Car faults that were difficult or have never been solved.
Discussion
I've got my own problem at the moment 
: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
So it got me wondering what experiences other PHers have had with difficult or impossible to solve car issues and how much you've thrown at the problem before you resolved it or gave up!
: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...So it got me wondering what experiences other PHers have had with difficult or impossible to solve car issues and how much you've thrown at the problem before you resolved it or gave up!
it took 6 months to get a problem with my mustang diagnosed, and another 6 months for a 'specialist' to fit a new engine, even then they never managed it. took the car and engine back from them, and with a few mates had the car running with the new engine just 36 hours later.
the issue was the total lack of experience with a mystery fault on a yank car in the UK, no one could find it, and it was passed from garage to garage.
the issue was the total lack of experience with a mystery fault on a yank car in the UK, no one could find it, and it was passed from garage to garage.
Edited by philoldsmobile on Wednesday 29th December 13:45
I'm having a longish running issue too. I my car was consuming 1l of oil in 300miles. I took 4 garages and 2 main dealers to find the fault. It is now back at the traders garage I bought it from undergoing about the 8th consumption test. It seems to me mechanics just aren't able or allowed to diagnose a problem that requires a logical approach rather than just plugging in the diagnostics.
Buzz word said:
I'm having a longish running issue too. I my car was consuming 1l of oil in 300miles. I took 4 garages and 2 main dealers to find the fault. It is now back at the traders garage I bought it from undergoing about the 8th consumption test. It seems to me mechanics just aren't able or allowed to diagnose a problem that requires a logical approach rather than just plugging in the diagnostics.
Modern "mechanics" = parts fitters IMHOThis always reminds me of this story
General Motors Ice Cream
http://journal.naveeng.com/2007/10/17/vanilla-ice-...
I don't think it's true, a little bit of me wants it to be, so i can believe that once there existed customer service like it
General Motors Ice Cream
http://journal.naveeng.com/2007/10/17/vanilla-ice-...
I don't think it's true, a little bit of me wants it to be, so i can believe that once there existed customer service like it
t internet legend to be true more than that one. Except maybe the one where the woman gives birth to crayfish. My diesel land rover gives every symptom of a low battery, but I've now tried about 5 in it...same every time. Sluggish cranking/reluctant or no starting. Fires up fine after being jumped. Checked earthing, batteries, glow plugs, for electrical shorts, alternator (why does everyone say the alternator...surely that doesn't have anything to do with starting the car?)....I am waiting for decent weather to fit a new starter. If that doesn't fix it I will be out of ideas....
Doesn't sound like a big problem but the car is so simple it should be an easy fix...
Doesn't sound like a big problem but the car is so simple it should be an easy fix...
Carrot said:
Apparently, there is no mechanic in the united kingdom capable of fixing a 1998 Vauxhall Corsa engine misfire at idle...
My mrs had a 96 with this problem and I cured it by changing the ignition switch, this also cured the random switching off for a fraction of a second that the radio was doing.varsas said:
My diesel land rover gives every symptom of a low battery, but I've now tried about 5 in it...same every time. Sluggish cranking/reluctant or no starting. Fires up fine after being jumped. Checked earthing, batteries, glow plugs, for electrical shorts, alternator (why does everyone say the alternator...surely that doesn't have anything to do with starting the car?)....I am waiting for decent weather to fit a new starter. If that doesn't fix it I will be out of ideas....
Doesn't sound like a big problem but the car is so simple it should be an easy fix...
It does sound like an Earth issue.Doesn't sound like a big problem but the car is so simple it should be an easy fix...
I would check the earthing again, take the leads off and clean everything.
I sorted a mates sluggish starting petrol Landie with the same symptoms as yours by thoroughly cleaning up the engine earth strap connections.
As a test try fitting a jump lead from the starter body bolt back to the battery earth.
Bear in mind it could also be a poor positive connection to the starter.
I had a lovely quirky one on a Mk1 escort.
Car would start from cold first turn and drive ~300yds then stop and would not start till you left it for 4-5 hours. checked vapour lock on fuel - no hissing on opening the tank, electrics( points, rotor arm, dizzy cap, condensor, HT leads, plugs) all were checked and replaced including coil in case that was breaking down under heat or something, carb stripped and rebuilt, floats checked, mixture checked etc.
In the end it turned out that the previous owner had reconstructed the well that the tank sat in in the boot ( RH Side IIRC) but not put the bottom mounting bracket back so the tank was only held by the top mounts which had worked slightly loose. On setting off the tank moved slightly whick "kinked" the fuel pipe where it passed through the hole in the bottom of the well effectively blocking the supply, the car would then run out of fuel even though the tank was full. Leave it a couple of hours and the Tank would gradually slip back under gravity and the fuel would flow again.
Took 2 weeks of every sodding night to find that one!
Car would start from cold first turn and drive ~300yds then stop and would not start till you left it for 4-5 hours. checked vapour lock on fuel - no hissing on opening the tank, electrics( points, rotor arm, dizzy cap, condensor, HT leads, plugs) all were checked and replaced including coil in case that was breaking down under heat or something, carb stripped and rebuilt, floats checked, mixture checked etc.
In the end it turned out that the previous owner had reconstructed the well that the tank sat in in the boot ( RH Side IIRC) but not put the bottom mounting bracket back so the tank was only held by the top mounts which had worked slightly loose. On setting off the tank moved slightly whick "kinked" the fuel pipe where it passed through the hole in the bottom of the well effectively blocking the supply, the car would then run out of fuel even though the tank was full. Leave it a couple of hours and the Tank would gradually slip back under gravity and the fuel would flow again.
Took 2 weeks of every sodding night to find that one!
Oddest one I had was on a Mk1 Escort Mexico, after fitting a new brake master cylinder. The brakes were good & firm, but by the time got to the end of my ten-mile journey to work they were spongy; by the time I got home again they needed three or four pumps of the pedal to get any braking. A quick bleed & everything was fine again; went to work the next day & the process repeated itself. Again, bleeding restored the firm pedal - I found that only the rear brakes needed to be bled. Four days of this & I was totally baffled! Fortunately I worked in the friction material industry & we had a Mexico on the test fleet, so I sought the opinion of one of the test department fitters. The reply? "Aha, I know your problem".
The master cylinder was the old Girling type with a non-return valve (the "recuperating valve") between the cylinder bore & the reservoir. What was happening was that the recuperating valve spring on the new master cylinder was stronger than the old one, so strong that when the piston retracted it was pulling air in past the rear (drum) brake cylinders rather than pulling in fluid from the reservoir. The cure? Simply fill the rubber boots on the rear wheel cylinders with red rubber grease!
The master cylinder was the old Girling type with a non-return valve (the "recuperating valve") between the cylinder bore & the reservoir. What was happening was that the recuperating valve spring on the new master cylinder was stronger than the old one, so strong that when the piston retracted it was pulling air in past the rear (drum) brake cylinders rather than pulling in fluid from the reservoir. The cure? Simply fill the rubber boots on the rear wheel cylinders with red rubber grease!
I found a 205 gti going cheap because it had an engine misfire. Had loads of spares in the garage, so thought 'how hard could it be to fix?!'
2 months down the line, after replacing everything apart from the ecu, the alarm died. Tore it out and much to my surprise the misfire disappeared with it! A week later my brother wrapped it round a telegraph pole!
Bought a 309 gti automatic (nice!) a few years later, car was a perfect one lady owner example. I converted it to manual shift and put an Mi16 engine in it. After the conversion, there was a misfire at high revs. I replaced everything, including the loom. I gave up. Left it on the drive for a couple of months and was forced to sell because of a big bill on another car. The day the new owner picked it up, tried starting but had a flat battery. Sitting in the car, cursing, the rev counter jumps up all by itself (ignition on, engine off). Sit there deadly quiet, scratching my head and it happens again! Just about hear a little rattling under the dash. Turns out the ignition circuit relay on the alarm was faulty!
Top tip: If you are daft enough to buy an old Peugeot, take out the alarm!
Many years earlier, I had a Mk1 Fiesta XR2 and fitted a Janspeed turbo kit to it. All went OK, but everytime the turbo spooled up, the engine cut out. Tried absolutely everything. Broke my heart with it but one final plea on an internet forum popped up a suggestion that the vent in the carb may be blocked. Being a newbie to turbos, I didn't think to check - the gasket had been made from the Janspeed factory without the hole to pressurise the carb! Argh!!!!
Had a few more in my time too. Makes me wonder why I bother sometimes!
2 months down the line, after replacing everything apart from the ecu, the alarm died. Tore it out and much to my surprise the misfire disappeared with it! A week later my brother wrapped it round a telegraph pole!
Bought a 309 gti automatic (nice!) a few years later, car was a perfect one lady owner example. I converted it to manual shift and put an Mi16 engine in it. After the conversion, there was a misfire at high revs. I replaced everything, including the loom. I gave up. Left it on the drive for a couple of months and was forced to sell because of a big bill on another car. The day the new owner picked it up, tried starting but had a flat battery. Sitting in the car, cursing, the rev counter jumps up all by itself (ignition on, engine off). Sit there deadly quiet, scratching my head and it happens again! Just about hear a little rattling under the dash. Turns out the ignition circuit relay on the alarm was faulty!
Top tip: If you are daft enough to buy an old Peugeot, take out the alarm!
Many years earlier, I had a Mk1 Fiesta XR2 and fitted a Janspeed turbo kit to it. All went OK, but everytime the turbo spooled up, the engine cut out. Tried absolutely everything. Broke my heart with it but one final plea on an internet forum popped up a suggestion that the vent in the carb may be blocked. Being a newbie to turbos, I didn't think to check - the gasket had been made from the Janspeed factory without the hole to pressurise the carb! Argh!!!!
Had a few more in my time too. Makes me wonder why I bother sometimes!
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