BMW 330e ordered...
Discussion
Jo330ems said:
0 to 30 is a better test , as its as quick as anything else around you , after 30 the initial torque tails off and then slow but steady acceleration continues, you only achieve speeds above 60 on the flat or down hill. Remember it's a heavy car with only 80hp on the batteries. However i'm sure the engine still starts up in maxedrive if you use kick down /max throttle?
The car never actually lets the batteries run flat , 7% is the lowest i've ever seen so the car produces enough energy to keep an element back for joint power delivery and running other important functions. Even using battery save mode, the car still allows both power plants to maintain performance . It does feel slightly more responsive on a fresh charge but its marginal, the car is quick in any mode or state of battery.
Thanks for your feedback on this; appreciated.The car never actually lets the batteries run flat , 7% is the lowest i've ever seen so the car produces enough energy to keep an element back for joint power delivery and running other important functions. Even using battery save mode, the car still allows both power plants to maintain performance . It does feel slightly more responsive on a fresh charge but its marginal, the car is quick in any mode or state of battery.
I can only speculate at present as I'm still waiting for Delivery Day. Need to get out of this diesel before the Government up the BIK tax!
I read this review from Jalopnik which seems to suggest the car can still achieve around 7 seconds 0-60 without use of the electric motor. If that's correct then that's pretty impressive. It also suggests almost a 20% boost in performance is coming from the electric motor - when it's in use along with the petrol engine. Can't grumble at that!
Here's also hoping that this "Samsung battery shortage" results in Samsung supplying BMW slightly bigger batteries to put in - so I can do my 23 mile commute (each way) to work purely on electric...can but dream
MaxOverdrive said:
Thanks for your feedback on this; appreciated.
I can only speculate at present as I'm still waiting for Delivery Day. Need to get out of this diesel before the Government up the BIK tax!
I read this review from Jalopnik which seems to suggest the car can still achieve around 7 seconds 0-60 without use of the electric motor. If that's correct then that's pretty impressive. It also suggests almost a 20% boost in performance is coming from the electric motor - when it's in use along with the petrol engine. Can't grumble at that!
Here's also hoping that this "Samsung battery shortage" results in Samsung supplying BMW slightly bigger batteries to put in - so I can do my 23 mile commute (each way) to work purely on electric...can but dream
I was under the impression that the car will always kick in the ICE when you give it beans which is why the 0-60 is around 5.7-6.0?I can only speculate at present as I'm still waiting for Delivery Day. Need to get out of this diesel before the Government up the BIK tax!
I read this review from Jalopnik which seems to suggest the car can still achieve around 7 seconds 0-60 without use of the electric motor. If that's correct then that's pretty impressive. It also suggests almost a 20% boost in performance is coming from the electric motor - when it's in use along with the petrol engine. Can't grumble at that!
Here's also hoping that this "Samsung battery shortage" results in Samsung supplying BMW slightly bigger batteries to put in - so I can do my 23 mile commute (each way) to work purely on electric...can but dream
I didn't think if you put your foot down it stays in EV? I know that it will stay in EV up to a certain speed but putting your foot through the kickdown will also cause the ICE to kick in ot give it everything it has.
Also, why are you trying to gun it with EV lol Sport + all the way!
Coyote86 said:
I was under the impression that the car will always kick in the ICE when you give it beans which is why the 0-60 is around 5.7-6.0?
I didn't think if you put your foot down it stays in EV? I know that it will stay in EV up to a certain speed but putting your foot through the kickdown will also cause the ICE to kick in ot give it everything it has.
Also, why are you trying to gun it with EV lol Sport + all the way!
There is a way to do the 0-60 on electric that's a dead cert but it's not that elegant - simply let the petrol run dry I didn't think if you put your foot down it stays in EV? I know that it will stay in EV up to a certain speed but putting your foot through the kickdown will also cause the ICE to kick in ot give it everything it has.
Also, why are you trying to gun it with EV lol Sport + all the way!
As long as there's plenty of battery power and a garage near enough it could facilitate a 0-60 test on electric. I may try this when I eventually get the car. Fingers crossed my license doesn't expire in the meantime - it runs out in April 2027 !
Not sure how Jalopnik did the petrol only test. Unless they themselves didn't and they've been informed of this figure elsewhere?
Timbergiant said:
Does anyone have the BMW connected app set up with more than one car?
I've just been looking at mine and I can't see where you add a car, it's just got my m4 showing.
If you add cars in the BMW Remote App which as + next to vehicle selection, I believe this shows in the Connected app.I've just been looking at mine and I can't see where you add a car, it's just got my m4 showing.
Aj93 said:
Does anyone precondition before they use the car? I only have the 3pin charger at the moment so was thinking about setting the departure time an hour before I actually leave. Would this be enough time for the battery to charge back up again? thanks in advance
Pretty sure this is covered earlier in the thready, buddy. Do a search for precondition and you'll get something.Aj93 said:
Does anyone precondition before they use the car? I only have the 3pin charger at the moment so was thinking about setting the departure time an hour before I actually leave. Would this be enough time for the battery to charge back up again? thanks in advance
So as to be more useful I found previous posts:-"I warm up and charge at the same time. So if I leave the house at 7.15, the car warms up at 6.40. This gives it time to charge back up to 100%, but the car is still warm when I get in. If I set it to warm up at 7.00, I'd be in the same boat as you without a 100% charge. Might be worth a try."
So they are saying that they set the warm up or cool down a bit of time before they leave so they can turn it off and allow the battery to charge back up to 100% again. Doesn't look like it it takes much anyway (6% is what I have seen from full 100% so 94%).
Hope that helps.
Coyote86 said:
Aj93 said:
Does anyone precondition before they use the car? I only have the 3pin charger at the moment so was thinking about setting the departure time an hour before I actually leave. Would this be enough time for the battery to charge back up again? thanks in advance
So as to be more useful I found previous posts:-"I warm up and charge at the same time. So if I leave the house at 7.15, the car warms up at 6.40. This gives it time to charge back up to 100%, but the car is still warm when I get in. If I set it to warm up at 7.00, I'd be in the same boat as you without a 100% charge. Might be worth a try."
So they are saying that they set the warm up or cool down a bit of time before they leave so they can turn it off and allow the battery to charge back up to 100% again. Doesn't look like it it takes much anyway (6% is what I have seen from full 100% so 94%).
Hope that helps.
Aj93 said:
Does anyone precondition before they use the car? I only have the 3pin charger at the moment so was thinking about setting the departure time an hour before I actually leave. Would this be enough time for the battery to charge back up again? thanks in advance
I think an hour would be OTT. I did charge with the 3 pin lead for a few weeks in November when I first got the car, and pre conditioning is better than no pre condition whatever lead you are using. My experience makes me think it's true that a type 2 charger will give you fuller battery for departure time versus 3 pin in the depths of winter, but I doubt it matters that much at other times. You set the departure time - and it starts the pre condition at least 45 minutes ahead of that - so maybe give it another 20 minutes on 3 pin in winter but doubt you even need that at this time of yearAj93 said:
That's really helpful. Thank you Think I will need to allow longer as I only have the domestic charger currently. Think it's useful as it can also precondition the battery pack!
I always precondition when plugged in before departure. At home I just use the 13A charger (car set to the 10A rate), and in the winter I would see about 96% charge at the departure time. Now in the not so cold weather I see 100% charge at the departure time.With the 16A charger at work I always see 100% charge, regardless of weather (so far).
Note that the cabin will continue to be preconditioned up to about 10 minutes after the departure time (to maintain the preconditioned temperature).
Coyote86 said:
I was under the impression that the car will always kick in the ICE when you give it beans which is why the 0-60 is around 5.7-6.0?
I didn't think if you put your foot down it stays in EV? I know that it will stay in EV up to a certain speed but putting your foot through the kickdown will also cause the ICE to kick in ot give it everything it has.
Also, why are you trying to gun it with EV lol Sport + all the way!
In Max eDrive, if you avoid kickdown it will stay in battery only, even in Sport (except if you knock the gear shifter into Sport/Manual). I do keep meaning to time a battery-only 0-60 - just haven't got to do it yet. It feels reasonably brisk, but of course slower above 30 than below.I didn't think if you put your foot down it stays in EV? I know that it will stay in EV up to a certain speed but putting your foot through the kickdown will also cause the ICE to kick in ot give it everything it has.
Also, why are you trying to gun it with EV lol Sport + all the way!
I've also managed 78mph in battery-only mode, which surprised me as I thought it would kick the ICE in above 74. The epower gauge or whatever you call it had all 4 bars lit, so I think the ICE would have kicked in if I'd applied more throttle.
bmwphever said:
In Max eDrive, if you avoid kickdown it will stay in battery only, even in Sport (except if you knock the gear shifter into Sport/Manual). I do keep meaning to time a battery-only 0-60 - just haven't got to do it yet. It feels reasonably brisk, but of course slower above 30 than below.
I've also managed 78mph in battery-only mode, which surprised me as I thought it would kick the ICE in above 74. The epower gauge or whatever you call it had all 4 bars lit, so I think the ICE would have kicked in if I'd applied more throttle.
It's avoiding the kick down though I usually wear my boots. Yeah as for the 74mph before ICE kicks in, I have heard you can alter the speed before it kicks in but can't recall if this was via coding or menu options.I've also managed 78mph in battery-only mode, which surprised me as I thought it would kick the ICE in above 74. The epower gauge or whatever you call it had all 4 bars lit, so I think the ICE would have kicked in if I'd applied more throttle.
My car is at the dealer and stating back end of next week for delivery, but I am seeing if I can go collect it to get it sooner
bmwphever said:
Aj93 said:
That's really helpful. Thank you Think I will need to allow longer as I only have the domestic charger currently. Think it's useful as it can also precondition the battery pack!
I always precondition when plugged in before departure. At home I just use the 13A charger (car set to the 10A rate), and in the winter I would see about 96% charge at the departure time. Now in the not so cold weather I see 100% charge at the departure time.With the 16A charger at work I always see 100% charge, regardless of weather (so far).
Note that the cabin will continue to be preconditioned up to about 10 minutes after the departure time (to maintain the preconditioned temperature).
I say in colder weather setting a departure time and pre-con (cabin and batteries) is a must!!!
Didn't pre-con the batteries y'day when the temp was about 3.0C max and the battery only got me about 10miles max.
So when I charged this morning it said on the app 11miles off 100% (temp was 2.0C). After the battery had pre-conditioned and I started driving, it was saying 16miles. Got 15miles E-Drive over my 22mile journey with 1mile remaining (113mpg), so way better range than a non-conditioned battery!!!
Can anyone answer question regarding heated side mirrors ?
Do they only heat and clear with the engine running.
My morning travel is usually Eco Pro and Max eDrive which maybe why they don't clear or will they heat and clear in Comfort or Sport Modes with Max eDrive ?
Anyone experienced this issue and resolved.
Do they only heat and clear with the engine running.
My morning travel is usually Eco Pro and Max eDrive which maybe why they don't clear or will they heat and clear in Comfort or Sport Modes with Max eDrive ?
Anyone experienced this issue and resolved.
jsp56 said:
Hello!
I'm thinking about buying a 330e and I wondered if I might ask a question? Is it possible to have a 330e serviced by an independent garage mechanic, or do you have to go to the BMW franchise? I can imagine that the BMW garage might be very expensive.
Thanks!
Service interval is 20k miles. Would you seriously think of invalidating a warranty by getting an independent service? Buy the 330e, spend around £500 getting a 50k miles service pack. Then you have a cost of £250 or so per service, an intact warranty and peace of mind.I'm thinking about buying a 330e and I wondered if I might ask a question? Is it possible to have a 330e serviced by an independent garage mechanic, or do you have to go to the BMW franchise? I can imagine that the BMW garage might be very expensive.
Thanks!
What does your independent know about the complex 330e and what does he charge?
Thanks for that. I didn't know there were service packs. Is this what you have? https://www.bmw-service.co.uk/service_packs
Do you find that the costs quoted turn out to be right or do you find huge additional charges added on top for parts and wear and tear repairs and stuff like that?
Thanks!
Do you find that the costs quoted turn out to be right or do you find huge additional charges added on top for parts and wear and tear repairs and stuff like that?
Thanks!
DragonflyTrumpeter said:
Service interval is 20k miles. Would you seriously think of invalidating a warranty by getting an independent service? Buy the 330e, spend around £500 getting a 50k miles service pack. Then you have a cost of £250 or so per service, an intact warranty and peace of mind.
What does your independent know about the complex 330e and what does he charge?
What does your independent know about the complex 330e and what does he charge?
But with the EU block exemption you don't invalidate your warranty by going outside BMW.
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