Resto/Mod Backdating costs...
Discussion
Prestonese said:
The more I see of these the more I am convinced that all you need is any car from the 70s with a nice solid body and mildly upgrade the engine, tidy up the gearbox, electrics and suspension and job done. They look fantastic as standard and the look can be enhanced just by tweaking the stance. You'll get a lot of notice with these things and the ones with a minimum amount of exterior tweaks will always stand the test of time. A full on resto with bells and whistles doesn't look good value to me unless you plan to be buried in it.
This is basically what I was saying earlier. These cars do exist (especially as a LHD car). You need nothing more than a mildly tweaked engine which admittedly probably does mean an engine rebuild and £25k as mentioned above is probably the number.The irony is that I’ve listened to Richard Turhill and Paul Stephens interviewed over the last year…both have said their favourite cars to drive are the early SWB cars but they both make a living out of building hotrod/restomods. Admittedly Tuthill build awesome cars but they are a totally different price point.
Cheib said:
This is basically what I was saying earlier. These cars do exist (especially as a LHD car). You need nothing more than a mildly tweaked engine which admittedly probably does mean an engine rebuild and £25k as mentioned above is probably the number.
The irony is that I’ve listened to Richard Turhill and Paul Stephens interviewed over the last year…both have said their favourite cars to drive are the early SWB cars but they both make a living out of building hotrod/restomods. Admittedly Tuthill build awesome cars but they are a totally different price point.
Tuthill would be my choice there & PS charge up to £250k for some of their cars as mentioned at the start of this thread . The irony is that I’ve listened to Richard Turhill and Paul Stephens interviewed over the last year…both have said their favourite cars to drive are the early SWB cars but they both make a living out of building hotrod/restomods. Admittedly Tuthill build awesome cars but they are a totally different price point.
Might all mean that buying a little 911T fully restored for 70k is the better idea……
GT3Manthey said:
Tuthill would be my choice there & PS charge up to £250k for some of their cars as mentioned at the start of this thread .
Might all mean that buying a little 911T fully restored for 70k is the better idea……
I'd struggle to get to a place where I would be willing to pay circa £250k, as I'd want near perfection, which then leads to issues about willingness to drive it hard on the road.Might all mean that buying a little 911T fully restored for 70k is the better idea……
Is it the long bonnet (pre-impact bumper) look you are after, and/ or the old school aircooled driving experience?
Wilmslowboy said:
I'd struggle to get to a place where I would be willing to pay circa £250k, as I'd want near perfection, which then leads to issues about willingness to drive it hard on the road.
Is it the long bonnet (pre-impact bumper) look you are after, and/ or the old school aircooled driving experience?
I love the look of the long bonnet cars generally speaking. Is it the long bonnet (pre-impact bumper) look you are after, and/ or the old school aircooled driving experience?
I guess the resto mod idea makes them more of a daily driver
Wilmslowboy said:
I'd struggle to get to a place where I would be willing to pay circa £250k, as I'd want near perfection, which then leads to issues about willingness to drive it hard on the road.
Is it the long bonnet (pre-impact bumper) look you are after, and/ or the old school aircooled driving experience?
Good question. Both quite different in terms of looks and costIs it the long bonnet (pre-impact bumper) look you are after, and/ or the old school aircooled driving experience?
It's partly the modern confusion about the correlation between bhp and fun.
So a lovely light balanced swb or lwb with 150-210 bhp is just such a joy to drive. Get the front and rear grip balanced to give lovely adjustability on the throttle and it's the best ever.
It's not the only formula that works, but it pretty much always works. More of everything, huge bhp, fat tyres stuff springing with no roll is very hard to get to work.
It might have some oomph straight line appeal, but it gets boring very quickly.
Just a point of view!
So a lovely light balanced swb or lwb with 150-210 bhp is just such a joy to drive. Get the front and rear grip balanced to give lovely adjustability on the throttle and it's the best ever.
It's not the only formula that works, but it pretty much always works. More of everything, huge bhp, fat tyres stuff springing with no roll is very hard to get to work.
It might have some oomph straight line appeal, but it gets boring very quickly.
Just a point of view!
BertBert said:
It's partly the modern confusion about the correlation between bhp and fun.
So a lovely light balanced swb or lwb with 150-210 bhp is just such a joy to drive. Get the front and rear grip balanced to give lovely adjustability on the throttle and it's the best ever.
It's not the only formula that works, but it pretty much always works. More of everything, huge bhp, fat tyres stuff springing with no roll is very hard to get to work.
It might have some oomph straight line appeal, but it gets boring very quickly.
Just a point of view!
I agree, you have to be at "feels wrong" corner speed to get it loose. So a lovely light balanced swb or lwb with 150-210 bhp is just such a joy to drive. Get the front and rear grip balanced to give lovely adjustability on the throttle and it's the best ever.
It's not the only formula that works, but it pretty much always works. More of everything, huge bhp, fat tyres stuff springing with no roll is very hard to get to work.
It might have some oomph straight line appeal, but it gets boring very quickly.
Just a point of view!
Wilmslowboy said:
GT3Manthey said:
Tuthill would be my choice there & PS charge up to £250k for some of their cars as mentioned at the start of this thread .
Might all mean that buying a little 911T fully restored for 70k is the better idea……
I'd struggle to get to a place where I would be willing to pay circa £250k, as I'd want near perfection, which then leads to issues about willingness to drive it hard on the road.Might all mean that buying a little 911T fully restored for 70k is the better idea……
Is it the long bonnet (pre-impact bumper) look you are after, and/ or the old school aircooled driving experience?
Ended up with this instead:
1972 RHD 911E - Now a 3.0 RS rep with a 3.8, 350bhp and 950kgs!
The engine has just been built on mine and I doubt you would get much change out of 45-50k to build it to this spec, factor in all the high end parts on it and a rhd 72 base car and I doubt you could build it for less than 200k
Edited by ditchvisitor on Friday 28th January 21:41
LeakUpTest said:
Thank you.
My clocks........1600 quid to paint them. 1600! I just think certain suppliers are making hay at the minute. If someone builds one today, there's zero chance of getting your money back so you'll want to make sure it's right and keep it.
They are perfect. Who did them, could I ask?My clocks........1600 quid to paint them. 1600! I just think certain suppliers are making hay at the minute. If someone builds one today, there's zero chance of getting your money back so you'll want to make sure it's right and keep it.
One of the joys of a car with good ride, raspy engine, low weight and a narrow body, is you can keep the pace up on B and country roads.
No more point, squirt, brake hard, squirt, brake really hard as a car is coming the other way, instead a much more smooth flowing pace.
One of the best driving cars I owned was a Honda ITR, lightweight, n/a revvy engine, sub 200 bhp - my ‘76 has the same DNA , just made 20 years earlier.
No more point, squirt, brake hard, squirt, brake really hard as a car is coming the other way, instead a much more smooth flowing pace.
One of the best driving cars I owned was a Honda ITR, lightweight, n/a revvy engine, sub 200 bhp - my ‘76 has the same DNA , just made 20 years earlier.
Wilmslowboy said:
One of the joys of a car with good ride, raspy engine, low weight and a narrow body, is you can keep the pace up on B and country roads.
No more point, squirt, brake hard, squirt, brake really hard as a car is coming the other way, instead a much more smooth flowing pace.
One of the best driving cars I owned was a Honda ITR, lightweight, n/a revvy engine, sub 200 bhp - my ‘76 has the same DNA , just made 20 years earlier.
I was gutted when I lost out to you on that car! It’s mega! No more point, squirt, brake hard, squirt, brake really hard as a car is coming the other way, instead a much more smooth flowing pace.
One of the best driving cars I owned was a Honda ITR, lightweight, n/a revvy engine, sub 200 bhp - my ‘76 has the same DNA , just made 20 years earlier.
ditchvisitor said:
I was gutted when I lost out to you on that car! It’s mega!
I bid higher than planned, but 9e gave me the nod that it was a good in, known to them, in fact I collected it from their showroom/ workshop.Whilst collecting it the actual technician that did the work came out and walked me round the work done.
Looks like you ended up with a bit more of a wild 350 bhp beast.
Edited by Wilmslowboy on Friday 28th January 21:52
BertBert said:
ditchvisitor said:
See pics above…. Wide bodied, correct bumpers and wing!
And a completely incorrect engine. Quite an important part perhaps?BertBert said:
ditchvisitor said:
See pics above…. Wide bodied, correct bumpers and wing!
And a completely incorrect engine. Quite an important part perhaps?Gassing Station | Porsche Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff