Discussion
My sports exhaust was making a rattling noise so popped into Autostrsse and my off side rear box, solenoid arm, has detached itself from the the rear box. I’m told it can’t be welded back and so I will need a new box. The cost of which is approx. £1k plus fitting.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so we’re they able to fix it or did they have to purchase a new box?
Thanks.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so we’re they able to fix it or did they have to purchase a new box?
Thanks.
Andyoz said:
Is it worth getting a second opinion on your existing?
Could be worth while talking to a fabricator to have a look at this.... there are quite a few companies doing valved exhaust systems - so maybe its just a question of cutting out the complete valve assembly and replacing with new? - depending on price might be worth thinking about doing both sides... surely got to be less that £1K or a full new aftermarket system?TDT said:
Could be worth while talking to a fabricator to have a look at this.... there are quite a few companies doing valved exhaust systems - so maybe its just a question of cutting out the complete valve assembly and replacing with new? - depending on price might be worth thinking about doing both sides... surely got to be less that £1K or a full new aftermarket system?
Totally agree but I’m seeing it as an opportunity to upgrade as I may keep the GTS and decline my GT4 PDK allocation. YoungFireOldFlame said:
I like the cultured exotic sports car sound of the PSE but in the 987.2 it just needs to be louder. I like my warranty but have been told changing from the stock exhaust manifold to the Design Tek one would be louder...
I'm switching manifolds on my R for this reason. No warranty though. I like the overall PSE character but just want it louder.If you don't need switchable, make sure you try disconnecting the PSE control in engine bay completely.
Budweiser said:
My sports exhaust was making a rattling noise so popped into Autostrsse and my off side rear box, solenoid arm, has detached itself from the the rear box. I’m told it can’t be welded back and so I will need a new box. The cost of which is approx. £1k plus fitting.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so we’re they able to fix it or did they have to purchase a new box?
Thanks.
I had something similar with my Boxster last year and apparently it wasn't fixable so Porsche changed a fairly large part of the system on both sides, luckily it was under warranty! Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so we’re they able to fix it or did they have to purchase a new box?
Thanks.
Flying machine said:
I had something similar with my Boxster last year and apparently it wasn't fixable so Porsche changed a fairly large part of the system on both sides, luckily it was under warranty!
Yes, you can't buy just the parts local to the PSE actuator.It's the whole things and that's over £1000 per side I think.
Why I'd be double checking it can't be fixed with a tack weld.
I,m hoping to avoid buying a new box also on my 991.1.
One of the valves seized and subsequently damaged the vacuum actuator arm.
I,ve bought 2 new actuator £75 (part no P99111138102 and P99111138201) there left and right handed hence different part numbers.
Changing them looks easy as long as I can free off the seized valve and tack weld the connection onto actuator, same issue as yours.
What I discovered though is that once the vacuum hoses are disconnected it generates a cooling system fault warning on start up.
It will need re programming once the whole job is finished. I’m told most independent can do.
All in all a pain in the arse, my car is a 2015 with only 25k I would have expected the system to be more robust.
I’ll post again when I get round to the job, I’m not hopeful the welded conection will work because the joint will need to articulate.
One of the valves seized and subsequently damaged the vacuum actuator arm.
I,ve bought 2 new actuator £75 (part no P99111138102 and P99111138201) there left and right handed hence different part numbers.
Changing them looks easy as long as I can free off the seized valve and tack weld the connection onto actuator, same issue as yours.
What I discovered though is that once the vacuum hoses are disconnected it generates a cooling system fault warning on start up.
It will need re programming once the whole job is finished. I’m told most independent can do.
All in all a pain in the arse, my car is a 2015 with only 25k I would have expected the system to be more robust.
I’ll post again when I get round to the job, I’m not hopeful the welded conection will work because the joint will need to articulate.
As above ^
Isn't it just a case of cutting out and placing the whole actuator assembly? Just need to find a proper quality one of the correct diameter?
what's missing?
Vacuum hoses can be pulled with no issues if the car is off.... interesting so hear of programming issues... not seen that before.
Isn't it just a case of cutting out and placing the whole actuator assembly? Just need to find a proper quality one of the correct diameter?
what's missing?
Vacuum hoses can be pulled with no issues if the car is off.... interesting so hear of programming issues... not seen that before.
Edited by TDT on Friday 5th February 17:12
I,m hoping to avoid buying a new box also on my 991.1.
One of the valves seized and subsequently damaged the vacuum actuator arm.
I,ve bought 2 new actuator £75 (part no P99111138102 and P99111138201) there left and right handed hence different part numbers.
Changing them looks easy as long as I can free off the seized valve and tack weld the connection onto actuator, same issue as yours.
What I discovered though is that once the vacuum hoses are disconnected it generates a cooling system fault warning on start up.
It will need re programming once the whole job is finished. I’m told most independent can do.
All in all a pain in the arse, my car is a 2015 with only 25k I would have expected the system to be more robust.
I’ll post again when I get round to the job, I’m not hopeful the welded conection will work because the joint will need to articulate.
One of the valves seized and subsequently damaged the vacuum actuator arm.
I,ve bought 2 new actuator £75 (part no P99111138102 and P99111138201) there left and right handed hence different part numbers.
Changing them looks easy as long as I can free off the seized valve and tack weld the connection onto actuator, same issue as yours.
What I discovered though is that once the vacuum hoses are disconnected it generates a cooling system fault warning on start up.
It will need re programming once the whole job is finished. I’m told most independent can do.
All in all a pain in the arse, my car is a 2015 with only 25k I would have expected the system to be more robust.
I’ll post again when I get round to the job, I’m not hopeful the welded conection will work because the joint will need to articulate.
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