981 failed mot - ball joints
Discussion
This is how I finally got it off.
I removed the arm completely leaving just the ball joint. The black plastic under body you see was in the way. I just removed the screw from the clip you see and with a bit of persuasion (bending) the arm was free.
This allowed me to get a good purchase with the splitter.
I removed the arm completely leaving just the ball joint. The black plastic under body you see was in the way. I just removed the screw from the clip you see and with a bit of persuasion (bending) the arm was free.
This allowed me to get a good purchase with the splitter.
IanG1 said:
Done a few of these and seem to remember the need for 16mm or 18mm ring spanners for the inner pivot bolt which are odd sizes not normally found in a normal set? worth checking before you start. Also my bottom ball joints were well stuck and needed one of the splitters where you wind a bolt to drive it apart. Even then I needed heat and constant taping with a hammer before they came apart.
Yes that splitter was exactly what I used thanks.No heat and no tapping but I thought the splitter was going to break.
Inner bolt was 18 and 18.
Tuning fork bolt was 21 and 21.
kev b said:
A big thumbs up for persisting and getting the job done ATM.
I dont want to appear all health and safety but when you do the rear you really ought to have something under the feet of those axle stands in case they should start sinking into the tarmac and tip over whilst you are under there.
Good luck with the rears.
Easy tiger - I'm only doing one rear. One front and one rear both passenger side. I dont want to appear all health and safety but when you do the rear you really ought to have something under the feet of those axle stands in case they should start sinking into the tarmac and tip over whilst you are under there.
Good luck with the rears.
Thanks for the safety tip. I was quite careful. I never really got under the car at all. Just stuck my head into the arch above the brake disc. If the car did fall I assumed my back would just have to bend an extra 12 inches - surely that's possible right - maybe not if I'm a powerfully built PH type.
I borrowed the axle stands as I don't have any. My mate kept the sturdier looking ones which had much better looking feet come to think of it.
Yeah I'm feeling pretty pleased with myself overall. Nackered but pleased.
Even if I had ordered 2 arms instead of just the one there's no way I'd be tackling the next one today even though the weather looks nice again.
DJMC said:
Out of interest, is it possible to keep the old arm and just replace the components pressed into it?
I have a vision of Ed China opening a packet he's received in the post with the "push in parts" and showing us how to remove the old ones and press in the new.
I guess this is possible on a lot of cars except... Porsche?
The bushes look fine. I've no idea how they get the ball joint in there in the first place but I guess it's possible. I have a vision of Ed China opening a packet he's received in the post with the "push in parts" and showing us how to remove the old ones and press in the new.
I guess this is possible on a lot of cars except... Porsche?
Lots of info on line about how to change the bushes on a 9x6 arm for something stiffer but nothing about the ball joint AFAIK.
Slippydiff said:
They were the bushes that go in the inner end of the coffin arm and the caster arm bushes that go a third of the way along it's length, not the balljoints. However, I'm sure Baz at Hartech does refurbished arms with replacement balljoints fitted. The balljoints are pressed in IIRC.
I think Baz used to charge 95 quid for refurbed 9x6 arms. I've just bought another new TRW arm for less than 95 delivered.My new TRW arm arrived the same as the front one. I got started and took the old on off. Bad news. The new one doesn't fit. Can you see in the pic how the bushing for the tuning fork is a lot thinner on the old arm. Whoever told me the rears are basically the same as 9x6 and 9x7 arms may have been right. The annoying thing is the alloy casting has the same part number on it. So I assumed it is the same part.
I thought about trying to bend then tuning fork but then thought better of it.
I thought about trying to bend then tuning fork but then thought better of it.
Slippydiff said:
ATM said:
Another 2 hours and the new one is on. Only thing I broke was this headlight level sensor maybe - or is it important like for yaw or what not?
Well done !! It's the headlamp level sensor linkage (assuming you have xenons)
ATM said:
Slippydiff said:
Interestingly there is a similar bracket to this in the rear arm too. Surely there can't be another headlamp level sensor at the back too or is this for something else?Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff