what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
Fast Bug said:
Correct 
Also annoyingly the car failed its MOT yesterday on the horn not working. Annoying for 2 reasons, 1 I checked that it worked as that's within my skillet and 2; they went to have a look at it today and it worked straight away so I have a lose connection somewhere
You’d think it would appreciate all the work you’ve had done on it, but no, it’s fAlso annoyingly the car failed its MOT yesterday on the horn not working. Annoying for 2 reasons, 1 I checked that it worked as that's within my skillet and 2; they went to have a look at it today and it worked straight away so I have a lose connection somewhere
king with you 
Chris Stott said:
Fast Bug said:
Correct
Also annoyingly the car failed its MOT yesterday on the horn not working. Annoying for 2 reasons, 1 I checked that it worked as that's within my skillet and 2; they went to have a look at it today and it worked straight away so I have a lose connection somewhere
You’d think it would appreciate all the work you’ve had done on it, but no, it’s fAlso annoyingly the car failed its MOT yesterday on the horn not working. Annoying for 2 reasons, 1 I checked that it worked as that's within my skillet and 2; they went to have a look at it today and it worked straight away so I have a lose connection somewhere
king with you ker before sending it in for a serious TLC session 
Fast Bug said:
Chris Stott said:
Fast Bug said:
Correct
Also annoyingly the car failed its MOT yesterday on the horn not working. Annoying for 2 reasons, 1 I checked that it worked as that's within my skillet and 2; they went to have a look at it today and it worked straight away so I have a lose connection somewhere
You’d think it would appreciate all the work you’ve had done on it, but no, it’s fAlso annoyingly the car failed its MOT yesterday on the horn not working. Annoying for 2 reasons, 1 I checked that it worked as that's within my skillet and 2; they went to have a look at it today and it worked straight away so I have a lose connection somewhere
king with you ker before sending it in for a serious TLC session Maybe go back to the treat it mean, keep it keen approach.
I know a few owners here have a Momo/Cup wheel… if you have the alcantara version best not to let it get too dirty!
After months of my wife driving the car with sweaty hands & make up, mine looked pretty much ruined… like a plastic wheel… completely smooth.
Had google on how to restore it and bought some of this…
And this…
An hour and a half of soaking/scrubbing/soaking/scrubbing resulted in only a minor improvement in the less bad areas and virtually no improvement between 9 and 3…
Had to break out the heavy stuff… fairy liquid and the brush we used for getting paint out of the beams at our house… stiff metal.
Soaking the wheel in warm soapy water and then attacking it with the brush eventually got the knapp back. Will see how it dries… may need another session.
Best to not let them get too far gone!
After months of my wife driving the car with sweaty hands & make up, mine looked pretty much ruined… like a plastic wheel… completely smooth.
Had google on how to restore it and bought some of this…
And this…
An hour and a half of soaking/scrubbing/soaking/scrubbing resulted in only a minor improvement in the less bad areas and virtually no improvement between 9 and 3…
Had to break out the heavy stuff… fairy liquid and the brush we used for getting paint out of the beams at our house… stiff metal.
Soaking the wheel in warm soapy water and then attacking it with the brush eventually got the knapp back. Will see how it dries… may need another session.
Best to not let them get too far gone!
Chris Stott said:
I know a few owners here have a Momo/Cup wheel… if you have the alcantara version best not to let it get too dirty!
After months of my wife driving the car with sweaty hands & make up, mine looked pretty much ruined… like a plastic wheel… completely smooth.
Had google on how to restore it and bought some of this…
And this…
An hour and a half of soaking/scrubbing/soaking/scrubbing resulted in only a minor improvement in the less bad areas and virtually no improvement between 9 and 3…
Had to break out the heavy stuff… fairy liquid and the brush we used for getting paint out of the beams at our house… stiff metal.
Soaking the wheel in warm soapy water and then attacking it with the brush eventually got the knapp back. Will see how it dries… may need another session.
Best to not let them get too far gone!
Hope it works and looks like new once it dries Chris.After months of my wife driving the car with sweaty hands & make up, mine looked pretty much ruined… like a plastic wheel… completely smooth.
Had google on how to restore it and bought some of this…
And this…
An hour and a half of soaking/scrubbing/soaking/scrubbing resulted in only a minor improvement in the less bad areas and virtually no improvement between 9 and 3…
Had to break out the heavy stuff… fairy liquid and the brush we used for getting paint out of the beams at our house… stiff metal.
Soaking the wheel in warm soapy water and then attacking it with the brush eventually got the knapp back. Will see how it dries… may need another session.
Best to not let them get too far gone!
But in my experience : ie having done exactly the same, but with the correct brass suede cleaning brush (somewhat less abrasive, but when all's said and done, it's just softer brass wire rather than hard steel wire)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Quality-Portable-Durable-...
the end result looked great, but I found that once the knapp's been flattened with sweaty mitts and then washed and brushed, it seems it makes the knapp finer, which in turn means it absorbs sweat and dirt more readily, and thus in a very short space of time it flattens and looks tired and worn once more ...
Ultimately, I found this to be the best solution ...
Edited by Slippydiff on Friday 10th March 16:41
It’s not completely dry yet, but it’s loads better… took it for a little thrash down some local lanes this afternoon as a treat
Like always with the car, it will need a massive clean when I’m next back in the Uk as my wife, who moans when it needs money spending on it, never bothers to look after it.
Like always with the car, it will need a massive clean when I’m next back in the Uk as my wife, who moans when it needs money spending on it, never bothers to look after it.
Fast Bug said:
Mine needs doing as well. I'm not going to bother, it'll probably lunch the engine as a thank you 
My recent 1998 996 C2 purchase has GT3 wheels fitted which are not it's correct wheels, the car was fitted with the 18" hollow spokes from the factory. I have managed to source a set of correct bare wheels and now need to source some tyres. What was the correct tyre size for these wheels and what is the availability like to purchase.? Thanks in advance.
Dave
Dave
stretcher said:
My recent 1998 996 C2 purchase has GT3 wheels fitted which are not it's correct wheels, the car was fitted with the 18" hollow spokes from the factory. I have managed to source a set of correct bare wheels and now need to source some tyres. What was the correct tyre size for these wheels and what is the availability like to purchase.? Thanks in advance.
Dave
225 40 18Dave
265 35 18
You should have a label somewhere telling you tyre pressures. Which are way too high btw. This will tell you the tyre sizes also.
roughly 10% underfilled. so ~32/40. I figured it might be best to keep the ratio the same F/R? It's science.
EDIT: I've also just noticed the instruction to check my spare tyre pressure regularly, which I have literally never done so will add that to the list.
EDIT: I've also just noticed the instruction to check my spare tyre pressure regularly, which I have literally never done so will add that to the list.
Edited by shalmaneser on Wednesday 15th March 11:29
Chris Stott said:
30/38. 225/265 PS4’s. Have run lower rear pressures on tyres with a stiffer side wall.
Rear pressures far more important to how the car rides and handles.
ThisRear pressures far more important to how the car rides and handles.
Most weight in the back so you will feel changes more.
I have had my fronts as low as single digits [user error] and the car drives ok - I wont say fine because it did start to scrabble a bit under braking.
The original Boxster has the same size tyres and it runs 29F/36R and I would say that's a little too much in the rear as you will find the centres wear out first on the rear with the Boxster. But like I say the 996 is heavier in the rear.
If you check the pic I posted above
Porsche recommended pressures for 18 setup in the 996 is 36F/44R.
Porsche recommended pressures for 17 setup in the 996 is 36F/36R.
Mentioning the 17 pressures so you dont assume you have to have higher in the rears.
Try a few different pressures and see if you can notice a difference. You might find the rear end slides around a bit more if you go too low. If you ask me that's not a bad thing as the rest of the time it is almost too planted. If you are just pootling around then slightly lower will give you a bit more comfort. If you intend to be flat out and on it then a little higher may give you a sharper feel.
Most people seem to agree that the Porsche recommended pressure of 44R is madness. I would argue if you are lowering the rears then you need to lower the fronts to match.
If you ask 10 different owners you will get probably 10 different answers.
shalmaneser said:
EDIT: I've also just noticed the instruction to check my spare tyre pressure regularly, which I have literally never done so will add that to the list.
If this tyre is 20 years old then I wouldn't recommend driving on it. I've removed my spare and leave it at home so if I do get a flat I'll just call the break down truck. Also makes the froot a bit more usable. Has anyone here used the standard jack?
Chris Stott said:
I know a few owners here have a Momo/Cup wheel… if you have the alcantara version best not to let it get too dirty!
After months of my wife driving the car with sweaty hands & make up, mine looked pretty much ruined… like a plastic wheel… completely smooth.
Had google on how to restore it and bought some of this…
Best to not let them get too far gone!
I have done a few with 800 wet and dry followed by 1500 wet and dry depending on how 'fluffy' you do/don't want it. Used dry. After months of my wife driving the car with sweaty hands & make up, mine looked pretty much ruined… like a plastic wheel… completely smooth.
Had google on how to restore it and bought some of this…
Best to not let them get too far gone!
They come up like new.
So, if you have bobbles on it once you have finished, use some wet and dry on it to get it looking factory fresh again.
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