what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
Lot to digest here. Let's start with some simple facts.
The very early cars have the more robust IMS bearing. So best leave it be if its not leaking much.
The very early cars use a different piston coating which is meant to be prevent scoring more. So it's much less frequent in early cars.
So some say early cars are 97, 98 and 99. Some believe it includes later too. The 3.6 is never an early car. There were some 3.4 towards the end of production which didn't have the super piston coating.
The very early cars have cable throttle and no traction control gubbins. You can spot them as the bonnet release are levers not electric. Some even have no side air bags. These early cars are the lightest of all 911 except maybe some from the 80's.
That's all off top of my head and hopefully reasonably accurate.
The very early cars have the more robust IMS bearing. So best leave it be if its not leaking much.
The very early cars use a different piston coating which is meant to be prevent scoring more. So it's much less frequent in early cars.
So some say early cars are 97, 98 and 99. Some believe it includes later too. The 3.6 is never an early car. There were some 3.4 towards the end of production which didn't have the super piston coating.
The very early cars have cable throttle and no traction control gubbins. You can spot them as the bonnet release are levers not electric. Some even have no side air bags. These early cars are the lightest of all 911 except maybe some from the 80's.
That's all off top of my head and hopefully reasonably accurate.
Slippydiff said:
Stuck a new pair of engine mounts in mine today, I went OE, they came complete with 993 part number stickers on them too.
I thought the old mounts were goosed, but when they came out, they were in surprisingly good condition, so I thought the exercise of changing them was going to pointless and expensive. How wrong was I.
The new mounts are a game changer, car feels so much more planted when cornering, it puts power down with ease and far more consistently, and even in a straight line, there’s a drastic improvement over low frequency bumps in the road and over crests. It’s improved the shift action 10-15% and generally made driving the car nicer.
Not cheap, but worth every penny, and it was a quick and easy job too
Completely agree with all of that. I was surprised at how much difference it made to the feel of the carI thought the old mounts were goosed, but when they came out, they were in surprisingly good condition, so I thought the exercise of changing them was going to pointless and expensive. How wrong was I.
The new mounts are a game changer, car feels so much more planted when cornering, it puts power down with ease and far more consistently, and even in a straight line, there’s a drastic improvement over low frequency bumps in the road and over crests. It’s improved the shift action 10-15% and generally made driving the car nicer.
Not cheap, but worth every penny, and it was a quick and easy job too
ATM said:
Lot to digest here. Let's start with some simple facts.
The very early cars have the more robust IMS bearing. So best leave it be if its not leaking much.
The very early cars use a different piston coating which is meant to be prevent scoring more. So it's much less frequent in early cars.
So some say early cars are 97, 98 and 99. Some believe it includes later too. The 3.6 is never an early car. There were some 3.4 towards the end of production which didn't have the super piston coating.
The very early cars have cable throttle and no traction control gubbins. You can spot them as the bonnet release are levers not electric. Some even have no side air bags. These early cars are the lightest of all 911 except maybe some from the 80's.
That's all off top of my head and hopefully reasonably accurate.
Many thanksThe very early cars have the more robust IMS bearing. So best leave it be if its not leaking much.
The very early cars use a different piston coating which is meant to be prevent scoring more. So it's much less frequent in early cars.
So some say early cars are 97, 98 and 99. Some believe it includes later too. The 3.6 is never an early car. There were some 3.4 towards the end of production which didn't have the super piston coating.
The very early cars have cable throttle and no traction control gubbins. You can spot them as the bonnet release are levers not electric. Some even have no side air bags. These early cars are the lightest of all 911 except maybe some from the 80's.
That's all off top of my head and hopefully reasonably accurate.
mine is W (so '00) but bizarrely an early cable throttle engine, dual row IMS, no air pump either, no traction. I've never seen a cable car with traction control?
Early car is your best bet. obviously the chances of rust etc increases. A slusher cab will be pretty slow, would it be worth going for a nice boxster instead? better place to put your money, hard to see auto cabs having too much of a renaissance.
Early car is your best bet. obviously the chances of rust etc increases. A slusher cab will be pretty slow, would it be worth going for a nice boxster instead? better place to put your money, hard to see auto cabs having too much of a renaissance.
So was I reasonably accurate with my summary or way off?
I was led to believe 1998 [or 1997] will definitely have the super piston coating. But after that not so much. Of course that could all be guff.
Quick search on ebay finds only one 1998 C2 man coupe right now - link below.
If you include more years and also 4wd then you will find more - obviously not including tips. But they are still not common.
Don't forget a 1998 car is now 25 years old.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325502383790
I was led to believe 1998 [or 1997] will definitely have the super piston coating. But after that not so much. Of course that could all be guff.
Quick search on ebay finds only one 1998 C2 man coupe right now - link below.
If you include more years and also 4wd then you will find more - obviously not including tips. But they are still not common.
Don't forget a 1998 car is now 25 years old.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325502383790
hmg said:
ATM said:
deckster said:
Interesting that you destroyed the vent! From memory it was a couple of screws and then pry it off. Mine certainly came off and went back on without any drama.
You're right that space is still limited though. I used a precision screwdriver from a kit I have for computer repairs. I don't think it was much more than a couple of inches long anyway,
Interesting - just put this down to frustration. After fumbling around on the floor I removed the seat. Then I fumbled around some more. Then I gave up but thought no don't let this beat you. So then I started removing the vent.You're right that space is still limited though. I used a precision screwdriver from a kit I have for computer repairs. I don't think it was much more than a couple of inches long anyway,
I couldn't see the little screw underneath the light switch and as I pulled the vent more and more it basically started falling apart. Then I thought sod it. My other explanation is I have now sourced a pair of clip on cup holders but my vents didn't have the little holes so I need new vents anyway. That sounds much better.
So I have a little set of precision screw drivers but mine are around 5 inches long. So this means the one in question doesn't really fit on the trickier screw. Also the screws are so tight I can't even loosen the one which has reasonable access.
So I either need another set of smaller screw drivers or my back up plan is ro remove the complete steering lock assembly and then it should just pop off.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Profile-Stubby-ratcheting...
Always handy to have in the toolkit.
shalmaneser said:
Fast Bug said:
Mine has basic traction control. 1999 car with cable throttle and cable frunk release
Interesting. Can you turn it off?How does it work? Cutting spark or is there an actuator for the throttle valve?
According to Adrian Streather's book, Porsche 996 the essential comparison, TC works by braking one rear wheel when ABS detects slip. It doesn't work above 100kph or when ABS decides the brakes are too hot (how does it know?).
He goes on to say that, if both rear wheels are spinning, engine power is reduced by reducing the quantity of fuel and retarding the ignition point.
Post 2000, the 'ECU took control of the throttle valve,' but we're obviously not interested in that.
Tbh, it's a little difficult to follow if he's talking early cable throttle cars or e-gas ones in places. In particular, where he talks of a low lock value LSD for cars with TC.
He goes on to say that, if both rear wheels are spinning, engine power is reduced by reducing the quantity of fuel and retarding the ignition point.
Post 2000, the 'ECU took control of the throttle valve,' but we're obviously not interested in that.
Tbh, it's a little difficult to follow if he's talking early cable throttle cars or e-gas ones in places. In particular, where he talks of a low lock value LSD for cars with TC.
996.1 (1998) Coupe - sunroof question.
It works…. But not as intended (I think)
If I try to open the roof (slide) by either single pressing or holding the button (furthest away from the windscreen) nothing happens.
The way I make it work is hold the button closest to the windscreen. That makes the roof tilt. I have to keep it held until it’s opened.. and the sort of does a final “jolt adjust” at the end of the movement cycle.
Then if I hold that button again so it closes, and then press the button furthest away from the windscreen, it will then work and slide open (press and hold only, no single touch).
The tilt button doesn’t seem to work at all.
What parts do I need to replace please folks ?
It works…. But not as intended (I think)
If I try to open the roof (slide) by either single pressing or holding the button (furthest away from the windscreen) nothing happens.
The way I make it work is hold the button closest to the windscreen. That makes the roof tilt. I have to keep it held until it’s opened.. and the sort of does a final “jolt adjust” at the end of the movement cycle.
Then if I hold that button again so it closes, and then press the button furthest away from the windscreen, it will then work and slide open (press and hold only, no single touch).
The tilt button doesn’t seem to work at all.
What parts do I need to replace please folks ?
Edited by conanius on Monday 27th February 07:47
rjackson964 said:
Hi chaps. Currently have a 997 gen2 c2s manual and am contemplating adding a 996 cab tip for the mrs/daughter, so we'd have a 997 coupe, 996 cab and family car, so just starting out doing my DD.
tbh the 996 was my least favourite model but the last couple of years they've really grown on me and I'm a bit smitten by them now and I think they could have a bit of a renaissance in the coming years.
Hoping the cab/tip combo means I'm looking at the less desirable end of the market and thus cheaper so I'm hoping I can pick something quite decent up for sub 20k.
Initially I was thinking an early 3.4 with IMS done, but now I'm slightly confused as to whether the 3.4s also suffer from bore scoring? And is there a difference in the years for the 3.4s for reliability or are all years the same
Or am I better off just trying to get the best maintained car (3.4/3.6) out there with the IMS done?
Have seen a couple of rebuilds advertised which may be kind of takes the risk away so may be that's the route I should take?
Thoughts appreciated?
Cheers
Guy that runs an indie posted on one of the FB groups recently saying that in 10+ years he's only ever had 1 3.4 in with borescoring. I think he said the car was on something like 170k miles. He said they see loads of 3.6 with the issue and it's particularly common on the 4S.tbh the 996 was my least favourite model but the last couple of years they've really grown on me and I'm a bit smitten by them now and I think they could have a bit of a renaissance in the coming years.
Hoping the cab/tip combo means I'm looking at the less desirable end of the market and thus cheaper so I'm hoping I can pick something quite decent up for sub 20k.
Initially I was thinking an early 3.4 with IMS done, but now I'm slightly confused as to whether the 3.4s also suffer from bore scoring? And is there a difference in the years for the 3.4s for reliability or are all years the same
Or am I better off just trying to get the best maintained car (3.4/3.6) out there with the IMS done?
Have seen a couple of rebuilds advertised which may be kind of takes the risk away so may be that's the route I should take?
Thoughts appreciated?
Cheers
nunpuncher said:
rjackson964 said:
Hi chaps. Currently have a 997 gen2 c2s manual and am contemplating adding a 996 cab tip for the mrs/daughter, so we'd have a 997 coupe, 996 cab and family car, so just starting out doing my DD.
tbh the 996 was my least favourite model but the last couple of years they've really grown on me and I'm a bit smitten by them now and I think they could have a bit of a renaissance in the coming years.
Hoping the cab/tip combo means I'm looking at the less desirable end of the market and thus cheaper so I'm hoping I can pick something quite decent up for sub 20k.
Initially I was thinking an early 3.4 with IMS done, but now I'm slightly confused as to whether the 3.4s also suffer from bore scoring? And is there a difference in the years for the 3.4s for reliability or are all years the same
Or am I better off just trying to get the best maintained car (3.4/3.6) out there with the IMS done?
Have seen a couple of rebuilds advertised which may be kind of takes the risk away so may be that's the route I should take?
Thoughts appreciated?
Cheers
Guy that runs an indie posted on one of the FB groups recently saying that in 10+ years he's only ever had 1 3.4 in with borescoring. I think he said the car was on something like 170k miles. He said they see loads of 3.6 with the issue and it's particularly common on the 4S.tbh the 996 was my least favourite model but the last couple of years they've really grown on me and I'm a bit smitten by them now and I think they could have a bit of a renaissance in the coming years.
Hoping the cab/tip combo means I'm looking at the less desirable end of the market and thus cheaper so I'm hoping I can pick something quite decent up for sub 20k.
Initially I was thinking an early 3.4 with IMS done, but now I'm slightly confused as to whether the 3.4s also suffer from bore scoring? And is there a difference in the years for the 3.4s for reliability or are all years the same
Or am I better off just trying to get the best maintained car (3.4/3.6) out there with the IMS done?
Have seen a couple of rebuilds advertised which may be kind of takes the risk away so may be that's the route I should take?
Thoughts appreciated?
Cheers
ks. I'm only a year or so away from that sort of mileage. I had an RMS a few years ago. Car was well over 170k miles at the time. Had a look at the IMS and bores while the engine was out to be cleaned (it was caked in oil!)
IMS seals were no more. Decided to leave it alone.
Scoped all 6 cylinders and zero sign of any scoring.
Now 208k miles.
IMS seals were no more. Decided to leave it alone.
Scoped all 6 cylinders and zero sign of any scoring.
Now 208k miles.
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