Starter motor rebuild
Discussion
I had my Lucas M35J to pieces recently to see if it was dirty inside. Taking the starter itself to pieces was no problem, as far I as needed to go, as it all unscrews. I think the only difficult bit is trying to remove the field magnets from the case, I've never managed that. Stripping the solenoid down was a little more hassle because it required the wires to the contacts on the rear panel to be unsoldered, and my soldering iron is only just up to it.
droopsnoot said:
I had my Lucas M35J to pieces recently to see if it was dirty inside. Taking the starter itself to pieces was no problem, as far I as needed to go, as it all unscrews. I think the only difficult bit is trying to remove the field magnets from the case, I've never managed that. Stripping the solenoid down was a little more hassle because it required the wires to the contacts on the rear panel to be unsoldered, and my soldering iron is only just up to it.
I think you need one of these devices to undo the screws that hold the field coils:https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&a...
The screws are too tight to be loosened by a normal screwdriver.
I've taken a few to bits over the years, mainly just to change brushes and check the Bendix mechanism on older ones. I'm afraid I used a centre punch and a big hammer to shift the screws in one case! The Lucas starter on my XK was past its best - the return spring on the Bendix was broken and the teeth on the pinion looked a bit weary. Thankfully the flywheel teeth were all right so I bought a geared starter which has so far been excellent. An amazing difference in weight too as I could hold the new one in one hand to fit it as opposed to two and much ingenuity in bits of wood and bad language with the old one.
my first job in the sixties was repairing lucas stater motors. must be easy then. unless they are burnt out , clean up, new brushes / bearings clean the com, and may aswell put a new cog on. hardest part will prob be resoldering the brushes some of the leads from the coils were alumiium.
mgv8 said:
I have a Lucas starter motor that goes click but not turning motor over. Small hit with a hammer and it works.
The question is, how hard is it to rebuild my self?
I'm not too up on starter motor problems but have you done a search on what the actual problem might be? It might be a case of just fitting a new solonoid or cleaning a part up on it. The question is, how hard is it to rebuild my self?
Just working on the basis of an easy fix.
If it's an M35, I have a document that says "Should any part of the drive assembly require renewal the assembly can be withdrawn from the armature shaft extension once the main spring is compressed sufficiently to expose the jump ring which can then be sprung from its groove. "
I did a google search a while ago and found an old Lucas technical sheet PDF for that starter motor, if it's the same one PM me and I'll email it to you.
I did a google search a while ago and found an old Lucas technical sheet PDF for that starter motor, if it's the same one PM me and I'll email it to you.
Dont forget to get the commutator skimmed in a lathe and undercut it afterwards if it needs it
http://www.martindaleco.com/HTML/MetalWorkingMicaS...
Only if it needs it
http://www.martindaleco.com/HTML/MetalWorkingMicaS...
Only if it needs it
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 11th July 13:30
Penelope Stopit said:
Make one of these with a few bits of steel
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Starter-Motor-Armature-Spri...
Thanks, that is what I need (or need to make).http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Starter-Motor-Armature-Spri...
I found a spring clamp that had been put under tattoo kit on ebay so was cheap. Now have that off. Next problem is the part the spins will not come off. It looks like there is a collar at the bottom that should turn and line up with the slots in the shaft. But can not work out to get to it or turn in?
It may be worth cleaning it, particularly if at some point there's been a rear main seal leak. The oil flings onto the starter and creates a sticky mess that prevents the gear moving smoothly, though in my experience this is normally more an issue with it not initially throwing out, rather than not returning.
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