what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
What are owners thoughts on suspension options?
Mine's at 170k, still on original springs/dampers, and although the ride is fine, I've noticed it's starting to feel quite 'wallowy' at the back, particularly at high speed over long bumps/crests.
Given age, mileage and use, I'm not looking to spend thousands on Ohlins or top end coilovers. Some options...
M030 - currently £660 (+vat) at Design 911
Koni 'sport suspension kit' - c.£1,100
Bilstein - c.£1,400
'Cheap' coilovers - £700-£800
I know I get the benefit of ARB upgrade with the M030 (mine has had ARB bushes replaced in the last year), but I'd really like to lower the car more than 10mm (I suspect my car is already lower than this as springs will have sagged over time)... car is road use only, so I would prefer something that didn't destroy the ride quality!
Edited by Chris Stott on Friday 25th May 12:28
Chris Stott said:
Yes, Max... not that many miles nowadays though... c.5k/year.
I’m considering a 996 as a daily. My circumstances have changed and no longer need a mile munching 5 series. Would probably do about the same annual mileage.p.s. you could have driven to Kiev and back without adding too much in proportion to the miles it’s done already
M3ax said:
I’m considering a 996 as a daily. My circumstances have changed and no longer need a mile munching 5 series. Would probably do about the same annual mileage.
p.s. you could have driven to Kiev and back without adding too much in proportion to the miles it’s done already
LOLp.s. you could have driven to Kiev and back without adding too much in proportion to the miles it’s done already
Bought mine 10 years ago on 57k, and it's been my, or my wife's daily throughout that time. Did a lot of miles in the early years (20k the 1st year I had it, for example), but I'm only 2 miles from work now, and my wife has been working in the US, so does a lot less miles. If you get a good one, and you're only going to do 5k/year, they are OK. But using them for 10-12k/year, with 100k on them, bills can run up.
Lovely things to drive. Very practical.
Trying not to do a massive thread divergence (Apologies for the tangent).
Suffice to say that a 360 has a small optimum operating window. In it, great. Out of it, er, not so much. Due to built in issues (build cost saving) in some key areas they don't stay in that window long. It is highly unlikely a track experience (we'll skip the merits of these) is going to be in that window.
For the second bit. A different thread but an interesting discussion for another day.
Suffice to say that a 360 has a small optimum operating window. In it, great. Out of it, er, not so much. Due to built in issues (build cost saving) in some key areas they don't stay in that window long. It is highly unlikely a track experience (we'll skip the merits of these) is going to be in that window.
edh said:
I drove a 360 once - at Oulton. Hated it as it was very unpredictable on corner entry. (Maybe the geo was out but it wasn't confidence inspiring at all). Nice when parked though.
They do that on worn suspension - movement where there should be none, or little. Geo. out, variable geo relative to load etc.ATM said:
I've driven 2 different 360. One was a lhd manual at a track experience day [Thruxton] and the clutch was super heavy, the gear change / shift shockingly bad and the driving position made me feel like I was sitting sideways.
Clutch was worn and in all likelihood the bushing in the shift linkage was knackered. Never sat in a leftie, you'd think they'd get that right!Chris Stott said:
Err... why are we comparing 360's to 996's and 986's?
360's prices are more comparable to a 996GT3 or a 997.1GT3... and for me, there's no decision to be made there if you're interested in driving.
For the first bit, read back.360's prices are more comparable to a 996GT3 or a 997.1GT3... and for me, there's no decision to be made there if you're interested in driving.
For the second bit. A different thread but an interesting discussion for another day.
ATM said:
I'm just talking cars. I can do it all day. Every day.
Amen.edh said:
Risk/reward ratio for a ~5-7k Boxster S is pretty good I think. Buy from an enthusiast who will likely have addressed the weak points. They are bargains.
It's a tremendously competent, well designed car, a glorious engine (more induction noise than a 996), and handles superbly. (assumes all suspension components are in good order). If you want it to feel even more connected and "sporting", fit some bucket seats - it makes a huge difference.
The 996 (3.4 C2 cable..) is somehow a bit more mature and subtle a car, even though it shares so much with the 986. It's not "shouty" so takes a while to appreciate. You won't like it if you prefer japanese-style light control weights. I prefer the steering on my 944 though, shame it has a dull i4 motor..
As for the 153k mile car you posted - it doesn't seem to fit your risk appetite and you suggest you have a bigger budget. Objectively, it will have a worn interior and will rattle and squeak. Subjectively, that will make you wish you'd bought a fresher one every time you drove it. Last summer we did a back to back test of two 3.4 C2's, mine with 60k and another with 130k (and a Hartech rebuild). There was no contest if you had to choose between the two (subjectively that is
)
Helpful, thanks.It's a tremendously competent, well designed car, a glorious engine (more induction noise than a 996), and handles superbly. (assumes all suspension components are in good order). If you want it to feel even more connected and "sporting", fit some bucket seats - it makes a huge difference.
The 996 (3.4 C2 cable..) is somehow a bit more mature and subtle a car, even though it shares so much with the 986. It's not "shouty" so takes a while to appreciate. You won't like it if you prefer japanese-style light control weights. I prefer the steering on my 944 though, shame it has a dull i4 motor..
As for the 153k mile car you posted - it doesn't seem to fit your risk appetite and you suggest you have a bigger budget. Objectively, it will have a worn interior and will rattle and squeak. Subjectively, that will make you wish you'd bought a fresher one every time you drove it. Last summer we did a back to back test of two 3.4 C2's, mine with 60k and another with 130k (and a Hartech rebuild). There was no contest if you had to choose between the two (subjectively that is
)The 153k mile car was one which popped up in my daily alerts and is one of the cheapest I've seen in a while. I can see its appeal as a lifer but you're right, probably not for me at this point.
EGTE said:
That scenario really isn't that likely. Any dodgy IMS will have failed years ago.Use Millers Nanodrive 10W-50, fit a low-temp thermostat, drive gently until warm, then drive it 'briskly'. Service regularly, drive often. Will be fine 99 times out of 100.
I'll go do some reading.
We've kinda crossed threads here but I'm seeing 986 with recently upgraded IMS (including ceramics etc). Worthwhile precaution or people trading on fear?
edh said:
As for the 153k mile car you posted - it doesn't seem to fit your risk appetite and you suggest you have a bigger budget. Objectively, it will have a worn interior and will rattle and squeak.
Although my interior is showing its age/miles, mine doesn't rattle or squeak at all... although I have had most of the suspension arms/bushes/top mounts etc replaced over the past 2 years.Chris Stott said:
What are owners thoughts on suspension options?
Mine's at 170k, still on original springs/dampers, and although the ride is fine, I've noticed it's starting to feel quite 'wallowy' at the back, particularly at high speed over long bumps/crests.
Given age, mileage and use, I'm not looking to spend thousands on Ohlins or top end coilovers. Some options...
M030 - currently £660 (+vat) at Design 911
Koni 'sport suspension kit' - c.£1,100
Bilstein - c.£1,400
'Cheap' coilovers - £700-£800
I know I get the benefit of ARB upgrade with the M030 (mine has had ARB bushes replaced in the last year), but I'd really like to lower the car more than 10mm (I suspect my car is already lower than this as springs will have sagged over time)... car is road use only, so I would prefer something that didn't destroy the ride quality!
Edited by Chris Stott on Friday 25th May 12:28
Chris Stott said:
edc said:
If they do the Koni FSD for a 996 then have a good think about them. Excellent value and clever damping.
They do... hadn't really looked at them, but they look decent VFM at <£650 for a set inc. vat.Assume they would be fine with some -30 lowering springs.
ferrisbueller said:
Ah...that's the scenario I want to avoid.
Well, it's nearly 20 years old technology/manufacturing and use. Any calculation would tell you that it would most definitely fail, so it's a risky position.The point is, 5k 986, is a flat 6, mid-engine layout with a true porsche identiy. I can't see a similar car value around with the same price, with similar driving dynamics, so anyone who enjoys driving and has around 5-10k for fun car money saved, 986 is a no-brainer. (unless you hate the looks, and did not enjoy driving). If one really wants to only enjoy roadster, 2 seater car, not so much horsepower or handling fun, than there are mazda mx5 or bmw z series around, much more bargain and probably cheaper to run, which are great imho.
ferrisbueller said:
I'll go do some reading.
We've kinda crossed threads here but I'm seeing 986 with recently upgraded IMS (including ceramics etc). Worthwhile precaution or people trading on fear?
On a personal note, my old 986 (2000 August built) had single bearing (the worst one), and we have upgraded to better bearing on 65k during clutch change. The old bearing did not sweep and it was still on good condition. Mechanically, loads of stories/theories around about this item, but ideally it is been said to change this every 4 years or 40k if you especially drive the car hard, and has the weakest bearing.
Chris Stott said:
What are owners thoughts on suspension options?
Happy I did. It's my daily - kids, family, shopping etc. I've done 6K / year for the last two years.
Also did a 250 mile blat round Argyll, Loch Awe and Glencoe last week, at pace most of the way, and the car was a joy on the standard suspension.
Standard is fine for the real world. It's more than fine actually, it's still bonkers good.
nebpor said:
Chris, I ummed and ahhd about this last year and ended up just going for the Bilstein OEM replacement spec dampers. The rears were only 2 year old OEM anyway. Thought I was making a mistake and should have went M30/GT3 spec.
Happy I did. It's my daily - kids, family, shopping etc. I've done 6K / year for the last two years.
Also did a 250 mile blat round Argyll, Loch Awe and Glencoe last week, at pace most of the way, and the car was a joy on the standard suspension.
Standard is fine for the real world. It's more than fine actually, it's still bonkers good.
Pretty sure the standard Bilies are more expensive than the Koni options (sport/FSD).Happy I did. It's my daily - kids, family, shopping etc. I've done 6K / year for the last two years.
Also did a 250 mile blat round Argyll, Loch Awe and Glencoe last week, at pace most of the way, and the car was a joy on the standard suspension.
Standard is fine for the real world. It's more than fine actually, it's still bonkers good.
Fast Bug said:
Chris,
Mine has H&R cup springs and koni adjustable dampers all round. It rides pretty well, my wife doesn't complain about it being harsh when she's in it so that's a pretty good test. Although the kids call it the bumpy blue car, but they don't know anything about these things
Not sure the Koni 'sport kit' or FSD's are adjustable, but I'll probably go with the H&R springs (-30).Mine has H&R cup springs and koni adjustable dampers all round. It rides pretty well, my wife doesn't complain about it being harsh when she's in it so that's a pretty good test. Although the kids call it the bumpy blue car, but they don't know anything about these things
Plan is to do suspension and finally get the AC working again when I get my bonus in September.
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