RE: Rustproofing a W124 Mercedes | PH Fleet

[ZX10R NIN]

That looks like a good product & a reasonably priced service, I can see them getting a lot busier.

[drgoatboy]

It doesn't say in the article (does it?) whether the 2 rust holes were repaired?
Were they?

ETA: ah, yes, well, it appears I don't read so well

Edited by drgoatboy on Monday 3rd February 14:34

[LexiconUK]

drgoatboy said:

It doesn't say in the article (does it?) whether the 2 rust holes were repaired?
Were they?

article said:

Both holes were then professionally patched by welderman Dave.

Edited by LexiconUK on Monday 3rd February 12:57

[munk]

fistofsteel said:

Is this ever appropriate for newer cars, ie those not yet visually harbouring the worm? One assumes that any manufacturer warranty would be troubled by the process?

+1.

[V8 FOU]

Dinitrol products are great. I have used them for many years to great effect.
Not wishing to appear churlish, if the charge is £690 for three days work, how do they make a profit? The wages at roughly £200 and materials......
If they are booked for six months, I would guess the prices are too cheap.
Really sorry, guys. I have no intention of appearing rude, but I do a lot of business consultancy and often come accross folk who are very busy making very little money.

I really hope you prosper and that I am wrong!!

[Xenocide]

John Locke said:

Dinitrol is a well known product and the process does look very interesting and thorough, but the following two statements copy / pasted from the article make no sense:

"The company has only been going for just over a year, "

" Garry, SWRP’s rustmeister-general, for the first stage of the process – cleaning. He joined the firm just under three years ago"

Garry has been doing it for years under our sister company Broad Lane Land Rovers. SWRP is newly incorporated but has been running as a trading name for years. A bit confusing I agree.

fistofsteel said:

Xenocide said:

I own South West Rust Proofing.

If you have any questions or comments please let me know.

You can find us online at http://www.southwestrustproofing.co.uk/
Or Facebook at
http://facebook.com/southwestrustproofing

Is this ever appropriate for newer cars, ie those not yet visually harbouring the worm? One assumes that any manufacturer warranty would be troubled by the process?

The earlier it's on the better really. If we can protect it before any rust starts to form then it's win win. We've treated a brand new (< 3000 miles) Golf R and we do many japanese imports which are pristine underneath so appear new. You want the barrier between the road salt and the base metal ideally.

We've not had any issues with manufacturer warrenties so far. Any parts which could be damaged in any way are masked off.

V8 FOU said:

Dinitrol products are great. I have used them for many years to great effect.
Not wishing to appear churlish, if the charge is £690 for three days work, how do they make a profit? The wages at roughly £200 and materials......
If they are booked for six months, I would guess the prices are too cheap.
Really sorry, guys. I have no intention of appearing rude, but I do a lot of business consultancy and often come accross folk who are very busy making very little money.

I really hope you prosper and that I am wrong!!

We need the vehicle 3 days to allow time for the water to be adequately dried and the rust converter to fully cure before the top coats are applied. Whilst this takes time it's not on a ramp the whole time. There's probably a days worth of actual work for each vehicle depending on size and condition but it's split over a few.

Thank you very much for your thoughts.

[V8 FOU]

Xenocide said:

We need the vehicle 3 days to allow time for the water to be adequately dried and the rust converter to fully cure before the top coats are applied. Whilst this takes time it's not on a ramp the whole time. There's probably a days worth of actual work for each vehicle depending on size and condition but it's split over a few.

Thank you very much for your thoughts.

Ah, that explains it! Thank you for accepting what I was thinking. The very best to you!

[BackOut46]

Dammit! Got rid of a near-perfect ‘06 Subaru Outback 3 litre last year, time and money spent on thorough maintenance over the past eight years, sold it for a song. If I’d known that its underpinnings could be properly preserved for this sort of money I would have kept it....

[A1VDY]

Dinitrol has been around for years and the treatment from new used to be to also apply it under the bonnet which was never very pretty.
Years ago I bought an old allegro (74 N reg) as a work commuter and had been dinitrol'd from new. The car, everywhere was totally rust free in every nook and cranny.
Good stuff.

[A1VDY]

munk said:

fistofsteel said:

Is this ever appropriate for newer cars, ie those not yet visually harbouring the worm? One assumes that any manufacturer warranty would be troubled by the process?

+1.

It could only enhance any perforation warranty.

[Xenocide]

I've just edited my first post with an example of the images that you get when you get your treatment with us.

[sparks_190e]

I had my 190e rust proofed for circa £500 last year, so I can be confident in using it all year round. It really does look like new underneath.

[phil_cardiff]

Watching with interest. I can obviously see how this helps prevent rust on the underside but what about the body itself?

My Korean PoS is rusting around the tailgate and the tops of the doors. I've no interest in preserving its life but was wondering for future cars.

[Xenocide]

phil_cardiff said:

Watching with interest. I can obviously see how this helps prevent rust on the underside but what about the body itself?

My Korean PoS is rusting around the tailgate and the tops of the doors. I've no interest in preserving its life but was wondering for future cars.

We can spray a cavity wax inside things like the boot and doors which will help around areas where the skin attaches to the frame. We can't really get to most places on the body of a modern car. Most of the time we see corrosion on the body is from repairs, poor design or poor materials. Modern cars are pretty good in this regard really.

I've got a '08 plate e61 535 and that's spotless everywhere that I can find. It's not even been treated. We've done some 2 year old defenders (at the time) which were showing heavy signs of surface corrosion and the paint on the cross member at the back was mostly missing.

New Toyota Hilux's are already showing signs of corrosion on the welds of the chassis.

[Blackpuddin]

I've heard that Mitsu L200s are really bad for rust.

[sparks_190e]

phil_cardiff said:

Watching with interest. I can obviously see how this helps prevent rust on the underside but what about the body itself?

My Korean PoS is rusting around the tailgate and the tops of the doors. I've no interest in preserving its life but was wondering for future cars.

True enough, I just wash and wax mine regularly and keep the inside of the arches free of debris.

[phil_cardiff]

Xenocide said:

phil_cardiff said:

Watching with interest. I can obviously see how this helps prevent rust on the underside but what about the body itself?

My Korean PoS is rusting around the tailgate and the tops of the doors. I've no interest in preserving its life but was wondering for future cars.

We can spray a cavity wax inside things like the boot and doors which will help around areas where the skin attaches to the frame. We can't really get to most places on the body of a modern car. Most of the time we see corrosion on the body is from repairs, poor design or poor materials. Modern cars are pretty good in this regard really.

I've got a '08 plate e61 535 and that's spotless everywhere that I can find. It's not even been treated. We've done some 2 year old defenders (at the time) which were showing heavy signs of surface corrosion and the paint on the cross member at the back was mostly missing.

New Toyota Hilux's are already showing signs of corrosion on the welds of the chassis.

Thanks for replying. I think it's a combination of poor Korean quality and living 400m from the sea

[phil_cardiff]

Just to add that I'm strongly favouring a modern classic as my next car and if I do you guys will be getting a call as the price seems great for what you get.

[sparks_190e]

phil_cardiff said:

Just to add that I'm strongly favouring a modern classic as my next car and if I do you guys will be getting a call as the price seems great for what you get.

If I hadn't had mine done already I'd be in touch too.

That being said, how often should this treatment be carried out, on the assumption the car is used all year round, in all weather conditions?

[Xenocide]

sparks_190e said:

If I hadn't had mine done already I'd be in touch too.

That being said, how often should this treatment be carried out, on the assumption the car is used all year round, in all weather conditions?

That's a good question and one that doesn't really have an straight forward answer. It depends on a few factors, mainly how the vehicle is used and how bad the corrosion was when it was treated. A heavily off roaded vehicle will have some heavy scarring on the top coat most of the time.

We obviously do all we can to get rid of all the rot when it's initially treated but there's inevitably areas which you can't get to due to access or the design of the vehicle. These areas may need to be looked at again at a later date.

We recommend yearly check ups after treatment. The first one is complementary and includes a steam clean of the underside of the vehicle and a full inspection. Any areas which have been missed or damaged are topped up or stripped and retreated depending on severity. After that it's just a small charge for any product that's used and time to steam clean.