Build your own chassis?
Discussion
Right, basically the difference between welding and brazing is in brazing, you don't actually melt the parent metal, instead you melt the 'braze' which is like using a glue to join the two surfaces together. It has the advantage of putting less heat into the metal than welding, and therefore causes less distortion. Welding is where you actually melt the two surfaces together. You can also use a filler rod to build up the weld.
Of the different types, there's gas welding (Oxy-Acetalene),and MMA (Manual Metal Arc welding). Of the latter there is plain Arc welding where you have a rod coated in the flux (to allow the molten metal to flow), MIG (Metal Inset Gas) which uses a drum of wire which is fed out of the centre of the gun when you strike the arc or TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) where there is simply a Tungsten electrode on the gun and a filler rod can be used. Both MIG and TIG use a gas to stop oxidisation and keep the weld from becoming contaminated.
Anyway, sorry for the lecture, but it might help.
As far a power ratings go, I'm not totally sure, but my advice would be to buy the most expensive model you can. A more expensive model will give a bigger range of current, that way you'll know it will be powerful enough and you can knock the current back until you get a good weld. Too much current and you'll just vapourise the metal.
Hope that helps
Tom
Of the different types, there's gas welding (Oxy-Acetalene),and MMA (Manual Metal Arc welding). Of the latter there is plain Arc welding where you have a rod coated in the flux (to allow the molten metal to flow), MIG (Metal Inset Gas) which uses a drum of wire which is fed out of the centre of the gun when you strike the arc or TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) where there is simply a Tungsten electrode on the gun and a filler rod can be used. Both MIG and TIG use a gas to stop oxidisation and keep the weld from becoming contaminated.
Anyway, sorry for the lecture, but it might help.
As far a power ratings go, I'm not totally sure, but my advice would be to buy the most expensive model you can. A more expensive model will give a bigger range of current, that way you'll know it will be powerful enough and you can knock the current back until you get a good weld. Too much current and you'll just vapourise the metal.
Hope that helps
Tom
Mark, whilst I haven't built one from scratch, my girlfriend did for her race Locost!
With practice, it's not too bad. Beware though that the measurements in the book aren't totally accurate, so be prepared to cut, then re-cut before you get ti right.
Min. rating on a mig welder would be 150. Make sure you get one that feeds the wire properly though as the cheap ones are CRAP!!!
With practice, it's not too bad. Beware though that the measurements in the book aren't totally accurate, so be prepared to cut, then re-cut before you get ti right.
Min. rating on a mig welder would be 150. Make sure you get one that feeds the wire properly though as the cheap ones are CRAP!!!
I have made and welded my own locost chasis it was a cost saving and it didn't take long to do. But if I was doing it again I think I would buy one done. Saying that mine failed SVA on seat anchorage points to low (using a 3 point harness, top anchorage point is to low using spec from book) and steering rack support needs better bracing than road version.
Book gets a bit vague around the transmission tunnel and rear end but its pretty obvious when you stand back and think whats going where.
The main reason I made my own was because I was fitting bike engine so extra brackets were put where required.
Sierra back suspension and diff would also be advisable as live escort is great but limited slip diffs are bloody expensive, and if you've got any half decent engine your need a LSD.
Book gets a bit vague around the transmission tunnel and rear end but its pretty obvious when you stand back and think whats going where.
The main reason I made my own was because I was fitting bike engine so extra brackets were put where required.
Sierra back suspension and diff would also be advisable as live escort is great but limited slip diffs are bloody expensive, and if you've got any half decent engine your need a LSD.
but the kind words keep me motivated. Hi V12 Inside,
I'm v.interested in your Locost Alfa 33 Project. I have a complete 1.7 Alfa 33 with a very sad body and would love to build a 7 rep. How are you going? Have you encountered any major stumbling blocks so far? There doesn't seem to be many people using this doner engine / drivline.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
I'm v.interested in your Locost Alfa 33 Project. I have a complete 1.7 Alfa 33 with a very sad body and would love to build a 7 rep. How are you going? Have you encountered any major stumbling blocks so far? There doesn't seem to be many people using this doner engine / drivline.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
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