Brake Disc Screws Rusted 987.1 2.7L
Discussion
I've just ordered the silverline impact driver (~£10) and a 2.5lb OX Club hammer (~£10) off Amazon so hopefully does the trick. Thanks for the help all
Would still be interested in view around the electric impact drivers; i'm guessing there's less control so easier to strip the heads of screws?
Would still be interested in view around the electric impact drivers; i'm guessing there's less control so easier to strip the heads of screws?
magycks said:
I've just ordered the silverline impact driver (~£10) and a 2.5lb OX Club hammer (~£10) off Amazon so hopefully does the trick. Thanks for the help all
Would still be interested in view around the electric impact drivers; i'm guessing there's less control so easier to strip the heads of screws?
The De Walt info states " Precision Drive mode offers additional control in screw driving applications to avoid material and fastener damage", I'm just not convinced it's the right tool for the job, that's not to say it won't do it, but it's not THE tool for the job, whereas the "manual" Draper/Silverline hit it with a hammer is, from my perspective, but I was rattling spanners for a living 40 years ago Would still be interested in view around the electric impact drivers; i'm guessing there's less control so easier to strip the heads of screws?
Given the choice. my old fashioned method (taught to me the then apprentice, by a time served often-pissed Irishman nicknamed Paddy, who was an excellent mechanic (not fitter) and did the job right) using a centerpunch and a hammer would always be my first plan of attack. As I've said, it's NEVER failed me, and all too often the disc retaining screws are either seized or have previously damaged heads, or both ....
For the record, I don't have an impact driver of any description, and I've replaced my fair share of corroded Porsche and BMW brake discs over the years, read into that what you will !!
RSTurboPaul said:
If these screws are just to hold the disc in place while you do the wheel nuts up, I'm sure they're not actually needed.
On that basis, no worries if you need to drill the heads off as you can just leave the rest of the screw in the hole and fit the new discs without using the new screws.
I was gonna say the same earlier, I feel as it’s a Porsche one wouldn’t do such things, but the screws haven’t been turned yet On that basis, no worries if you need to drill the heads off as you can just leave the rest of the screw in the hole and fit the new discs without using the new screws.
Slippydiff said:
The De Walt info states " Precision Drive mode offers additional control in screw driving applications to avoid material and fastener damage", I'm just not convinced it's the right tool for the job, that's not to say it won't do it, but it's not THE tool for the job, whereas the "manual" Draper/Silverline hit it with a hammer is, from my perspective, but I was rattling spanners for a living 40 years ago
Given the choice. my old fashioned method (taught to me the then apprentice, by a time served often-pissed Irishman nicknamed Paddy, who was an excellent mechanic (not fitter) and did the job right) using a centerpunch and a hammer would always be my first plan of attack. As I've said, it's NEVER failed me, and all too often the disc retaining screws are either seized or have previously damaged heads, or both ....
For the record, I don't have an impact driver of any description, and I've replaced my fair share of corroded Porsche and BMW brake discs over the years, read into that what you will !!
Many thanks Slippydiff - your responses have gone above and beyond. I'll heed your advice and see how we go!Given the choice. my old fashioned method (taught to me the then apprentice, by a time served often-pissed Irishman nicknamed Paddy, who was an excellent mechanic (not fitter) and did the job right) using a centerpunch and a hammer would always be my first plan of attack. As I've said, it's NEVER failed me, and all too often the disc retaining screws are either seized or have previously damaged heads, or both ....
For the record, I don't have an impact driver of any description, and I've replaced my fair share of corroded Porsche and BMW brake discs over the years, read into that what you will !!
I'm not convinced an (electric) impact driver hits forwards like a hammer drill? I've never noticed the effect and if you think about a self-tapping/cutting screw, surely that would damage the thread it's trying to cut? Are you suggesting that's all the hammers used for, or that in conjunction with rotational torque...?
Does anyone have a video or diagram actually show it doing that? Hammer drills often quote an impact joule rating, impact drivers don't.
My experience is that an impact driver is a good size for DIY, with more than enough torque for driving screws, and with a hex bit holder. Due to the impact mechanism, there's virtually no kickback on the hand so you can focus on ensuring the bit is properly engaged, rather than counteracting the torque as you might with a drill being used as a screwdriver.
An impact wrench has way more torque, a socket attachment and is typically larger.
But both are basically the same tool.
Obviously a manual impact driver is very different - it's designed to take the force you hit it with and convert that to a turning motion, but it's not 100% efficient, so some of the force is travelling along the direction of the fastener, which helps keep the bit seated and is no bad thing.
But if you've got an impact wrench, I don't see the benefit of that when you can just hammer a suitability sized bit (typically torx if you've really wrecked the head) in the bolt head and then try to use the wrench on that - not that that's likely to work in any case.
I had the same problem on my Z4 recently - the first one rounded off using hand tools as soon as I touched it, the second I went straight for an impact wrench and it went the same way.
I removed them using a chisel to tap it round, much like the punch method described above. Dug it one corner, hit straight a couple of times to cut a lip and then at an angle to start to rotate it.
Wrecked them obviously but they came out.
Does anyone have a video or diagram actually show it doing that? Hammer drills often quote an impact joule rating, impact drivers don't.
My experience is that an impact driver is a good size for DIY, with more than enough torque for driving screws, and with a hex bit holder. Due to the impact mechanism, there's virtually no kickback on the hand so you can focus on ensuring the bit is properly engaged, rather than counteracting the torque as you might with a drill being used as a screwdriver.
An impact wrench has way more torque, a socket attachment and is typically larger.
But both are basically the same tool.
Obviously a manual impact driver is very different - it's designed to take the force you hit it with and convert that to a turning motion, but it's not 100% efficient, so some of the force is travelling along the direction of the fastener, which helps keep the bit seated and is no bad thing.
But if you've got an impact wrench, I don't see the benefit of that when you can just hammer a suitability sized bit (typically torx if you've really wrecked the head) in the bolt head and then try to use the wrench on that - not that that's likely to work in any case.
I had the same problem on my Z4 recently - the first one rounded off using hand tools as soon as I touched it, the second I went straight for an impact wrench and it went the same way.
I removed them using a chisel to tap it round, much like the punch method described above. Dug it one corner, hit straight a couple of times to cut a lip and then at an angle to start to rotate it.
Wrecked them obviously but they came out.
magycks said:
How does a manual impact driver with a big hammer compare to an 18V battery impact wrench like the Dewalt DCF887N? Only interested in ability to remove rusted screws
When you use a battery impact wrench you will need to push very hard on the tool or it will just spin and chew the screw head.With a hammer version you get the bit pushed into the screw much much harder so it it less likely to strip the screw head.
To be fair here, if you're replacing the discs, get the caliper out of the way and beat the old discs off from the back. The heads of the retaining screws are so small they'll just snap off without much aggro, and getting the thread out will be easy because they won't be tight anymore. You don't even have to replace the screws if you can't be arsed, the wheels and calipers will obviously keep the discs on! Lots of cars do without the screws.
I'm just in the process of doing mine on my 987, they all came out no bother after getting the right sized screwdriver into them and giving them all a clump with a hammer to shock them, then trying to tighten them slightly before loosening. Never needed more than this. I've had way more aggro with the caliper bolts than them.
I'm just in the process of doing mine on my 987, they all came out no bother after getting the right sized screwdriver into them and giving them all a clump with a hammer to shock them, then trying to tighten them slightly before loosening. Never needed more than this. I've had way more aggro with the caliper bolts than them.
Edited by Heaveho on Friday 5th June 01:07
Heaveho said:
To be fair here, if you're replacing the discs, get the caliper out of the way and beat the old discs off from the back. The heads of the retaining screws are so small they'll just snap off without much aggro, and getting the thread out will be easy because they won't be tight anymore. You don't even have to replace the screws if you can't be arsed, the wheels and calipers will obviously keep the discs on! Lots of cars do without the screws.
I'm just in the process of doing mine on my 987, they all came out no bother after getting the right sized screwdriver into them and giving them all a clump with a hammer to shock them, then trying to tighten them slightly before loosening. Never needed more than this. I've had way more aggro with the caliper bolts than them.
My advice would please do no follow this advice. I'm just in the process of doing mine on my 987, they all came out no bother after getting the right sized screwdriver into them and giving them all a clump with a hammer to shock them, then trying to tighten them slightly before loosening. Never needed more than this. I've had way more aggro with the caliper bolts than them.
Edited by Heaveho on Friday 5th June 01:07
Simply bashing the disc off the hub with a fooking big hammer runs the risk of warping the hub and brinnel the bearings
My advice
I always use my Ryobi Impact driver to remove these, never had a problem even with screws that appear stuck in there. Just make sure you use the right sized bit.
These screws are available from ECP for a few £, just find the right thread size, think the part I got were VW OE parts. No issues whatsoever and certainly no need for them to be from Porsche!
These screws are available from ECP for a few £, just find the right thread size, think the part I got were VW OE parts. No issues whatsoever and certainly no need for them to be from Porsche!
Gixer968CS said:
Use an impact driver. Please! Do resort to any other procedure. If you don't want o buy one (they're not that expensive) then hire one from you local tool hire shop. A good whack with an impact drive will have them out, no question. You'll need new screws but they're pennies.
Especially when you can get a nice solid one from Halfords for £12 with trade card.Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff