what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
speaking of cooling & early 3.4 996! 
I wonder, would it be good to use evans waterless coolant on a 996 closed deck rebuilt-engine? Since the only disadvantage of having closed-deck design might increase the temperature over there and evans might just avoid that? Would be totally trouble-free 5 years period without touching the coolant levels at all, unless there is a major leak or whatsoever?
I wonder, would it be good to use evans waterless coolant on a 996 closed deck rebuilt-engine? Since the only disadvantage of having closed-deck design might increase the temperature over there and evans might just avoid that? Would be totally trouble-free 5 years period without touching the coolant levels at all, unless there is a major leak or whatsoever?
ooid said:
Go ahead with Cmoose's advice and definitely, in my opinion, try NOT TO MIX the coolant. Were you picking your car up from the service and it was on low-coolant? they should have topped up there, already whatever the real coolant in the tank. A few technicians told me before (OPC as well), if your coolant is low and you are not sure about what's inside there,during non-winter conditions just top-up with water but not coolant and do not drive long-miles until you sort out the coolant mixture.
They had the engine out and replaced a number of coolant pipes (oil contamination from the VarioCam solenoid), so it would have been drained and refilled- so before I tipped a litre and a half of G40 in there it'd all have been the same thing. I have emailed Precision to ask whether what I used to top up is compatible with whatever they used. I'm also hopeful that this was the cooling system burping after being refilled, rather than a leak. We shall see!anonymous said:
[redacted]
Cheers cmoose, I guess usual suspects dodgy rads,hoses or resistors failing might put the engine in danger? It does look like, Evans, not reaching to boiling point and less corrosion would benefit probably, I don't know but in shorter terms as it is very specialized once the system is Evans, you can not top-up with something else! I remember seeing that RPM also recommends Evans in their conversions, would be good to know if there are any owners out there using it for a while now?
early 996 + proper rebuild = £
early 986 + proper rebuild = £/2
That's the dilemma
I have had Evans coolant in my 3.4 (2001) pretty much since I got it 18 months ago. It needed some new pipes and expansion tank anyway, and as the rads had recently been replaced, I allowed my local Indy to talk me into it. On the basis that it might help avoid a cylinder head crack / intermix doom, I thought it might be worthwhile. A low temp T- stat was also added and some radiator mesh from zunsport.
I was given a 1L top up container of Evans, but in 7k miles ( touch wood ) have not needed to add a drop. My impression is the the coolant now warms up a bit faster, and the temp gauge climbs a bit more readily in slow or static traffic. In most weather, with more than 40mph of breeze on the rads my gauge reads '80'. In spirited driving on warm days, or in bad traffic it gets close to '90' and on occasion a touch higher. I have not seen '100' on the dial yet, but I expect I will when the car goes for an alpine boys trip.
Before that, she is off to CG for some Ohlins r&t dampers and a few other bits.
The Odo now reads 93k, but the motor had a completely new bottom end fitted at Porsche reading ( under warranty ) in 2008/9 at 60k and a top end o/h at the owners expense. I know it will go to Hartech one day, if like cmoose my intention to take it round the clock a few times is realised. For now it runs very sweetly, long may it last!
I think the Evans is fine for road use, wether it really helps is a moot point at best. Could be snake oil. I have heard that it might not be a clever idea if you do many track days as you could get it rather hot, but again that is purely hearsay.
The Indy I use send customer engines to Hartech for rebuilds. Final assembly and refitting is done in-house. I am pretty sure they recommend Evans for them too.
I was given a 1L top up container of Evans, but in 7k miles ( touch wood ) have not needed to add a drop. My impression is the the coolant now warms up a bit faster, and the temp gauge climbs a bit more readily in slow or static traffic. In most weather, with more than 40mph of breeze on the rads my gauge reads '80'. In spirited driving on warm days, or in bad traffic it gets close to '90' and on occasion a touch higher. I have not seen '100' on the dial yet, but I expect I will when the car goes for an alpine boys trip.
Before that, she is off to CG for some Ohlins r&t dampers and a few other bits.
The Odo now reads 93k, but the motor had a completely new bottom end fitted at Porsche reading ( under warranty ) in 2008/9 at 60k and a top end o/h at the owners expense. I know it will go to Hartech one day, if like cmoose my intention to take it round the clock a few times is realised. For now it runs very sweetly, long may it last!
I think the Evans is fine for road use, wether it really helps is a moot point at best. Could be snake oil. I have heard that it might not be a clever idea if you do many track days as you could get it rather hot, but again that is purely hearsay.
The Indy I use send customer engines to Hartech for rebuilds. Final assembly and refitting is done in-house. I am pretty sure they recommend Evans for them too.
Edited by rival38 on Sunday 14th May 15:05
FYI that purple one was for sale, pre-CSR, locally to me for £10k about 16-18 months ago.
I did consider it as I loved the colour, but I really wanted an Aerokitted car and black interior, and after speaking to my mechanic about the cost (GT3 kit + fitting), I decided against it.
It was for sale for 40k for a while.
I did consider it as I loved the colour, but I really wanted an Aerokitted car and black interior, and after speaking to my mechanic about the cost (GT3 kit + fitting), I decided against it.
It was for sale for 40k for a while.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Here's the car. No buckets. Got the body bits and wheels but £35,000 seems toppy for what is essentially a car with 120,000 miles. Nice thing though.https://rpmtechnik.co.uk/sales/vehicle/996-csr-ret...
BrotherMouzone said:
FYI that purple one was for sale, pre-CSR, locally to me for £10k about 16-18 months ago.
I did consider it as I loved the colour, but I really wanted an Aerokitted car and black interior, and after speaking to my mechanic about the cost (GT3 kit + fitting), I decided against it.
It was for sale for 40k for a while.
Makes £35k asking price seem toppy. Entry level lowish mileage manual 997 C2 Gen 2 money which is what most punters would go for and quite rightly too as thats a better car.I did consider it as I loved the colour, but I really wanted an Aerokitted car and black interior, and after speaking to my mechanic about the cost (GT3 kit + fitting), I decided against it.
It was for sale for 40k for a while.
Drive by wire and vario rack does feel less honest to begin with. As you say you get used to it very quickly. Its the earlier cars cabin quality which is more of a challenge. Squeaks, cheap materials and rattles drive me mental.
On the 991.1 I have not driven one where I know what the front end is doing at the limit especially in the wet. I've only driven versions with PDCC. Admittedly I've not driven a GT version but most other variants.
On the 991.1 I have not driven one where I know what the front end is doing at the limit especially in the wet. I've only driven versions with PDCC. Admittedly I've not driven a GT version but most other variants.
rival38 said:
My impression is the the coolant now warms up a bit faster, and the temp gauge climbs a bit more readily in slow or static traffic. In most weather, with more than 40mph of breeze on the rads my gauge reads '80'. In spirited driving on warm days, or in bad traffic it gets close to '90' and on occasion a touch higher. I have not seen '100' on the dial yet, but I expect I will when the car goes for an alpine boys trip.
Thanks! Great info Edited by rival38 on Sunday 14th May 15:05
I guess it's super good to know that, it would never reach boiling point and corosion + stress would be avoided. On my next coolant bleed + change (in 3-4 years), I would be considering this for the 986 boxa, -if it will still be alive
-anonymous said:
[redacted]
I'd agree with that summation having had a 986 and now a 996.The 996 is bloody great, and it's getting better all of the time as I improve it - but a 986 I found I could just get in and thrash it hard with a decent set of tyres and brakes. They're both cracking cars, Porsche really did a good job.
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