on it then holding the steering wheel with both hands shifting gears is a good feeling.
Just not my thing personally If you ever try the auto in them you can hardly call it a slushbox. ZF is rapid, I loved my manuals but much prefer the auto, not just for being lazy but if you’re on it then holding the steering wheel with both hands shifting gears is a good feeling.
Prefer the oldskool stick shift but to each their own as they say
Was just surprised how much extra it was above the manual box
I had a 2 door LCI m135i for 6 months. Best thing I could find on paper for a mix of price, fuel, comfort and speed - I was hoping for a good balance between a sensible car and an m3.
Unfortunately i found it bland - not special enough to warrant the cost. Sold it and bought a 330d e91. Enough torque to be quick, used less fuel, was as comfortable and felt better built.
For me, i’d prefer to have my old e90 M3 and pay the extra in fuel. I’d still have the m3 today if my commute wasn’t 60 miles. Outstanding car.
Unfortunately i found it bland - not special enough to warrant the cost. Sold it and bought a 330d e91. Enough torque to be quick, used less fuel, was as comfortable and felt better built.
For me, i’d prefer to have my old e90 M3 and pay the extra in fuel. I’d still have the m3 today if my commute wasn’t 60 miles. Outstanding car.
m20b25 said:
I had a 2 door LCI m135i for 6 months. Best thing I could find on paper for a mix of price, fuel, comfort and speed - I was hoping for a good balance between a sensible car and an m3.
Unfortunately i found it bland - not special enough to warrant the cost. Sold it and bought a 330d e91. Enough torque to be quick, used less fuel, was as comfortable and felt better built.
For me, i’d prefer to have my old e90 M3 and pay the extra in fuel. I’d still have the m3 today if my commute wasn’t 60 miles. Outstanding car.
The build quality between my F20 and E90 feels pretty similar; I like stuff like the knee pad in the F20 that the E90 didn’t have and the ZF8 is loads better than the old ZF6.Unfortunately i found it bland - not special enough to warrant the cost. Sold it and bought a 330d e91. Enough torque to be quick, used less fuel, was as comfortable and felt better built.
For me, i’d prefer to have my old e90 M3 and pay the extra in fuel. I’d still have the m3 today if my commute wasn’t 60 miles. Outstanding car.
The E90 was my ideal choice, but I decided that the running costs worked get boring over 15k per year. I commute to the office three days a week which is a 60 mile round trip. The 140i is probably better at that stuff. Factor in the extra VED, insurance and servicing costs and it was a no brainier but that doesn’t stop me lusting after a M3 when I see a nice o e.
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