996.2 GT3 Manthey K410 or alternative solution?
Discussion
Ok, so there won't be any potential noise restrictions. If you are looking to tune the car for pace i'd go
1. Suspension/chassis
2. brakes
3. Final drive
4. Diff
5. Engine
Pound for pound in terms of pace gain, the engine would be the last on y list. If you are looking singularly for engine power alone, I'd go a tried and tested route. The Metz is a lovely thing but at nearly £40k to replace, it needs to be very carefully modified. I've driven a lot of different engine modded GT3's on track. Personally, I thought that the Manthey K410 was impressive. preferred it to the 3.8 upgrade.
1. Suspension/chassis
2. brakes
3. Final drive
4. Diff
5. Engine
Pound for pound in terms of pace gain, the engine would be the last on y list. If you are looking singularly for engine power alone, I'd go a tried and tested route. The Metz is a lovely thing but at nearly £40k to replace, it needs to be very carefully modified. I've driven a lot of different engine modded GT3's on track. Personally, I thought that the Manthey K410 was impressive. preferred it to the 3.8 upgrade.
I looked into all of this for my 996.1. After much thought and discussion I got my exhaust direct from M&M and followed up by a remap at dms and new maf. I havent driven loads of other gt3s but to my ears the new soundtrack is awesome and has really freed up the engine.
I also sent the shocks off to Bilstein to refurb and had the alloys redone and a new set of Michelin's finest.
All came in at a lot less than what jzm wanted for the k400 -which in itself is a lovely thing -but for me I thought I'd get more vfm the route I took.
HTH
I also sent the shocks off to Bilstein to refurb and had the alloys redone and a new set of Michelin's finest.
All came in at a lot less than what jzm wanted for the k400 -which in itself is a lovely thing -but for me I thought I'd get more vfm the route I took.
HTH
Hi,
I have a 996 GT3 MKII with a full cargraphic system including headers complete with IPD plenum and 997 GT3 throttle body.
NO REMAP. On standard mapping and car does 427 on rollers, I imagine this to be around 410BHP.
I have had a real good track battle with a Manthey car at SPA and the owner could not believe he could not pull past my GT3 down the straights, there was nothing in it.
The exhaust is epic and I did have some issues with static testing at Oulton Park but have that sorted now, no problem at Silverstone, Donington Park, Anglesy, Spa or Zandvoort with this system. It is fine on drive by just static it struggles.
I had KW Manthey damper/spring setup but took this off the car and fitted KW Clubsports, for the money you can not go wrong, you could spend twice as much and not get twice the setup.
Sort the diff out and install CUP diff plate kit. I have a final drive out of a CUP car which has helped on track but does rev higher in top gear by around 250-300 RPM.
I had the mapping checked by Wayne and was advised to leave it alone as there would be little he could gain from the current standard map.
Good Luck.
Mike
I have a 996 GT3 MKII with a full cargraphic system including headers complete with IPD plenum and 997 GT3 throttle body.
NO REMAP. On standard mapping and car does 427 on rollers, I imagine this to be around 410BHP.
I have had a real good track battle with a Manthey car at SPA and the owner could not believe he could not pull past my GT3 down the straights, there was nothing in it.
The exhaust is epic and I did have some issues with static testing at Oulton Park but have that sorted now, no problem at Silverstone, Donington Park, Anglesy, Spa or Zandvoort with this system. It is fine on drive by just static it struggles.
I had KW Manthey damper/spring setup but took this off the car and fitted KW Clubsports, for the money you can not go wrong, you could spend twice as much and not get twice the setup.
Sort the diff out and install CUP diff plate kit. I have a final drive out of a CUP car which has helped on track but does rev higher in top gear by around 250-300 RPM.
I had the mapping checked by Wayne and was advised to leave it alone as there would be little he could gain from the current standard map.
Good Luck.
Mike
It was likely your R&P that made the difference. It's an effective mod that's for sure.
This leads nicely to an alternative thats not been mentioned. The OP could re-gear their car for the price of that Manthey kit and gain better acceleration.
To return to stock all you would need to do was fit the old cogs back in the original positions. I wouldn't view a re-gear as anything dramatic in terms of mods. Simple and very easily reversed if needed.
See Steve's list for other things worth doing. Though I would move the diff higher up the list, the benefits of having a diff that works is worth it for braking stability alone.
This leads nicely to an alternative thats not been mentioned. The OP could re-gear their car for the price of that Manthey kit and gain better acceleration.
To return to stock all you would need to do was fit the old cogs back in the original positions. I wouldn't view a re-gear as anything dramatic in terms of mods. Simple and very easily reversed if needed.
See Steve's list for other things worth doing. Though I would move the diff higher up the list, the benefits of having a diff that works is worth it for braking stability alone.
fioran0 said:
It was likely your R&P that made the difference. It's an effective mod that's for sure.
This leads nicely to an alternative thats not been mentioned. The OP could re-gear their car for the price of that Manthey kit and gain better acceleration.
To return to stock all you would need to do was fit the old cogs back in the original positions. I wouldn't view a re-gear as anything dramatic in terms of mods. Simple and very easily reversed if needed.
See Steve's list for other things worth doing. Though I would move the diff higher up the list, the benefits of having a diff that works is worth it for braking stability alone.
Agree with the higher priority of the diff. I found it a huge step change on my car coupled with an aggressive geo for rotation and corner exit (probably braking too though maybe I wasn't maximising that phase).This leads nicely to an alternative thats not been mentioned. The OP could re-gear their car for the price of that Manthey kit and gain better acceleration.
To return to stock all you would need to do was fit the old cogs back in the original positions. I wouldn't view a re-gear as anything dramatic in terms of mods. Simple and very easily reversed if needed.
See Steve's list for other things worth doing. Though I would move the diff higher up the list, the benefits of having a diff that works is worth it for braking stability alone.
Very interested in the gearing mod...which leads me to, could this be done to a GT4??
siheb said:
Am fairly certain I saw that car for sale for £44k at JZM three or so years ago. Can't see I will get more for mine - trade or private - and still have change left over... Nothing seemingly selling now at these prices, Spring time will be the true test.
yes I remember it too, used to have a sequential shifter as wellGassing Station | 911/Carrera GT | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff