The Joy of Running an Old Shed (Vol 2)
Discussion
mattman said:
Increased the value of the ShedX5 today as a bona-fide F1 mechanic replaced the rocker cover gasket. Of course, there was one of the bolts which was a real bugger to get too, needed a deep socket, but with that on, not quite enough room for the ratchet - got there in the end and no more leaks which is good 
We've got an FI Autocentres too..... https://www.f1autocentres.co.uk/
James_N said:
The one thing i love about running sheds, is the parts prices.
I know i'll need some front discs in the near future so I thought i'd have a look.
£3.39 each for PAGID ones! ordered two obviously!
Picked up an air filter the other day for 92p as well!
The missus k12 failed It's mot the other day on 1 mechanical fault, offside ball joint. Had an advisory for the nearside so had them both done leaving 1 advisory of a tyre now left. The other 3 fails were 2 bulbs and wipers which were about £22 from halfords. £22 seems like mega money compared to your spending... am I doing this right? I know i'll need some front discs in the near future so I thought i'd have a look.
£3.39 each for PAGID ones! ordered two obviously!
Picked up an air filter the other day for 92p as well!
QBee said:
i would never take a car back to that bunch of cowboys ever again - took them 5 attempts to try and get the wheel alignment correct on my Boxster before i gave up and took it elsewhere
mattman said:
i would never take a car back to that bunch of cowboys ever again - took them 5 attempts to try and get the wheel alignment correct on my Boxster before i gave up and took it elsewhere
Reminds me of years ago when my usual place were too busy to do it so I took the car to another well known high street chain. I asked if they had the 4 wheel laser alignment and the guy replied "Sir, we have been doing wheel alignment for over 30 years". My gut feel said don't trust them, but I was impatient so let them do it.After they were done I left, drove down the dual carriageway and on a long sweeping bend it felt like I had hit a massive puddle as the ABS kicked in. I took it straight back, explained the issue and they had another go. The guy doing it ended up driving it backwards and forwards in the car park to check it was straight.......
By this point I just wanted out of there so I took the car and vowed never to go back to that bunch of idiots for anything ever again.
There is only one place I trust now and I know they have the correct 4 wheel laser alignment setup.
For whoever was asking, callipers come as callipers and no more. Slider pins, carriers and the like are all extra.
Right, let's get something out of the way. Euro car parts are a bunch of cowboys who know nothing about parts, cars, or probably Euro either. They are a bunch of cheap charlatans who have taken over the world based on buying price only. Now I know this is important, but the cheapest job is usually the one you don't have to touch again, and for that reason ECP should be strung up by their goolies and left to rot. And Pagid brake pads are made to an especially cheap standard by ECP.
Given the time required to make pads fit correctly and not stick in the carriers, the cheapest brakes are actually Allied Nippon, that are excellent, and actually fit.
Apec make good callipers, they fit well and work well.
Bosch filters are the work of the devil, and the ideal are made by Mahle, though ADL and Wix are acceptable alternatives.
Napa rotating parts are rubbish, but suspension is OK, except for the top joints that should be KYB or maybe Febi. Napa suspension is really cheap, so fill yer boots. Delphi make excellent suspension parts as well, and much is often only a tiny bit more expensive than the cheapest stuff.
Gates cam belts have gone rubbish - there bearings have gone shockingly bad. I use Dayco exclusively now - cheaper and better. The belts are very very tough.
Rotating electrics used to be done by autoelec, but I don't know if they are still in business anymore.
Clutches should be Valeo or ADL, and only under the most extreme circumstances would I use LUK, that have also fallen off the cliff quality wise. Wheel bearings seem to be fine whichever brand you use, so I tend to use the cheapest.
I also have decent suppliers for refurb gearboxes if anyone is interested?
Ohh, I know someone will be upset that I think Bosch filters are rubbish. Their wiper blades are OK (Though Valeo are about as good at half the price).
you all know enough to open a garage now.
Right, let's get something out of the way. Euro car parts are a bunch of cowboys who know nothing about parts, cars, or probably Euro either. They are a bunch of cheap charlatans who have taken over the world based on buying price only. Now I know this is important, but the cheapest job is usually the one you don't have to touch again, and for that reason ECP should be strung up by their goolies and left to rot. And Pagid brake pads are made to an especially cheap standard by ECP.
Given the time required to make pads fit correctly and not stick in the carriers, the cheapest brakes are actually Allied Nippon, that are excellent, and actually fit.
Apec make good callipers, they fit well and work well.
Bosch filters are the work of the devil, and the ideal are made by Mahle, though ADL and Wix are acceptable alternatives.
Napa rotating parts are rubbish, but suspension is OK, except for the top joints that should be KYB or maybe Febi. Napa suspension is really cheap, so fill yer boots. Delphi make excellent suspension parts as well, and much is often only a tiny bit more expensive than the cheapest stuff.
Gates cam belts have gone rubbish - there bearings have gone shockingly bad. I use Dayco exclusively now - cheaper and better. The belts are very very tough.
Rotating electrics used to be done by autoelec, but I don't know if they are still in business anymore.
Clutches should be Valeo or ADL, and only under the most extreme circumstances would I use LUK, that have also fallen off the cliff quality wise. Wheel bearings seem to be fine whichever brand you use, so I tend to use the cheapest.
I also have decent suppliers for refurb gearboxes if anyone is interested?
Ohh, I know someone will be upset that I think Bosch filters are rubbish. Their wiper blades are OK (Though Valeo are about as good at half the price).
you all know enough to open a garage now. egor110 said:
What about exhausts ?
Who's crap who's average who's good?
Well Euroflo have a pretty poor rep in the trade, but actually, I think they fit pretty well.Who's crap who's average who's good?
Don't do what I have just done. One of my little C1's failed it's MOT on emissions. So I ordered a cheap cat from Ebay.
After fitting the new cat, the emissions ae worse than when I started.
Driving about in the inclement weather today it hit home to me that I have the worst shed in the world for snow. The little 206 peugeot used to plow through the stuff without an issue, front wheel drive, skinny tyres and a manual gearbox. This in comparison is like a beached whale, auto gearbox, fat tyres and rear wheel drive, losing grip at every feather of the throttle.
I've always coped pretty well in the snow but if it carries on tomorrow I'd rather walk than go through that again, utter garbage.
I've always coped pretty well in the snow but if it carries on tomorrow I'd rather walk than go through that again, utter garbage.
Chaps. Evoque update. Not a shed, but advice greatly needed and appreciated!
The dealer I bought it from has offered to sort it out for me and also reckons it'll be the EGR valve thats gone pop.
His way is to blank it off and map it out - also suggested this with the DPF too.
Run for the hills, or jump at the chance of repair?
The dealer I bought it from has offered to sort it out for me and also reckons it'll be the EGR valve thats gone pop.
His way is to blank it off and map it out - also suggested this with the DPF too.
Run for the hills, or jump at the chance of repair?
bearman68 said:
For whoever was asking, callipers come as callipers and no more. Slider pins, carriers and the like are all extra.
Right, let's get something out of the way. Euro car parts are a bunch of cowboys who know nothing about parts, cars, or probably Euro either. They are a bunch of cheap charlatans who have taken over the world based on buying price only. Now I know this is important, but the cheapest job is usually the one you don't have to touch again, and for that reason ECP should be strung up by their goolies and left to rot. And Pagid brake pads are made to an especially cheap standard by ECP.
Given the time required to make pads fit correctly and not stick in the carriers, the cheapest brakes are actually Allied Nippon, that are excellent, and actually fit.
Apec make good callipers, they fit well and work well.
Bosch filters are the work of the devil, and the ideal are made by Mahle, though ADL and Wix are acceptable alternatives.
Napa rotating parts are rubbish, but suspension is OK, except for the top joints that should be KYB or maybe Febi. Napa suspension is really cheap, so fill yer boots. Delphi make excellent suspension parts as well, and much is often only a tiny bit more expensive than the cheapest stuff.
Gates cam belts have gone rubbish - there bearings have gone shockingly bad. I use Dayco exclusively now - cheaper and better. The belts are very very tough.
Rotating electrics used to be done by autoelec, but I don't know if they are still in business anymore.
Clutches should be Valeo or ADL, and only under the most extreme circumstances would I use LUK, that have also fallen off the cliff quality wise. Wheel bearings seem to be fine whichever brand you use, so I tend to use the cheapest.
I also have decent suppliers for refurb gearboxes if anyone is interested?
Ohh, I know someone will be upset that I think Bosch filters are rubbish. Their wiper blades are OK (Though Valeo are about as good at half the price).
you all know enough to open a garage now.
That's gold, thanks bearman for that Right, let's get something out of the way. Euro car parts are a bunch of cowboys who know nothing about parts, cars, or probably Euro either. They are a bunch of cheap charlatans who have taken over the world based on buying price only. Now I know this is important, but the cheapest job is usually the one you don't have to touch again, and for that reason ECP should be strung up by their goolies and left to rot. And Pagid brake pads are made to an especially cheap standard by ECP.
Given the time required to make pads fit correctly and not stick in the carriers, the cheapest brakes are actually Allied Nippon, that are excellent, and actually fit.
Apec make good callipers, they fit well and work well.
Bosch filters are the work of the devil, and the ideal are made by Mahle, though ADL and Wix are acceptable alternatives.
Napa rotating parts are rubbish, but suspension is OK, except for the top joints that should be KYB or maybe Febi. Napa suspension is really cheap, so fill yer boots. Delphi make excellent suspension parts as well, and much is often only a tiny bit more expensive than the cheapest stuff.
Gates cam belts have gone rubbish - there bearings have gone shockingly bad. I use Dayco exclusively now - cheaper and better. The belts are very very tough.
Rotating electrics used to be done by autoelec, but I don't know if they are still in business anymore.
Clutches should be Valeo or ADL, and only under the most extreme circumstances would I use LUK, that have also fallen off the cliff quality wise. Wheel bearings seem to be fine whichever brand you use, so I tend to use the cheapest.
I also have decent suppliers for refurb gearboxes if anyone is interested?
Ohh, I know someone will be upset that I think Bosch filters are rubbish. Their wiper blades are OK (Though Valeo are about as good at half the price).
you all know enough to open a garage now. 
Just went through the Mann way for filters (air and cabin), after hesitating with...Mahle!
As opposite to few posts earlier, I took expensive "pollen active allergen thingy thingy" as a newborn will soon enjoy the shed too! £38 with the air one... Dear, and might be only marketing and psychologic, but as I spanner myself, then let's spend a bit of the savings and tell the OH that I care not only about the car, but also them
bearman68 said:
Napa rotating parts are rubbish, but suspension is OK, except for the top joints that should be KYB or maybe Febi. Napa suspension is really cheap, so fill yer boots.
Your experience of fitting a wide range of parts to old sheds and then being around to see how they perform and last is really useful- hopefully I can pick your brain regarding NAPA suspension parts.As you say, they are indeed cheap. My shed had a broken rear spring and a pair of NAPA springs delivered was something like £38 and they have been fine.
My dampers do not leak, but the car is pretty floaty and pitches a lot under braking, and the rear ones felt poor when tested by hand during the rear spring replacement.
Do you have any experience of NAPA shock absorbers in particular? Obviously things like Bilstein would be preferred but the NAPA ones are incredibly inexpensive to the point where they could be replaced several times. I would rather do it once, and as the goal is to restore reasonable ride and handling rather than "I have failed my MOT" I'm trying to establish whether NAPA dampers would be a false economy, a pair of rears is £43!
Do they ride and handle well for what they are?
Edit: Or indeed, any of the other cheap brands really, RIDEX are autodoc's own brand and are similar money, likewise KRAFT automotive are £18ish a rear corner and so on.
I'll spend the money on Bilstein B4s or KYBs if they are all garbage but it's for the daily hack to replace tired 131k mile 19yo ones rather than anything special.
Edited by RetroPug on Friday 10th March 12:44
Have been quite shocked at how little it has cost to keep the Civic going. Other than a fairly big bill early on fixing a couple of issues and giving it a service, it's cost a grand total of:
350 a year for insurance
20 a month for tax
30 a month
30 for some wiper blades (Bosch, naturally)
10 for some screenwash
Fairly impressive considering my BMW can beat that just to get through an MOT...although in fairness to the 1er it passed first time, the only advisory was a "Minor Oil Leak". A couple of gaskets, a sump and plenty of labour later, it no longer leaks oil.
Anyway, considering the above costs I decided to splash some cash on the Civic - I spent the grand total of 12 pounds on an FM Transmitter from Halfords. Despite the fact the instruction manual bears no resemblance whatsoever to the actual set up procedure, after some random pushing of buttons it's up and running and is doing a job.
Would prefer a BT Dongle but the lack of AUX in scuppers that somewhat, and after 15 months I'm finally bored of my CD Collection
350 a year for insurance
20 a month for tax
30 a month
30 for some wiper blades (Bosch, naturally)
10 for some screenwash
Fairly impressive considering my BMW can beat that just to get through an MOT...although in fairness to the 1er it passed first time, the only advisory was a "Minor Oil Leak". A couple of gaskets, a sump and plenty of labour later, it no longer leaks oil.
Anyway, considering the above costs I decided to splash some cash on the Civic - I spent the grand total of 12 pounds on an FM Transmitter from Halfords. Despite the fact the instruction manual bears no resemblance whatsoever to the actual set up procedure, after some random pushing of buttons it's up and running and is doing a job.
Would prefer a BT Dongle but the lack of AUX in scuppers that somewhat, and after 15 months I'm finally bored of my CD Collection
Am debating with myself whether to splash £30 on some paint (primer/basecoat/lacquer) to repair the paint damage on the front bumper of the shedx5.
It goes against shed rules, but other than that, the rest of the body is pretty straight so it would tidy it up a bit.
On the negative side, i've never really filled and painted a car anywhere where its seen
On the positive side, its a shed, so it would be a good practice piece
The other option is £10 for a stick on number plate and slap that over the top - but would probably still need to fill and flat the damage, and it could look a bit odd when its on there due to the position.
Or i could just leave it.....
It goes against shed rules, but other than that, the rest of the body is pretty straight so it would tidy it up a bit.
On the negative side, i've never really filled and painted a car anywhere where its seen
On the positive side, its a shed, so it would be a good practice piece
The other option is £10 for a stick on number plate and slap that over the top - but would probably still need to fill and flat the damage, and it could look a bit odd when its on there due to the position.
Or i could just leave it.....
Dunno if this counts as a shed but it certainly looks like one up close, I present to you my a6 Le-Mon
Wonky front bumper, scratches and dents all over, wheels kurbed to death, bubbling window tints… you name it
But it IS the Le Mans, quattro, auto, in a good colour and was very cheap…. On 233k now
Chain rattle on startup? Check
Torque converter + gearbox fighting for survival? Check
Radio that comes on when the car is unlocked/door opened/looked at/farted near? Check
Have no idea what the replacement will be if/when she eventually dies… perhaps a L322 or something equally dumb
Very underrated these a6’s. Built like a tank
Wonky front bumper, scratches and dents all over, wheels kurbed to death, bubbling window tints… you name it
But it IS the Le Mans, quattro, auto, in a good colour and was very cheap…. On 233k now
Chain rattle on startup? Check
Torque converter + gearbox fighting for survival? Check
Radio that comes on when the car is unlocked/door opened/looked at/farted near? Check
Have no idea what the replacement will be if/when she eventually dies… perhaps a L322 or something equally dumb
Very underrated these a6’s. Built like a tank
RetroPug said:
Your experience of fitting a wide range of parts to old sheds and then being around to see how they perform and last is really useful- hopefully I can pick your brain regarding NAPA suspension parts.
As you say, they are indeed cheap. My shed had a broken rear spring and a pair of NAPA springs delivered was something like £38 and they have been fine.
My dampers do not leak, but the car is pretty floaty and pitches a lot under braking, and the rear ones felt poor when tested by hand during the rear spring replacement.
Do you have any experience of NAPA shock absorbers in particular? Obviously things like Bilstein would be preferred but the NAPA ones are incredibly inexpensive to the point where they could be replaced several times. I would rather do it once, and as the goal is to restore reasonable ride and handling rather than "I have failed my MOT" I'm trying to establish whether NAPA dampers would be a false economy, a pair of rears is £43!
Do they ride and handle well for what they are?
Edit: Or indeed, any of the other cheap brands really, RIDEX are autodoc's own brand and are similar money, likewise KRAFT automotive are £18ish a rear corner and so on.
I'll spend the money on Bilstein B4s or KYBs if they are all garbage but it's for the daily hack to replace tired 131k mile 19yo ones rather than anything special.
I've fitted loads of Napa suspension parts. Are they any good? Well they seem to be better than the ones that I took off. Are they better than a 'proper' brand? No idea, I've never tested them side by side, and I'm probably not a good enough driver / or driving in demanding enough circumstances to tell. Would I fit Napa to my MR2 where the precise handling is the big attraction? - probably not. Would I fit them to a 20 year old shed that I use for commuting that has just failed it's MOT. Hell yeah. As you say, they are indeed cheap. My shed had a broken rear spring and a pair of NAPA springs delivered was something like £38 and they have been fine.
My dampers do not leak, but the car is pretty floaty and pitches a lot under braking, and the rear ones felt poor when tested by hand during the rear spring replacement.
Do you have any experience of NAPA shock absorbers in particular? Obviously things like Bilstein would be preferred but the NAPA ones are incredibly inexpensive to the point where they could be replaced several times. I would rather do it once, and as the goal is to restore reasonable ride and handling rather than "I have failed my MOT" I'm trying to establish whether NAPA dampers would be a false economy, a pair of rears is £43!
Do they ride and handle well for what they are?
Edit: Or indeed, any of the other cheap brands really, RIDEX are autodoc's own brand and are similar money, likewise KRAFT automotive are £18ish a rear corner and so on.
I'll spend the money on Bilstein B4s or KYBs if they are all garbage but it's for the daily hack to replace tired 131k mile 19yo ones rather than anything special.
Edited by RetroPug on Friday 10th March 12:44
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