Timing belt replacement tips...

[Carrot]

Going to attempt my first timing belt in a couple of weeks.

Seems straightfoward enough.

Car is a Daewoo Matiz 800cc - so I wouldn't expect any of you to be able to grasp the complexities of such a large, complex powerful engine but thought I would ask anyway

From what I understand from the service manual, it is a case of getting to the belt, locking the cam and crank so nothing moves, releasing the tensioner, replace belt, put it all back together again.

Where I am getting a tad confused is that some of the instructions go on about having retime everything after you have replaced the belt - surely if nothing moved, this would not be needed?

Garages apparently charge £225 for this job, the belt kit is £55, and it takes roughly 2 hours for a beginner apparently (book time is 1.10)

Any tips would be grateful?

[thinfourth2]

On the upside if you get it wrong you will only be down 15Bhp

I would advise before you do the job take all the plugs out and put a spanner on the crank bolt and spin the engine a few times over by hand and get a good feel for how it feels

Carry out the work as per the book

Then before you turn the key to release the monster turn the engine over again by hand to check nothing is touching inside.

[Major Fallout]

Cut the existing belt in half, so its half its width.

Then fit your new belt, then cut off the rest of the old bet.

Job done!

[deveng]

"if at first you don't succeed, don't try timing belts or sky diving".

After fitting the new belt for the love of god turn the engine over by hand. If there is anything out of place you will spot it without mullering the engine!

[supersingle]

deveng said:

"if at first you don't succeed, don't try timing belts or sky diving".

After fitting the new belt for the love of god turn the engine over by hand. If there is anything out of place you will spot it without mullering the engine!

I've never bothered turning the engine over by hand. I quite enjoy the first turn of the key. It's like a game of Russian roulette.

[steveo3002]

turn it over by hand alot after doing it , take some digi pics before you remove it of where the marks line up

[Fish981]

Tippex. Mark the old belt and the pulleys. Transfer marks from old belt to new belt. Line up marks on new belt with marks on pulleys.

[Baz Tench]

Replace the tensioner too, as these are just as prone to failure as the belt.

[Carrot]

Baz Tench said:

Replace the tensioner too, as these are just as prone to failure as the belt.

Will do, comes as part of the kit. Worth changing the water pump as well?

[Baz Tench]

Carrot said:

Baz Tench said:

Replace the tensioner too, as these are just as prone to failure as the belt.

Will do, comes as part of the kit. Worth changing the water pump as well?

Oh ok, they never used to when I was doing them. If the water pump is easily accessible, then yeah - I would replace it. I think they're quite cheap to buy.

[ARH]

Fish981 said:

Tippex. Mark the old belt and the pulleys. Transfer marks from old belt to new belt. Line up marks on new belt with marks on pulleys.

I always do this, just gives me confidence before turning it over.

[Mr2Mike]

Baz Tench said:

Oh ok, they never used to when I was doing them.

You can buy a belt by itself or as part of a kit with idlers/tensioners etc.

[The Wookie]

thinfourth2 said:

On the upside if you get it wrong you will only be down 15Bhp

Surely on a Matiz that'd end up with the engine producing -5bhp

[Carrot]

The Wookie said:

thinfourth2 said:

On the upside if you get it wrong you will only be down 15Bhp

Surely on a Matiz that'd end up with the engine producing -5bhp

And thats downhill with the wind behind...