Locked Out of Car
Discussion
Any ideas on how to get over this?
Car has been left for a week, so the immobiliser has gone into low energy mode.
The trouble is, unlocking the car manually with the key isn't working, so can't open any either door.
Alarm is still set and the red indicator light is functioning.
How do it get it unlocked?
Car is a 2001 996 turbo.
Thanks in advance folks.
Car has been left for a week, so the immobiliser has gone into low energy mode.
The trouble is, unlocking the car manually with the key isn't working, so can't open any either door.
Alarm is still set and the red indicator light is functioning.
How do it get it unlocked?
Car is a 2001 996 turbo.
Thanks in advance folks.
The door should open with the key, however if you strip the wheel arch liner off from the near side front wheel there is a wire you can pull which will release the front boot, from there you can access the battery and recharge it.
If you can get in the car there is also a jump start point on the fuse board.
Try the other key fob and key 1st?
If you can get in the car there is also a jump start point on the fuse board.
Try the other key fob and key 1st?
As above, the door lock should physically turn and unlock with the key to enable you to open the door, whether your remote is flat or not. I don't know how it wouldn't.
Usually when mine stands and goes into power saving mode I have to unlock the door with the key (turn key so top of key moves to right) but then I don't open it, I press the remote and it disarms everything, then I open door. Turning the key wakes up the remote part.
Looks like Pete's option of the emergency cable is your best bet, but get those locks looked at as that is very strange. Good luck.
Usually when mine stands and goes into power saving mode I have to unlock the door with the key (turn key so top of key moves to right) but then I don't open it, I press the remote and it disarms everything, then I open door. Turning the key wakes up the remote part.
Looks like Pete's option of the emergency cable is your best bet, but get those locks looked at as that is very strange. Good luck.
pete a said:
The door should open with the key, however if you strip the wheel arch liner off from the near side front wheel there is a wire you can pull which will release the front boot, from there you can access the battery and recharge it.
If you can get in the car there is also a jump start point on the fuse board.
Try the other key fob and key 1st?
I thought the fuse board thing was to supply power and absolutely NOT to jump start. If you can get in the car there is also a jump start point on the fuse board.
Try the other key fob and key 1st?
Hi,
Sad as it sounds I know your pain - got myself in the same situation. The previous owner disengaged the lock mechanism in the door and I found myself in the same situation as you're in now. Disconnecting battery, triggering the alarm or rocking of the car wont help. Also, when the car is clocked the internal door handles are disengaged (we tried to pull them through the seals.
Long story short... Order a new driver side glass and use a hammer
I called multiple "specialists" asking to open the car and no one was able to help me.
Sorry mate.
[edit]Mine is 2004 996 C2[/edit]
--
Peter.
Sad as it sounds I know your pain - got myself in the same situation. The previous owner disengaged the lock mechanism in the door and I found myself in the same situation as you're in now. Disconnecting battery, triggering the alarm or rocking of the car wont help. Also, when the car is clocked the internal door handles are disengaged (we tried to pull them through the seals.
Long story short... Order a new driver side glass and use a hammer
I called multiple "specialists" asking to open the car and no one was able to help me.
Sorry mate.
[edit]Mine is 2004 996 C2[/edit]
--
Peter.
Hi Peter,
I was fearing that.
However, I have spoken with the guys at Northway, who spent a good fifteen minutes on the phone with me.
The suggestion, is that I strip out the wheel arch liner, pull the luggage compartment cord, disconnect the negative from the battery and repeatedly flash the battery, until the windows drop. Then, key into the ignition and should be able to clear the immobiliser and open the doors.
The Northway folks, were incredibly helpful, patient and full of free advice.
I have also spoken with an OPC who are very close to Northway (absolutely zero use - "bring it in and we'll take a look at it") You see, there's a bit of a problem with me doing that.
I guess I'll try this route before I go smashing any glass!
I too have hooked the door handles by getting past the window seal, but to no avail.
It's a swine of a situation Peter, but thanks for your reply.
I was fearing that.
However, I have spoken with the guys at Northway, who spent a good fifteen minutes on the phone with me.
The suggestion, is that I strip out the wheel arch liner, pull the luggage compartment cord, disconnect the negative from the battery and repeatedly flash the battery, until the windows drop. Then, key into the ignition and should be able to clear the immobiliser and open the doors.
The Northway folks, were incredibly helpful, patient and full of free advice.
I have also spoken with an OPC who are very close to Northway (absolutely zero use - "bring it in and we'll take a look at it") You see, there's a bit of a problem with me doing that.
I guess I'll try this route before I go smashing any glass!
I too have hooked the door handles by getting past the window seal, but to no avail.
It's a swine of a situation Peter, but thanks for your reply.
Edited by Nobby Diesel on Monday 23 June 15:17
If the doors are deadlocked then smashing the glass won't get them open - so it will probably not allow you to open the bonnet either (on early cars the door physically covers the cable pull, on later ones the button's usually electrically disabled by the door being shut), so all it's likely to allow you to do is undo the steering lock and take the handbrake off in order to get it recovered. That, and make a big mess and cost you a window glass plus fitting.
I'd certainly favour getting the bonnet open with the pull cable. Either that, or get underneath and connect a jump lead to the starter motor positive lead - carefully mind! The negative lead can go to anything solid and metal (the engine itself is the obvious one).
I know it sounds obvious, but have you been trying the passenger door too? If the cable's come off the driver's door handle it'll never open, but the passenger one should do.
I'd certainly favour getting the bonnet open with the pull cable. Either that, or get underneath and connect a jump lead to the starter motor positive lead - carefully mind! The negative lead can go to anything solid and metal (the engine itself is the obvious one).
I know it sounds obvious, but have you been trying the passenger door too? If the cable's come off the driver's door handle it'll never open, but the passenger one should do.
Goose,
thanks for your reply; it makes a lot of sense.
I agree about the deadlocking.
In retrospect, I think that the issue is around the key and its effect, not the handle pull.
So, here's what i think......
When I insert the key into the drivers door lock, and turn in 90 degrees right, it doesn't have the usual effect of opening the doors. Either of them. I think that this is the key point. I don't think the blade of the key is turning the lock module inside the door.
As a result, the car is never going to be woken from its sleep mode.
The only solution I can now see, is to get into the car (however, by breaking a window, popping the bonnet via the cord and flashing the battery) and then removing the door card, with the door still closed.
Sounds like a tall order.
Having done that, I can get the lock module out and turn the key slot with a screwdriver. This should "wake" the car.
I can only imagine that the alarm will be going off, all this time.
thanks for your reply; it makes a lot of sense.
I agree about the deadlocking.
In retrospect, I think that the issue is around the key and its effect, not the handle pull.
So, here's what i think......
When I insert the key into the drivers door lock, and turn in 90 degrees right, it doesn't have the usual effect of opening the doors. Either of them. I think that this is the key point. I don't think the blade of the key is turning the lock module inside the door.
As a result, the car is never going to be woken from its sleep mode.
The only solution I can now see, is to get into the car (however, by breaking a window, popping the bonnet via the cord and flashing the battery) and then removing the door card, with the door still closed.
Sounds like a tall order.
Having done that, I can get the lock module out and turn the key slot with a screwdriver. This should "wake" the car.
I can only imagine that the alarm will be going off, all this time.
Edited by Nobby Diesel on Tuesday 24th June 01:19
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