Winter Storage Procedure?

[allister]

Hi Guys

It's coming up to that time of year, when I myself and I'm sure many other F430 owners will be looking to put their cars away for the Winter. My car will soon be getting it's final thorough clean for the year and be placed under it's cover. I already have it connected to a CTEK Battery Conditioner and will be leaving the handbrake off to avoid the brakes sticking on.

I read somewhere that it's also a good idea to leave the tank filled to the top with fuel, has anyone else heard this? and if so, what's the thinking behind it?

Finally, are there any further measures recommended for Winter storage?

Many thanks

Allister

[red_duke]

allister said:

I read somewhere that it's also a good idea to leave the tank filled to the top with fuel, has anyone else heard this? and if so, what's the thinking behind it?

Finally, are there any further measures recommended for Winter storage?

Topping up with fuel prevents moisture forming in the tank.

In addition

• Over inflate tyres to around 50 psi to prevent flat spots
• Ideally have service done to avoid acidic contaminants from combustion in the oil coating metal engine parts

Edited by red_duke on Thursday 12th November 12:14

[petrolpat]

I don't tend to store my 430 over the winter months and if weather conditions are dry with no salt on roads its time for a steady drive. longest time stored last winter due to conditions was approx 3 weeks.

[silber]

As above, I'll always opt for taking the car for a drive every few weeks or so. I manage that even through a Swiss winter, and saves the bother of all the winter 'prep' stuff as well as providing the pleasure of going for a drive in nice crisp air. There will always be a day at some point with positive temperatures and no ice on the road...

Cheers (not a 430, but same perspective)

[sealtt]

Even in the winter the best way is to take it out often enough; give it a good wash and a vac when it needs it; and check the vitals as you always should. The Ferrari techs always say that the better used cars run the best!

That is of course supposing you are going to remain in the UK and aren't jetting off to Florida for the winter months...

[Durzel]

Is overinflating really necessary? Could one not just use those tyre savers you can buy for caravans - like these?

I've heard people talking about fuel additives as well, is this recommended?

[f1ten]

couldn't be without mine during the winter that's just too long to wait to drive it. Oh and I don't like the idea of 4 months down then starting it to find a problem or electric gremilin has creped in.

[mike01606]

Apart from using mine as often as dry salt free roads permit I pretty much do the opposite to the collective wisdom above.

I don't wash it unless I can make sure it's fully dry rather than have it sat stewing in it's juices for weeks.
I leave the tank close to empty and put fresh fuel in every time I go out.
I don't use the cover in winter. I find that even though I have a dry garage attached to the house if I use the cover I get more condensation . Ventilation is your friend and unless it's stored in a bouncy castle it is better to let air circulate.

I also have it serviced before lay up and never run the car unless I can get it up to full temperature for a good few minutes (min 30 minute run) although I do that in summer also.

[allister]

Thank you all for your comments, a bit of a mix really..... If I'm honest, I would rather drive when possible through the Winter months to keep everything moving, the thought of leaving all parts standing for 4 or 5 months makes me think it can only lead to problems. The only trouble is I live in Yorkshire, it's so cold and miserable here, that the council tend to start gritting in August!!

And that's just it, salt is my only real concern - Joking aside, gritting will almost certainly start in November and continue through to March, I've heard many people say salt will rot your car, how concerned should I be?

[dang2407]

Salt on its own isn't too bad. Salt and moisture is what promotes really fast corrosion on steel and aluminium. If the roads are gritted, I take mine out only when the road-surface is competely dry.

People talk of washing their cars, but most do just the top surface. It's pretty much impossible to do the underneath unless you have access to a ramp.

I also bought a humidifier for the garage to take the moisture out the air during those endless soggy days...

[carpov]

I take extra special measures with my 458 spider in the cold, dark winter months:



I leave the roof up.

[allister]

carpov said:

I take extra special measures with my 458 spider in the cold, dark winter months:



I leave the roof up.

Good point.... Do you know what, I think maybe we all worry a bit too much about our cars in the Winter months, maybe just a bit of common sense and assessment of roads, moisture combined with salt (as mentioned above), etc is the answer.

I think I've decided..... I'm going to keep my car on the battery conditioner, avoid salt and moisture when combined, check weather forecasts for all clear before leaving, this should equate to - keeps all moving parts and electrics active and enjoyment when possible!

[Durzel]

carpov said:

I take extra special measures with my 458 spider in the cold, dark winter months:



I leave the roof up.

[Ferruccio]

dang2407 said:

Salt on its own isn't too bad.

Salt is bad stuff on Italian cars in my experience - on the bodywork and the wheels. Best avoided. Though I absolutely agree that cars should be driven on the odd good days across the winter months. Both for the sake of the car and the driver.

[red_duke]

Once the salt goes down in November it's game over for me. Even on dry winter days the salt powder gets wafted into hard to reach places and becomes corrosive at a later date when it gets moist.

I wait for the first spring downpour to wash the roads clean before the Fezza comes out of hibernation.

[berksboy26]

I can see you laughing as I write this but I keep a couple of humane mousetraps in my garage (and not just in the winter) as a few years ago now a mouse managed to find its way up and under the dash on my brand new 328GTB and eat its way through a main loom insulation.It could have caused a serious fire and was luckily repaired by a very sympathtic main dealer.
ATB
Alan

[70proof]

allister said:

t's just it, salt is my only real concern - Joking aside, gritting will almost certainly start in November and continue through to March, I've heard many people say salt will rot your car, how concerned should I be?

There will be rainy nights when the salt is washed away.. If there is a dry patch after, quick run out...

[allister]

70proof said:

There will be rainy nights when the salt is washed away.. If there is a dry patch after, quick run out...

Sounds like a plan!! I take on board what red_duke says though about the dust, I do recall winters when gritting has been quite heavy and the white dust does start flying around. I guess that would be hard to completely clean out from everywhere.

[70proof]

allister said:

70proof said:

There will be rainy nights when the salt is washed away.. If there is a dry patch after, quick run out...

Sounds like a plan!! I take on board what red_duke says though about the dust, I do recall winters when gritting has been quite heavy and the white dust does start flying around. I guess that would be hard to completely clean out from everywhere.

Dust occurs when there is endless gritting with no snow or rain, its dry but a false reassurance... Make the metoffice webpage a sticky and pray for milder rainy nights... My cars have been out every winter on such opportunites

[red_slr]

Salt started quite late this year - only last week in most places.
My advice for any sensitive car is to avoid the roads unless its over 5c at night and there has been 2-3 days of heavy rain and then its dry. Feb can be ok for that. If the temps are anywhere near 2c at night they can often grit. 1c-0c and its almost a cert.