what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
ATM said:
I think 33 is a bit punchy. I think it would fly out at 25. So perhaps somewhere in between is about right. But to be fair they may as well try they're luck at 33 and see what happens.
Yeah I think 33 is optimistic as well...anyway, if I bought it, I'd likely remove the Porsche side decals, and change the wheels...maybe for Fuchs..Brilliant weekend spent chasing rattles and re-fixing fasteners. 3 x broken clips fixed, and the debris all removed, and the rattles and whistle at 40mph+ has now gone. Really impressed by how easily the interior comes apart/goes back together again.
I have packed the C pillars and the panel behind the rear seats with some hydro-phobic (right word?) insulation left over from my camper build, which seems to have damped a lot of the creaks and rattles.
Also wrapped the under-dash plastic heater tubes in fabric (a trimmed down old black t shirt!), which has stopped vibration and rattling against the service book clip under the column.
Feels like a transformed car in terms of NVH, and well worth the hour or so of effort.
I have packed the C pillars and the panel behind the rear seats with some hydro-phobic (right word?) insulation left over from my camper build, which seems to have damped a lot of the creaks and rattles.
Also wrapped the under-dash plastic heater tubes in fabric (a trimmed down old black t shirt!), which has stopped vibration and rattling against the service book clip under the column.
Feels like a transformed car in terms of NVH, and well worth the hour or so of effort.
OpulentBob said:
Brilliant weekend spent chasing rattles and re-fixing fasteners. 3 x broken clips fixed, and the debris all removed, and the rattles and whistle at 40mph+ has now gone. Really impressed by how easily the interior comes apart/goes back together again.
I have packed the C pillars and the panel behind the rear seats with some hydro-phobic (right word?) insulation left over from my camper build, which seems to have damped a lot of the creaks and rattles.
Also wrapped the under-dash plastic heater tubes in fabric (a trimmed down old black t shirt!), which has stopped vibration and rattling against the service book clip under the column.
Feels like a transformed car in terms of NVH, and well worth the hour or so of effort.
Any pics of the work. I would like to do this as well...I have packed the C pillars and the panel behind the rear seats with some hydro-phobic (right word?) insulation left over from my camper build, which seems to have damped a lot of the creaks and rattles.
Also wrapped the under-dash plastic heater tubes in fabric (a trimmed down old black t shirt!), which has stopped vibration and rattling against the service book clip under the column.
Feels like a transformed car in terms of NVH, and well worth the hour or so of effort.
chappardababbar said:
OpulentBob said:
Brilliant weekend spent chasing rattles and re-fixing fasteners. 3 x broken clips fixed, and the debris all removed, and the rattles and whistle at 40mph+ has now gone. Really impressed by how easily the interior comes apart/goes back together again.
I have packed the C pillars and the panel behind the rear seats with some hydro-phobic (right word?) insulation left over from my camper build, which seems to have damped a lot of the creaks and rattles.
Also wrapped the under-dash plastic heater tubes in fabric (a trimmed down old black t shirt!), which has stopped vibration and rattling against the service book clip under the column.
Feels like a transformed car in terms of NVH, and well worth the hour or so of effort.
Any pics of the work. I would like to do this as well...I have packed the C pillars and the panel behind the rear seats with some hydro-phobic (right word?) insulation left over from my camper build, which seems to have damped a lot of the creaks and rattles.
Also wrapped the under-dash plastic heater tubes in fabric (a trimmed down old black t shirt!), which has stopped vibration and rattling against the service book clip under the column.
Feels like a transformed car in terms of NVH, and well worth the hour or so of effort.
The insulation was this sort of stuff:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Transporter-Camper-Floor-...
But I took off the C pillar trims (easy enough with plastic trim removal tools, a screwdriver and a 13mm) and the rear panel I pulled the foam apart a bit and tucked all around the inside of the panels (I made sure the clips were free) and knocked it all back on. The under-dash pipes, dismantle according to the service manual and literally cut the back off a t-shirt, wrap around the plastic pipe, one layer is enough, and double sided tape it in place. It's hard to describe but get your head on the floor looking up under the dash directly under the steering wheel and you will see exatly what I mean!
Although every rattle solved just reveals another one from somewhere else...
EarlOfHazard said:
ATM said:
I think 33 is a bit punchy. I think it would fly out at 25. So perhaps somewhere in between is about right. But to be fair they may as well try they're luck at 33 and see what happens.
Yeah I think 33 is optimistic as well...anyway, if I bought it, I'd likely remove the Porsche side decals, and change the wheels...maybe for Fuchs..Full belt and braces Hartech oversized build must be what, circa £15k inc. vodka and tonic? With things like these, it'll never add £15k worth of value, but 50% of that, say £8k wouldn't be unreasonable.
Afraid I also find £33k rather optimistic. I'm not even sure why I feel that way as I've often defended the price of some of the CSR cars, which don't come with the added value of a Hartech capacity increase engine.
My car was just under £15k 2 years ago and currently has just over 80k on it. If I thought I'd add £15k to the value by getting a "preventative" Hartech rebuild now then I'd be straight on the phone to book it in. In reality I think I'd be lucky if it added £4k.
My car was just under £15k 2 years ago and currently has just over 80k on it. If I thought I'd add £15k to the value by getting a "preventative" Hartech rebuild now then I'd be straight on the phone to book it in. In reality I think I'd be lucky if it added £4k.
A low down rattle type noise at idle - sump pulled and full of plastic shrapnel with a tiny bit of steel ( eventually identified as being from minor scoring to a crank thrust bearing not getting proper oil flow due to plastic debris) so the motor had to be torn down. I was relieved no major damage was found- but the plastic ( from a dead chain guide ) is nasty and had gone everywhere. The bores were pristine ( 100k miles ) but one had a nasty scrape.... probably from plastic shards.
A cheaper fix was possible. But I really don’t want to do this again .... so all the while we are in there items are getting done.
Should I have gone for a capacity increase to 3.7? Perhaps, but I quite like the 3.4 and having to peddle it along in the right bit of the Rev range - not sure I wanted a load of extra torque. Anyway it is more money & this is costing quite enough!
A cheaper fix was possible. But I really don’t want to do this again .... so all the while we are in there items are getting done.
Should I have gone for a capacity increase to 3.7? Perhaps, but I quite like the 3.4 and having to peddle it along in the right bit of the Rev range - not sure I wanted a load of extra torque. Anyway it is more money & this is costing quite enough!
Sounds like a good plan. On the plus side - regarding the engine in general, the crank bearing shells were in passable shape, certainly showing some miles, but not threatening to go through to the copper imminently. Original ims bearing ( single row / 2001 car ) was in perfect shape. But yes, failed chain guides can be a serious. Perhaps at this age and miles ithe odds that something causes an internal issue are getting pretty short. But the heads were fine ( checked, skimmed & overhauled anyway ) and the combustion zone of the engine looked good & seemed to have been burning fuel evenly and pretty cleanly.
gizlaroc said:
Got to be worth £30k all day long.
That is the sort of car that now will always be in demand, and no matter what else needs doing to it you would never worry about that cost being lost.
Nah, thats 997.2 money. That is the sort of car that now will always be in demand, and no matter what else needs doing to it you would never worry about that cost being lost.
You'd have to really love the 996 platform to spend that sort of money on one.
rival38 said:
Sounds like a good plan. On the plus side - regarding the engine in general, the crank bearing shells were in passable shape, certainly showing some miles, but not threatening to go through to the copper imminently. Original ims bearing ( single row / 2001 car ) was in perfect shape. But yes, failed chain guides can be a serious. Perhaps at this age and miles ithe odds that something causes an internal issue are getting pretty short. But the heads were fine ( checked, skimmed & overhauled anyway ) and the combustion zone of the engine looked good & seemed to have been burning fuel evenly and pretty cleanly.
Rival, what work did you get done?Have gathered at least 3 liners (am guessing all 6, semi-closed deck), IMS/B, chain guides (and guessing chains), and top-end refresh. What else, and would you mind sharing what sort of ball park this set you back from Hartech?
Understand the engine (at least the bottom end) - not the car - was sent to them.
Chain guides are my main concern over anything else.
bgunn said:
Scho said:
Nah, thats 997.2 money.
You'd have to really love the 996 platform to spend that sort of money on one.
A 997 is essentially a 996 in a posh frock, so that's a moderately amusing statement...You'd have to really love the 996 platform to spend that sort of money on one.
I will admit I don't know much about the rear setup on these cars. I wrongly assumed recently that it is similar to the 986 setup as I've spent time tinkering with my 981 but never with the 996. Then I saw this pic of a 997 rear end and the penny dropped.
New found love now looking at that beefy rear end. Boxsters really are hair dressers cars.
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