Discussion
Yeah, technique is the elephant in the room I guess - I'm new to the car which doesn't help, though I'm fairly experienced as a track driver now. I think I'll flush the fluid, perhaps pop some shims in there and go again with it all off. I foolishly didn't think to turn everything off - I've had Lotus and VX220s before which had no stability control at all so I'm not totally unused to it, but my 718 GT4 never seemed to interfere even though I left everything on.
ATM said:
GT4RS said:
Be careful if you SOR it, garage goes pop you could end up loosing the lot and there’s no guarantee how long until you get paid.
Not even main dealers are immune no matter how much you may convince yourself. I know of one main agent who was selling people financed cars up to going into administration. Ok, not Porsche but it does happen. Dozens of innocent buyers ripped off through financial fraud even if no one was ever convicted of it.
Actus Reus said:
GT03 said:
Just wanted to share a brake set up that worked really well for me on track this week. Edited to add part numbers and prices:
This is interesting to read - I popped to Snett last night and boiled the fluid on my fourth session. Brand new Motul 660 in there, and the pedal went to the floor, luckily on my cooldown lap.Is the GT3 Master Cylinder going to help with cooling? I can't imagine it'd do much, whereas SRF Fluid would help?
My car is a PDK with sport chrono which I was driving in Sport Plus - I measured the temps on the discs and the rears were just over 300C when I did so, whereas the fronts were 240ish. I assume that's a function of the PSM? I had the traction control switch still 'on' - would turning that off help?
That's the second time I've boiled the fluid in my R now, and I'm losing a bit of confidence in it tbh. Any advice gratefully received.
Actus Reus said:
This is interesting to read - I popped to Snett last night and boiled the fluid on my fourth session. Brand new Motul 660 in there, and the pedal went to the floor, luckily on my cooldown lap.
Is the GT3 Master Cylinder going to help with cooling? I can't imagine it'd do much, whereas SRF Fluid would help?
My car is a PDK with sport chrono which I was driving in Sport Plus - I measured the temps on the discs and the rears were just over 300C when I did so, whereas the fronts were 240ish. I assume that's a function of the PSM? I had the traction control switch still 'on' - would turning that off help?
That's the second time I've boiled the fluid in my R now, and I'm losing a bit of confidence in it tbh. Any advice gratefully received.
Hi, I used Mintex M1166 pads with titanium back plates, SRF fluid and GT2 (Expensive) Ducts. I also have a GT3 MC and never suffered with a long pedal again after this set up.Is the GT3 Master Cylinder going to help with cooling? I can't imagine it'd do much, whereas SRF Fluid would help?
My car is a PDK with sport chrono which I was driving in Sport Plus - I measured the temps on the discs and the rears were just over 300C when I did so, whereas the fronts were 240ish. I assume that's a function of the PSM? I had the traction control switch still 'on' - would turning that off help?
That's the second time I've boiled the fluid in my R now, and I'm losing a bit of confidence in it tbh. Any advice gratefully received.
There are a couple of posts here which have mentioned pad, fluid and cooling combinations but without mention of discs - can I ask what those with "modified" brake setups are finding work well disc wise? My car is currently on standard brakes but for the GT3 cooling ducts. I found the same discs as the Porsche ones from the manufacturer to avoid the "Porsche tax" when I last changed them.
One day when I've some more free cash I'll get mine on track....
One day when I've some more free cash I'll get mine on track....
ajondyh said:
Hi, I used Mintex M1166 pads with titanium back plates, SRF fluid and GT2 (Expensive) Ducts. I also have a GT3 MC and never suffered with a long pedal again after this set up.
This is one of a few cars I have and I'm loathe to throw too much at it given the track use it will see so I'm close to just flushing the fluid and then not tracking it and using it on road only... I'll maybe try some of that (SRF, shims and perhaps new rear pads) and if it still does then cut my losses.ATM said:
GT4RS said:
Be careful if you SOR it, garage goes pop you could end up loosing the lot and there’s no guarantee how long until you get paid.
Funny enough both my cars sold in record time at JZM but hindsight is a wonderful thing.
As said if the deals fair and your reasonably happy all good.
Fast safe service saves all those tyre knickers .
My experience most people want finance on cars of this price bracket so narrows the market
I don't really want people coming round to buy a 50k car far to risky.
All only my experience of course each to there own.
Edited by tracydeedance on Wednesday 26th July 17:05
PaulD86 said:
There are a couple of posts here which have mentioned pad, fluid and cooling combinations but without mention of discs - can I ask what those with "modified" brake setups are finding work well disc wise? My car is currently on standard brakes but for the GT3 cooling ducts. I found the same discs as the Porsche ones from the manufacturer to avoid the "Porsche tax" when I last changed them.
One day when I've some more free cash I'll get mine on track....
I have standard size OEM discs all round, which work well. I've also had success with Pagid, Brembo and Sebro discs from Eurocarparts in the past for track work. IMO decent pads are more important than discs.One day when I've some more free cash I'll get mine on track....
Actus Reus said:
I don't know - car's new to me unfortunately, but tyres are now fairly old PilotSports (2018 DOT codes).
I do wonder if your rears aren't gripping as they should be - PSM almost never activates for me in Sport mode on track. I'm on standard PS2 N2s.Actus Reus said:
This is one of a few cars I have and I'm loathe to throw too much at it given the track use it will see so I'm close to just flushing the fluid and then not tracking it and using it on road only... I'll maybe try some of that (SRF, shims and perhaps new rear pads) and if it still does then cut my losses.
Ideally you'd attack it from all angles.Heat management: GT3 ducts, GT3 MC, and decent pads. The ducts will help to get rid of heat, while the GT3 MC and pads will give you the confidence to brake later and harder.
Higher fluid boiling point: SRF has a much higher wet boiling point of 270°C, compared to 220°C for RBF 660.
If you look at my list, it's around £500 in parts total. Complete transformation in braking compared to standard. Shims might delay heat soak by a couple of minutes, but I wouldn't bother personally.
tighnamara said:
After not using the R much, going to be putting it up for sale in the next few weeks.
Another summer and only been out once, so decision made to move on (if it sells
) otherwise will be garaged for next summer.
I know these should be used but as 3rd car its just not out much................. as it should be.
Was thinking of a SOR but not sure after reading some of the stories, any recommended garages if I go down the SOR route.
Might be interested - PM meAnother summer and only been out once, so decision made to move on (if it sells
) otherwise will be garaged for next summer.I know these should be used but as 3rd car its just not out much................. as it should be.
Was thinking of a SOR but not sure after reading some of the stories, any recommended garages if I go down the SOR route.
GT03 said:
Ideally you'd attack it from all angles.
Heat management: GT3 ducts, GT3 MC, and decent pads. The ducts will help to get rid of heat, while the GT3 MC and pads will give you the confidence to brake later and harder.
Higher fluid boiling point: SRF has a much higher wet boiling point of 270°C, compared to 220°C for RBF 660.
If you look at my list, it's around £500 in parts total. Complete transformation in braking compared to standard. Shims might delay heat soak by a couple of minutes, but I wouldn't bother personally.
Thanks - I think these pads are decent enough; my braking needs some work as I’m still not used to the car but the pads give me confidence. It’s the boiling fluid that’s set that back really; at the wrong corner that could be quite nasty.Heat management: GT3 ducts, GT3 MC, and decent pads. The ducts will help to get rid of heat, while the GT3 MC and pads will give you the confidence to brake later and harder.
Higher fluid boiling point: SRF has a much higher wet boiling point of 270°C, compared to 220°C for RBF 660.
If you look at my list, it's around £500 in parts total. Complete transformation in braking compared to standard. Shims might delay heat soak by a couple of minutes, but I wouldn't bother personally.
I agree, though, with the above - I have new rear pads, front ducts, SRF etc on the way.
Interesting comment about the TC - I haven’t noticed it other than that the rears are much hotter than the fronts after a session, which I have only assumed is the TC. Some comments on the forums support this, others not. Apparently PDK cars are worse (according to some Internet strangers in the USA!).
I’ll give all of this a whirl and remember to turn the TC off as well as the sport plus. I’ll report back.
Actus Reus said:
Thanks - I think these pads are decent enough; my braking needs some work as I’m still not used to the car but the pads give me confidence. It’s the boiling fluid that’s set that back really; at the wrong corner that could be quite nasty.
I agree, though, with the above - I have new rear pads, front ducts, SRF etc on the way.
Interesting comment about the TC - I haven’t noticed it other than that the rears are much hotter than the fronts after a session, which I have only assumed is the TC. Some comments on the forums support this, others not. Apparently PDK cars are worse (according to some Internet strangers in the USA!).
I’ll give all of this a whirl and remember to turn the TC off as well as the sport plus. I’ll report back.
Might be because PDK shifts into the lower gears more often than you would in a manual. For example, I leave mine in 3rd everywhere around Brands Hatch Indy except the main straight, but the PDK Cayman GTS with us was frequently downshifting into 2nd.I agree, though, with the above - I have new rear pads, front ducts, SRF etc on the way.
Interesting comment about the TC - I haven’t noticed it other than that the rears are much hotter than the fronts after a session, which I have only assumed is the TC. Some comments on the forums support this, others not. Apparently PDK cars are worse (according to some Internet strangers in the USA!).
I’ll give all of this a whirl and remember to turn the TC off as well as the sport plus. I’ll report back.
tighnamara said:
After not using the R much, going to be putting it up for sale in the next few weeks.
Another summer and only been out once, so decision made to move on (if it sells) otherwise will be garaged for next summer.
I know these should be used but as 3rd car its just not out much................. as it should be.
Was thinking of a SOR but not sure after reading some of the stories, any recommended garages if I go down the SOR route.
Drop me a pm. I’m looking for one and would be happy to agree a fair deal, but would be good to have details on spec/etc. Another summer and only been out once, so decision made to move on (if it sells
) otherwise will be garaged for next summer.I know these should be used but as 3rd car its just not out much................. as it should be.
Was thinking of a SOR but not sure after reading some of the stories, any recommended garages if I go down the SOR route.
You can send me an email from my profile page: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp?h=...
GT03 said:
Might be because PDK shifts into the lower gears more often than you would in a manual. For example, I leave mine in 3rd everywhere around Brands Hatch Indy except the main straight, but the PDK Cayman GTS with us was frequently downshifting into 2nd.
I shift myself and I'm basically in the same ratio in the Porsche as I would be in my manual road cars with perhaps one exception on the lap. I think it's more likely the PSM/traction control just nipping the brakes.I have various bits on order so let's see.
Actus Reus said:
I shift myself and I'm basically in the same ratio in the Porsche as I would be in my manual road cars with perhaps one exception on the lap. I think it's more likely the PSM/traction control just nipping the brakes.
I have various bits on order so let's see.
Makes sense, the point being it's more likely to wheelspin in lower gears, meaning more PSM interventions.I have various bits on order so let's see.
I hope the new bits cure things
LennyM1984 said:
It may be worth evaluating your braking technique as well. I see a lot of people braking too much, too soon, or not enough (braking too little to begin with and then too much as the car slows) when on track.
I’m still learning the car so there’s undoubtedly room for improvement as I really gel with it, but saying that I’m not a novice and so I don’t think there’s THAT much to gain here. We’ll see, though - practice makes perfect.Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff