Challenge Stradale thread
Discussion
Been for a holiday for a couple of weeks and the CS was not on the trickle charger
Went to start it yesterday and no-go
Put it on the charger for 24hrs but again today its not starting. The charger normally shows all lights of the charging stages lit up when finished but this time it is just showing stage one. Looks like battery is not being charged.
Anyone jump started their CS? Where are the terminals.
Got a track day coming up on Thursday so need it up and running
Went to start it yesterday and no-go
Put it on the charger for 24hrs but again today its not starting. The charger normally shows all lights of the charging stages lit up when finished but this time it is just showing stage one. Looks like battery is not being charged.
Anyone jump started their CS? Where are the terminals.
Got a track day coming up on Thursday so need it up and running
355fiorano said:
Happy to say that the battery tenderer finally worked after 2 days !!!
I had looked at Aldous's site about jumpstarting. Still don't understand why you would take the panel off the back of the seat and not jump start direct from the battery on the footwell?
Ignoring the fact that there is a significant risk of damaging an ECU or two from a jump start, jumping from the battery carries an additional risk of shorting the positive cable to the metal bar that runs across the top of the battery.I had looked at Aldous's site about jumpstarting. Still don't understand why you would take the panel off the back of the seat and not jump start direct from the battery on the footwell?
Thanks Voicey 
Have you had any experience of these ECU issues first hand or are you mainly cautious from what people say? I am always a little skeptical in these issues and wonder if its is like the cam belt scam from dealers that tried to implement 2yr change guidance to all ferraris and even on my 308 !!! FWIW I have jump started my 355 quite a few times in the last 15 years of ownership and never had any issues with the ECU. One interesting post i read in forums suggested this issue originated mainly form mains powered jump starting used in workshops leading to the large spike in power on disconnecting and there are no real issues with battery packs.
On a related but separate question. I also sought out to read your "post jump-starting" ECU learning procedure for the 360. That is quite an elaborate process and would be impossible to do in central London. What are the implications of not following this? Will it just take longer to learn or will it bugger it up and need a reset again. I ask as the next time I will drive it is to go to a track day so I do want it running properly.
Have you had any experience of these ECU issues first hand or are you mainly cautious from what people say? I am always a little skeptical in these issues and wonder if its is like the cam belt scam from dealers that tried to implement 2yr change guidance to all ferraris and even on my 308 !!! FWIW I have jump started my 355 quite a few times in the last 15 years of ownership and never had any issues with the ECU. One interesting post i read in forums suggested this issue originated mainly form mains powered jump starting used in workshops leading to the large spike in power on disconnecting and there are no real issues with battery packs.
On a related but separate question. I also sought out to read your "post jump-starting" ECU learning procedure for the 360. That is quite an elaborate process and would be impossible to do in central London. What are the implications of not following this? Will it just take longer to learn or will it bugger it up and need a reset again. I ask as the next time I will drive it is to go to a track day so I do want it running properly.
Edited by 355fiorano on Tuesday 13th March 09:58
The post ECU reset procedure is to put the car through a number of situations that allows it to perform all the checks it needs to do. Let's say you have an alarm for an EVAP leak - you think you have found a split and repaired it but without allowing the car an opportunity to perform another EVAP test you won't know. Simply starting and letting idle won't tell you anything.
If you have simply cut the power then performing the reset procedure is not needed. However there are a few things you want to be mindful of when cutting the power off...
1) As soon as the power is connected the heater mix valve runs a calibration sequence. If you interrupt it by starting the car you can lose heat or cold air. I usually switch the power on and then do something else for 5 mins.
2) The first time the ignition is switched on (engine off) the throttle bodies will calibrate (you can hear them clicking) and the heater flaps will move. Again starting the engine will interrupt these sequences. 10-20 seconds is enough.
3) When the engine is started let it idle for a while - this starts the fuel trim adaption (and variator learning for later cars).
4) Whilst the engine is running the bits like windows, radio code, clock, seats, etc can be sorted (I would also check the EPB if fitted).
5) Switch engine off and lock/unlock to make sure all is working well and that the door handles are working (later cars).
ECU corruption during low voltage starts or from disconnecting the jump pack is a real problem and I make good money from it. At best it can mean something like the instrument cluster needs to be re-programmed and at worst one or more new ECUs.
On the belts, it's not a conspiracy (but I would say that). A 3 year interval is entirely appropriate - I've got tons of videos showing the belts hanging off for many different reasons. I would much rather have the opportunity to make sure the cam drive system is working correctly at regular intervals - there are plenty of other dangers that can lead to engine failure so why introduce another?
If you have simply cut the power then performing the reset procedure is not needed. However there are a few things you want to be mindful of when cutting the power off...
1) As soon as the power is connected the heater mix valve runs a calibration sequence. If you interrupt it by starting the car you can lose heat or cold air. I usually switch the power on and then do something else for 5 mins.
2) The first time the ignition is switched on (engine off) the throttle bodies will calibrate (you can hear them clicking) and the heater flaps will move. Again starting the engine will interrupt these sequences. 10-20 seconds is enough.
3) When the engine is started let it idle for a while - this starts the fuel trim adaption (and variator learning for later cars).
4) Whilst the engine is running the bits like windows, radio code, clock, seats, etc can be sorted (I would also check the EPB if fitted).
5) Switch engine off and lock/unlock to make sure all is working well and that the door handles are working (later cars).
ECU corruption during low voltage starts or from disconnecting the jump pack is a real problem and I make good money from it. At best it can mean something like the instrument cluster needs to be re-programmed and at worst one or more new ECUs.
On the belts, it's not a conspiracy (but I would say that). A 3 year interval is entirely appropriate - I've got tons of videos showing the belts hanging off for many different reasons. I would much rather have the opportunity to make sure the cam drive system is working correctly at regular intervals - there are plenty of other dangers that can lead to engine failure so why introduce another?
Apparently as long as you use proper jump leads from a car or a portable jump starter you won't damage the ecu at all. I spoke with a Meridien modena a few weeks back when my Ferrari charger packed up.
The older ones with multiple lights and just a reset button are complete crap. Upgrade to a modern C Tek as they are great.
Mine took 24 hours to recover from flat as a pancake to starting fine and after a drive it was as normal. Back on a c tek and 2 weeks later started straight away.
I tried jumping it from the passenger footwell but god it's hard to get the leads to clamp on. Why would they not make something easier to clamp onto??!! Beggars belief.
Off to Meridien today for its annual service. They will probably try and persuade me to buy a new battery. Don't think I need one.
The older ones with multiple lights and just a reset button are complete crap. Upgrade to a modern C Tek as they are great.
Mine took 24 hours to recover from flat as a pancake to starting fine and after a drive it was as normal. Back on a c tek and 2 weeks later started straight away.
I tried jumping it from the passenger footwell but god it's hard to get the leads to clamp on. Why would they not make something easier to clamp onto??!! Beggars belief.
Off to Meridien today for its annual service. They will probably try and persuade me to buy a new battery. Don't think I need one.
voicey said:
The post ECU reset procedure is to put the car through a number of situations that allows it to perform all the checks it needs to do. Let's say you have an alarm for an EVAP leak - you think you have found a split and repaired it but without allowing the car an opportunity to perform another EVAP test you won't know. Simply starting and letting idle won't tell you anything.
If you have simply cut the power then performing the reset procedure is not needed. However there are a few things you want to be mindful of when cutting the power off...
1) As soon as the power is connected the heater mix valve runs a calibration sequence. If you interrupt it by starting the car you can lose heat or cold air. I usually switch the power on and then do something else for 5 mins.
2) The first time the ignition is switched on (engine off) the throttle bodies will calibrate (you can hear them clicking) and the heater flaps will move. Again starting the engine will interrupt these sequences. 10-20 seconds is enough.
3) When the engine is started let it idle for a while - this starts the fuel trim adaption (and variator learning for later cars).
4) Whilst the engine is running the bits like windows, radio code, clock, seats, etc can be sorted (I would also check the EPB if fitted).
5) Switch engine off and lock/unlock to make sure all is working well and that the door handles are working (later cars).
ECU corruption during low voltage starts or from disconnecting the jump pack is a real problem and I make good money from it. At best it can mean something like the instrument cluster needs to be re-programmed and at worst one or more new ECUs.
On the belts, it's not a conspiracy (but I would say that). A 3 year interval is entirely appropriate - I've got tons of videos showing the belts hanging off for many different reasons. I would much rather have the opportunity to make sure the cam drive system is working correctly at regular intervals - there are plenty of other dangers that can lead to engine failure so why introduce another?
Thanks voicey. Extremely informative and useful info.If you have simply cut the power then performing the reset procedure is not needed. However there are a few things you want to be mindful of when cutting the power off...
1) As soon as the power is connected the heater mix valve runs a calibration sequence. If you interrupt it by starting the car you can lose heat or cold air. I usually switch the power on and then do something else for 5 mins.
2) The first time the ignition is switched on (engine off) the throttle bodies will calibrate (you can hear them clicking) and the heater flaps will move. Again starting the engine will interrupt these sequences. 10-20 seconds is enough.
3) When the engine is started let it idle for a while - this starts the fuel trim adaption (and variator learning for later cars).
4) Whilst the engine is running the bits like windows, radio code, clock, seats, etc can be sorted (I would also check the EPB if fitted).
5) Switch engine off and lock/unlock to make sure all is working well and that the door handles are working (later cars).
ECU corruption during low voltage starts or from disconnecting the jump pack is a real problem and I make good money from it. At best it can mean something like the instrument cluster needs to be re-programmed and at worst one or more new ECUs.
On the belts, it's not a conspiracy (but I would say that). A 3 year interval is entirely appropriate - I've got tons of videos showing the belts hanging off for many different reasons. I would much rather have the opportunity to make sure the cam drive system is working correctly at regular intervals - there are plenty of other dangers that can lead to engine failure so why introduce another?
So if I get it, all of the above can be done by leaving the car to idle for 5min or so and then switching off ? This is what I know from the 355 that you have to leave it for an extended period to idle so the ECU's calibrate.
What about the instructions to run the car within some rev tolerances while driving (which is the hard bit)? Is that just to help it learn/calibrate other things or to make these calibrations quicker?
355fiorano said:
Thanks voicey. Extremely informative and useful info.
So if I get it, all of the above can be done by leaving the car to idle for 5min or so and then switching off ? This is what I know from the 355 that you have to leave it for an extended period to idle so the ECU's calibrate.
What about the instructions to run the car within some rev tolerances while driving (which is the hard bit)? Is that just to help it learn/calibrate other things or to make these calibrations quicker?
Well the mix valve, throttle and flaps need time to calibrate without the engine being started. Otherwise let it idle for a short period of time so it warms up. Once it is warm enough to run closed-loop then it'll learn the fuel adaptions very quickly during normal driving. By the time you've got oil temperature the engine should be running well and you can open her up.So if I get it, all of the above can be done by leaving the car to idle for 5min or so and then switching off ? This is what I know from the 355 that you have to leave it for an extended period to idle so the ECU's calibrate.
What about the instructions to run the car within some rev tolerances while driving (which is the hard bit)? Is that just to help it learn/calibrate other things or to make these calibrations quicker?
Very interesting appraisal and the early points are very accurate. Once I got mine started I had totally lost hot air in the vents and ended up with a strange clicking noise from the front bulkhead completely attributed to the heater matrix clearly.
It's now in Meriden Modena to see what their assessment is.
Mine is don't trust those useless old Ferrari branded trickle chargers as they are made of chocolate.
It's now in Meriden Modena to see what their assessment is.
Mine is don't trust those useless old Ferrari branded trickle chargers as they are made of chocolate.
So today I managed to answer my question of how loud my Strad really is
The marshals at the track day today measured :
Static @ 6,350RPM (3/4 of max revs) 110db
Dynamic with me short shifting @ 7k RPM 98db
and at one point where on static I bliped the throttle to 7,500RPM it was 116db
Clearly I have no chance in doing anything but unsilenced days as I had feared. On the plus side everyone thought that it was the best sounding car (albeit, there was a Lambo Performante there too that sounded awsome)
The marshals at the track day today measured :
Static @ 6,350RPM (3/4 of max revs) 110db
Dynamic with me short shifting @ 7k RPM 98db
and at one point where on static I bliped the throttle to 7,500RPM it was 116db
Clearly I have no chance in doing anything but unsilenced days as I had feared. On the plus side everyone thought that it was the best sounding car (albeit, there was a Lambo Performante there too that sounded awsome)
"Something to note is that the Stradale is the loudest road going Ferrari ever produced."
https://clubstradale.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1...
https://clubstradale.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1...
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