Discussion
Does anyone have any experience of removing the body from a Taimar.
When all the bolts have been removed and all the wires and pipes have been disconnected, what is the best method of lifting the body off?
How many people will I need to pressgang?
Is there a Knack or is it just a straight lift?
When all the bolts have been removed and all the wires and pipes have been disconnected, what is the best method of lifting the body off?
How many people will I need to pressgang?
Is there a Knack or is it just a straight lift?
I've just done that a few weeks ago. The number of people you need depends a bit on the weight. I removed the glass screans, seats and the fuel tank in the car and just needed two people for the lift. If you have removed all the wiring, the bolts and the stearing you just can lift the shell at the back and shift it backwards. Let the shell sit on the back of the frame above the differential. Then you can lift it off completely. It's easier than you may think, good luck.
Having removed several bodies, this is the method I have succesfully used:-
1) Use and angle grinder on all the body bolts/nuts, you wern't going to re-use them were you?? and it just wastes a whole load of time trying to undo them
2) Disconnect wires, steering column, brake pipes, etc, don't forget the handbrake cable!
3) Remove, bonnet, inner wings.
4) On my Taimar (2 body offs!!) I used to also remove seats and fuel tank to save weight, but left all glass in, if you are going to respray the car then I would remove all the glass as well, if not then leave it in, we left doors on as well.
5) Using a trolley jack and a large piece of wood to spread the load, jack the car up on the fibre glass under where the fuel tank used to be abour 2-3 ins
6) Shove a piece of timber (or scaffold pole) through the top of the rear wheel arches above the chassis.
7) Get four big lads, put your tall ones at the back, stand them on breeze blocks if you have any around to give a bit of extra height, the two at the back use the timber/scaffold pole and two more at the front.
8) Do not lift yourself, you may put your back out and anyway somebody has to supervise and ensure that nothing is still connected!!
9) As hansgerd says, it is then a two stage lift, angled backwards, there is a convinient resting point when the door section is above the rear diff chassis framework.
10) Put body down on drive/garden, etc on some timber to keep it off the ground. I managed to sure the body against damage, falling tiles, etc as an extension on my household insurance policy!!!
11) Buy the four big lads a beer and a curry, this is essential otherwise the b*gg*ers won't help you put it back on afterwards
davidy
1) Use and angle grinder on all the body bolts/nuts, you wern't going to re-use them were you?? and it just wastes a whole load of time trying to undo them
2) Disconnect wires, steering column, brake pipes, etc, don't forget the handbrake cable!
3) Remove, bonnet, inner wings.
4) On my Taimar (2 body offs!!) I used to also remove seats and fuel tank to save weight, but left all glass in, if you are going to respray the car then I would remove all the glass as well, if not then leave it in, we left doors on as well.
5) Using a trolley jack and a large piece of wood to spread the load, jack the car up on the fibre glass under where the fuel tank used to be abour 2-3 ins
6) Shove a piece of timber (or scaffold pole) through the top of the rear wheel arches above the chassis.
7) Get four big lads, put your tall ones at the back, stand them on breeze blocks if you have any around to give a bit of extra height, the two at the back use the timber/scaffold pole and two more at the front.
8) Do not lift yourself, you may put your back out and anyway somebody has to supervise and ensure that nothing is still connected!!
9) As hansgerd says, it is then a two stage lift, angled backwards, there is a convinient resting point when the door section is above the rear diff chassis framework.
10) Put body down on drive/garden, etc on some timber to keep it off the ground. I managed to sure the body against damage, falling tiles, etc as an extension on my household insurance policy!!!
11) Buy the four big lads a beer and a curry, this is essential otherwise the b*gg*ers won't help you put it back on afterwards
davidy
There was a recent thread here about chassis paint...
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=12523&f=11&h=0
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=12523&f=11&h=0
Oh yes (or better NO), I forgot one important bit. Make sure you unbolt the bit where the harness is connected to the frame. It's a S shaped metal frame on both sides, left and right. I didn't see it at first and it took me some re-thinking to come over it. It's the metal bit hidden in the rear wing. If it's not rotten away, unbolt it before you lift the body. Otherwise the section of the frame over the diff is not plain and you have to lift the shell off in one move (which is quite a job. You really have to serve beer and curry afterwards). If you need fotos of my lift mail me at hansgerd@excite.com.
BTW, all chassis bolts came off quite easily on my 1978 3000M with a bit of anti-rust spray. The bolts were rusty but I left the oil for a week and afterwards the bolds weren't a big job. I wouldn't take the angle grinder to cut them off, the frame might suffer. Try the bolts with some spray and if they don't come off then use the force, good luck, I hope it helps.
BTW, all chassis bolts came off quite easily on my 1978 3000M with a bit of anti-rust spray. The bolts were rusty but I left the oil for a week and afterwards the bolds weren't a big job. I wouldn't take the angle grinder to cut them off, the frame might suffer. Try the bolts with some spray and if they don't come off then use the force, good luck, I hope it helps.
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