Discussion
Mine is currently mid 70’s
If you would like my opinion, these cars aren’t exactly difficult to clock, and so I’d wager a lot of the lower mileage cars have had this done, and the ones that haven’t, and are genuine low miles, have spent most their lives stored in garages.
The examples of cars which actually get driven, would most likely have had the kinks ironed out, uprated parts fitted etc
If you would like my opinion, these cars aren’t exactly difficult to clock, and so I’d wager a lot of the lower mileage cars have had this done, and the ones that haven’t, and are genuine low miles, have spent most their lives stored in garages.
The examples of cars which actually get driven, would most likely have had the kinks ironed out, uprated parts fitted etc
I'm on 74k odd now and have owned and run it for pushing 20 years and done much of the work myself.
They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
Cactussed said:
I'm on 74k odd now and have owned and run it for pushing 20 years and done much of the work myself.
They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
Useful to know.They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
Why are the wheels hard to refurb? EDIT TO ADD; just worked it out - they are magnesium.
Is it a case that you have to buy parts directly from Ferrari I.e. I guess there is not a German, Swedish and French (gsf) type of aftermarket supplier?
355spider said:
Mine is currently mid 70’s
If you would like my opinion, these cars aren’t exactly difficult to clock, and so I’d wager a lot of the lower mileage cars have had this done, and the ones that haven’t, and are genuine low miles, have spent most their lives stored in garages.
The examples of cars which actually get driven, would most likely have had the kinks ironed out, uprated parts fitted etc
One of the well known Ferrari specialists in the 90s had my car in for a service and asked me if I wanted the speedo cable disconnected. Obviously I said no but the inference was certainly that many of the 355's they maintained had that done as part of the annual. I'd actually forgotten that until this thread it was such a long time ago.If you would like my opinion, these cars aren’t exactly difficult to clock, and so I’d wager a lot of the lower mileage cars have had this done, and the ones that haven’t, and are genuine low miles, have spent most their lives stored in garages.
The examples of cars which actually get driven, would most likely have had the kinks ironed out, uprated parts fitted etc
Cactussed said:
I'm on 74k odd now and have owned and run it for pushing 20 years and done much of the work myself.
They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
What’s yours like on oil?, mines just gone 74k also They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
Cactussed said:
I'm on 74k odd now and have owned and run it for pushing 20 years and done much of the work myself.
They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
Exactly the same here to. I think we bought our spiders about the same time, I have had mine for 20 years to. Very easy to work on and not expensive to maintain and run.They're not difficult to work on generally, so if you're that way inclined it can save a fortune.
There's a decent buyers guide on here with a lot of useful info in the comments attached to it, but its all just age related stuff.
So, belts and bearings as a minimum (although they may have been done).
then its things like bushes (readily available), rubber coolant lines (you can get silicone replacements), condition of rads.
People will bleat about valve guides but at that mileage, if it's not smoking or using excessive oil, just drive it. If they need doing and you're half competent, then they can be done by any machine shop for a LOT less than people say.
Sticky interior bits (easy DIY fix, just takes time and patience).
bodywork you can either leave or address stone chips.
Wheels can be a bugger to refurb but there are places to do it.
At that mileage, many things should have been sorted so it's just keeping on top of maintenance for an old car really. Go through the paperwork.
Check the engine cradle for rust at the bases of the joints.
Spider roof mechanisms can fail so check it works. I think it's a cable that goes?
There's LOADS of useful info and helpful people on Ferrarichat.
For my 2c, if you actually want to use it, you're far better off with a high mileage and well maintained one than a '30k' mile garage queen. they're all old now and stuff needs doing regardless.
So what you wrote I concur with that. I just can't be arsed to write what you did
Thanks for all the replies - all very useful and a reason I like pistonheads!
It still says ‘coming soon’ on the auction but I’m not sure if there is a way to tell when? I’m on holiday soon so I have a feeling I’ll have a couple of days back to try to go view it once I’ve read the description and worked out if/how much I can go to on the car (if this is the right one).
How does everyone get on with the older F1 gearbox? I’m not expecting it to be like the modern stuff but equally don’t want something that I’ll not like. I’ve seen mixed reviews so any comments from those who tried it would be useful. A manual is not possible for me as I just couldn’t fit in the car properly. Thanks!
It still says ‘coming soon’ on the auction but I’m not sure if there is a way to tell when? I’m on holiday soon so I have a feeling I’ll have a couple of days back to try to go view it once I’ve read the description and worked out if/how much I can go to on the car (if this is the right one).
How does everyone get on with the older F1 gearbox? I’m not expecting it to be like the modern stuff but equally don’t want something that I’ll not like. I’ve seen mixed reviews so any comments from those who tried it would be useful. A manual is not possible for me as I just couldn’t fit in the car properly. Thanks!
ollyh1988 said:
. A manual is not possible for me as I just couldn’t fit in the car properly. Thanks!
This does not feel like a good reason to get an F1 - ease of access and long journey comfort would then also come into play surely - happy to be corrected but the 355 F1 being very early can be quite fussy to set up well and drive smoothly - believe someone like QV used to have considerable experience355spider said:
What’s yours like on oil?, mines just gone 74k also
Correction, mins on 70k. Drove it on the weekend,.Hard to tell on oil as my oil lines leak like sieves, which is next on the list to sort out. The garage floor always has oil on it.
So, mine uses a fair bit but I suspect it's leaking rather than burning.
I don't see any blue smoke under hard acceleration.
Mind you, I had an unfortunate incident thanks to a notorious west London based independent, so had a full engine rebuild at 64k miles including new bearings, rings, liners, new valves, guides, rebuilt the oil pump etc etc. So, it's largely a brand new engine now. What I SHOULD have done is get pirtek to sort the oil lines at the same time. Benefits of hindsight etc...
Cactussed said:
355spider said:
What’s yours like on oil?, mines just gone 74k also
Correction, mins on 70k. Drove it on the weekend,.Hard to tell on oil as my oil lines leak like sieves, which is next on the list to sort out. The garage floor always has oil on it.
So, mine uses a fair bit but I suspect it's leaking rather than burning.
I don't see any blue smoke under hard acceleration.
Mind you, I had an unfortunate incident thanks to a notorious west London based independent, so had a full engine rebuild at 64k miles including new bearings, rings, liners, new valves, guides, rebuilt the oil pump etc etc. So, it's largely a brand new engine now. What I SHOULD have done is get pirtek to sort the oil lines at the same time. Benefits of hindsight etc...
Wonder if it will be cheaper than this LHD F1 355, that has less mileage on the clock at £60k too. And it says it's had a recent Camelot change, so maybe there's a Royal connection with King Arthur too?
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/16067451
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/16067451
johnnyreggae said:
This does not feel like a good reason to get an F1 - ease of access and long journey comfort would then also come into play surely - happy to be corrected but the 355 F1 being very early can be quite fussy to set up well and drive smoothly - believe someone like QV used to have considerable experience
It’s a perfectly good reason to get the F1. And the difficulty associated with driving the F1 is a myth. If you can drive a manual, you can drive an F1. People who find an F1 tricky obviously can’t drive. The same applies to Maserati MC shift and Aston Sportshift. ANOpax said:
It’s a perfectly good reason to get the F1. And the difficulty associated with driving the F1 is a myth. If you can drive a manual, you can drive an F1. People who find an F1 tricky obviously can’t drive. The same applies to Maserati MC shift and Aston Sportshift.
Agreed, F1's are fine. I have one on my 360. It took me a good month or so to get used to it, but when you know how they're good.My F355 Berlinetta is from May 95, has done 33900 miles and as others have said, it’s age not mileage which is your enemy. I’ve had it since new and have long settled into a two year oil and filter change and a 4 year engine out cam belt change at which point you do anything which can save you time because the engine is out. In fact, I stretched the cam belt change to 5 years because of COVID. If you go by the book and replace the belts every 3 years, you really are throwing money away because that 3 year interval is based on worst case usage which of course the cars never see.
The thing is, for a car of this age, things are deteriorating due to advancing years and what needs replacing are non standard service parts and everything costs.
Mine was recently at a specialist for the 4 year service and cam belt change. Then there’s the laundry list, things which could leave you stranded by the side of the road waiting for the RAC.
So, here’s just some of the things which needed doing:
- spark plugs/air filters
- cam belts/aux drive belts
- grumbling water pump
- disintegrating cats
- sagging engine mounts
- perishing coolant/power steering hoses
- cam shaft and cam cover oil seals
- cam belt tensioners
The total for this lot was £11,500, parts, labour VAT.
Then there’s the interior. The soft touch finish goes sticky and I have had most of it refinished by a company called Sticky No More in the US. There are of course other companies to do the finishing but I have had good experience with them. This year it was the turn of the heater vents and the aux dial backplate.
The car needs 4 new tyres and the windscreen is delaminating at the bottom. The HVAC doesn’t generate much heat and the service place is all at sea. They wanted to replace the control panel at £2250 + VAT after swapping it over with one from another car. They said that cured the problem but they were wrong. I reverse engineered the panel and it is working fine, the problem is likely with the HVAC ECU which is similar cost. I have replaced one of the 6 motor driver chips and that is showing signs of progress.
I also have a broken wire in the door which is preventing the mirror motor from working. Don’t drop the mirror when you take it off because it’s £3300 if you can get one.
At the next oil service in 2 years, it will need new discs and pads.
It’s just as well the car is thrilling to drive, I have others but I persist with it because it never fails to bring a smile to my face.
The thing is, for a car of this age, things are deteriorating due to advancing years and what needs replacing are non standard service parts and everything costs.
Mine was recently at a specialist for the 4 year service and cam belt change. Then there’s the laundry list, things which could leave you stranded by the side of the road waiting for the RAC.
So, here’s just some of the things which needed doing:
- spark plugs/air filters
- cam belts/aux drive belts
- grumbling water pump
- disintegrating cats
- sagging engine mounts
- perishing coolant/power steering hoses
- cam shaft and cam cover oil seals
- cam belt tensioners
The total for this lot was £11,500, parts, labour VAT.
Then there’s the interior. The soft touch finish goes sticky and I have had most of it refinished by a company called Sticky No More in the US. There are of course other companies to do the finishing but I have had good experience with them. This year it was the turn of the heater vents and the aux dial backplate.
The car needs 4 new tyres and the windscreen is delaminating at the bottom. The HVAC doesn’t generate much heat and the service place is all at sea. They wanted to replace the control panel at £2250 + VAT after swapping it over with one from another car. They said that cured the problem but they were wrong. I reverse engineered the panel and it is working fine, the problem is likely with the HVAC ECU which is similar cost. I have replaced one of the 6 motor driver chips and that is showing signs of progress.
I also have a broken wire in the door which is preventing the mirror motor from working. Don’t drop the mirror when you take it off because it’s £3300 if you can get one.
At the next oil service in 2 years, it will need new discs and pads.
It’s just as well the car is thrilling to drive, I have others but I persist with it because it never fails to bring a smile to my face.
Mark_Blanchard said:
ANOpax said:
It’s a perfectly good reason to get the F1. And the difficulty associated with driving the F1 is a myth. If you can drive a manual, you can drive an F1. People who find an F1 tricky obviously can’t drive. The same applies to Maserati MC shift and Aston Sportshift.
Agreed, F1's are fine. I have one on my 360. It took me a good month or so to get used to it, but when you know how they're good.
The fact the F1 is more affordable is also a bonus here.
ollyh1988 said:
I don’t fit in the manual car - as in my height stops me from being able to drive it - I can’t go for the clutch without hitting my knee against the wheel. It’s still tight with the other 2 pedals but less of an issue. I found the manual 360 a squeeze as well and that felt like a much bigger car inside. That’s one of the reasons I went with a California - because I fit
The fact the F1 is more affordable is also a bonus here.
I'm 6ft 5 and fit very comfortably in a 360 F1. Maybe you should get one of those instead?The fact the F1 is more affordable is also a bonus here.
360 has loads more room inside and the driving position is actually decent rather than offset to hell.
That said, I didn't like it as much. I'm no driving god but the 360 felt like the engine sits higher and is more tricky to hustle?
The 355 just feels like a go kart, with a flattering chassis but older (ie cramped and offset) driving position.
If you're over 6ft, I'd say you'll struggle in a 355 with standard seats. But just my 2c. Where there's a will, there's a way
That said, I didn't like it as much. I'm no driving god but the 360 felt like the engine sits higher and is more tricky to hustle?
The 355 just feels like a go kart, with a flattering chassis but older (ie cramped and offset) driving position.
If you're over 6ft, I'd say you'll struggle in a 355 with standard seats. But just my 2c. Where there's a will, there's a way
Cactussed said:
360 has loads more room inside and the driving position is actually decent rather than offset to hell.
That said, I didn't like it as much. I'm no driving god but the 360 felt like the engine sits higher and is more tricky to hustle?
The 355 just feels like a go kart, with a flattering chassis but older (ie cramped and offset) driving position.
If you're over 6ft, I'd say you'll struggle in a 355 with standard seats. But just my 2c. Where there's a will, there's a way
I'm 6'4. Fit fine but had backache for two days after a Euro trip in a 355 with standard seats. And I was a lot younger then.That said, I didn't like it as much. I'm no driving god but the 360 felt like the engine sits higher and is more tricky to hustle?
The 355 just feels like a go kart, with a flattering chassis but older (ie cramped and offset) driving position.
If you're over 6ft, I'd say you'll struggle in a 355 with standard seats. But just my 2c. Where there's a will, there's a way
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