Epoxy Coating Garage Floors (Preparation?)
Discussion
Hi Mike,
Coverage, your probably going to cut it close. When i did mine, the first coat took alot of paint as you were working it into all the grooves, knucks and crannies, and i very nearly ran out. If theres are area of your garage that receives low traffic, try to spread it thinnly there to make the paint go further (Just for your first coat).
The second coat, i had quite a bit left over at the end and i managed to get it down quite thickly too.
The finish has faired really well, not sure if you read that i also did a 1 foot long section out onto my driveway. This is/was bare concrete and had no prep whatsoever, it has survived being outside since application without any change or obvious wear, and its the place where my tyres are often rotating as i back in.
The reason for the difference in shean is probably down to thickness, over most of my garage the two coats are quite thin, but towards the end of the second coat i noticed i had quite a bit left and laid it down much thicker. Now its all dried, the thicker sections are very shiney compared to the thinner sections. Also the areas where the under lying concrete was smooth, the finish is shiny, where the concrete was textured, its dull. Also lighting comes into play i think, there ad shots are from brightly lit warehouses compared to my comparitivley dully lit garage.
You have about 30 mins realistically to get the paint down before it starts to thicken up. You first coat will take MUCH longer than you think it will, i'd advise three people to get the first coat down, and maybe two for the section coat.
I used 3" wide paint brushes, cheap ones, and just threw them away after each application.
If i was doing it again, i would personally buy another 5kg, and put a third coat down, nice and thick over the textured areas. This isn't essential but i would do it regardless. This would give me a nice and smooth floor, and as i jet wash it down frequently, it would make it easier to clean.
A drill powered stirrer is definately a good idea aswell.
12 months later the finish has worn well, and after a clean it looks nearly as good as the day i put it down. My garage is a working garage, things are regularly jacked up on the bare flooring, petrol and other fluids often spilt etc.
Hope that helps
Matt
Coverage, your probably going to cut it close. When i did mine, the first coat took alot of paint as you were working it into all the grooves, knucks and crannies, and i very nearly ran out. If theres are area of your garage that receives low traffic, try to spread it thinnly there to make the paint go further (Just for your first coat).
The second coat, i had quite a bit left over at the end and i managed to get it down quite thickly too.
The finish has faired really well, not sure if you read that i also did a 1 foot long section out onto my driveway. This is/was bare concrete and had no prep whatsoever, it has survived being outside since application without any change or obvious wear, and its the place where my tyres are often rotating as i back in.
The reason for the difference in shean is probably down to thickness, over most of my garage the two coats are quite thin, but towards the end of the second coat i noticed i had quite a bit left and laid it down much thicker. Now its all dried, the thicker sections are very shiney compared to the thinner sections. Also the areas where the under lying concrete was smooth, the finish is shiny, where the concrete was textured, its dull. Also lighting comes into play i think, there ad shots are from brightly lit warehouses compared to my comparitivley dully lit garage.
You have about 30 mins realistically to get the paint down before it starts to thicken up. You first coat will take MUCH longer than you think it will, i'd advise three people to get the first coat down, and maybe two for the section coat.
I used 3" wide paint brushes, cheap ones, and just threw them away after each application.
If i was doing it again, i would personally buy another 5kg, and put a third coat down, nice and thick over the textured areas. This isn't essential but i would do it regardless. This would give me a nice and smooth floor, and as i jet wash it down frequently, it would make it easier to clean.
A drill powered stirrer is definately a good idea aswell.
12 months later the finish has worn well, and after a clean it looks nearly as good as the day i put it down. My garage is a working garage, things are regularly jacked up on the bare flooring, petrol and other fluids often spilt etc.
Hope that helps
Matt
Hi Matt
Thanks for the answers ... guess I may have to bribe the wife and kids then to help me get the first coat down ... my garage floor is fine UNDER where the car would be but at the sides - where it has received more foot traffic, it is much more worn with the aggregate in the concrete showing through - it was originally a tamped finish.
So like yours. it may not come out super shiny everywhere but at the end of the day, as long as it looks okay, is hardwearing and eliminates the dust i've been getting, I'll be happy!
I wonder if it's worth *slightly* thinning down the first coat - although they say not to - to achieve better (and quicker) coverage? Although with what I'm not quite sure ... maybe that is a bad idea. I'm sure they'd suggest it otherwise.
I wonder if I *sealed* the concrete with something first before the first coat, whether the first coat would then spread easier and I'd get more coverage?
Although it says that ISN'T necessary on the instruction sheet.
Probably going to have a go on Sunday when the weather's nice (and the hardening times are shorter
so wish me luck!
Thanks again
Mike
Thanks for the answers ... guess I may have to bribe the wife and kids then to help me get the first coat down ... my garage floor is fine UNDER where the car would be but at the sides - where it has received more foot traffic, it is much more worn with the aggregate in the concrete showing through - it was originally a tamped finish.
So like yours. it may not come out super shiny everywhere but at the end of the day, as long as it looks okay, is hardwearing and eliminates the dust i've been getting, I'll be happy!
I wonder if it's worth *slightly* thinning down the first coat - although they say not to - to achieve better (and quicker) coverage? Although with what I'm not quite sure ... maybe that is a bad idea. I'm sure they'd suggest it otherwise.
I wonder if I *sealed* the concrete with something first before the first coat, whether the first coat would then spread easier and I'd get more coverage?
Although it says that ISN'T necessary on the instruction sheet.Probably going to have a go on Sunday when the weather's nice (and the hardening times are shorter
so wish me luck!Thanks again
Mike
I think you'll have to be carefull with anything you put down first, as the paint is designed to adhear to concrete, if you say, put PVA down first, it'll only stick to the PVA, and how well it'll wear will depend on how well the pva has adhered to the concrete.
Thinning might be possible, email the seller for advice, they were very helpful with me. With it being a two part epoxy mix though it might not be possible
Best of luck!
Matt
Thinning might be possible, email the seller for advice, they were very helpful with me. With it being a two part epoxy mix though it might not be possible
Best of luck!
Matt
Any updates on this? I know its been a while but i found this thread as im looking to paint my floor soon. That ebay seller doesnt seem to be listing products anymore. Do you have a name for the stuff you used? I had a slab laid last year for a concrete garage but its very damp. Ie if you leave something metal on the floor within a few days it will have moisture on it. I dont think it helped using damp proof membrain too as i think water has seeped in between the slab and dpm causing it to hold water
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