what is an 'early' 3.4 996?
Discussion
WojaWabbit said:
Thanks for the replies re: Sports seats. I made the onward journey without as much trouble as I had the night prior to posting, but still not great. A couple of hours seems to be right for taking a break, stretching the legs and then continuing on. I'll address that in due course.
So it made it to Germany, Destination Nurburgring
Had a few decent runs over 130mph on derestricted parts of the Autobahn and the car felt great. Monday morning started off well enough, even considering the sodding wet conditions on track. Instruction from Laurin at https://johlen-coaching.de/ was invaluable, he had me cracking along on the wet line, regularly passing considerably more focused machinery with drivers who were using the dry line.
The car was performing brilliantly, the new Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6s were superb, as were the newly installed PFC pads.
Unfortunately, it only lasted until lunchtime, when I went to get fuel and noticed a loud ticking/tapping noise from the rear - bugger! The car was still pulling well on track up until that point, held good oil pressure, no warning lights or smoke or any symptoms other than the ticking noise. I wrote Monday off, rented a Fiesta ST from RSR for the following day and tried to figure out what to do with the old pork. The car was still driveable so I gently crept along to The Crown Performance and asked them to drop the oil and throw in some 10W-60 to see if that quietened things down enough for me to make it to the ferry in Amsterdam on Wednesday. What they found wasn't good...
The noise wasn't silenced by the heavier-weight oil. Luckily my instructor put me in touch with a guy who would be heading back to the UK with an empty trailer - Flacht Motorsport in Kent. So that's what's going to happen next week. Tuesday in the Fiesta was really good fun, I still had a great trip and it meant I could get the beers in on the way back without worrying about driving the next day as I was catching a lift home from my mate.
Going to speak to a couple of companies about diagnostics and rebuild options. I have an indie in Scotland that I used with my old 996, but he's super busy just now, so will need to see what the time frame is. I think he'd be good for diagnostics and rectification, and also the cheapest option, but I'm thinking that I may as well upgrade and future-proof it while the engine is out, which I don't think he'd do as he's more a maintenance workshop than a performance workshop. Hartech and Track-Powertrain are on the list at the moment. Happy to listen to other suggestions.
Currently keeping fingers and toes crossed that it's just a top-end rattle from a lifter, follower, spring or similar. Also hoping the debris hasn't scored the bores. It certainly doesn't sound like it's a bottom-end issue, but we'll find out soon enough. It was going to get rebuilt eventually, the schedule has just been brought forward a bit which means the chassis upgrades that were going to happen first will need to wait a bit longer.
Urgh not good to see. What does the oil pressure gauge say? Any change from normal?So it made it to Germany, Destination Nurburgring
Had a few decent runs over 130mph on derestricted parts of the Autobahn and the car felt great. Monday morning started off well enough, even considering the sodding wet conditions on track. Instruction from Laurin at https://johlen-coaching.de/ was invaluable, he had me cracking along on the wet line, regularly passing considerably more focused machinery with drivers who were using the dry line.The car was performing brilliantly, the new Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6s were superb, as were the newly installed PFC pads.
Unfortunately, it only lasted until lunchtime, when I went to get fuel and noticed a loud ticking/tapping noise from the rear - bugger! The car was still pulling well on track up until that point, held good oil pressure, no warning lights or smoke or any symptoms other than the ticking noise. I wrote Monday off, rented a Fiesta ST from RSR for the following day and tried to figure out what to do with the old pork. The car was still driveable so I gently crept along to The Crown Performance and asked them to drop the oil and throw in some 10W-60 to see if that quietened things down enough for me to make it to the ferry in Amsterdam on Wednesday. What they found wasn't good...
The noise wasn't silenced by the heavier-weight oil. Luckily my instructor put me in touch with a guy who would be heading back to the UK with an empty trailer - Flacht Motorsport in Kent. So that's what's going to happen next week. Tuesday in the Fiesta was really good fun, I still had a great trip and it meant I could get the beers in on the way back without worrying about driving the next day as I was catching a lift home from my mate.
Going to speak to a couple of companies about diagnostics and rebuild options. I have an indie in Scotland that I used with my old 996, but he's super busy just now, so will need to see what the time frame is. I think he'd be good for diagnostics and rectification, and also the cheapest option, but I'm thinking that I may as well upgrade and future-proof it while the engine is out, which I don't think he'd do as he's more a maintenance workshop than a performance workshop. Hartech and Track-Powertrain are on the list at the moment. Happy to listen to other suggestions.
Currently keeping fingers and toes crossed that it's just a top-end rattle from a lifter, follower, spring or similar. Also hoping the debris hasn't scored the bores. It certainly doesn't sound like it's a bottom-end issue, but we'll find out soon enough. It was going to get rebuilt eventually, the schedule has just been brought forward a bit which means the chassis upgrades that were going to happen first will need to wait a bit longer.
ATM said:
Standard 997 / 987 seats are much better than the 996 seats I reckon and a fairly simple upgrade. Obviously proper buckets is a totally different ball game.
I'm always surprised there seems to be a consensus online that the 996 sports seats are deemed uncomfortable, I've always found them perfectly comfortable for short journeys and on long runs alike although admittedly they could be improved with more supportive side bolsters for the twistys. By contrast I found the 997 seats to be quite unforgiving on short journeys and down right painful on longer runs.
I'm 5'11' and a 'regular' build so it's not because I'm a funny shape!
Mikeeb said:
Fingers crossed the bores are good and a set of shells and top end rebuild gets her up and running.
Chris Stott said:
Fingers crossed Woja!
Thanks chaps, I'll report back once diagnosed.Fast Bug said:
Man maths and a bullet proof 3.7 rebuild?
Possibly, I've yet to speak to Hartech but it's an option. The car was cheap enough to buy that a full build is almost justifiable!shalmaneser said:
Urgh not good to see. What does the oil pressure gauge say? Any change from normal?
Oil pressure is good - 3bar idle, increasing with revs as normal. No smoke on start up or during running. Power felt normal during the laps prior to me noticing the noise.Chris Stott said:
You’re approaching this in the right way…
If you can get some thing super solid for 15, and have up to 5 left to make it perfect, you should end up with a pretty much perfect car.
Fresh suspension is the thing that makes them feel right to drive… so i’d look for a sub 100k mile manual, with fresh brakes, recent clutch (& RMS), evidence of rads, water pump, AOS, decent tyres, no rust and good paint (in a colour you like) for sub 15… then get the suspension done with all new parts.
Couldn’t agree more having (more by accident than good judgement) recently done the same with a 90,000 mile 997. £3500 on suspension bits, starter motor, belts and air con and she feels solid.If you can get some thing super solid for 15, and have up to 5 left to make it perfect, you should end up with a pretty much perfect car.
Fresh suspension is the thing that makes them feel right to drive… so i’d look for a sub 100k mile manual, with fresh brakes, recent clutch (& RMS), evidence of rads, water pump, AOS, decent tyres, no rust and good paint (in a colour you like) for sub 15… then get the suspension done with all new parts.
I have an annoying, intermittent stereo whine. Comes from speakers, rises with revs. Not always present.
The alternator regulator was replaced about 6 months ago.
The car has PCCM+ fitted.
Issue only appeared in the last few weeks, long after those two changes.
So it seems likely that it's a grounding issue but I just wanted to understand the best way of checking all grounds and where they are all located. The car has the Noika amp in the frunk (not bose).
If I had to guess, the noise is mainly coming from the rear OS speaker but I'm worried that is an illusion based on that one being closest to my head when driving.
The alternator regulator was replaced about 6 months ago.
The car has PCCM+ fitted.
Issue only appeared in the last few weeks, long after those two changes.
So it seems likely that it's a grounding issue but I just wanted to understand the best way of checking all grounds and where they are all located. The car has the Noika amp in the frunk (not bose).
If I had to guess, the noise is mainly coming from the rear OS speaker but I'm worried that is an illusion based on that one being closest to my head when driving.
Gad-Westy said:
I have an annoying, intermittent stereo whine. Comes from speakers, rises with revs. Not always present.
The alternator regulator was replaced about 6 months ago.
The car has PCCM+ fitted.
Issue only appeared in the last few weeks, long after those two changes.
So it seems likely that it's a grounding issue but I just wanted to understand the best way of checking all grounds and where they are all located. The car has the Noika amp in the frunk (not bose).
If I had to guess, the noise is mainly coming from the rear OS speaker but I'm worried that is an illusion based on that one being closest to my head when driving.
http://arma.free.fr/porsche/996/GT3/996%20Wiring%201999-2000.pdfThe alternator regulator was replaced about 6 months ago.
The car has PCCM+ fitted.
Issue only appeared in the last few weeks, long after those two changes.
So it seems likely that it's a grounding issue but I just wanted to understand the best way of checking all grounds and where they are all located. The car has the Noika amp in the frunk (not bose).
If I had to guess, the noise is mainly coming from the rear OS speaker but I'm worried that is an illusion based on that one being closest to my head when driving.
Have a close look through the above, ground points are on sheet 17 which is page 21.
shalmaneser said:
Gad-Westy said:
I have an annoying, intermittent stereo whine. Comes from speakers, rises with revs. Not always present.
The alternator regulator was replaced about 6 months ago.
The car has PCCM+ fitted.
Issue only appeared in the last few weeks, long after those two changes.
So it seems likely that it's a grounding issue but I just wanted to understand the best way of checking all grounds and where they are all located. The car has the Noika amp in the frunk (not bose).
If I had to guess, the noise is mainly coming from the rear OS speaker but I'm worried that is an illusion based on that one being closest to my head when driving.
http://arma.free.fr/porsche/996/GT3/996%20Wiring%201999-2000.pdfThe alternator regulator was replaced about 6 months ago.
The car has PCCM+ fitted.
Issue only appeared in the last few weeks, long after those two changes.
So it seems likely that it's a grounding issue but I just wanted to understand the best way of checking all grounds and where they are all located. The car has the Noika amp in the frunk (not bose).
If I had to guess, the noise is mainly coming from the rear OS speaker but I'm worried that is an illusion based on that one being closest to my head when driving.
Have a close look through the above, ground points are on sheet 17 which is page 21.
996 Carrera 4 manual (1999 cheaper road fund)
110,200 miles
£13,995.00
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185567947492
110,200 miles
£13,995.00
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185567947492
nebpor said:
Pistonheads sticker, sounds like an enthusiast. Think you’re being a bit cynical
If he is a dealer and it is his personal car, I can imagine why a personal sale is less risky and more sensible for them given the warranty cost a 996 can throw up
sticker could have been there when he was sold the car he is now flipping? Its possible.If he is a dealer and it is his personal car, I can imagine why a personal sale is less risky and more sensible for them given the warranty cost a 996 can throw up
Why no interior pics other than back seat. They are hiding something.
It is a strange thing to say but a less cynical reason would be that the seller has mentioned it's their personal car as a way of endorsing its quality. It maybe suggests that he/she knows it better/has taken better care of it than cars that simply pass through as part of a business.
I agree it would be nice to have a photo of the rest of the interior but any interested buyer could easily ask for that before making any sort of commitment.
I think it sounds like quite a nice example
I agree it would be nice to have a photo of the rest of the interior but any interested buyer could easily ask for that before making any sort of commitment.
I think it sounds like quite a nice example
Edited by blueovercream on Thursday 29th September 20:13
Edited by blueovercream on Thursday 29th September 20:15
Not for me I’m afraid, I don’t like disrespecting others cars but there are so many fraudsters out there now a days that you have to be wary.
The mot history is rather interesting as well but then again it’s £13995.
How many times has it been said, you need £20K for a good one, that’s buy at £20 or buy at £14K & spend £6K
The mot history is rather interesting as well but then again it’s £13995.
How many times has it been said, you need £20K for a good one, that’s buy at £20 or buy at £14K & spend £6K
giraffeinbath said:
ATM said:
Standard 997 / 987 seats are much better than the 996 seats I reckon and a fairly simple upgrade. Obviously proper buckets is a totally different ball game.
I'm always surprised there seems to be a consensus online that the 996 sports seats are deemed uncomfortable, I've always found them perfectly comfortable for short journeys and on long runs alike although admittedly they could be improved with more supportive side bolsters for the twistys. By contrast I found the 997 seats to be quite unforgiving on short journeys and down right painful on longer runs.
I'm 5'11' and a 'regular' build so it's not because I'm a funny shape!
Alas I think they look really out of place in a 996 - too modern for the dash
Not that this is important, given how important not having a sore back is! I've found the seats in all 3 of my Porsches (986 tombs, 996C2 sports, 996 turbo hard-backed sports) amongst the most comfortable of anything I've ever owned. My E34 M5 was probably the worst - they crippled me
Not that this is important, given how important not having a sore back is! I've found the seats in all 3 of my Porsches (986 tombs, 996C2 sports, 996 turbo hard-backed sports) amongst the most comfortable of anything I've ever owned. My E34 M5 was probably the worst - they crippled me
Evening all!
Been on the look out on and off for a nice 3.4 coupe a while now.
After joining various FB groups one came up that I recognised as it’s at the end of my street!
3.4 1999 Vesuvius Grey with factory aero - looks unreal and the owner has clearly looked after it.
It has however got rust bubbling on the rear quarters where they meet the bumper.
Not seen this on any other 996 could it be due to accident damage? It’s the kind of bubbling I had on my rusty generation CLK not what you see on these from my limited experience anyway.
Has anyone encountered this and/ or know the depth of the work involved to remedy?
Been on the look out on and off for a nice 3.4 coupe a while now.
After joining various FB groups one came up that I recognised as it’s at the end of my street!
3.4 1999 Vesuvius Grey with factory aero - looks unreal and the owner has clearly looked after it.
It has however got rust bubbling on the rear quarters where they meet the bumper.
Not seen this on any other 996 could it be due to accident damage? It’s the kind of bubbling I had on my rusty generation CLK not what you see on these from my limited experience anyway.
Has anyone encountered this and/ or know the depth of the work involved to remedy?
Rusty rear arches are a thing… early 996’s have a lip on the inside of the rear wheel arch where dirt collects... which will eventually lead to rust. The front arches rust as well… and the rear of the sills.
The rear arches are triple skinned, and need cutting out and new piece fabricated to weld in.
I’ve just had those areas sorted on my car and the total cost was around £1500.
The rear arches are triple skinned, and need cutting out and new piece fabricated to weld in.
I’ve just had those areas sorted on my car and the total cost was around £1500.
Chris Stott said:
Rusty rear arches are a thing… early 996’s have a lip on the inside of the rear wheel arch where dirt collects... which will eventually lead to rust. The front arches rust as well… and the rear of the sills.
The rear arches are triple skinned, and need cutting out and new piece fabricated to weld in.
I’ve just had those areas sorted on my car and the total cost was around £1500.
Sounds actually quite reasonable for all that, a lot of painting to do there too.The rear arches are triple skinned, and need cutting out and new piece fabricated to weld in.
I’ve just had those areas sorted on my car and the total cost was around £1500.
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