What’s the right price for a 991.2 GT3 ?
Discussion
xbowdan said:
You’re not braking hard enough bud!!
If you’re taking it pretty easy or you’re a relative novice, then I’d agree that ceramics last a reasonably long time. The main issue I found is when the rotors started to go, they’d eat through pads at a much higher rate. In the end, I’d go through a set of pads every 3-4 track days, and by the time I sold the car, they needed a new set of rotors... at a cost of £19k. I didn’t actually do THAT many track days really.... probably 20 in 6 years ownership. Car had done only 24k miles from memory.
I’ve done 2 track days and 2 evening sessions in the 991.2 GT3, and I’ll be needing some pads pretty soon. That’s on steels.
Lol, i have been tracking Porsche cars for about 30 years, i assure you i do brake hard. To late and hard in fact.If you’re taking it pretty easy or you’re a relative novice, then I’d agree that ceramics last a reasonably long time. The main issue I found is when the rotors started to go, they’d eat through pads at a much higher rate. In the end, I’d go through a set of pads every 3-4 track days, and by the time I sold the car, they needed a new set of rotors... at a cost of £19k. I didn’t actually do THAT many track days really.... probably 20 in 6 years ownership. Car had done only 24k miles from memory.
I’ve done 2 track days and 2 evening sessions in the 991.2 GT3, and I’ll be needing some pads pretty soon. That’s on steels.
Edited by xbowdan on Saturday 27th April 12:26
Not sure we are on about the same CCBDs. The reason as to why i ask is because the post 13 CCBDs don't wear out like you have set out above, there is no lamination on a Disc Post 13 that chews up the Pads etc due to the ceramic coating. The disc wear rate is checked not buy weight or buy measuring the thickness but buy measuring the density of the Disc with an X Ray type devise as below.
If your observations are based on the pre 13 CCBDs, then yes i would fully agree. Have known discs need replacing after under 4k miles with not many track days
Edited by APOLO1 on Saturday 27th April 14:44
APOLO1 said:
Lol, i have been tracking Porsche cars for about 30 years, i assure you i do brake hard. To late and hard in fact.
Not sure we are on about the same CCBDs. The reason as to why i ask is because the post 13 CCBDs don't wear out like you have set out above, there is no lamination on a Disc Post 13 that chews up the Pads etc due to the ceramic coating. The disc wear rate is checked not buy weight or buy measuring the thickness but buy measuring the density of the Disc with an X Ray type devise as below.
But to be fair, someone else we both know had to replace both front ceramic rotors on his .1 rs after maybe 10 trackdays? So while the current gen of ceramics do last longer than before, I don't think they are necessarily always going to last the way you had on the orange RS.Not sure we are on about the same CCBDs. The reason as to why i ask is because the post 13 CCBDs don't wear out like you have set out above, there is no lamination on a Disc Post 13 that chews up the Pads etc due to the ceramic coating. The disc wear rate is checked not buy weight or buy measuring the thickness but buy measuring the density of the Disc with an X Ray type devise as below.
isaldiri said:
But to be fair, someone else we both know had to replace both front ceramic rotors on his .1 rs after maybe 10 trackdays? So while the current gen of ceramics do last longer than before, I don't think they are necessarily always going to last the way you had on the orange RS.
Yea, through stone chips not wear rate. I take the point that i do try and do cooling laps, but its not always possible due to red flags etc. The way to get the most out of the CCBDs is not to let the pads get down to the last bit before changing. Also the cooling holes in the Discs need cleaning out after every event. Both of these have an effect on the density ie the wear rate of the Discs.
xbowdan said:
You’re not braking hard enough bud!!
If you’re taking it pretty easy or you’re a relative novice, then I’d agree that ceramics last a reasonably long time. The main issue I found is when the rotors started to go, they’d eat through pads at a much higher rate. In the end, I’d go through a set of pads every 3-4 track days, and by the time I sold the car, they needed a new set of rotors... at a cost of £19k. I didn’t actually do THAT many track days really.... probably 20 in 6 years ownership. Car had done only 24k miles from memory.
I’ve done 2 track days and 2 evening sessions in the 991.2 GT3, and I’ll be needing some pads pretty soon. That’s on steels.
If you’ve gone through a set of pads after 4 sessions, then I’d suggest you’re over using the brakes....? It’s not about how hard you’re braking, but how efficient you are with brakes....If you’re taking it pretty easy or you’re a relative novice, then I’d agree that ceramics last a reasonably long time. The main issue I found is when the rotors started to go, they’d eat through pads at a much higher rate. In the end, I’d go through a set of pads every 3-4 track days, and by the time I sold the car, they needed a new set of rotors... at a cost of £19k. I didn’t actually do THAT many track days really.... probably 20 in 6 years ownership. Car had done only 24k miles from memory.
I’ve done 2 track days and 2 evening sessions in the 991.2 GT3, and I’ll be needing some pads pretty soon. That’s on steels.
Edited by xbowdan on Saturday 27th April 12:26
We competed in the WRC and IRC for many years, and won several championships. On tough events on the brakes like Corsica and Catalunya, we’d win and do the event on 1 or maybe 2 sets of pads and discs, and the slower drivers chasing us would be over braking and changing pads and discs every service...
APOLO1 said:
Lol, i have been tracking Porsche cars for about 30 years, i assure you i do brake hard. To late and hard in fact.
Not sure we are on about the same CCBDs. The reason as to why i ask is because the post 13 CCBDs don't wear out like you have set out above, there is no lamination on a Disc Post 13 that chews up the Pads etc due to the ceramic coating. The disc wear rate is checked not buy weight or buy measuring the thickness but buy measuring the density of the Disc with an X Ray type devise as below.
If your observations are based on the pre 13 CCBDs, then yes i would fully agree. Have known discs need replacing after under 4k miles with not many track days
I was referring to my old 997RS, so I’m sure they’re better.Not sure we are on about the same CCBDs. The reason as to why i ask is because the post 13 CCBDs don't wear out like you have set out above, there is no lamination on a Disc Post 13 that chews up the Pads etc due to the ceramic coating. The disc wear rate is checked not buy weight or buy measuring the thickness but buy measuring the density of the Disc with an X Ray type devise as below.
If your observations are based on the pre 13 CCBDs, then yes i would fully agree. Have known discs need replacing after under 4k miles with not many track days
Edited by APOLO1 on Saturday 27th April 14:44
IREvans said:
If you’ve gone through a set of pads after 4 sessions, then I’d suggest you’re over using the brakes....? It’s not about how hard you’re braking, but how efficient you are with brakes....
We competed in the WRC and IRC for many years, and won several championships. On tough events on the brakes like Corsica and Catalunya, we’d win and do the event on 1 or maybe 2 sets of pads and discs, and the slower drivers chasing us would be over braking and changing pads and discs every service...
You could be right. But braking hard and late is fun.We competed in the WRC and IRC for many years, and won several championships. On tough events on the brakes like Corsica and Catalunya, we’d win and do the event on 1 or maybe 2 sets of pads and discs, and the slower drivers chasing us would be over braking and changing pads and discs every service...
I’ll have to check to see how much I have left, I could be wrong, as I’m going by how long pads have lasted in previous cars, including racing.
xbowdan said:
I was referring to my old 997RS, so I’m sure they’re better.
Ah, thought this might be the case. Based on my Experience, if you work on about the CCBDs that came on the Post 13 cars, being about 4 x times the track life of the previous ones on the 997RSs, then you will be about right.
av185 said:
Yep cars are selling no trouble unlike other marques.
2k mile good spec yellow clubsport 'manuel' gearbox GT3 sold last week at £165k.
Basically nothing else comes close at this price point.
Romans have a white 2k mile white manual CS for £141k...missing PCCB’s but good spec otherwise.2k mile good spec yellow clubsport 'manuel' gearbox GT3 sold last week at £165k.
Basically nothing else comes close at this price point.
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Cheib said:
av185 said:
Yep cars are selling no trouble unlike other marques.
2k mile good spec yellow clubsport 'manuel' gearbox GT3 sold last week at £165k.
Basically nothing else comes close at this price point.
Romans have a white 2k mile white manual CS for £141k...missing PCCB’s but good spec otherwise.2k mile good spec yellow clubsport 'manuel' gearbox GT3 sold last week at £165k.
Basically nothing else comes close at this price point.
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
They sold a Crayon one last week up at £158950 with ceramics don't know the mileage or year though.
Cheib said:
Romans have a white 2k mile white manual CS for £141k...missing PCCB’s but good spec otherwise.
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Fantastic spec that and with only 1K miles an absolute bargain..It even has a Sharkwerks exhaust bypass included in the price..https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
So if i understand right a car that will be used mainly if not only on the road then ceramics are a good option or not that important. if car is tracked then steels are the better option.?
For all the info that's been posted above why is it that a PCCB car is the most sort after? or am i wrong?
For all the info that's been posted above why is it that a PCCB car is the most sort after? or am i wrong?
cayman-black said:
So if i understand right a car that will be used mainly if not only on the road then ceramics are a good option or not that important. if car is tracked then steels are the better option.?
For all the info that's been posted above why is it that a PCCB car is the most sort after? or am i wrong?
PCCB are also better on track, people just don't like the cost, but the new ones seem to hold up far better so a lot of the cost is offset as they last a lot longer. the new 380MM steels disks cost £2k to replace so now very expensive to also track !For all the info that's been posted above why is it that a PCCB car is the most sort after? or am i wrong?
So no down sides to PCCB imo £6k is very cheap option as it's more like £25k to buy them outright.
in a ideal world you would spec steels, rip them off and put the £6k you were going to spend on PCCBS towards £10k worth of racing parts as fitted to the RSR.
but at it stands PCCB save a lot of weight and are bigger so must stop a car faster and of course lighter means faster every where if you can notice or not is another matter. But people are spending £25k on mag wheels and PCCB are only £6k and save 50% weight.
a RSR steel set up for your £10k weighs the same as a PCCB set up, so money no object you spend £10k after market which is offset by the £6k saving.
I have had 8 porkers the two I own now and have kept both have PCCB's they do work better and they are lighter, you have clean wheels and no rusty hubs or pad sticking issue if damp, and they look better.
cayman-black said:
Thanks, 911R.
If you do occasional track days like 911R, PCCB's are very durable in their latest iteration, and the cost to spec is a relatively reasonable £6k.Until you get into the realms of 40+ hard days on them, chances are they will still be within wear limits which may well be within the time you plan on keeping the car.
However if you do use it extensively and they require replacing it's a big chunk of change and will be required if you want to keep your warranty renewable.
As ever, depends on what you plan on doing, but don't be under the impression they will last and last if you hit the track frequently.
Cars with them certainly seem to move quicker and for better prices.
Porsche911R said:
So no down sides to PCCB imo £6k is very cheap option as it's more like £25k to buy them outright.
'No downsides to pccb'and in the same sentence you state it is £25k in replacement cost. That's one bloody enormous downside staring at you right in the face I'd have thought.And for all your going on about '£10k RSR parts', they simply aren't required by anyone on pleb spec iron brakes. Just replace the OEM rotors when they are worn with a decent set of slotted racing discs and use a reasonable endurance pad and it'll do the job perfectly fine without said '£10k rsr brakes'
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