lifepo4 battery howto
Discussion
Some background
The OEM battery in the A110 is a 60Ah ~16kg EFB battery, this is supposedly better at stop/start than the cheapest lead acid but not as good as an AGM battery. But AGM batteries are expensive and offer no weight savings. (They apparently do not get weak after 2 or 3 years, though).
This OEM battery is 190mm high with recessed posts. It is bottom mount, using footings on the base that are gripped by a rear recess, and small front metal plate that is bolted into the very substantial spacious battery tray over the fuel tank.
The form factor is known as BCI Group 47 (DIN H5, L2, EN 55L2).
This is a good page on this battery dimension and alternatives: https://www.batteryequivalents.com/group-47-h5-l2-...
The OEM battery condition is monitored by a Japanese parts bin device that is connected to the ECU, from the (-) post. It contains a complete microprocessor with more memory than my first computer, that senses current, voltage and possibly temperature near the battery.
Interestingly this device is also in Toyota GT86s until it was superseded by a more advanced one in 2017 model year onwards. The more advanced device was marketed by Toyota as being capable of monitoring the condition of the battery more completely and if healthy, the ECU turns off the alternator during acceleration or uses deceleration as an opportunity to top it up. The more advanced device uses LINBUS (one wire canbus) to communicate to the ECU, the simpler one probably does as well. Because it uses linbus it would be very involved to intercept and change any data it sent.
With the device connected the alternator cuts in and out and maintains the battery at about 12.9v.. 12.9v resting is considered full for sealed lead acid batteries. With the device unplugged upon starting the car a white message appears "Check Stop/Start", and it can be dismissed by pressing the left stalk button.
Lifepo4 batteries need 14.5v to fully charge.
Lifepo4 batteries do not work as well in very cold temps. Unlike lead acid, they can be damaged by being charged at -10c or below, (lead acid lose capacity but do not freeze until -60c)
A lifepo4 if correctly maintained lasts considerably longer than a lead acid battery. Even after 1000 near full cycles it can retain 80% of its capacity. Heat during cycling reduces their lifetime.
It also weighs much MUCH less.
A LIFEPO4 battery has a different voltage profile to lead acid. It is fully charged with a resting voltage of 13.6v but is only 20% full at 12.8v. It needs 14.6v to charge to 100%. Its optimal storage capacity for life is 80% (13.3v resting) or less.
To cut to the chase, installing this battery which I purchased from aliexpress from the
"KEPWORTH Motorcycle LiFePO4 Battery Store" for 185 euro, plus 30 euro shipping (by air)
saves over 13kg, and works perfectly (so far). It is a 40Ah LIFEPO4 I can pick it up with one finger.
but the form factor is not ideal, 196*127*202mm, which is 12mm higher, plus the custom sled under it I made, adds more height. It fouls the water line to the wipers but can be slid sideways to help fitment. I will make a different bracket that will be like an upside down U and grip the battery that way. Since the battery is very light the task of holding it securely is easier.
Nevertheless it fits.
With the purchase of this
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005057800182.h...
which you can see I have roughly taped on, I'm able to monitor everything from an app near, or in the car. The app uses bluetooth but the device stores everything second by second so you can connect to catch up on data.
The app has a useful cranking test monitor that displays the voltage sag graph during starting. Each start of the car replaces the current cranking data graph so you can review this any time.
Usually when you stop driving an A110 the cooling fans run for quite some time - sometimes unnecessarily even if one has just dawdles around town for 10 minutes - and this takes out a decent chunk of charge. This is actually ideal because this battery is then left at 80% state of charge in the car after the fans finish.
The OEM battery has a heat rejecting cover. I was concerned that not having the cover would be a problem but the temp monitor shows the battery is no more than 2 or 3c over ambient air.
This may be different if driving at a track so for track use one might consider buying some heat insulating material and wrapping the battery. LIFEPO4 work fine up to 80c or so, the BMS inside may act beyond that temp to cut off output.
Here is the voltage graph on a day with a few very short sequential trips and one 7 hour drive
here is the temp graph. As you can see the peak temp is parking after driving when the air ceases to move around in the front of the car
The battery lives at about 80% state of charge (when parked) and is at 100% (when driving). With sequential short starts (start car, drive for 5 minutes, stop), I could see no impact on state of charge or voltage. The fan draw, and cranking draw is replaced very quickly by the alternator.
If the battery post sense device is reconnected, there is no error message however the lifepo4 is maintained at about 30-40% full. While this is fine, and does not stop the car being cranked normally or used normally, it means fan run-on and vampire drain when parked limits how long before the SoC may fall further to a critical level.
On a long run (5 hours) with the alternator not being throttled, with steady 14.5v, I recorded 50mpg at 60mph and 44mpg at 70mph so I do not notice any extra fuel consumption. Saving over 12kg is also a 1% improvement in performance across the board all other things being equal. In the city at a long stop or jam I'll just turn off the engine if I feel like saving 100ml of fuel
With the OEM stop/start system it tends to restart the engine after a minute anyway because of climate control or draw on the battery.
I expect this battery to last basically forever unless there is an assembly fault (possible, it is bargain priced).
2. the battery came with two copper rings to expand the size of the posts to euro size. I had to Dremel a few mm off one so it would close completely over the (+) peg. These do not grip onto the posts that well so will get some copper adhesive or lead versions that will squash down better.
3. having to press OK on 'check stop/start'.
I think this (unplugging the sensor) is a problem with ANY lifepo4 battery. I don't see anyone with a defeat device for this specific battery post monitor. I enquired from one large US lifepo4 company about install in GT86 and the said they have many satisfied customers and do not have a problem with smart alternators. It may be they have many satisfied customers with 40% full batteries!
4. Form factor. The company I got this from says they cannot make a version that has less height, as the cells inside require this height. I have not asked whether the terminals could be recessed.
Litebox.de (incredible price)
https://liteblox.de/shop/lite_blox-pr60xx-leichte-...
says their form factor is 190mm high but it isn't clear to me that that is to top of terminals or top of box.
Litebox.de also do what many lifepo4 shops do and claim an excessive "pb equivalent" Ah but for this example they are actually selling 37.5Ah.Their battery also weighs 6kg - this one weighs less. About 4kg. tbh I didn't weigh it. Its ridiculously light.
5. Uncertainty. I have only the word of this Chinese company that the battery is 40Ah or 20,000mah cells in 4s2p arrangement. At some stage I may do a discharge test to see if this is true. Since I have the battery monitor I can at least see how long it lasts to 30% full, with a locked car. The OEM battery would last about a month(?) anyway I didn't feel comfortable without a trickle charger. Will update..
6. You need a lifepo4 trickle charger unless you can use the car every month or less. (same as Pb battery). Do not use a lead acid smart charger on a lifepo4 battery as it might have a de-sulfer voltage boost cycle or something else the lifepo4 BMS does not react well to. EDIT: actually you do not need a trickle charger. With the monitor, if you see the battery is down to 50% after, for example, a month sitting unused, just start the car and idle it for a few minutes then stop and check the voltage. A surprisingly short idle is all that is necessary to fully recharge the battery and it is good for another extended sit.
7. lifepo4 are less fire sensitive than lithium polymer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xNjz73p80 however obviously I am trusting the mystery BMS inside not to do something really stupid.
SOC drops very slowly when parked unless you keep returning to the car to wale it up. I think three weeks or so is safe from 80% full. Every time you wake the car by opening a door you are drawing a few percent off the charge.
Recharge is really fast a short 5 minute drive is enough to bring the SOC from 50% back to full.
MORE ON TEMPERATURE
with the trim in place driving at urban speeds and an indicated ambient temp of 39c (very hot day) and an indicated air intake temp of 50c (!) the battery case quickly rose to 62c and showed little sign of stopping I became concerned enough to stop the car and remove the trim piece at which point it quickly declined back to 5c over ambient. The temp is not internal temp but more Close to air temp around the battery.
This kind of temp *reduces the life of lead acid batteries* and insulated foil box or not, the battery is going to rise to this temp or higher as it sits in its enclosed space near the radiator which is at 100c. The plastic trim blocks hot air from escaping. I don't mind driving without the trim. The other option is to punch a grid of holes above the battery area in the trim which will allow airflow.
I checked with the battery manufactuer and they said their battery is ok up to 85c. I still don't like such high temps. Something to bear in mind whatever battery you have.
The OEM battery in the A110 is a 60Ah ~16kg EFB battery, this is supposedly better at stop/start than the cheapest lead acid but not as good as an AGM battery. But AGM batteries are expensive and offer no weight savings. (They apparently do not get weak after 2 or 3 years, though).
This OEM battery is 190mm high with recessed posts. It is bottom mount, using footings on the base that are gripped by a rear recess, and small front metal plate that is bolted into the very substantial spacious battery tray over the fuel tank.
The form factor is known as BCI Group 47 (DIN H5, L2, EN 55L2).
This is a good page on this battery dimension and alternatives: https://www.batteryequivalents.com/group-47-h5-l2-...
The OEM battery condition is monitored by a Japanese parts bin device that is connected to the ECU, from the (-) post. It contains a complete microprocessor with more memory than my first computer, that senses current, voltage and possibly temperature near the battery.
Interestingly this device is also in Toyota GT86s until it was superseded by a more advanced one in 2017 model year onwards. The more advanced device was marketed by Toyota as being capable of monitoring the condition of the battery more completely and if healthy, the ECU turns off the alternator during acceleration or uses deceleration as an opportunity to top it up. The more advanced device uses LINBUS (one wire canbus) to communicate to the ECU, the simpler one probably does as well. Because it uses linbus it would be very involved to intercept and change any data it sent.
With the device connected the alternator cuts in and out and maintains the battery at about 12.9v.. 12.9v resting is considered full for sealed lead acid batteries. With the device unplugged upon starting the car a white message appears "Check Stop/Start", and it can be dismissed by pressing the left stalk button.
Lifepo4 batteries need 14.5v to fully charge.
Lifepo4 batteries do not work as well in very cold temps. Unlike lead acid, they can be damaged by being charged at -10c or below, (lead acid lose capacity but do not freeze until -60c)
A lifepo4 if correctly maintained lasts considerably longer than a lead acid battery. Even after 1000 near full cycles it can retain 80% of its capacity. Heat during cycling reduces their lifetime.
It also weighs much MUCH less.
A LIFEPO4 battery has a different voltage profile to lead acid. It is fully charged with a resting voltage of 13.6v but is only 20% full at 12.8v. It needs 14.6v to charge to 100%. Its optimal storage capacity for life is 80% (13.3v resting) or less.
To cut to the chase, installing this battery which I purchased from aliexpress from the
"KEPWORTH Motorcycle LiFePO4 Battery Store" for 185 euro, plus 30 euro shipping (by air)
saves over 13kg, and works perfectly (so far). It is a 40Ah LIFEPO4 I can pick it up with one finger.
but the form factor is not ideal, 196*127*202mm, which is 12mm higher, plus the custom sled under it I made, adds more height. It fouls the water line to the wipers but can be slid sideways to help fitment. I will make a different bracket that will be like an upside down U and grip the battery that way. Since the battery is very light the task of holding it securely is easier.
Nevertheless it fits.
With the purchase of this
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005057800182.h...
which you can see I have roughly taped on, I'm able to monitor everything from an app near, or in the car. The app uses bluetooth but the device stores everything second by second so you can connect to catch up on data.
The app has a useful cranking test monitor that displays the voltage sag graph during starting. Each start of the car replaces the current cranking data graph so you can review this any time.
Usually when you stop driving an A110 the cooling fans run for quite some time - sometimes unnecessarily even if one has just dawdles around town for 10 minutes - and this takes out a decent chunk of charge. This is actually ideal because this battery is then left at 80% state of charge in the car after the fans finish.
The OEM battery has a heat rejecting cover. I was concerned that not having the cover would be a problem but the temp monitor shows the battery is no more than 2 or 3c over ambient air.
This may be different if driving at a track so for track use one might consider buying some heat insulating material and wrapping the battery. LIFEPO4 work fine up to 80c or so, the BMS inside may act beyond that temp to cut off output.
Here is the voltage graph on a day with a few very short sequential trips and one 7 hour drive
here is the temp graph. As you can see the peak temp is parking after driving when the air ceases to move around in the front of the car
The battery lives at about 80% state of charge (when parked) and is at 100% (when driving). With sequential short starts (start car, drive for 5 minutes, stop), I could see no impact on state of charge or voltage. The fan draw, and cranking draw is replaced very quickly by the alternator.
If the battery post sense device is reconnected, there is no error message however the lifepo4 is maintained at about 30-40% full. While this is fine, and does not stop the car being cranked normally or used normally, it means fan run-on and vampire drain when parked limits how long before the SoC may fall further to a critical level.
On a long run (5 hours) with the alternator not being throttled, with steady 14.5v, I recorded 50mpg at 60mph and 44mpg at 70mph so I do not notice any extra fuel consumption. Saving over 12kg is also a 1% improvement in performance across the board all other things being equal. In the city at a long stop or jam I'll just turn off the engine if I feel like saving 100ml of fuel
With the OEM stop/start system it tends to restart the engine after a minute anyway because of climate control or draw on the battery.
I expect this battery to last basically forever unless there is an assembly fault (possible, it is bargain priced).
- drawbacks
2. the battery came with two copper rings to expand the size of the posts to euro size. I had to Dremel a few mm off one so it would close completely over the (+) peg. These do not grip onto the posts that well so will get some copper adhesive or lead versions that will squash down better.
3. having to press OK on 'check stop/start'.
I think this (unplugging the sensor) is a problem with ANY lifepo4 battery. I don't see anyone with a defeat device for this specific battery post monitor. I enquired from one large US lifepo4 company about install in GT86 and the said they have many satisfied customers and do not have a problem with smart alternators. It may be they have many satisfied customers with 40% full batteries!
4. Form factor. The company I got this from says they cannot make a version that has less height, as the cells inside require this height. I have not asked whether the terminals could be recessed.
Litebox.de (incredible price)
https://liteblox.de/shop/lite_blox-pr60xx-leichte-...
says their form factor is 190mm high but it isn't clear to me that that is to top of terminals or top of box.
Litebox.de also do what many lifepo4 shops do and claim an excessive "pb equivalent" Ah but for this example they are actually selling 37.5Ah.Their battery also weighs 6kg - this one weighs less. About 4kg. tbh I didn't weigh it. Its ridiculously light.
5. Uncertainty. I have only the word of this Chinese company that the battery is 40Ah or 20,000mah cells in 4s2p arrangement. At some stage I may do a discharge test to see if this is true. Since I have the battery monitor I can at least see how long it lasts to 30% full, with a locked car. The OEM battery would last about a month(?) anyway I didn't feel comfortable without a trickle charger. Will update..
6. You need a lifepo4 trickle charger unless you can use the car every month or less. (same as Pb battery). Do not use a lead acid smart charger on a lifepo4 battery as it might have a de-sulfer voltage boost cycle or something else the lifepo4 BMS does not react well to. EDIT: actually you do not need a trickle charger. With the monitor, if you see the battery is down to 50% after, for example, a month sitting unused, just start the car and idle it for a few minutes then stop and check the voltage. A surprisingly short idle is all that is necessary to fully recharge the battery and it is good for another extended sit.
7. lifepo4 are less fire sensitive than lithium polymer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8xNjz73p80 however obviously I am trusting the mystery BMS inside not to do something really stupid.
- Updates
SOC drops very slowly when parked unless you keep returning to the car to wale it up. I think three weeks or so is safe from 80% full. Every time you wake the car by opening a door you are drawing a few percent off the charge.
Recharge is really fast a short 5 minute drive is enough to bring the SOC from 50% back to full.
MORE ON TEMPERATURE
with the trim in place driving at urban speeds and an indicated ambient temp of 39c (very hot day) and an indicated air intake temp of 50c (!) the battery case quickly rose to 62c and showed little sign of stopping I became concerned enough to stop the car and remove the trim piece at which point it quickly declined back to 5c over ambient. The temp is not internal temp but more Close to air temp around the battery.
This kind of temp *reduces the life of lead acid batteries* and insulated foil box or not, the battery is going to rise to this temp or higher as it sits in its enclosed space near the radiator which is at 100c. The plastic trim blocks hot air from escaping. I don't mind driving without the trim. The other option is to punch a grid of holes above the battery area in the trim which will allow airflow.
I checked with the battery manufactuer and they said their battery is ok up to 85c. I still don't like such high temps. Something to bear in mind whatever battery you have.
Edited by a110au on Sunday 2nd April 01:46
Edited by a110au on Sunday 2nd April 01:48
Edited by a110au on Sunday 2nd April 01:59
Great post - really appreciate the knowledge sharing.
I'm sure I'll switch to a lightweight battery at some point but would probably opt for an expensive motorsport-compliant item, complimented by a compatible charger. https://antigravitybatteries.com/productline/start...
I have a 1.1kg LifePo4 motorcycle battery in the race car which will (just about) start a BMW I6 engine. I suspect the correct sizing of a battery for the A110 will be for the engine bay fans.
I'm sure I'll switch to a lightweight battery at some point but would probably opt for an expensive motorsport-compliant item, complimented by a compatible charger. https://antigravitybatteries.com/productline/start...
I have a 1.1kg LifePo4 motorcycle battery in the race car which will (just about) start a BMW I6 engine. I suspect the correct sizing of a battery for the A110 will be for the engine bay fans.
Liam22 said:
Great post - really appreciate the knowledge sharing.
I'm sure I'll switch to a lightweight battery at some point but would probably opt for an expensive motorsport-compliant item, complimented by a compatible charger. https://antigravitybatteries.com/productline/start...
I have a 1.1kg LifePo4 motorcycle battery in the race car which will (just about) start a BMW I6 engine. I suspect the correct sizing of a battery for the A110 will be for the engine bay fans.
Most of the cost of the western "racing" lithium batteries is for marketing, product presentation, support and so on and so forth. And whatever accreditation or homologation they can get through.I'm sure I'll switch to a lightweight battery at some point but would probably opt for an expensive motorsport-compliant item, complimented by a compatible charger. https://antigravitybatteries.com/productline/start...
I have a 1.1kg LifePo4 motorcycle battery in the race car which will (just about) start a BMW I6 engine. I suspect the correct sizing of a battery for the A110 will be for the engine bay fans.
Inside the prettier cases they're buying the same or similar Asia manufactured, pouch cells which by nature have about the same immunity to vibration, orientation, temperature and so on. All that extra revenue has only resulted in one single black box, for BMWs, to trick their "Efficient Dynamics" battery post sensor into keeping their battery topped up. And liteblox charge 200 euros for that extra box.
Regarding capacity, once the engine starts (cold cranking amps rating) the battery capacity is immaterial as everything is running off the alternator.
The run-on fans appear to use about 6Ah of battery capacity, then they're done and the car goes into deep sleep unless you keep opening and closing the doors and keeping the cpus alive (having the car off but alive seems to draw about 5 amps).
Yes, many thanks for this.
My car is now 4.5 years old so I’m in the market for a new battery just in case. I’ll stick with the AGM for the moment but this is hugely helpful.
Here is my original post about the battery- I thought it was an 027 size
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
My car is now 4.5 years old so I’m in the market for a new battery just in case. I’ll stick with the AGM for the moment but this is hugely helpful.
Here is my original post about the battery- I thought it was an 027 size
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by Miserablegit on Tuesday 14th March 08:23
You do not say if the alternator is able to charge at 14.5V but judging from your graphs it is certainly charging above 12.9V so I assume you are getting the battery fully charged while running?
will the 46B24L be a better fit since it is 200mm high rather than 200. weight difference is probably up to half a kilo?
Tx for starting this thread...... antigravity supplies the standard box fit for a price. I love that you have devised a homebrew solution that works as well. Can you show a pic of the fabricated base and posts? Tx
will the 46B24L be a better fit since it is 200mm high rather than 200. weight difference is probably up to half a kilo?
Tx for starting this thread...... antigravity supplies the standard box fit for a price. I love that you have devised a homebrew solution that works as well. Can you show a pic of the fabricated base and posts? Tx
Edited by HokumPokum on Tuesday 14th March 22:40
Edited by HokumPokum on Tuesday 14th March 22:45
HokumPokum said:
You do not say if the alternator is able to charge at 14.5V but judging from your graphs it is certainly charging above 12.9V so I assume you are getting the battery fully charged while running?
will the 46B24L be a better fit since it is 200mm high rather than 200. weight difference is probably up to half a kilo?
Tx for starting this thread...... antigravity supplies the standard box fit for a price. I love that you have devised a homebrew solution that works as well. Can you show a pic of the fabricated base and posts? Tx
ok so: I edited the top of the original post to include a link to the actual DIN 5 battery size that can be clamped by the alpine without mods, and on that page is a link to a lifepo4 from a US store that is din 5 so that is an option if you do not want to worry about clamp solutions. It was $350 usd or thereabouts. If you can get it shipped it would be a perfect solution.will the 46B24L be a better fit since it is 200mm high rather than 200. weight difference is probably up to half a kilo?
Tx for starting this thread...... antigravity supplies the standard box fit for a price. I love that you have devised a homebrew solution that works as well. Can you show a pic of the fabricated base and posts? Tx
Edited by HokumPokum on Tuesday 14th March 22:40
Edited by HokumPokum on Tuesday 14th March 22:45
yes with the sensor thing disconnected the entire 12v bus of the car changes to 14.5v or thereabouts and stays there no matter the revs, so the battery is being recharged to full. I do not see the resting voltage at 100% after turning the car off because the fans run and suck out some power so by the time they are off, things are back down to 81% or so SoC
a U clamp is being printed now actually, I will post some more pics if it fits.
you can feed a small hardware store type tie down strap under the tray (between tray and fuel bladder) and over the top of any lighter battery not clamped at the base, and hold it securely. not a great idea for a 16kg battery especially in a crash but for a light one that would be good enough.
edit: here is the clamp now, it leaves more clearance and I have put back all the trim without issue despite the battery being 20cm high, with posts higher still. In a bad enough frontend crash it might snap. but the battery then can only go forward into the bin and I will have bigger worries anyway.
It will be interesting to see if with trim replaced there will he more heat trapped in this area.
ps: the frunk trim is like a jigsaw puzzle especially reassembling. It is also easy to snap off a clip on the long trim piece below the windscreen.
Edited by a110au on Wednesday 15th March 05:50
yeah its there
anyway its this
https://www.batteryequivalents.com/group-47-h5-l2-...
and on that page is the link to the US battery
of same dimensions
anyway its this
https://www.batteryequivalents.com/group-47-h5-l2-...
and on that page is the link to the US battery
of same dimensions
HokumPokum said:
It might fit but will it work? Max current is 50A according to the specs. Looks like a deep discharge solar battery - not designed for starting engines but I could be wrong.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003212866613.h...
this is closest but i think we'd still need something to tie it down.
this is closest but i think we'd still need something to tie it down.
stay away from storage batteries you need cranking amps.
the kepworth aliexpress shop has that battery 190mm high, plus a recessed-post form factor as well - the recessed post one looks to have the same footing ledge as DIN 5, its probably that size exactly - but at 6kg seem to be heavier than the one I got.
holding any block down on the tray is a matter of buying a thin strip of aluminium or sheet metal and bending 90 degrees using a straight edge a few times to make the right shape,
this is the side profile showing what I mean. If you were to bend some metal in this dimension it would slot in under the ledge at the rear and be clamped at the front and could hold down any size battery.
the kepworth aliexpress shop has that battery 190mm high, plus a recessed-post form factor as well - the recessed post one looks to have the same footing ledge as DIN 5, its probably that size exactly - but at 6kg seem to be heavier than the one I got.
holding any block down on the tray is a matter of buying a thin strip of aluminium or sheet metal and bending 90 degrees using a straight edge a few times to make the right shape,
this is the side profile showing what I mean. If you were to bend some metal in this dimension it would slot in under the ledge at the rear and be clamped at the front and could hold down any size battery.
Edited by a110au on Thursday 16th March 00:13
Edited by a110au on Thursday 16th March 00:17
it is fine.
IF i was going to do it again I would buy a little more capacity, not because of vampire drain - car can sit without charger for weeks and still be 70% full - but because during cranking the instant voltage sag has, twice, put the car into a braindead mode that required a disconnect:reconnect of the battery, to reset.
I also would not use this Chinese Kepworth company their aftersale customer service is zero.
If you can find a suitable lifepo4 battery that is not lying/exaggerating about their specs, its absolutely worth it. imo.
IF i was going to do it again I would buy a little more capacity, not because of vampire drain - car can sit without charger for weeks and still be 70% full - but because during cranking the instant voltage sag has, twice, put the car into a braindead mode that required a disconnect:reconnect of the battery, to reset.
I also would not use this Chinese Kepworth company their aftersale customer service is zero.
If you can find a suitable lifepo4 battery that is not lying/exaggerating about their specs, its absolutely worth it. imo.
yeah it is ridiculously light, and the capacity in terms of actual Ah (not really buying those “pb equivalent” ratings) is more than adequate in terms of multiple starts, or sitting in a garage.
but I do not trust the cranking voltage sag that I log. given the car electronics appear sensitive to brown outs and need hard (disconnect battery) reboots to recover from that.
If you have an option to get more Ah capacity and therefore less voltage dip when pushing start, definitely do that.
but I do not trust the cranking voltage sag that I log. given the car electronics appear sensitive to brown outs and need hard (disconnect battery) reboots to recover from that.
If you have an option to get more Ah capacity and therefore less voltage dip when pushing start, definitely do that.
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