what is an 'early' 3.4 996?

[roca1976]

Hi
If anyone sees a manual coupe with Nephrite green interior please can they pop a link in here, I am actively looking for another car and 996 is high on the list.
Cheers Jack

[Filibuster]

Rich_AR said:

Gone in 60 Seconds 996 for sale... errm hang on...

https://www.pcarmarket.com/auction/1978-porsche-91...

That is a very early 996 indeed

[Filibuster]

roca1976 said:

Hi
If anyone sees a manual coupe with Nephrite green interior please can they pop a link in here, I am actively looking for another car and 996 is high on the list.
Cheers Jack

whooo... another Nephrite aficionade. You Sir have good taste. Nephrite over a dark grey looks stunning on a 996!

[ATM]

Filibuster said:

roca1976 said:

Hi
If anyone sees a manual coupe with Nephrite green interior please can they pop a link in here, I am actively looking for another car and 996 is high on the list.
Cheers Jack

whooo... another Nephrite aficionade. You Sir have good taste. Nephrite over a dark grey looks stunning on a 996!

I dont think I've even seen one in the flesh, so just pics.

[roca1976]

Filibuster said:

whooo... another Nephrite aficionade. You Sir have good taste. Nephrite over a dark grey looks stunning on a 996!

yup love a bit of squashed frog!

There are quite a few Boxster red interiors up for sale at the moment which is a close second choice.

Compared to 3 years ago there seems to be a lot of nice stuff for sale, back then I had to settle for black / black gen 2 which is my least favourite combo.

[SteveStrange]

easy_rider33 said:

SteveStrange said:

Thanks Rich. So that's saying that the power feed for the backrest is 2 x red/white wires, and the seat base is 1x red/white and 1x brown?

I have the same problem with the drivers seat. The link below gives you some pointers to logically test.

My money will be a short in the seating element. Get the multimeter out and check for continuity but unplugging the connector for the base and back element.


https://youtu.be/B50wwOzhBT8

Thanks - that's what I did. One plug has continuity, the other doesn't. Realistically I don't think it's worth the £160 for the foam plus all the effort of deconstructing the seat just to have the heated seat working - I rarely ever use it anyway, I don't have any problems with getting warm in the car! - plus thinking about swapping both grey seats for black to break up the greyness a bit, and a pair of seats looks to be around £300-500 on the bay, so I may just bide my time and wait for some (without holes) to come up locally.

[ATM]

SteveStrange said:

easy_rider33 said:

SteveStrange said:

Thanks Rich. So that's saying that the power feed for the backrest is 2 x red/white wires, and the seat base is 1x red/white and 1x brown?

I have the same problem with the drivers seat. The link below gives you some pointers to logically test.

My money will be a short in the seating element. Get the multimeter out and check for continuity but unplugging the connector for the base and back element.


https://youtu.be/B50wwOzhBT8

Thanks - that's what I did. One plug has continuity, the other doesn't. Realistically I don't think it's worth the £160 for the foam plus all the effort of deconstructing the seat just to have the heated seat working - I rarely ever use it anyway, I don't have any problems with getting warm in the car! - plus thinking about swapping both grey seats for black to break up the greyness a bit, and a pair of seats looks to be around £300-500 on the bay, so I may just bide my time and wait for some (without holes) to come up locally.

Get some 9x7 seats - I like them much more.

[SteveStrange]

I had my MOT this morning, passed with flying colours, advisory for rear pads getting low, but not low enough to trigger the warning lights. Not bad for 24 years and 156k miles.

[Mariosbt]

SteveStrange said:

I had my MOT this morning, passed with flying colours, advisory for rear pads getting low, but not low enough to trigger the warning lights. Not bad for 24 years and 156k miles.

[ATM]

I'm still dreaming about my own DIY Hartech rebuild. I keep thinking about this so maybe I should take the plunge. I think I'd enjoy it. If you add up the basic prices on the Hartech website for all their goodies but exclude any rebuild work then you get to 3800 + vat if you exclude the pistons [210 each] and head refurbs [200 each]. Now that's missing some items you would need for a rebuild like gaskets and stuff. Also if you read their example rebuild price for a 997 it mentions 8200 plus vat which sort of lines up with the above. So maybe if we keep it simple their strip and rebuild service is 2500 + vat which is simply what you could save by doing this work yourself leaving 6500 ish + vat for everything else. Then that brings up the question about replacing all the pistons are reusing them. I don't think that sounds awful if you can find a cheap car which needs a rebuild and then you can think aboit extra cc while you're at it. Ripping apart a good engine to do this doesn't seem as much as a slam dunk money wise.

What do you boys think?

[Mikeeb]

ATM said:

Yup

The Recaro or OEM Porsche - no idea what they are - mounts I have now dont offer any tilt adjustment. These clearly do. So that's why I wanted them. I'll try the seats too and see which I prefer.

Will be really interested to hear how you get on with these. My back really isn’t getting on with my comfort seats. So was thinking about something like these just on the drivers side.

[ATM]

Mikeeb said:

Will be really interested to hear how you get on with these. My back really isn’t getting on with my comfort seats. So was thinking about something like these just on the drivers side.

Standard 997 / 987 seats are much better than the 996 seats I reckon and a fairly simple upgrade. Obviously proper buckets is a totally different ball game.

[nebpor]

ATM]I'm still dreaming about my own DIY Hartech rebuild. I keep thinking about this so maybe I should take the plunge. I think I'd enjoy it. If you add up the basic prices on the Hartech website for all their goodies but exclude any rebuild work then you get to 3800 + vat if you exclude the pistons [210 each] and head refurbs [200 each said:

. Now that's missing some items you would need for a rebuild like gaskets and stuff. Also if you read their example rebuild price for a 997 it mentions 8200 plus vat which sort of lines up with the above. So maybe if we keep it simple their strip and rebuild service is 2500 + vat which is simply what you could save by doing this work yourself leaving 6500 ish + vat for everything else. Then that brings up the question about replacing all the pistons are reusing them. I don't think that sounds awful if you can find a cheap car which needs a rebuild and then you can think aboit extra cc while you're at it. Ripping apart a good engine to do this doesn't seem as much as a slam dunk money wise.

What do you boys think?

I think you are mental. You are paying them for an engine you can rely on, with all their experience !

[Mikeeb]

ATM said:

Standard 997 / 987 seats are much better than the 996 seats I reckon and a fairly simple upgrade. Obviously proper buckets is a totally different ball game.

If I could find some grey 997 Sport seats so it’s still looks ‘standard’ I’d go that route. But they seem to be the proverbial Rocking Horse droppings.

So I think a drivers only bucket is the way to go. If you wanted to sell one of your SPG’s let me know.

[abucd4]

Evening all,

My Giulia is up for sale as I really fancy a 996 (maybe a 997 but I think I could get a nicer “keeper” 996 for the money).

In no rush as I’ve my defender as stop-gap if the Alfa sells quickly. Similarly I love the Alfa so no issues if it doesn’t sell.

I’m hoping to find a really good buyer guide from all the wisdom on here.

I’m thinking 996 C2/C4 (I don’t have a preference, should I? Does the 4 feel much heftier?). A nice example with the PCCM+ sounds like an appealing daily to me alongside the defender for icy days.

Ideally I want one with much of the big work done, as I’m still spending on the defender, though I appreciate this won’t be a cheap car to run. Ultimately there’s a few for sale with lots spent, so why not?

I’ve seen a few cars with cylinders 1-3 done - this just makes me think that 4-6 can’t be far behind, am I correct to think like this?
This one, for example, which I spotted on YouTube too: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-Porsche-911-996-Ca...

Other commonly seen jobs - coffin arms, track rod ends, etc - are these a case of when not if? What should I budget to have this done?

Rarely see adverts mentioning clutches, which surprises me - do these just tend to go on forever?

Rust never seems to be mentioned either but these are old cars now, where should I be looking?

What don’t I know I guess is what I’m after here - I’ve read a lot of the usual info and misinfo online over the years but it’s been a while.

I appreciate that was all a bit waffley but your wisdom is appreciated.

Dave

[Chris Stott]

What’s your budget?

C2/C4 is much less important than condition… I’d be less worried about engine on a gen 1 car (mine’s done >200k and all original), but something with a full rebuild is always nice.

They are 20 year old cars now, so pretty much everything will need replacing if not done already. Condition and maintenance are key.

[abucd4]

Chris Stott said:

What’s your budget?

C2/C4 is much less important than condition… I’d be less worried about engine on a gen 1 car (mine’s done >200k and all original), but something with a full rebuild is always nice.

They are 20 year old cars now, so pretty much everything will need replacing if not done already. Condition and maintenance are key.

Agreed - condition is absolutely everything. Budget is 15-20, mostly because the 20k ones don’t seem any better than the 15 ones, and it’d leave me 5k to chuck at whatever needed sorting. The pricing seems rather random in this bracket - lots of rubbish for 20+, but a couple of seemingly (suspiciously) nice looking ones like that one above for 15. Depreciation free motoring. Too good to be true perhaps, and if so, fair enough.

ETA: must be a manual, that’s probably my only real ‘must’.

[Chris Stott]

You’re approaching this in the right way…

If you can get some thing super solid for 15, and have up to 5 left to make it perfect, you should end up with a pretty much perfect car.

Fresh suspension is the thing that makes them feel right to drive… so i’d look for a sub 100k mile manual, with fresh brakes, recent clutch (& RMS), evidence of rads, water pump, AOS, decent tyres, no rust and good paint (in a colour you like) for sub 15… then get the suspension done with all new parts.

[abucd4]

Chris Stott said:

You’re approaching this in the right way…

If you can get some thing super solid for 15, and have up to 5 left to make it perfect, you should end up with a pretty much perfect car.

Fresh suspension is the thing that makes them feel right to drive… so i’d look for a sub 100k mile manual, with fresh brakes, recent clutch (& RMS), evidence of rads, water pump, AOS, decent tyres, no rust and good paint (in a colour you like) for sub 15… then get the suspension done with all new parts.

That’s a good checklist for me to work from, thanks. Good to know I’m not far off the mark.

[ATM]

abucd4 said:

Chris Stott said:

You’re approaching this in the right way…

If you can get some thing super solid for 15, and have up to 5 left to make it perfect, you should end up with a pretty much perfect car.

Fresh suspension is the thing that makes them feel right to drive… so i’d look for a sub 100k mile manual, with fresh brakes, recent clutch (& RMS), evidence of rads, water pump, AOS, decent tyres, no rust and good paint (in a colour you like) for sub 15… then get the suspension done with all new parts.

That’s a good checklist for me to work from, thanks. Good to know I’m not far off the mark.

Well hang on slow down. That's a big wish list. You might find it hard hitting all of those for 15k let alone sub 15k. If you do then yes go for it. I'd be expecting you to only hit a subset of those in the wish list. But shopping should be fun so keep us posted with what you find.