Discussion
Dissolved said:
Excellent, thanks!
No need re. the charger - seems like the battery is coping with a week's inactivity now & it's getting well used at the weekends so should be fine for a bit!
Hmmm... mine was fine, passed its MOT without any issues. 2 days later the battery died having literally started first time in the morning. Following that the battery wouldn't hold a charge. Mine will be staying with the battery conditioner to prolong the battery life.No need re. the charger - seems like the battery is coping with a week's inactivity now & it's getting well used at the weekends so should be fine for a bit!
J-P said:
Hmmm... mine was fine, passed its MOT without any issues. 2 days later the battery died having literally started first time in the morning. Following that the battery wouldn't hold a charge. Mine will be staying with the battery conditioner to prolong the battery life.
I guess you're referring to the original Moll that suddenly died? If so, I believe the crappy Molls are known to suddenly die whether they are trickled charged or not. Mine is still on the Moll but I have a spare battery at the ready for the day when it suddenly gives up.boxsey said:
J-P said:
Hmmm... mine was fine, passed its MOT without any issues. 2 days later the battery died having literally started first time in the morning. Following that the battery wouldn't hold a charge. Mine will be staying with the battery conditioner to prolong the battery life.
I guess you're referring to the original Moll that suddenly died? If so, I believe the crappy Molls are known to suddenly die whether they are trickled charged or not. Mine is still on the Moll but I have a spare battery at the ready for the day when it suddenly gives up.STiG911 said:
boxsey said:
J-P said:
Hmmm... mine was fine, passed its MOT without any issues. 2 days later the battery died having literally started first time in the morning. Following that the battery wouldn't hold a charge. Mine will be staying with the battery conditioner to prolong the battery life.
I guess you're referring to the original Moll that suddenly died? If so, I believe the crappy Molls are known to suddenly die whether they are trickled charged or not. Mine is still on the Moll but I have a spare battery at the ready for the day when it suddenly gives up.Need some help on servicing....
When I purchased the car ~2 months ago, it was serviced (was only due an oil change) but it appears they didn't reset the service notification.
I also somehow either managed to ignore or totally block out the warning when I turned it on.
So now, despite it having had an oil change very recently, is prompting to do it in the next few days.
Can I just take the service book & the car to a local garage & get them to reset it for me? Will I need to slip them a tenner?
When I purchased the car ~2 months ago, it was serviced (was only due an oil change) but it appears they didn't reset the service notification.
I also somehow either managed to ignore or totally block out the warning when I turned it on.
So now, despite it having had an oil change very recently, is prompting to do it in the next few days.
Can I just take the service book & the car to a local garage & get them to reset it for me? Will I need to slip them a tenner?
Dissolved said:
Need some help on servicing....
When I purchased the car ~2 months ago, it was serviced (was only due an oil change) but it appears they didn't reset the service notification.
I also somehow either managed to ignore or totally block out the warning when I turned it on.
So now, despite it having had an oil change very recently, is prompting to do it in the next few days.
Can I just take the service book & the car to a local garage & get them to reset it for me? Will I need to slip them a tenner?
Just phone them up and book a slot to take it back mate. I'm sure they wouldn't even question it.When I purchased the car ~2 months ago, it was serviced (was only due an oil change) but it appears they didn't reset the service notification.
I also somehow either managed to ignore or totally block out the warning when I turned it on.
So now, despite it having had an oil change very recently, is prompting to do it in the next few days.
Can I just take the service book & the car to a local garage & get them to reset it for me? Will I need to slip them a tenner?
V800MJH said:
Dissolved said:
Need some help on servicing....
When I purchased the car ~2 months ago, it was serviced (was only due an oil change) but it appears they didn't reset the service notification.
I also somehow either managed to ignore or totally block out the warning when I turned it on.
So now, despite it having had an oil change very recently, is prompting to do it in the next few days.
Can I just take the service book & the car to a local garage & get them to reset it for me? Will I need to slip them a tenner?
Just phone them up and book a slot to take it back mate. I'm sure they wouldn't even question it.When I purchased the car ~2 months ago, it was serviced (was only due an oil change) but it appears they didn't reset the service notification.
I also somehow either managed to ignore or totally block out the warning when I turned it on.
So now, despite it having had an oil change very recently, is prompting to do it in the next few days.
Can I just take the service book & the car to a local garage & get them to reset it for me? Will I need to slip them a tenner?
I had a look a CR yesterday for sale in grey. Didn't have buckets and was PDK, but did have PCM and A/C so would be what yiu call a comfort spec!
Would I be left with a difficult to sell car in this colour and spec? I certainly liked the car, but realise most people like bright colour manual cars with buckets... it wasn't cheap at 42k either..
Would I be left with a difficult to sell car in this colour and spec? I certainly liked the car, but realise most people like bright colour manual cars with buckets... it wasn't cheap at 42k either..
HKP said:
I had a look a CR yesterday for sale in grey. Didn't have buckets and was PDK, but did have PCM and A/C so would be what yiu call a comfort spec!
Would I be left with a difficult to sell car in this colour and spec? I certainly liked the car, but realise most people like bright colour manual cars with buckets... it wasn't cheap at 42k either..
If I wanted a PDK car I would buy a 981 GTS.Would I be left with a difficult to sell car in this colour and spec? I certainly liked the car, but realise most people like bright colour manual cars with buckets... it wasn't cheap at 42k either..
I would say yes it's a tougher sell a R with PDK and no buckets. but there is a bum for every seat I find.
As for PCM in a 2010 car, it's a really st unit, I would not worry about PCM. I do like BOSE though , many people don't but once tweaked is loads better than Sound pack plus.
I quick like the R in grey myself, works well with the black parts.
HKP said:
I had a look a CR yesterday for sale in grey. Didn't have buckets and was PDK, but did have PCM and A/C so would be what yiu call a comfort spec!
Would I be left with a difficult to sell car in this colour and spec? I certainly liked the car, but realise most people like bright colour manual cars with buckets... it wasn't cheap at 42k either..
I have a meteor CR and its PDK which I bought back end of last year. I think the colour is great with black wheels and then silver mirrors and spoiler. As has been said before plenty prefer manual but personally I wanted PDK. I do have the buckets and PSE. If you like it and like the seats then go for it but don't buy it as any sort of investment. I've bought mine as an occasional car which hopefully won't cost me a fortune in depreciation .Would I be left with a difficult to sell car in this colour and spec? I certainly liked the car, but realise most people like bright colour manual cars with buckets... it wasn't cheap at 42k either..
fridaypassion said:
Don't forget half of all the CRs when new were PDK. Manual box worship is just a forum thing. I'm bout sure why you wouldn't just want the quickest version.
because if you want the quickest you buy a 981 GTS it's a far better PDK system, it's not a forum thing, watch any cars up for sale.the R has a following on manual cars hence why you never see any for sale in that spec very often.
While there is a bum for every seat Manual cars with buckets and Spyder wheels sell faster.
PDK market is pretty dead in older cars imo.
Guys, we all get tuned into the noises our cars make and on the last outings I'm hearing something different. It's a high pitched whistling noise when decelerating from high speed i.e. when braking hard. I'm positive that it's nothing to do with the brakes as it's coming from behind my head rather than from outside. My first thought is that it's excessive intake noise and am going to change the air filter as it's never been changed. My other thought is that it could be the LSD...may be it's already worn out after 30,000 miles?
I have a quick question about track days...
I bought it with the intention of doing 3 or 4 a year, but it's probably going to end up being nearer a dozen (minimum)
As a novice, it is still on the standard pads/fluid, which seem good enough for the 3-4 lap runs I do at a time. Front PS2s are lasting me 4 track days (max -ve camber). Brake pad wear seems very good ATM.
I have a few questions:
1. As I progess and get a bit quicker, then I am assuming that better pads and uprated fluid will be required?
2. How often do you change the oil and brake fluid?
3. What hot tyre pressures do you normally run and what handling balance do you go for?
4. I am assuming that the car can quite easily and reliably put up with a dozen tracks days a year?
I bought the CR as I wanted a mid-engined, RWD car to start doing some track days. Obviously the limits are much lower than something like a GT4 so it seemed like the better option to begin with. But would something like an Exige actually be a 'better' car to be learning with?
Thanks
I bought it with the intention of doing 3 or 4 a year, but it's probably going to end up being nearer a dozen (minimum)
As a novice, it is still on the standard pads/fluid, which seem good enough for the 3-4 lap runs I do at a time. Front PS2s are lasting me 4 track days (max -ve camber). Brake pad wear seems very good ATM.
I have a few questions:
1. As I progess and get a bit quicker, then I am assuming that better pads and uprated fluid will be required?
2. How often do you change the oil and brake fluid?
3. What hot tyre pressures do you normally run and what handling balance do you go for?
4. I am assuming that the car can quite easily and reliably put up with a dozen tracks days a year?
I bought the CR as I wanted a mid-engined, RWD car to start doing some track days. Obviously the limits are much lower than something like a GT4 so it seemed like the better option to begin with. But would something like an Exige actually be a 'better' car to be learning with?
Thanks
nw942 said:
I have a quick question about track days...
I bought it with the intention of doing 3 or 4 a year, but it's probably going to end up being nearer a dozen (minimum)
As a novice, it is still on the standard pads/fluid, which seem good enough for the 3-4 lap runs I do at a time. Front PS2s are lasting me 4 track days (max -ve camber). Brake pad wear seems very good ATM.
I have a few questions:
1. As I progess and get a bit quicker, then I am assuming that better pads and uprated fluid will be required?
2. How often do you change the oil and brake fluid?
3. What hot tyre pressures do you normally run and what handling balance do you go for?
4. I am assuming that the car can quite easily and reliably put up with a dozen tracks days a year?
I bought the CR as I wanted a mid-engined, RWD car to start doing some track days. Obviously the limits are much lower than something like a GT4 so it seemed like the better option to begin with. But would something like an Exige actually be a 'better' car to be learning with?
Thanks
1. I have upgraded pads, braided hose, Castrol SRF, GT3 brake ducts, titanium heat shields and GT3MC (all of which have improved braking performance both in terms of outright stopping power and feel).I bought it with the intention of doing 3 or 4 a year, but it's probably going to end up being nearer a dozen (minimum)
As a novice, it is still on the standard pads/fluid, which seem good enough for the 3-4 lap runs I do at a time. Front PS2s are lasting me 4 track days (max -ve camber). Brake pad wear seems very good ATM.
I have a few questions:
1. As I progess and get a bit quicker, then I am assuming that better pads and uprated fluid will be required?
2. How often do you change the oil and brake fluid?
3. What hot tyre pressures do you normally run and what handling balance do you go for?
4. I am assuming that the car can quite easily and reliably put up with a dozen tracks days a year?
I bought the CR as I wanted a mid-engined, RWD car to start doing some track days. Obviously the limits are much lower than something like a GT4 so it seemed like the better option to begin with. But would something like an Exige actually be a 'better' car to be learning with?
Thanks
2. Oil change every year (around 3 track days per year) - brake fluid also every year (has to be done for Castrol SRF)
3. Never bother with hot temps for the tyres - just keep an eye on them throughout the day and get the tyres filled with nitrogen at Costco
4. Car should easily manage dozen track days a year - just need to keep an eye on consumables (tyres, pads etc)
Would Exige be a "better car"? Hmmm... in some ways - yes it's faster, lighter and more transparent in terms of feedback. But it doesn't have as good an engine as the Cayman - the flat 6 in the R is a much nicer bit of kit. Also, although I would probably have a Sport 380 ahead of an R, I wouldn't have a Sport 350 over the R and the Sport 380 may have more problems getting onto tracks because of noise whereas I've never had an issue in the R. Try one and see what you think?
nw942 said:
I have a quick question about track days...
I bought it with the intention of doing 3 or 4 a year, but it's probably going to end up being nearer a dozen (minimum)
As a novice, it is still on the standard pads/fluid, which seem good enough for the 3-4 lap runs I do at a time. Front PS2s are lasting me 4 track days (max -ve camber). Brake pad wear seems very good ATM.
I have a few questions:
1. As I progess and get a bit quicker, then I am assuming that better pads and uprated fluid will be required?
2. How often do you change the oil and brake fluid?
3. What hot tyre pressures do you normally run and what handling balance do you go for?
4. I am assuming that the car can quite easily and reliably put up with a dozen tracks days a year?
I bought the CR as I wanted a mid-engined, RWD car to start doing some track days. Obviously the limits are much lower than something like a GT4 so it seemed like the better option to begin with. But would something like an Exige actually be a 'better' car to be learning with?
Thanks
1: yesI bought it with the intention of doing 3 or 4 a year, but it's probably going to end up being nearer a dozen (minimum)
As a novice, it is still on the standard pads/fluid, which seem good enough for the 3-4 lap runs I do at a time. Front PS2s are lasting me 4 track days (max -ve camber). Brake pad wear seems very good ATM.
I have a few questions:
1. As I progess and get a bit quicker, then I am assuming that better pads and uprated fluid will be required?
2. How often do you change the oil and brake fluid?
3. What hot tyre pressures do you normally run and what handling balance do you go for?
4. I am assuming that the car can quite easily and reliably put up with a dozen tracks days a year?
I bought the CR as I wanted a mid-engined, RWD car to start doing some track days. Obviously the limits are much lower than something like a GT4 so it seemed like the better option to begin with. But would something like an Exige actually be a 'better' car to be learning with?
Thanks
2: oil every 6 track days, brake fluid I would bleed after every one.
3: by a Pyro they are very cheap and then you can set the pressure for your driving/car set up, plus it will help with mods and how you want to take the car on moving forward.
4: yes
tyrewear due to lack of camber and hot brakes are the main R issues. also have sports mode on if you have it and PSM off.
BubblesNW said:
It seems my old Cayman S (The Unicorn) is for sale again. it's gone up in price too. If anyone wants a CaymanR PDK I would give it serious consideration, PCCB, LSD, buckets, sports exhaust, full leather, Spyder wheels, nav, PASM,, etc
now on 20" wheels and he wants £2k extra to refit the org ones lol.A back ed is a better buy imo and there is a nice one for sale atm a lot cheaper than that and with the correct wheels.
Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff