what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
It's the same debate we all keep having. Keep these cars going on a shoe string and they can still give pleasure. That blue car also needs both window regulators.
If you are new to this thread and hankering after a cheap 996 then learn from my mistake. I bought a cheaper one. It started smoking and when I took it to my chosen porsche specialist they said the PAS pipe was leaking fluid onto the engine or exhaust or somewhere hot. They also came back with a long lots of recommendations which I agreed to. In summary they changed most pipes and tubes on the car so coolant, PAS, rigid brake lines running the full length of the car and the clutch fluid pipe. That little lot came to just over 2 grand. They didn't touch AC - which has never worked.
So that's just pipes and tubes. Before you even start talking about everything else to look out for.
I'm definitely in the 'there is no such thing as a cheap Porsche' camp now.
If you are new to this thread and hankering after a cheap 996 then learn from my mistake. I bought a cheaper one. It started smoking and when I took it to my chosen porsche specialist they said the PAS pipe was leaking fluid onto the engine or exhaust or somewhere hot. They also came back with a long lots of recommendations which I agreed to. In summary they changed most pipes and tubes on the car so coolant, PAS, rigid brake lines running the full length of the car and the clutch fluid pipe. That little lot came to just over 2 grand. They didn't touch AC - which has never worked.
So that's just pipes and tubes. Before you even start talking about everything else to look out for.
I'm definitely in the 'there is no such thing as a cheap Porsche' camp now.
I’ve just ticked over spending £3.5k on mine in 3 years/15k miles and that includes servicing, renewing suspension arms all round, new rear dampers, 8 tyres, rear brakes, MOT’s, alignments and sundries that I’ve done to restore a few bits and pieces. All spannering done by myself but could see that costs spiralling very quickly if someone else is doing the work.
I didn’t want a black one when I was looking but it had a lot of big ticket items(brake lines, new front struts w top mounts etc.) done by previous owners so it’s just a case of knowing what costs a lot and if it’s previously been done.
I didn’t want a black one when I was looking but it had a lot of big ticket items(brake lines, new front struts w top mounts etc.) done by previous owners so it’s just a case of knowing what costs a lot and if it’s previously been done.
After tube gate mine needed a replacement gearbox which set me back about 3 grand all in. They I've just done DIY oil changes and the Window Regulators. Not much else.
I did get all excited a few weeks ago and ordered all new Pagid discs, Bremdo pads, a new master cylinder and also the clutch master cylinder. Currently all sat gathering dust in the house.
I may as well order a decent bleeding type device. Anyone got any recommendations?
I did get all excited a few weeks ago and ordered all new Pagid discs, Bremdo pads, a new master cylinder and also the clutch master cylinder. Currently all sat gathering dust in the house.
I may as well order a decent bleeding type device. Anyone got any recommendations?
ATM said:
After tube gate mine needed a replacement gearbox which set me back about 3 grand all in. They I've just done DIY oil changes and the Window Regulators. Not much else.
I did get all excited a few weeks ago and ordered all new Pagid discs, Bremdo pads, a new master cylinder and also the clutch master cylinder. Currently all sat gathering dust in the house.
I may as well order a decent bleeding type device. Anyone got any recommendations?
Gunson Eazibleed works from air in a tyre so doesn’t require a compressor etc. They only last 2-3 years before the Blake fluids kills them but work well until they don’t. I did get all excited a few weeks ago and ordered all new Pagid discs, Bremdo pads, a new master cylinder and also the clutch master cylinder. Currently all sat gathering dust in the house.
I may as well order a decent bleeding type device. Anyone got any recommendations?
julian987R said:
ATM said:
A non grey 996 interior, its a miracle. I don't particularly like the faux glitter on the black plastics for the early cars. But the red is bang on and works well with resale silver.
Slippydiff said:
SidewaysSi said:
I had my car refreshed by CG - it is/was a 45k miler on M030 and I found it way too stiff for the road. It was suggested the M030 suspension needs 100k miles + to soften up..!
We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
100K miles for the M030 set up to mellow ?? Obviously better suited to Germany’s Autobahns and A/B roads.We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
So you’re now running standard OE C2 springs, Koni Special Active Dampers and M030 ARB’s front and rear ?
Yep that's my setup and I think it's very good. Coming from Loti and Caterhams, the only issue is the steering isn't as communicative as I want. CG did all they could with the geo and I have had it also looked at by RPM Technik who couldn't do anything more either.
The trade off for better steering is going to be a tougher ride so I have left it as is.
SidewaysSi said:
Slippydiff said:
SidewaysSi said:
I had my car refreshed by CG - it is/was a 45k miler on M030 and I found it way too stiff for the road. It was suggested the M030 suspension needs 100k miles + to soften up..!
We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
100K miles for the M030 set up to mellow ?? Obviously better suited to Germany’s Autobahns and A/B roads.We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
So you’re now running standard OE C2 springs, Koni Special Active Dampers and M030 ARB’s front and rear ?
Yep that's my setup and I think it's very good. Coming from Loti and Caterhams, the only issue is the steering isn't as communicative as I want. CG did all they could with the geo and I have had it also looked at by RPM Technik who couldn't do anything more either.
The trade off for better steering is going to be a tougher ride so I have left it as is.
ATM said:
SidewaysSi said:
Slippydiff said:
SidewaysSi said:
I had my car refreshed by CG - it is/was a 45k miler on M030 and I found it way too stiff for the road. It was suggested the M030 suspension needs 100k miles + to soften up..!
We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
100K miles for the M030 set up to mellow ?? Obviously better suited to Germany’s Autobahns and A/B roads.We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
So you’re now running standard OE C2 springs, Koni Special Active Dampers and M030 ARB’s front and rear ?
Yep that's my setup and I think it's very good. Coming from Loti and Caterhams, the only issue is the steering isn't as communicative as I want. CG did all they could with the geo and I have had it also looked at by RPM Technik who couldn't do anything more either.
The trade off for better steering is going to be a tougher ride so I have left it as is.
The M030 was just too harsh and took the shine off the car for me. Very happy with the choice overall.
SidewaysSi said:
ATM said:
SidewaysSi said:
Slippydiff said:
SidewaysSi said:
I had my car refreshed by CG - it is/was a 45k miler on M030 and I found it way too stiff for the road. It was suggested the M030 suspension needs 100k miles + to soften up..!
We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
100K miles for the M030 set up to mellow ?? Obviously better suited to Germany’s Autobahns and A/B roads.We went for Koni Special Actives which are designed to work with the standard springs so took off the M030 stuff but kept the M030 ARBs.
It's a lovely road setup IMO - not too soft so has good body control but more than comfortable to mop up the worst of the road imperfections so the car flows across the road and inevitably is far quicker than before.
So you’re now running standard OE C2 springs, Koni Special Active Dampers and M030 ARB’s front and rear ?
Yep that's my setup and I think it's very good. Coming from Loti and Caterhams, the only issue is the steering isn't as communicative as I want. CG did all they could with the geo and I have had it also looked at by RPM Technik who couldn't do anything more either.
The trade off for better steering is going to be a tougher ride so I have left it as is.
The M030 was just too harsh and took the shine off the car for me. Very happy with the choice overall.
17 inch 205 fronts really really do feel so very different.
Just got back from a 60 mile loop.
I've always wondered if I overpaid for mine, 30 months ago, 120k, T reg, £17.5k, but I absolutely didn't want a "project". Had just sold an unfinished 200SX, that I had to give up on, due to a knackered back. Think I got a bargain now.
Mine came with new, EPS IMS, RMS, clutch, MAF, new M030 suspension, top mounts, bump stops, 2 x lower arms. poly g'box mount, RSS engine mounts, all new Brembo disks and pads and braided lines. Also had just been fitted with a 2nd hand "Dansk" exhaust.
In 10k, just out for a blast miles it's needed a new water pump, reverse light switch and a coil pack. Which I think are just 20yr/120k car problems. Both exhausts sheared which is disappointing and that would have been pretty much £1k if I couldn't weld 2 new flexis in.
I'm definitely in the "Buy a finished car" camp now after too many years of projects. So much "while your in there" chance to spend a hell of a lot of money.
Agree on the M030 being a bit much, as with all suspension a lot depends on the tyre pressures. I can't make my mind up between 29 (grip) and 31 (feel), each change seems to feel better. Will definitely look at something more sophisticated when the time comes. I like the don't have to care ride height, but they do look bloody good lowered.
I've always wondered if I overpaid for mine, 30 months ago, 120k, T reg, £17.5k, but I absolutely didn't want a "project". Had just sold an unfinished 200SX, that I had to give up on, due to a knackered back. Think I got a bargain now.
Mine came with new, EPS IMS, RMS, clutch, MAF, new M030 suspension, top mounts, bump stops, 2 x lower arms. poly g'box mount, RSS engine mounts, all new Brembo disks and pads and braided lines. Also had just been fitted with a 2nd hand "Dansk" exhaust.
In 10k, just out for a blast miles it's needed a new water pump, reverse light switch and a coil pack. Which I think are just 20yr/120k car problems. Both exhausts sheared which is disappointing and that would have been pretty much £1k if I couldn't weld 2 new flexis in.
I'm definitely in the "Buy a finished car" camp now after too many years of projects. So much "while your in there" chance to spend a hell of a lot of money.
Agree on the M030 being a bit much, as with all suspension a lot depends on the tyre pressures. I can't make my mind up between 29 (grip) and 31 (feel), each change seems to feel better. Will definitely look at something more sophisticated when the time comes. I like the don't have to care ride height, but they do look bloody good lowered.
ATM said:
That’s FGP money aka retail levels 
Only the few who’ve bought from the likes of FGP at £25k plus asking prices (& FGP) know truly how much they’ve paid - I think it’s a very small market place for cars of this nature.MrC986 said:
ATM said:
That’s FGP money aka retail levels Only the few who’ve bought from the likes of FGP at £25k plus asking prices (& FGP) know truly how much they’ve paid - I think it’s a very small market place for cars of this nature.When I bought my early car in 2017 there were very few for sale. I think that might have been because prices were lower so less people were willing to sell. I now have 2 x 996 and I'm struggling with the decision to sell my tatty one or hold onto it. I don't see the point of giving it away for cheap so why even sell it at all?
The lower end of the market has definitely risen. Lots of people keep talking about waiting for prices to come back down again but what if they don't. What if these higher prices are here to stay. Perhaps some of the froth in average cars will soften but early 996 cars which are in short supply - maybe not. The 997 was produced in big numbers and 997 prices do hold 996 prices but we can see some 996 cars priced above average 997 cars. I'd like a 997 but would I prefer one to the 996 - No.
I think in a few years as more and more tatty 996 cars die off and tatty 997 cars start to die off the really nice early 996 cars will start to command a premium. Where decisive buyers who know they want an early 996 over a 996.2 and a 997.1 or even 997.2 will be chasing fewer and fewer cars.
My 1998 car is now 24 years old. In a few years it will be 27. Then we'll be thinking about 30 years old in the not too distant future. An early 997 is 6 years newer. I think the story for these early cars is just starting but yes I am a fan boy, hopefully that's obvious.
Ok maybe I'm not a boy anymore.
ATM said:
ATM said:
Now £11,311.11Gassing Station | 911/Carrera GT | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff