981 wheel alignment questions and advice pls
Discussion
I just aligned the four wheels of my 981 for the first time.
Although the initial and after alignment assessments show a considerable improvement, I don’t feel it when driving.
Furthermore, the camber of my front left was not done due to insufficient time, and as it is 0.48 negative camber (will double check exact figure and amend post if necessary), I was told it is acceptable by the mechanic.
Questions:
1) Is it normal no to feel a difference when driving the car after alignment?
2)What is an acceptable negative camber for a Boxster S 981?
I’m clueless about all this, so all advice welcome !
Although the initial and after alignment assessments show a considerable improvement, I don’t feel it when driving.
Furthermore, the camber of my front left was not done due to insufficient time, and as it is 0.48 negative camber (will double check exact figure and amend post if necessary), I was told it is acceptable by the mechanic.
Questions:
1) Is it normal no to feel a difference when driving the car after alignment?
2)What is an acceptable negative camber for a Boxster S 981?
I’m clueless about all this, so all advice welcome !
I'd get a new mechanic who can do a proper job of at least ensuring camber (and other values) is the same each side.
The "best" settings depend on how you want to use the car but if for normal road use (not 'hooning') I'd suggest starting with Porsche mid-points in the scales shown on the alignment print-out and seeing how that feels to you.
The "best" settings depend on how you want to use the car but if for normal road use (not 'hooning') I'd suggest starting with Porsche mid-points in the scales shown on the alignment print-out and seeing how that feels to you.
Twinfan said:
Why do you think that? It's within Porsche spec, unlike the front!
I would say you would loose tracion out the bends and the car would push and understeer, although at higher limits than stock plus you might wear the inner more, there is no way you are leaning on the car to get the full tyre patch on the road with -2 at the back when you only have -1.5 up front, it will be like running 235 tyres lol you just lost contact patch, i bet the outter part of the tyre looks brand new.Edited by Twinfan on Sunday 27th May 09:26
I ran my gt4 in the end with -2.2 up front and only -1.8 at the rear and the outer rear never got touched. My 987 spyder runs about the same -2 and -1.8 after a lot of playing.
Porsche911R said:
I would say you would loose tracion out the bends and the car would push and understeer, although at higher limits than stock plus you might wear the inner more, there is no way you are leaning on the car to get the full tyre patch on the road with -2 at the back when you only have -1.5 up front, it will be like running 235 tyres lol you just lost contact patch, i bet the outter part of the tyre looks brand new.
I ran my gt4 in the end with -2.2 up front and only -1.8 at the rear and the outer rear never got touched. My 987 spyder runs about the same -2 and -1.8 after a lot of playing.
Interesting, cheers. To have less camber at the rear than the front I'd have to back it off to say -1.2. Ideally I'd like more on the front but I want the car to stay on stock parts for now.I ran my gt4 in the end with -2.2 up front and only -1.8 at the rear and the outer rear never got touched. My 987 spyder runs about the same -2 and -1.8 after a lot of playing.
gtsralph said:
I'd get a new mechanic who can do a proper job of at least ensuring camber (and other values) is the same each side.
The "best" settings depend on how you want to use the car but if for normal road use (not 'hooning') I'd suggest starting with Porsche mid-points in the scales shown on the alignment print-out and seeing how that feels to you.
Thank you. They are normally good. I’ll call them up and ask to re-book the car to finish the job. Apparently to do the camber alignment, one needs to take many parts out to access the adjusting area? If so, is it better if a Porsche specialist does this work?The "best" settings depend on how you want to use the car but if for normal road use (not 'hooning') I'd suggest starting with Porsche mid-points in the scales shown on the alignment print-out and seeing how that feels to you.
Edited by Boxster_racer on Sunday 27th May 20:13
Twinfan said:
I'm not sure it's many parts, just a few covers etc. Mine was all done in around an hour.
I'd go to a well known specialist who has worked on Porsches before. There are plenty around.
Thank you (and everyone else) for the advice. Does anyone know of a good Porsche specialist in the east London area?I'd go to a well known specialist who has worked on Porsches before. There are plenty around.
I paid £138 for the job, so don’t know if the price is right, and if should ask for the money back...
Edited by Boxster_racer on Sunday 27th May 22:51
Boxster_racer said:
Thank you. They are normally good. I’ll call them up and ask to re-book the car to finish the job. Apparently to do the camber alignment, one needs to take many parts out to access the adjusting area? If so, is it better if a Porsche specialist does this work?
The cars got fixed sus, so all you have is 3 bolts on the top mounts to slide 3 or 4mm.Edited by Boxster_racer on Sunday 27th May 20:13
Nothing to remove bar a clip off plastic cover.
They are bullstters.
Porsche911R said:
The cars got fixed sus, so all you have is 3 bolts on the top mounts to slide 3 or 4mm.
Nothing to remove bar a clip off plastic cover.
They are bullstters.
Thanks... I feel I’ve been done... I’ll look out for a local specialist or my OPC and see how much it costs to do.Nothing to remove bar a clip off plastic cover.
They are bullstters.
I track the car around two three times a year at Bedford autodrome. I’m taking it to the ring in September (DN#20), so want to make sure the car is in a good condition.
In consultation, we settled on a "mild" fast road set up (my description). Slightly more camber on the front than ex factory and slightly less on the rear.
To me, the car still feels secure at the rear but more positive on the front end and nicely balanced. Sorted out a less then straight steering wheel and tendency to pull left (rather than fall slowly left with the road camber)
I do use my car for a fair amount of motorway work and it probably won't go near a track so didn't want or need too aggressive a set up.
On a recent +2k mile trip to Europe, it was stable and relaxing on the autoroute but great fun once we got to the Black Forest / Dolomites / Alps etc.
Rich
To me, the car still feels secure at the rear but more positive on the front end and nicely balanced. Sorted out a less then straight steering wheel and tendency to pull left (rather than fall slowly left with the road camber)
I do use my car for a fair amount of motorway work and it probably won't go near a track so didn't want or need too aggressive a set up.
On a recent +2k mile trip to Europe, it was stable and relaxing on the autoroute but great fun once we got to the Black Forest / Dolomites / Alps etc.
Rich
Rich.H said:
In consultation, we settled on a "mild" fast road set up (my description). Slightly more camber on the front than ex factory and slightly less on the rear.
To me, the car still feels secure at the rear but more positive on the front end and nicely balanced. Sorted out a less then straight steering wheel and tendency to pull left (rather than fall slowly left with the road camber)
I do use my car for a fair amount of motorway work and it probably won't go near a track so didn't want or need too aggressive a set up.
On a recent +2k mile trip to Europe, it was stable and relaxing on the autoroute but great fun once we got to the Black Forest / Dolomites / Alps etc.
Rich
Thanks Rich for this very useful info. I’m waiting for the tyre and wheel shop to get back to me on this issue.To me, the car still feels secure at the rear but more positive on the front end and nicely balanced. Sorted out a less then straight steering wheel and tendency to pull left (rather than fall slowly left with the road camber)
I do use my car for a fair amount of motorway work and it probably won't go near a track so didn't want or need too aggressive a set up.
On a recent +2k mile trip to Europe, it was stable and relaxing on the autoroute but great fun once we got to the Black Forest / Dolomites / Alps etc.
Rich
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