Discussion
I've now had my 1979 Taimar for 3 weeks and I have so many questions with so few answers. I'm hoping that I can find someone on here that has some time to give me the benefit of their experience.
First the Weber carb. Idles too fast, can't get it any slower, even tried changing timing. Can't find any place where there are air/fuel mixture screws. Saw some in a picture someplace of another model right where they're supposed to be, but not on mine.
Second, door hinges. My passenger door sags, the car shouldn't have enough use (especially the passenger side) to have worn out the hinges but I have movement and can't seem to get it tight. Is there a bushing in there that it made from an old pbj sandwich that wears out prematurely?
I don't want to overwhelm so that will do it for now. Thanks in advance for any help.
tc
First the Weber carb. Idles too fast, can't get it any slower, even tried changing timing. Can't find any place where there are air/fuel mixture screws. Saw some in a picture someplace of another model right where they're supposed to be, but not on mine.
Second, door hinges. My passenger door sags, the car shouldn't have enough use (especially the passenger side) to have worn out the hinges but I have movement and can't seem to get it tight. Is there a bushing in there that it made from an old pbj sandwich that wears out prematurely?
I don't want to overwhelm so that will do it for now. Thanks in advance for any help.
tc
Hi Thomas,
Can't help you with the carb.
The sagging issue of the door hinge has probably been previously discussed on this forum. They were sourced from the Ford Anglia. It is a metal pin in an aluminum extrusion. They wear-out prematurely. I believe I have resolved the issue as best as I can while still using the original parts. I had the aluminum bored out a little bigger to accept a bronze sleeve. Still using the original pin.
I also feel that the hinge mounts are too close together but that would be a monumental task to rectify.
My doors now open and shut with perfect alignment but I have put a total of zero miles on the car in 6 plus years. Still working on the rebuild. You don't want to rush it.;)
Arthur
Can't help you with the carb.
The sagging issue of the door hinge has probably been previously discussed on this forum. They were sourced from the Ford Anglia. It is a metal pin in an aluminum extrusion. They wear-out prematurely. I believe I have resolved the issue as best as I can while still using the original parts. I had the aluminum bored out a little bigger to accept a bronze sleeve. Still using the original pin.
I also feel that the hinge mounts are too close together but that would be a monumental task to rectify.
My doors now open and shut with perfect alignment but I have put a total of zero miles on the car in 6 plus years. Still working on the rebuild. You don't want to rush it.;)
Arthur
Carb,
Webers do have idle adjust somewhere...er, on the throttle bracket ?
Could be an air leak somewhere.
Mixture just under top of intakes, in the centre ?
(not sure if I'm remembering the right one though ...38DGAS ?)
Doors - I gave up with mine, even with bushing they sagged.
I got so fed up of trying to 'throw' the doors in the hole that I looked for something more 'direct'.
I put a plastic bush on the door surround/body and added a aluminium piece as a slider to lift the door before engaging with lock. Works really well. Bush is about 15-20mm diameter, fairly hard plastic.
(and before anyone says anything.... NO, it's not original, but then, it works ! )
Webers do have idle adjust somewhere...er, on the throttle bracket ?
Could be an air leak somewhere.
Mixture just under top of intakes, in the centre ?
(not sure if I'm remembering the right one though ...38DGAS ?)
Doors - I gave up with mine, even with bushing they sagged.
I got so fed up of trying to 'throw' the doors in the hole that I looked for something more 'direct'.
I put a plastic bush on the door surround/body and added a aluminium piece as a slider to lift the door before engaging with lock. Works really well. Bush is about 15-20mm diameter, fairly hard plastic.
(and before anyone says anything.... NO, it's not original, but then, it works ! )
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 18th December 22:56
Take the carb. off and check that the butterflys are both closing fully. There are two 90 degree toothed cogs that should allow them to close and open together. There is an adjustment screw on the cogs to adjust them if necessary. If they are closing fully when the carb is off then possibly the throttle cable or the linkage is too tight and not allowing them to close when attached. Like someone else suggested it could also be an air leak somewhere. Check that the vacuum advance is connected etc.
Nige
Nige
Good suggestions....but It just occured to me...
It IS the original carb, right ? It should be a 38DGAS. Best to start at the beginning !
Do a search for '38DGAS picture' in Google, it brings up a couple of good diagrams, and one which shows where the mixture and idle screws are, and a disassembly diagram.
Is it one of those ?
It IS the original carb, right ? It should be a 38DGAS. Best to start at the beginning !
Do a search for '38DGAS picture' in Google, it brings up a couple of good diagrams, and one which shows where the mixture and idle screws are, and a disassembly diagram.
Is it one of those ?
First, thanks to those of you who replied. It's does look like a 38DGAS except that I was still not finding the air/fuel mixture screws. Do they screw into a tunnel that is part of the casting?
Something new. Where can I get alignment specs? I've called two local alignment shops and neither one even has the car in their book. Same as TR6?
Something new. Where can I get alignment specs? I've called two local alignment shops and neither one even has the car in their book. Same as TR6?
Thomas,
Congratulations on your purchase. I hope it brings you much joy.
The first picture that comes up in a google image search for DGAS Weber may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=dgas+weber&hl=...
Below are the factory specifications for M series suspension alignment. I have no idea if they are the same for all years of the production run. I stole them from the interwebz without remorse, but will be glad to return them if asked to do so.
Best,
B.
Congratulations on your purchase. I hope it brings you much joy.
The first picture that comes up in a google image search for DGAS Weber may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=dgas+weber&hl=...
Below are the factory specifications for M series suspension alignment. I have no idea if they are the same for all years of the production run. I stole them from the interwebz without remorse, but will be glad to return them if asked to do so.
Best,
B.
tc'stvrinor said:
First, thanks to those of you who replied. It's does look like a 38DGAS except that I was still not finding the air/fuel mixture screws. Do they screw into a tunnel that is part of the casting?
I see from your profile that you're in the US. This is just a guess, but worth a try.A lot of dual choke carbs will fit to the manifold without mods ....so....
Later Euro Fords (2.8 V6 Cologne for example) used Solex carbs with sealing caps over the screws to stop tampering. The Solex looks a bit like the Weber externally.
I don't know if there was a 'federal' version of the 38DGAS with sealing caps, but it's possible.
I know that the jetting for the 2.8 was the same as the 3.0 Essex, so will run OK if it came from, say, a Mustang ?.
There's a 40DFI5 (I think that's right) which is higher airflow carb.
There's the progressive ones, 28/36 DCD (fitted to 4 cyls) but I don't think they will run right.
The advice was to drill out the caps with small drill and use a self tapper to pull the caps out.
Problem is it's hard to know which are the right caps...
I think there used to be rules about breaking the caps in states like California ??
IMHO please stop!!....read the information off the side of the carb (post it here)....IF it it is a standard 38dgas then you NEED to be taught how to bring the auto choke OFF (this hold the revs up UNTIL you press the accelerator fully once the car has started to warm up) IF you have understood the auto choke THEN take the air filter lid of and take pictures and tell us what you see when the engine is running (with a dgas IF you SEE fuel of ANY KIND then the carb is scavenging fuel to allow it to run and there are jets blocked).
AND are the tyres showing the NEED for a set up.... LOOK!! at the tyres, draw/push the flat palm of your hand across the tyre and 'feel for feathering' and look for uneven wear...POST pictures.
Adrian@
AND are the tyres showing the NEED for a set up.... LOOK!! at the tyres, draw/push the flat palm of your hand across the tyre and 'feel for feathering' and look for uneven wear...POST pictures.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 20th December 09:09
Slow M said:
Thomas,
Congratulations on your purchase. I hope it brings you much joy.
The first picture that comes up in a google image search for DGAS Weber may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=dgas+weber&hl=...
Below are the factory specifications for M series suspension alignment. I have no idea if they are the same for all years of the production run. I stole them from the interwebz without remorse, but will be glad to return them if asked to do so.
Best,
B.
B perhaps an edit the 2nd pictorial of deleting washer F ..this washer was NEVER fitted to any M series and people who add them find that it locks out on the top of the internal highs of the thread giving the impression that the adjuster has been locked up correctly!! THEN once you start driving the washer punches down through the thread and leaves the joint loose to work like a hammer driver and breaks the eyelet off the shank..Congratulations on your purchase. I hope it brings you much joy.
The first picture that comes up in a google image search for DGAS Weber may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=dgas+weber&hl=...
Below are the factory specifications for M series suspension alignment. I have no idea if they are the same for all years of the production run. I stole them from the interwebz without remorse, but will be glad to return them if asked to do so.
Best,
B.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 20th December 07:29
Adrian@ said:
IMHO please stop!!....read the information off the side of the carb (post it here)....IF it it is a standard 38dgas then you NEED to be taught how to bring the auto choke OFF (this hold the revs up UNTIL you press the accelerator fully once the car has started to warm up) IF you have understood the auto choke THEN take the air filter lid of and take pictures and tell us what you see when the engine is running (with a dgas IF you SEE fuel of ANY KIND then the carb is scavenging fuel to allow it to run and there are jets blocked).
AND are the tyres showing the NEED for a set up.... LOOK!! at the tyres, draw/push the flat palm of your hand across the tyre and 'feel for feathering' and look for uneven wear...POST pictures.
Adrian@
DiD I jUst gET a bOlloKing oFf AdRIan? AND are the tyres showing the NEED for a set up.... LOOK!! at the tyres, draw/push the flat palm of your hand across the tyre and 'feel for feathering' and look for uneven wear...POST pictures.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 20th December 09:09
Only joking, have a nice Christmas Adrian.
To be honest the OP wanted to know where the adjusters are, and those pictures are OE for a Capri, but I thought they might help.
One of the first things I did with my TVR was throw the OE carb in the bin and fit a DFI5, and have never had a choke.
John.
Edited by GAjon on Tuesday 20th December 13:37
Before you drive anywhere ....put the car on a flat surface, park brake and chock the back wheels, jack the front of the car up, put the front chassis on axle stands....then either with a ball joint splitter release the nuts and split the track rods ends front the control arms (you might damage the rubber boot) OR count the threads showing beyond the lock nut release the lock nut and spin the rod arm out of the track rod ...this will allow the front wheels to splay open ...either with no force OR with the gentlest of help..this will confirm that the brass lower trunnions are not seized...THEN go to the steering wheel and spin the steering wheel lock to lock (again this should be with one finger and OR gentle pressure), this will confirm that the steering is totally free and both the rack, UJ's and chassis bush is all OK. If this is OK then re attach the track rods (recount the threads and this should return the tracking to as was (or if you split the track rod then all will be as was) EITHER post back with results or remedy issues...
That I know of there is no carb book, IF you are running the Webber 38 DGAS with auto choke.... and with the engine off/cold...FIRST go to the pipe below the thermostat housing and release the pipe and check that there is 100% flow through the steel pipe and thus water through to the choke and then check the flow at the connection that drops down behind the manifold and check flow there too..perhaps with a hose, back flush the pipes and maybewith a blunt screw driver open the manifold pipe (as these rust up) reconnect and top up the water system, remove the air filter complete and block the vacuum pipe to the flap system (with another small piece of pipe and small bolt)..press the accelerator pedal to the floor once, and this should close both choke butterflies and give you the current high idle setting IF the choke is stuck it will show at this point....BUT the auto mechanism will be locked into place and UNLESS you have someone pressing full on the pedal you will not be able to play around with the mech. to attempt freeing it up...
PS I have NEVER seen a seized choke system yet...
Adrian@
If the choke butterflies did close fully the the car should start and over the next 5 minutes AND with a few presses of the pedal to release the choke system WITH the water pipes getting hot,the butterflies will start to open ...IF the car revs too hard then at this point unscrew the fast idle screw one full turn NOW and only EVER adjust this when the car gets the FIRST FULL press of the pedal when the engine is fully cold IE TOMORROW (it may take several days to set this) 1200 RPM...
ONCE warm and the choke off look down the throats and at idle you should see nothing happening, if you see dripping fuel then the carb is scavenging un metered fuel and jets are blocked...IE more work...
Try this link for a diagram
http://www.carburetion.com/diags/38DGASDiaginfo.as...
IMHO idle jets should be .50....a .50 drill and a needle file to dress off the old numbers is 100% DIY, so that the guy looking at the jets has to investigate the jets that have no numbers on them.
PS do check that the accelerator jet diaphragm is not leaking as this will over fuel to plus 9% CO YEAH really easy to start but a bugger to keep running once warm and fuel dripping out the pump assembly.
That I know of there is no carb book, IF you are running the Webber 38 DGAS with auto choke.... and with the engine off/cold...FIRST go to the pipe below the thermostat housing and release the pipe and check that there is 100% flow through the steel pipe and thus water through to the choke and then check the flow at the connection that drops down behind the manifold and check flow there too..perhaps with a hose, back flush the pipes and maybewith a blunt screw driver open the manifold pipe (as these rust up) reconnect and top up the water system, remove the air filter complete and block the vacuum pipe to the flap system (with another small piece of pipe and small bolt)..press the accelerator pedal to the floor once, and this should close both choke butterflies and give you the current high idle setting IF the choke is stuck it will show at this point....BUT the auto mechanism will be locked into place and UNLESS you have someone pressing full on the pedal you will not be able to play around with the mech. to attempt freeing it up...
PS I have NEVER seen a seized choke system yet...
Adrian@
If the choke butterflies did close fully the the car should start and over the next 5 minutes AND with a few presses of the pedal to release the choke system WITH the water pipes getting hot,the butterflies will start to open ...IF the car revs too hard then at this point unscrew the fast idle screw one full turn NOW and only EVER adjust this when the car gets the FIRST FULL press of the pedal when the engine is fully cold IE TOMORROW (it may take several days to set this) 1200 RPM...
ONCE warm and the choke off look down the throats and at idle you should see nothing happening, if you see dripping fuel then the carb is scavenging un metered fuel and jets are blocked...IE more work...
Try this link for a diagram
http://www.carburetion.com/diags/38DGASDiaginfo.as...
IMHO idle jets should be .50....a .50 drill and a needle file to dress off the old numbers is 100% DIY, so that the guy looking at the jets has to investigate the jets that have no numbers on them.
PS do check that the accelerator jet diaphragm is not leaking as this will over fuel to plus 9% CO YEAH really easy to start but a bugger to keep running once warm and fuel dripping out the pump assembly.
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 20th December 22:35
Adrian - good advice. I forgot about that damned auto choke business.
(I got a 38DGMS for my 2.8 Granada when the Solex failed, which is the manual choke version, but otherwise identical.)
tc'stvrinor - have you got a pic of the carb ? That's probably the way us forum members can
confirm.
AS I remember, the auto choke is adjustable, but they tended to give trouble after a while anyway, and in the UK at least the manual choke conversion was very popular. (This is ancient history)
Adrain - please correct this if I'm wrong !!
(I got a 38DGMS for my 2.8 Granada when the Solex failed, which is the manual choke version, but otherwise identical.)
tc'stvrinor - have you got a pic of the carb ? That's probably the way us forum members can
confirm.
AS I remember, the auto choke is adjustable, but they tended to give trouble after a while anyway, and in the UK at least the manual choke conversion was very popular. (This is ancient history)
Adrain - please correct this if I'm wrong !!
The shop I spend my days at sells several Weber books.
http://www.books4cars.com/listings.php?findmake=&a...
I'm just North of you, in Seattle; come visit, and give me an excuse to talk TVR and not work.
Best,
B.
http://www.books4cars.com/listings.php?findmake=&a...
I'm just North of you, in Seattle; come visit, and give me an excuse to talk TVR and not work.
Best,
B.
Edited by Slow M on Wednesday 21st December 05:06
What with Christmas and the cold I haven't done much lately. I do have it up on jack stands and am replacing the thermostat. It seemed to never get hot enough and I found that it had a 160 degree thermostat, which could be affecting the choke. I've ordered a book on the carb and think that it will help if it includes enough on this model.
Many thanks again and Merry Christmas to you all.
tc
Many thanks again and Merry Christmas to you all.
tc
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