Mk1 MR2’s?

[Cl4rkyPH]

A couple more have gone up on eBay in the last couple of days, a revision 1 that doesn’t have an MOT (not yet tested due to lockdown) but is priced accordingly (the seller gave me his preferred sell price via PM) and a revision 2 GT which is nice but in Glasgow! Neither are perfect in terms of paintwork/rust but are reasonably priced.

The revision 1 has absolutely all the service history, and is pretty much standard, just no MOT. The revision 2 has very little service history.

Both have honest sellers, both are forthcoming with information, and interestingly both cars are red.

On a side note, one thing I’ve noticed, particularly with the revision 1, is how quickly people bid on these cars, the 1 went up as I was scrawling through eBay, so I was the first one to look at it... within an hour it had about 12 bids!

Still holding out for a revision 3.

[Cl4rkyPH]

Red Devil said:

Revision 1? The car in that e-bay ad is a 1992 K Reg which will be a Rev 2.
If you can get the seller to give you the chassis/frame number (SW20XXXXXXX) off the V5C/VIN plate in the frunk I'll be able to confirm with more detailed info from the Toyota EPC..

The Ct26 turbo on the Rev 2 runs out of puff at the top end compared with the Ct20b on the Rev 3.
The latter will pull to the red line in every gear.

That said, with a 25+ year old car condition is everything. Better to have a decent Rev 2 than a ropey Rev 3!

As for things to look out for, see these links.
https://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your2/mk2/95-mk2-gene...
https://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&...

If you want to hold out for a Rev 3 you'll need to be patient as examples don't come up very often.
People seem to be hanging on to them. Especially the good examples!
It will require keeping a close watch the owners forums and Fleabay/Gumtree/etc in case you miss oneit.

I noticed this wording in the e-bay ad: 'Due to current situation with virus viewing is restricted'.
If that still holds good it's a problem. Buying a car of that age sight unseen is not a good idea.
Photos can only tell you so much.

Another issue would be any lack of a test drive (even if is only as a passenger).
How much is he asking for it? I can't see a figure mentioned anywhere.

Appreciate your response! That car is sold now.

Earlier in the thread you can see we were pretty sure it was a revision 1, the chassis number is SW20/00476554.

That number appears to have one extra digit which confused me a little (12 instead of 11), but that is what is on the V5C.

I presumed the 4 on the end was some kind of other identifier which they included when entering the info on the V5C.

Regarding viewing it, I spoke to him on the phone and the seller was actually happy for me to view it regardless of COVID-19, he put that on the ad as a precaution.

All your others points are extremely helpful, thank you.

All things considered I’m just going to be patient and wait for a revision 3, I’m not in any rush!

Been checking the forums and selling sites daily too, nothing has come up yet but good things come to those that wait!

Thanks for your help.

[Cl4rkyPH]

This one has just came up in the last few hours, bidding strongly already.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324197494637

It’s an honest ad. Not sure how put off I should be by the rust on the doors? How easy is this to repair?

ABS not working either. Seems like it could be an expensive issue to fix.

Edited by Cl4rkyPH on Sunday 14th June 12:45

[Cl4rkyPH]

samoht said:

I'd ask the seller for the registration so you can check the MoT history.

I'm suspicious that the rust could be more widespread, sideskirts are great for hiding rusty sills til you can pass a car on to the next sucker

Not necessarily bad, just would need careful checking, if you view make sure to have a checklist of areas to check for rust.

PS Check out the sticker in the back window

I’ve actually messaged the seller on eBay with a load of questions including the reg, he hasn’t come back to me yet which isn’t a great sign but perhaps he’s busy (or just happy with the current level of bidding).

I get the impression that a lot of these buyers who bid on these unseen probably know the MR2 well (or better than me) and aren’t being as picky as I am.

It does surprise me how expensive these bid up to even with all the listed problems, I’m starting to wonder if I’m going to be able to afford one that’s in good nick.

It’s making the green rev 3 that I viewed a couple of weeks ago (with no service history) looking a bit of a bargain, on the basis that it was in complete working order.

[Cl4rkyPH]

quigonjay said:

You seem to know all the right questions to ask from your previous posts but when my doors where that rusty the sills where equally as rusty so you would need to have a good look underneath. Abs issues can be expensive to fix due to the sensors being tricky to replace, usually means a new/replacement hub. Notice has the rare traction control option which is a bit rubbish, better off just disabling it by removing the fuse.

Thanks to all you guys yes, I’m learning to ask the right questions!

Your comments around the ABS are useful, I might steer clear of this one and let someone with a bit more knowledge take it off his hands.

[Cl4rkyPH]

Red Devil said:

quigonjay said:

Red Devil said:

Revision 1? The car in that e-bay ad is a 1992 K Reg which will be a Rev 2.

You can not just go off the registration with imports as many are registered incorrectly.

I don't know about many but I'm aware it does happen (see below).

Cl4rkyPH said:

Appreciate your response! That car is sold now.

Earlier in the thread you can see we were pretty sure it was a revision 1, the chassis number is SW20/00476554.

That number appears to have one extra digit which confused me a little (12 instead of 11), but that is what is on the V5C.

I presumed the 4 on the end was some kind of other identifier which they included when entering the info on the V5C.

Regarding viewing it, I spoke to him on the phone and the seller was actually happy for me to view it regardless of COVID-19, he put that on the ad as a precaution.

All your others points are extremely helpful, thank you.

All things considered I’m just going to be patient and wait for a revision 3, I’m not in any rush!

Been checking the forums and selling sites daily too, nothing has come up yet but good things come to those that wait!

Thanks for your help.

You're welcome. YHPM.

A couple of anomalies right there. The extra digit can't be correct. Most likely a typo. Paper documents can be defective. The VIN plate would be a better source.
Rev 1 ended in '91 and the chassis/frame numbers (last 5 digits) are 00001 to 59265. However K prefix registrations run from 01/08/92 to 31/07/93.
Again most likely a DVLA error. They may well have used the date of importation rather than date of first registration (in Japan).

If you're planning on getting a MR2 (especially a turbo), I recommend becoming a member of MR2OC/IMOC. I did before buying my first one.
The subscription has been repaid many times over in money saved over the subsequent 14 years. All of my MR2s except that first one have been previously owned by forum members.

samoht said:

Cl4rkyPH said:

This one has just came up in the last few hours, bidding strongly already.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324197494637

It’s an honest ad. Not sure how put off I should be by the rust on the drivers door? How easy is this to repair?

ABS not working either. Seems like it could be an expensive issue to fix.

I'd ask the seller for the registration so you can check the MoT history.

I'm suspicious that the rust could be more widespread, sideskirts are great for hiding rusty sills til you can pass a car on to the next sucker

Not necessarily bad, just would need careful checking, if you view make sure to have a checklist of areas to check for rust.

I've never understood why people feel the need to obscure the VRM. It's hardly a state secret, so what's the point?
It stops a prospective buyer checking the online MOT history. Likewise whether there is any info or negative feedback about the car on the MR2 forums.

I concur about the rusty doors/sideskirts issue. Rust repairs on doors are often ineffective and resurface later on. The cause is blocked drainage holes/channels.
Defective window seals don't help either. Personally I would look for another pair of doors from a car being broken.

Re the non-functioning ABS. Could be a cheap fix or serious money - https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/toyota-mr2-abs-issue...

samoht said:

PS Check out the sticker in the back window

Very JDM. A better pic here - https://images.cdn.circlesix.co/image/1/700/0/uplo...
It was an OEM/dealer option offered in Japan (IIRC around 10% of turbos had them). It's rare on UK imports. I've got one.

That said, aftermarket decals can be found. Occasionally they pop up on Fleabay - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/MR2-MAN-IN-DANDISM-REAR-SC...

The bid is already at £5400 plus it will need more spent on it in rectifying the rusty doors. If the sills are toast as well you're looking at £££.
The clear coat damage is further bad news. Personally I don't think the current bid stacks up. YMMV.

Thanks Red Devil, all comments noted!

Interesting regarding the chassis number isn’t it.

As I said that car is now sold so I don’t want to waste too much time talking about it, but I am keen to find out the deal with that number... it might help me in future.

Here’s a snip of the V5C... I note that the chassis number is made up with the engine number. Is that normal? If not, maybe it points us towards a clue as to what the typo is and/or if that even is the chassis number after all!



If that is normal... I know it would be pure speculation but I’m trying to figure out what the typo would be. At first I thought 5 instead of 55, but then that would mean the engine number would be wrong too.

Then I thought perhaps the first 4 after the zeros isn’t meant to be there but that’s a weird typo... however it would then begin with a 7 and therefore be a revision 2!

I should add that the seller seemed very genuine and was adamant the car was a rev 2.

Unfortunately, despite the seller being very forthcoming with loads of documents and pictures, I never received a picture of the chassis number on the car.

I guess we’ll never know for sure but I’ll at least make sure to double check the chassis number on the car and make sure it has the correct number of digits.

[Cl4rkyPH]

I have messaged him about the car and his answers were honest and he sent me a picture of the chassis number too.

Weirdly the bid of £5400 has been removed. I’m guessing either by eBay, the bidder, or the seller.

With one day left to run on the auction the current bid definitely makes it seem more attractive.