what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
)ATM said:
Does anyone know if you can fit say a 3.6 crank to a 3.4 engine?
Yes (with conrods) and you'll end up with a 3.6 engine, the bores are the same.ATM said:
Therefore I'm assuming all the Hartech larger capacity mods are just bigger pistons and use the original crank and rods unchanged, right?
Hartech 3.2 and 3.4 to 3.7 is bore and piston changes. As is 3.6 to 3.9. To go from 3.4 to 3.9 you need to change the crank from the 3.4 to the 3.6 (with conrods).ATM said:
Also I see the 3.2 Boxster engine can be enlarged by Hartech to 3.7 so I'm assuming it uses the same crank as the 3.4 or do they fit a 3.4 crank to the 3.2 engine to get it to 3.7?
The stroke on the 3.2 and 3.4 crank is the same - I don't actually know if they are same crank though. This is the sweet spot for me though, the greatest change at a lower cost. I'd love a 3.7 boxster.Flew in to the Uk late Friday night and have been out and about in the car over the weekend before driving 1.5hrs from Essex to Surrey this morning to get it MOT’d - I trust my old Indy and I don’t have to worry about the tiny stick on front late or Non airbagged wheel.
Mileage is now 189,000, and it’s driving as well as even - pulls cleanly from low down, no strange noises, suspension and steering sweet.
But it’s got a few things that really need sorting… Both door handles are sticking badly, the wheels need a refurb, it’s got some rust showing on the NE front arch, and my darling wife has managed to smash the OS door mirror housing and glass.
Will try and get the door handles and mirror sorted across this week, but I’m going to have to find somewhere to sort the rust before I becomes a bigger problem.
Hoping for a clean ticket later today!
Mileage is now 189,000, and it’s driving as well as even - pulls cleanly from low down, no strange noises, suspension and steering sweet.
But it’s got a few things that really need sorting… Both door handles are sticking badly, the wheels need a refurb, it’s got some rust showing on the NE front arch, and my darling wife has managed to smash the OS door mirror housing and glass.
Will try and get the door handles and mirror sorted across this week, but I’m going to have to find somewhere to sort the rust before I becomes a bigger problem.
Hoping for a clean ticket later today!
Chris Stott said:
Flew in to the Uk late Friday night and have been out and about in the car over the weekend before driving 1.5hrs from Essex to Surrey this morning to get it MOT’d - I trust my old Indy and I don’t have to worry about the tiny stick on front late or Non airbagged wheel.
Mileage is now 189,000, and it’s driving as well as even - pulls cleanly from low down, no strange noises, suspension and steering sweet.
But it’s got a few things that really need sorting… Both door handles are sticking badly, the wheels need a refurb, it’s got some rust showing on the NE front arch, and my darling wife has managed to smash the OS door mirror housing and glass.
Will try and get the door handles and mirror sorted across this week, but I’m going to have to find somewhere to sort the rust before I becomes a bigger problem.
Hoping for a clean ticket later today!
Front wing rust isn't a big deal as the whole wing can be changed fairly easily and it won't cost a fortune. It would be more cost effective to do this than have someone cut out the rust and fabricate a section.Mileage is now 189,000, and it’s driving as well as even - pulls cleanly from low down, no strange noises, suspension and steering sweet.
But it’s got a few things that really need sorting… Both door handles are sticking badly, the wheels need a refurb, it’s got some rust showing on the NE front arch, and my darling wife has managed to smash the OS door mirror housing and glass.
Will try and get the door handles and mirror sorted across this week, but I’m going to have to find somewhere to sort the rust before I becomes a bigger problem.
Hoping for a clean ticket later today!
With the rears it makes more sense to find someone that can fabricate and weld in sections as a whole new panel is a massive job to weld in and the panels cost close to £2k a side.
So be thankful it's only your fronts.
Only my NS front as far as I know, but I’ll be checking my rears this week.
I’m going to have to find somewhere that can do some work on it as I got advisories for corrosion on both OS & NS front suspension mountings… apparently not serious at the moment, but obviously needs sorting before it gets serious!
Otherwise just a. Few odds and ends called out which I can sort this week.
I’m going to have to find somewhere that can do some work on it as I got advisories for corrosion on both OS & NS front suspension mountings… apparently not serious at the moment, but obviously needs sorting before it gets serious!
Otherwise just a. Few odds and ends called out which I can sort this week.
Baked_bean said:
It would appear that the 996 is starting to suffer from rust. Never been mentioned in the past in buying guides etc. but I think due to age they are starting to go in places.
Agreed.Although, the eldest are 24 years old almost, so it’s a fair innings.
Rust on the wings, leading edge of the sills and as another poster mentioned, at a particular join between the front wheels seem to be common themes.
I'm not a professional in this area but do consider myself an obsessive amateur that has become well versed in rust issues since owning and restoring many MX5s and a few old French and Italian cars.
People blame build up of mud and grime behind this and the arch liner for this but If you look at how Porsche fixed this spat thingy it makes sense. For some reason the top fixing is a metal bracket screwed through the double sheeted return of the sill. SO that's a metal self tapper screw put through 2 spot welded galvanised panels. Perfect way to let moisture in to the largely unprotected rear of this area. They also use speed nuts on the bottom fixings of this which rub through the paint where it opens to the inside of the sill.
• The return of the rear wheel arch near the rear bumper.
Again in their infinite wisdom Porsche fixed the rear bumper on to the metal body work using a speed nut. So you've got this mild steel clip with a mild steel screw going through it potentially running on the inside lip of the rear wing. The first most would know about it is when they start noticing bubbling on the rear edge of the arch.
• Front suspension mounting areas up around the top mounts from inside the wheel arch.
For some unknown reason Porsche only covered half way up the front inside wheel arches with underseal.
• Underneath the car just behind the front subframe rear most mounting points.
This area is a box section that is triple skinned. I initially thought water got in here and it rusted inside out but from seeing photos of a few and looking at my own it seems the water just gets under the underseal. It's worth checking and getting it sorted as if it gets bad it's the sort of thing that could render the car beyond economic repair.
• Door latch on the B pillar
Think everyone knows this one. Just caused by the latch rubbing. can be easily fixed by a body shop and there's now a rubber gasket (Audi part no) that can be fitted to stop it happening
• Front wings and sills
This is fairly uncomplicated. The wings are single skinned so easy to check and the sills don't have any daft attachments plus the foremost return is simple. any rust is probably from the surface.
There's probably loads of other bits I've not found yet. One indie did tell me that the engine bays were often shocking as they aren't well protected and are exposed to all sorts of road grime, water and constant heat cycles. The GT3 and turbos have the same issues. If you monitor them, especially the ones around the subframe your car shouldn't ever be killed by rust.
Take comfort in the fact the 997 is worse, Porsche really cut back the underseal budget on those things.
- The jacking points seem to suffer from rust as it's the first place the underseal becomes broken through cack handed jack and lift use. I've seen photos of a few where the steel around the rear jacking point has gone. Not really sure how that happens, possibly related to the next one...
People blame build up of mud and grime behind this and the arch liner for this but If you look at how Porsche fixed this spat thingy it makes sense. For some reason the top fixing is a metal bracket screwed through the double sheeted return of the sill. SO that's a metal self tapper screw put through 2 spot welded galvanised panels. Perfect way to let moisture in to the largely unprotected rear of this area. They also use speed nuts on the bottom fixings of this which rub through the paint where it opens to the inside of the sill.
• The return of the rear wheel arch near the rear bumper.
Again in their infinite wisdom Porsche fixed the rear bumper on to the metal body work using a speed nut. So you've got this mild steel clip with a mild steel screw going through it potentially running on the inside lip of the rear wing. The first most would know about it is when they start noticing bubbling on the rear edge of the arch.
• Front suspension mounting areas up around the top mounts from inside the wheel arch.
For some unknown reason Porsche only covered half way up the front inside wheel arches with underseal.
• Underneath the car just behind the front subframe rear most mounting points.
This area is a box section that is triple skinned. I initially thought water got in here and it rusted inside out but from seeing photos of a few and looking at my own it seems the water just gets under the underseal. It's worth checking and getting it sorted as if it gets bad it's the sort of thing that could render the car beyond economic repair.
• Door latch on the B pillar
Think everyone knows this one. Just caused by the latch rubbing. can be easily fixed by a body shop and there's now a rubber gasket (Audi part no) that can be fitted to stop it happening
• Front wings and sills
This is fairly uncomplicated. The wings are single skinned so easy to check and the sills don't have any daft attachments plus the foremost return is simple. any rust is probably from the surface.
There's probably loads of other bits I've not found yet. One indie did tell me that the engine bays were often shocking as they aren't well protected and are exposed to all sorts of road grime, water and constant heat cycles. The GT3 and turbos have the same issues. If you monitor them, especially the ones around the subframe your car shouldn't ever be killed by rust.
Take comfort in the fact the 997 is worse, Porsche really cut back the underseal budget on those things.
Chris Stott said:
Flew in to the Uk late Friday night and have been out and about in the car over the weekend before driving 1.5hrs from Essex to Surrey this morning to get it MOT’d - I trust my old Indy and I don’t have to worry about the tiny stick on front late or Non airbagged wheel.
Mileage is now 189,000, and it’s driving as well as even - pulls cleanly from low down, no strange noises, suspension and steering sweet.
But it’s got a few things that really need sorting… Both door handles are sticking badly, the wheels need a refurb, it’s got some rust showing on the NE front arch, and my darling wife has managed to smash the OS door mirror housing and glass.
Will try and get the door handles and mirror sorted across this week, but I’m going to have to find somewhere to sort the rust before I becomes a bigger problem.
Hoping for a clean ticket later today!
Chris, the bodyshop that GT One use would be worth talking to. They did a repaint from the screen forward on my car and the work was really good (much better than the people RPM use, incidentally), for an exceptionally good price. I can't vouch for their work on rust as there was none to repair (not on that bit of the car anyway !), but the paintwork was excellent.Mileage is now 189,000, and it’s driving as well as even - pulls cleanly from low down, no strange noises, suspension and steering sweet.
But it’s got a few things that really need sorting… Both door handles are sticking badly, the wheels need a refurb, it’s got some rust showing on the NE front arch, and my darling wife has managed to smash the OS door mirror housing and glass.
Will try and get the door handles and mirror sorted across this week, but I’m going to have to find somewhere to sort the rust before I becomes a bigger problem.
Hoping for a clean ticket later today!
Jamie
ATM said:
Ducktail question
The latest CSR on Collecting Cars shows it has the rubber boot for the airbox feed but I think mine is missing this. Does everyone else with ducktails have this in situ on theirs?
Also I have no strut to keep it open. What do you boys have on yours?
Mine is as per the Vesuvius car with rubber boot and strut.The latest CSR on Collecting Cars shows it has the rubber boot for the airbox feed but I think mine is missing this. Does everyone else with ducktails have this in situ on theirs?
Also I have no strut to keep it open. What do you boys have on yours?
Jamie Summers said:
Chris, the bodyshop that GT One use would be worth talking to. They did a repaint from the screen forward on my car and the work was really good (much better than the people RPM use, incidentally), for an exceptionally good price. I can't vouch for their work on rust as there was none to repair (not on that bit of the car anyway !), but the paintwork was excellent.
Jamie
Thanks jamie… they quoted for a front end paint a coupe of years ago and it was very expensive in relation to the value of my car. I think you got a particularly good price because they were doing a lot of work on your car at the time. Jamie
I’ve found someone local to me here in Essex who’s going to have a look at it tomorrow.
Ordered a complete door mirror in Arctic silver from Douglas Valley yesterday. Turned up today… absolutely perfect condition. Chuffed for the money. Going to have to buy a torx driver to fit it. Porsche obsession with torx screws is irritating.
Chris Stott said:
I’ve found someone local to me here in Essex who’s going to have a look at it tomorrow.
If you end up wanting another quote for the work, on the back of a number of personal recommendations, a few years ago I used https://smartautomotive.co/ for a full respray including dealing with quite a lot of rust and resulting fabrication. They did a fantastic job and may not be a million miles from you (they are near Dunstable). The owner, Steve Archer, is a great bloke too.BillyB said:
Chris Stott said:
I’ve found someone local to me here in Essex who’s going to have a look at it tomorrow.
If you end up wanting another quote for the work, on the back of a number of personal recommendations, a few years ago I used https://smartautomotive.co/ for a full respray including dealing with quite a lot of rust and resulting fabrication. They did a fantastic job and may not be a million miles from you (they are near Dunstable). The owner, Steve Archer, is a great bloke too.
Fast Bug said:
BillyB said:
Chris Stott said:
I’ve found someone local to me here in Essex who’s going to have a look at it tomorrow.
If you end up wanting another quote for the work, on the back of a number of personal recommendations, a few years ago I used https://smartautomotive.co/ for a full respray including dealing with quite a lot of rust and resulting fabrication. They did a fantastic job and may not be a million miles from you (they are near Dunstable). The owner, Steve Archer, is a great bloke too.(Steve works on all sorts of surprising stuff. He does/did all the local Aston Martin dealership's body work, did the front end of my friend's 458 and while my car was there he was doing a full, bare shell restoration of a mk1 Escort.)
BillyB said:
If you end up wanting another quote for the work, on the back of a number of personal recommendations, a few years ago I used https://smartautomotive.co/ for a full respray including dealing with quite a lot of rust and resulting fabrication. They did a fantastic job and may not be a million miles from you (they are near Dunstable). The owner, Steve Archer, is a great bloke too.
Thanks, but I’m nr Colchester, so a bit out of the way. I’ve fixed a few bits over the last 2 days… replaced a blown headlamp bulb & a number plate light, replaced the drivers side door mirror (complete housing as it was smashed), given it a wash and tidied out the inside… looks a bit better now.
Had a look at the rear arches and the back of the sills… looks like there’s some early signs of corrosion.
Dropped my wife off at her sisters in Chelmsford this morning and came back via some fantastic back roads… mainly 3rd gear stuff with a few runs in to 4th and some 2nd gear exits that were properly fun with no traction control (PSM/abs lights are coming on intermittently, so that’s something else I need to look at)… reminded me just how good 996’s are when driven at pace on these sort of roads
BillyB said:
Fast Bug said:
BillyB said:
Chris Stott said:
I’ve found someone local to me here in Essex who’s going to have a look at it tomorrow.
If you end up wanting another quote for the work, on the back of a number of personal recommendations, a few years ago I used https://smartautomotive.co/ for a full respray including dealing with quite a lot of rust and resulting fabrication. They did a fantastic job and may not be a million miles from you (they are near Dunstable). The owner, Steve Archer, is a great bloke too.(Steve works on all sorts of surprising stuff. He does/did all the local Aston Martin dealership's body work, did the front end of my friend's 458 and while my car was there he was doing a full, bare shell restoration of a mk1 Escort.)
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