what is an 'early' 3.4 996?

[ATM]

I now have 2 x 996 with Momo type steering wheels and both have a problem with the horn. Work absolutely fine when the car is off. Turn it on and the horn doesn't work. Surely that's not a bad connection if it works when the car is off. So where does that leave Me? Any ideas lads?

[IanG1]

You need to earth the column
https://youtu.be/iZu_HHqgmKY

[ATM]

IanG1 said:

You need to earth the column
https://youtu.be/iZu_HHqgmKY

Yeah I've seen this previously. But does he mention symptoms like mine or horn just not working at all?

[IREvans]

ATM said:

I now have 2 x 996 with Momo type steering wheels and both have a problem with the horn. Work absolutely fine when the car is off. Turn it on and the horn doesn't work. Surely that's not a bad connection if it works when the car is off. So where does that leave Me? Any ideas lads?

First check the continuity of the horn switch (but I’m presuming this will be ok as the horn does work when the engine isn’t running, with ignition on)

Secondly, try earthing the horn switch straight to a known good earth, either into the fuse box, to another earth post under the seat or the only door striker. If the horn then works with the engine running, then you’ll know that the earth from the horn switch to the column isn’t good

[jimmy p]

IanG1 said:

IanG1 said:

Just caught my eye, a manual sub 100K early car with history, got to be worth this all day long
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256041290606?mkcid=16&a...

Didn't hang around long, looks like it's sold on their website.

Wouldn't surprise me if this ended up at another dealers such as fgp

[IanG1]

Looking at the pictures and video there looked quite a bit of paint mismatch across various panels so unless FGP are desperate for stock I doubt there is enough money in it as it isn't their usual 25K plus 996.1 aero

[jimmy p]

IanG1 said:

Looking at the pictures and video there looked quite a bit of paint mismatch across various panels so unless FGP are desperate for stock I doubt there is enough money in it as it isn't their usual 25K plus 996.1 aero

Depends what it was bought for, however a bit of paint required isn't going to put off a Porsche specialist dealer, they wouldn't be paying retail for the paint either, I think unless that car was a complete dog there would of been a nice drink in it for a dealer such as fgp

[marky911]

ATM said:

IanG1 said:

You need to earth the column
https://youtu.be/iZu_HHqgmKY

Yeah I've seen this previously. But does he mention symptoms like mine or horn just not working at all?

That will work for yours. Your symptoms are exactly as mine were. Working when off. Not working once ignition or engine was on.

Covered here on my old car.

http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=118164&po...


“The throttle cable” lad ran his earth into the loom rather than to the body like me. Probably a neater solution but both work.

[ATM]

marky911 said:

ATM said:

IanG1 said:

You need to earth the column
https://youtu.be/iZu_HHqgmKY

Yeah I've seen this previously. But does he mention symptoms like mine or horn just not working at all?

That will work for yours. Your symptoms are exactly as mine were. Working when off. Not working once ignition or engine was on.

Covered here on my old car.

http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=118164&po...


“The throttle cable” lad ran his earth into the loom rather than to the body like me. Probably a neater solution but both work.

Helpful thanks

[jonny996]

Got to say, 150 miles around Scottish Borders and not a thing went wrong. Incredible for 23 years old

[SteveStrange]

jonny996 said:

Got to say, 150 miles around Scottish Borders and not a thing went wrong. Incredible for 23 years old

My elderly mum has just out 400 miles on mine (160k miles, 25 years old!) on a solo round trip to the South West. Her only problem was "No usb charger for my phone"!

Edited by SteveStrange on Monday 17th April 07:33

[HughG]

I fitted a new rear screen seal to mine yesterday as it had lifted in the bottom near side corner and was holding water against the paintwork.



Some of the information about changing the rear outer seal online is misleading, hopefully the below clears things up, it is an easy DIY job.

I had read that it is usually caused by a upstand of the INNER seal breaking off, this forms a channel into which the outer seal secures. The inner seal needs to glass to come out to be replaced.

Investigating the lifting corner of mine showed no channel, so I assumed mine had failed in this way, that was until I caught the lifting corner while washing the car which pulled a section out and it became clear that there are 2 different profiles - the top and sides have the upstand, and the bottom doesn't, instead in this area the seal fits rounds the bottom of the glass/inner seal.

My replacement seal was slightly long, and needed to be pushed back against itself as it was installed to prevent stretching it and having excess. The easiest way around this would be to start at the top centre, then you can take out any excess evenly on both sides. The bottom needs a plastic trim tool and just pushes up around the edge of the inner seal.

The part number is 996.545.521.04 which was £72 from OPC with PCGB discount.



That and a new front number plate plinth and it's looks pretty smart at the moment, just needs the headlights polishing as they are starting to yellow.

[SteveStrange]

HughG said:

I fitted a new rear screen seal to mine yesterday as it had lifted in the bottom near side corner and was holding water against the paintwork.



Some of the information about changing the rear outer seal online is misleading, hopefully the below clears things up, it is an easy DIY job.

I had read that it is usually caused by a upstand of the INNER seal breaking off, this forms a channel into which the outer seal secures. The inner seal needs to glass to come out to be replaced.

Investigating the lifting corner of mine showed no channel, so I assumed mine had failed in this way, that was until I caught the lifting corner while washing the car which pulled a section out and it became clear that there are 2 different profiles - the top and sides have the upstand, and the bottom doesn't, instead in this area the seal fits rounds the bottom of the glass/inner seal.

My replacement seal was slightly long, and needed to be pushed back against itself as it was installed to prevent stretching it and having excess. The easiest way around this would be to start at the top centre, then you can take out any excess evenly on both sides. The bottom needs a plastic trim tool and just pushes up around the edge of the inner seal.

The part number is 996.545.521.04 which was £72 from OPC with PCGB discount.



That and a new front number plate plinth and it's looks pretty smart at the moment, just needs the headlights polishing as they are starting to yellow.

Thanks for this, mine has that vey problem, but I've been a bit too scared to investigate too much!

[ATM]

SteveStrange said:

HughG said:

I fitted a new rear screen seal to mine yesterday as it had lifted in the bottom near side corner and was holding water against the paintwork.



Some of the information about changing the rear outer seal online is misleading, hopefully the below clears things up, it is an easy DIY job.

I had read that it is usually caused by a upstand of the INNER seal breaking off, this forms a channel into which the outer seal secures. The inner seal needs to glass to come out to be replaced.

Investigating the lifting corner of mine showed no channel, so I assumed mine had failed in this way, that was until I caught the lifting corner while washing the car which pulled a section out and it became clear that there are 2 different profiles - the top and sides have the upstand, and the bottom doesn't, instead in this area the seal fits rounds the bottom of the glass/inner seal.

My replacement seal was slightly long, and needed to be pushed back against itself as it was installed to prevent stretching it and having excess. The easiest way around this would be to start at the top centre, then you can take out any excess evenly on both sides. The bottom needs a plastic trim tool and just pushes up around the edge of the inner seal.

The part number is 996.545.521.04 which was £72 from OPC with PCGB discount.



That and a new front number plate plinth and it's looks pretty smart at the moment, just needs the headlights polishing as they are starting to yellow.

Thanks for this, mine has that vey problem, but I've been a bit too scared to investigate too much!

Me too and same here.

My original 996 has this and has been looking bad for a while now but I generally dont use that car so it is just abandoned and unloved. I'll get some pics to show what a bad one looks like. I was planning to get to it if and when I get the car painted, if that ever happens. I did have some water ingress in the back of the car too. Not a lot but enough to cause some misting of the rear screen. Can these top seals leak if bad enough or does the lower seal keep the water at bay?

[HughG]

I think is it’s the inner seal that does the waterproofing, and the other to stop water ponding. Mine doesn’t leak.

[jonny996]

Mine has same issue as well, stupid question but what if you glued it back in place

[ATM]

jonny996 said:

Mine has same issue as well, stupid question but what if you glued it back in place

I'm sure I have heard this mentioned. I think someone said use the black window sealant. Perhaps it was the CLR thread. Mine looks beyond saving.

[ATM]

ATM said:

I'll get some pics to show what a bad one looks like.

I took the foam parts out as this helped prevent some of the misting.

Recently started using those cheap Asda dehumidifiers too which are now half full. But this is more humidity from parking during the cold weather.

[shalmaneser]

HughG said:

I fitted a new rear screen seal to mine yesterday as it had lifted in the bottom near side corner and was holding water against the paintwork.



Some of the information about changing the rear outer seal online is misleading, hopefully the below clears things up, it is an easy DIY job.

I had read that it is usually caused by a upstand of the INNER seal breaking off, this forms a channel into which the outer seal secures. The inner seal needs to glass to come out to be replaced.

Investigating the lifting corner of mine showed no channel, so I assumed mine had failed in this way, that was until I caught the lifting corner while washing the car which pulled a section out and it became clear that there are 2 different profiles - the top and sides have the upstand, and the bottom doesn't, instead in this area the seal fits rounds the bottom of the glass/inner seal.

My replacement seal was slightly long, and needed to be pushed back against itself as it was installed to prevent stretching it and having excess. The easiest way around this would be to start at the top centre, then you can take out any excess evenly on both sides. The bottom needs a plastic trim tool and just pushes up around the edge of the inner seal.

The part number is 996.545.521.04 which was £72 from OPC with PCGB discount.



That and a new front number plate plinth and it's looks pretty smart at the moment, just needs the headlights polishing as they are starting to yellow.

I need to do this mine looks terrible.

Also - where did you get your wiper blanking plug from?

[ATM]

HughG said:

I think is it’s the inner seal that does the waterproofing, and the other to stop water ponding. Mine doesn’t leak.

Would anything else have the potential to leak?

Car is poverty / driver spec - has no sunroof.

Wiper maybe but not sure what else.