Locked Out of Car
Discussion
I have 2 keys, both with new batteries, have tried both doors, used the key to open, used the remote to open blah blab blah.
It's deadlocked, the alarm is in power save mode and the door handle doesn't appear to be connected to the lock or the key isn't turning the lock.
I am locked out. It's a total pain in the backside.
It's deadlocked, the alarm is in power save mode and the door handle doesn't appear to be connected to the lock or the key isn't turning the lock.
I am locked out. It's a total pain in the backside.
I think it's worth first connecting a volt meter to the starter motor permanent positive and earth to at least check what power you have in the battery. If plenty then maybe try as you suggest, if not then power the car up properly (via the starter ideally, or otherwise via the battery, which will mean opening the bonnet and setting the alarm off).
Oh, and removing a door card from a locked shut door is a nightmare, and probably impossible without damaging it in some way (e.g. its formed cardboard structure can break/snap under the surface, depending where the break is determines how unsightly it'll be once put back properly). I've not done it on a 996 only on a BMW, but I have removed a 996 one with the door open and I don't imagine it'll be much different to the BMW with it shut.
Oh, and removing a door card from a locked shut door is a nightmare, and probably impossible without damaging it in some way (e.g. its formed cardboard structure can break/snap under the surface, depending where the break is determines how unsightly it'll be once put back properly). I've not done it on a 996 only on a BMW, but I have removed a 996 one with the door open and I don't imagine it'll be much different to the BMW with it shut.
Update then folks - I'm in!!!!
Thanks to all of those who replied.
Couple of things that might help others in the future.......
Firstly, when i replaced the lock module, i didn't engage the blade from the back of the outer door handle, into the white conical cup of the lock module.
This renders the key ineffective when trying to unlock the door or when trying to wake the car from sleep mode!
Secondly, the emergency pull cord was finally located, on the drivers side (RHD).
I couldn't see it, let alone reach it, with only the front section of the wheel arch liner dropped.
I found it an awful lot easier to jack the car up 6 inches and drop the rear section of liner too. This gives you more viewing room, when looking for the pull cord.
The pull cord has a loop on the end of it and was located, right up in the corner, between the bottom of the headlight, the inner wing and the front of the car. I couldn't reach it, so a coat hanger straightened out, with a hook on the end was used. You would need to be Mr Tickle or Stretch Armstrong to reach it without.
The alarm will go off as soon as you jack the car up and again when you pull the cord.
Thirdly, flashing the battery with the negative terminal will again set off the alarm, but after a few attempts, it dropped the windows a fraction, which woke the alarm, allowing me to silence the racket and open the door!!!
Thanks again for the advice. Also, great advice from Northway.
There is a thread on Rennlist with some picture too.
Knowing what I know now, I could be in within 20 minutes.
Thanks to all of those who replied.
Couple of things that might help others in the future.......
Firstly, when i replaced the lock module, i didn't engage the blade from the back of the outer door handle, into the white conical cup of the lock module.
This renders the key ineffective when trying to unlock the door or when trying to wake the car from sleep mode!
Secondly, the emergency pull cord was finally located, on the drivers side (RHD).
I couldn't see it, let alone reach it, with only the front section of the wheel arch liner dropped.
I found it an awful lot easier to jack the car up 6 inches and drop the rear section of liner too. This gives you more viewing room, when looking for the pull cord.
The pull cord has a loop on the end of it and was located, right up in the corner, between the bottom of the headlight, the inner wing and the front of the car. I couldn't reach it, so a coat hanger straightened out, with a hook on the end was used. You would need to be Mr Tickle or Stretch Armstrong to reach it without.
The alarm will go off as soon as you jack the car up and again when you pull the cord.
Thirdly, flashing the battery with the negative terminal will again set off the alarm, but after a few attempts, it dropped the windows a fraction, which woke the alarm, allowing me to silence the racket and open the door!!!
Thanks again for the advice. Also, great advice from Northway.
There is a thread on Rennlist with some picture too.
Knowing what I know now, I could be in within 20 minutes.
Nobby Diesel said:
Update then folks - I'm in!!!!
Thanks to all of those who replied.
Couple of things that might help others in the future.......
Firstly, when i replaced the lock module, i didn't engage the blade from the back of the outer door handle, into the white conical cup of the lock module.
This renders the key ineffective when trying to unlock the door or when trying to wake the car from sleep mode!
Secondly, the emergency pull cord was finally located, on the drivers side (RHD).
I couldn't see it, let alone reach it, with only the front section of the wheel arch liner dropped.
I found it an awful lot easier to jack the car up 6 inches and drop the rear section of liner too. This gives you more viewing room, when looking for the pull cord.
The pull cord has a loop on the end of it and was located, right up in the corner, between the bottom of the headlight, the inner wing and the front of the car. I couldn't reach it, so a coat hanger straightened out, with a hook on the end was used. You would need to be Mr Tickle or Stretch Armstrong to reach it without.
The alarm will go off as soon as you jack the car up and again when you pull the cord.
Thirdly, flashing the battery with the negative terminal will again set off the alarm, but after a few attempts, it dropped the windows a fraction, which woke the alarm, allowing me to silence the racket and open the door!!!
Thanks again for the advice. Also, great advice from Northway.
There is a thread on Rennlist with some picture too.
Knowing what I know now, I could be in within 20 minutes.
Congratulations! Thanks to all of those who replied.
Couple of things that might help others in the future.......
Firstly, when i replaced the lock module, i didn't engage the blade from the back of the outer door handle, into the white conical cup of the lock module.
This renders the key ineffective when trying to unlock the door or when trying to wake the car from sleep mode!
Secondly, the emergency pull cord was finally located, on the drivers side (RHD).
I couldn't see it, let alone reach it, with only the front section of the wheel arch liner dropped.
I found it an awful lot easier to jack the car up 6 inches and drop the rear section of liner too. This gives you more viewing room, when looking for the pull cord.
The pull cord has a loop on the end of it and was located, right up in the corner, between the bottom of the headlight, the inner wing and the front of the car. I couldn't reach it, so a coat hanger straightened out, with a hook on the end was used. You would need to be Mr Tickle or Stretch Armstrong to reach it without.
The alarm will go off as soon as you jack the car up and again when you pull the cord.
Thirdly, flashing the battery with the negative terminal will again set off the alarm, but after a few attempts, it dropped the windows a fraction, which woke the alarm, allowing me to silence the racket and open the door!!!
Thanks again for the advice. Also, great advice from Northway.
There is a thread on Rennlist with some picture too.
Knowing what I know now, I could be in within 20 minutes.
Glad to hear you got in there Nobby. Sorry I didn't see this thread until today, I had the same problem a couple of months ago. In my case the small pin in the lock mechanism snapped when I tried to open the car manually (known fault, corrodes easily).
In my case, I managed to find the manual release cable under the rear passenger side light cluster. Same as the front release cables, but much easier to find/get to, no need to disassemble the wheel arch liner.
That let me into the boot so I could put a power pack on the earth and live terminal and jump start the car.
Just thought I'd add for reference in case anybody is looking up this thread in the future.
In my case, I managed to find the manual release cable under the rear passenger side light cluster. Same as the front release cables, but much easier to find/get to, no need to disassemble the wheel arch liner.
That let me into the boot so I could put a power pack on the earth and live terminal and jump start the car.
Just thought I'd add for reference in case anybody is looking up this thread in the future.
There is a far easier way to get in from the back. Under the back light, left side from the back, there is a wire that when pulled releases the engine bay catch. Lift up the cover and then apply 12v to the jump start pegs. The key fob should then work as normal with the system energised.
A bent wire is needed to fish around under the light and the end of a wire coat hanger does the job.
H
A bent wire is needed to fish around under the light and the end of a wire coat hanger does the job.
H
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