what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
Some advice required chaps.
I am going off for a month so I better put the trickle charge on the 996 but I remember being told to "latch" the bonnet other wise all I am doing is trickle charging the frunk light.
I have forgot what to do so the bonnet stays locked, any instructions welcome
I am going off for a month so I better put the trickle charge on the 996 but I remember being told to "latch" the bonnet other wise all I am doing is trickle charging the frunk light.
I have forgot what to do so the bonnet stays locked, any instructions welcome
jonny996 said:
Some advice required chaps.
I am going off for a month so I better put the trickle charge on the 996 but I remember being told to "latch" the bonnet other wise all I am doing is trickle charging the frunk light.
I have forgot what to do so the bonnet stays locked, any instructions welcome
Just take out the frunk light.I am going off for a month so I better put the trickle charge on the 996 but I remember being told to "latch" the bonnet other wise all I am doing is trickle charging the frunk light.
I have forgot what to do so the bonnet stays locked, any instructions welcome
BrotherMouzone said:
jonny996 said:
Some advice required chaps.
I am going off for a month so I better put the trickle charge on the 996 but I remember being told to "latch" the bonnet other wise all I am doing is trickle charging the frunk light.
I have forgot what to do so the bonnet stays locked, any instructions welcome
Just take out the frunk light.I am going off for a month so I better put the trickle charge on the 996 but I remember being told to "latch" the bonnet other wise all I am doing is trickle charging the frunk light.
I have forgot what to do so the bonnet stays locked, any instructions welcome
A link to Readers Cars thread for any 996 aficionados who haven't seen yet:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Well my car has been a mare lately.
I've recently discovered:
A hole in the A/C pipe under the drivers' door/sill, topped it up with refrigerant and it was empty within 5 minutes. Not unfixable but frustrating.
Both rear jacking points collapsed with rust. (Very upsetting and hopefully not a sign of more terminal issues)
Both rear brake disc dust shields rusted through and rattling over every single bump. Again, frustrating, and quite a lot of work to replace (remove the calipers etc).
But, 155k miles and 24 years old, lives outside and used daily so maybe not surprising, but still some £££ needed to be spent.
I've recently discovered:
A hole in the A/C pipe under the drivers' door/sill, topped it up with refrigerant and it was empty within 5 minutes. Not unfixable but frustrating.
Both rear jacking points collapsed with rust. (Very upsetting and hopefully not a sign of more terminal issues)
Both rear brake disc dust shields rusted through and rattling over every single bump. Again, frustrating, and quite a lot of work to replace (remove the calipers etc).
But, 155k miles and 24 years old, lives outside and used daily so maybe not surprising, but still some £££ needed to be spent.
nebpor said:
Need some rusty looking bits sorted - am I right in assuming you were happy with the place next to Cappilow??
I'd give it an 8 or 9/10. The welding and the paint match/finish is spot on. It's just some of the little finishing touches that needed putting right ie little bit of over spray, some screws/bolts missing in a few unimportant places. I'd definitely use him again as his work is the best I've seen around here. You will probably have a long wait though.Chris Stott said:
A page or 2 back you’ll see a fairly big post I made on rust treatment on my ‘00 with 200k miles.
Rear of the sills, front chassis legs and brake pipes are the vulnerable areas… along with front and rear arches.
Unlikely anything will be terminal.
Thank you, I've searched out your post - that's reassuring. Also, 200k miles. Good going! Rear of the sills, front chassis legs and brake pipes are the vulnerable areas… along with front and rear arches.
Unlikely anything will be terminal.
nunpuncher said:
I'd give it an 8 or 9/10. The welding and the paint match/finish is spot on. It's just some of the little finishing touches that needed putting right ie little bit of over spray, some screws/bolts missing in a few unimportant places. I'd definitely use him again as his work is the best I've seen around here. You will probably have a long wait though.
Cheers - that's really usefulfinally found a Kwik-fit who would empty my a/c so I could fit new condensors. Super easy job, gave the rads a quick clear to too but they're only a year old so not much work required. Refill along with a new drier (original was dated 1999!) should hopefully see my a/c hold it's charge longer than a year....
shalmaneser said:
finally found a Kwik-fit who would empty my a/c so I could fit new condensors. Super easy job, gave the rads a quick clear to too but they're only a year old so not much work required. Refill along with a new drier (original was dated 1999!) should hopefully see my a/c hold it's charge longer than a year....
I suspect I'll be doing this imminently. What made you certain it was the condensers out of interest? Gad-Westy said:
shalmaneser said:
finally found a Kwik-fit who would empty my a/c so I could fit new condensors. Super easy job, gave the rads a quick clear to too but they're only a year old so not much work required. Refill along with a new drier (original was dated 1999!) should hopefully see my a/c hold it's charge longer than a year....
I suspect I'll be doing this imminently. What made you certain it was the condensers out of interest? The long pipe under the sill has a couple of dents in it but looks in good condition and no signs of oil so I was fairly convinced that was ok. That's the last weak link but would rather avoid that job!
Smollet said:
I bought my manual 996.1 with 29k on the clock 4 1/2 years ago for £23k. Sold it this weekend with 39k for what I paid for it. I must’ve spent about 10k on it but had a lot of fun.
I think I’ll now get a 986/987.
The jump from 996 to 986 S will definitely make you feel like it's a bit slower. If you go for an overtake in a 986 you find yourself thinking hang on the car isn't quite quick enough. I think I’ll now get a 986/987.
shalmaneser said:
Gad-Westy said:
shalmaneser said:
finally found a Kwik-fit who would empty my a/c so I could fit new condensors. Super easy job, gave the rads a quick clear to too but they're only a year old so not much work required. Refill along with a new drier (original was dated 1999!) should hopefully see my a/c hold it's charge longer than a year....
I suspect I'll be doing this imminently. What made you certain it was the condensers out of interest? The long pipe under the sill has a couple of dents in it but looks in good condition and no signs of oil so I was fairly convinced that was ok. That's the last weak link but would rather avoid that job!
Smollet said:
I bought my manual 996.1 with 29k on the clock 4 1/2 years ago for £23k. Sold it this weekend with 39k for what I paid for it. I must’ve spent about 10k on it but had a lot of fun.
I think I’ll now get a 986/987.
And I bought it. Very much looking forward to picking it up on Sunday 😁I think I’ll now get a 986/987.
Mikeeb said:
Smollet said:
I bought my manual 996.1 with 29k on the clock 4 1/2 years ago for £23k. Sold it this weekend with 39k for what I paid for it. I must’ve spent about 10k on it but had a lot of fun.
I think I’ll now get a 986/987.
And I bought it. Very much looking forward to picking it up on Sunday ??I think I’ll now get a 986/987.
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