Restoring / Rewiring Pre 80s TVRs
Discussion
I took the stabilizer out and rerouted the cables as follows.
yellow/white to bleu indication in MPH meter
yellow to amp meter
brown from starter solenoid to amp meter same side as yellow wire
bleu /brown wire from amp meter 1 to contact and 1 as main feed for 12 blade fuse box feeding all equipement.
Everything works fine, but reading amp meter never gets positive.
Needle moves when power is used.
Voltage of battery stays 16.
Whats wrong??
Hans
yellow/white to bleu indication in MPH meter
yellow to amp meter
brown from starter solenoid to amp meter same side as yellow wire
bleu /brown wire from amp meter 1 to contact and 1 as main feed for 12 blade fuse box feeding all equipement.
Everything works fine, but reading amp meter never gets positive.
Needle moves when power is used.
Voltage of battery stays 16.
Whats wrong??
Hans
madsvlund said:
The big question.... where to buy 10x10mm decals/silver stickers with function logo's ?
This any use?http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/rally/dash-displays...
Best £27 I ever spent.
If you're looking for a temporary fix this is it.
Perhaps buy two:
Use one in the car
Take the spare's sender and ship that with the original gauge to a gauge recondiditoner ( speedycables for example) then you will have a guage with a sender that will work correctly.
An alternative if you have loads of time is to use a magic box from Spiyda Design and manually configure the magic box to convert the signal from the sender to the gauge.
Personally - I'm using the Durite for the time being; then I will send a Durite send with the original gauge to speedycables and have them sort this out for me - probably for spring next year.
If you're looking for a temporary fix this is it.
Perhaps buy two:
Use one in the car
Take the spare's sender and ship that with the original gauge to a gauge recondiditoner ( speedycables for example) then you will have a guage with a sender that will work correctly.
An alternative if you have loads of time is to use a magic box from Spiyda Design and manually configure the magic box to convert the signal from the sender to the gauge.
Personally - I'm using the Durite for the time being; then I will send a Durite send with the original gauge to speedycables and have them sort this out for me - probably for spring next year.
phillpot said:
Give it that "classic look"..... 
In the US, the rocker switch for the hazards were labeled using this device. It results in a peace of tape with white raised letters on it. It was stock this way from the factory. I love it!!! I know this was on all US cars were the UK cars hazards labeled this way?
I think they were made by Dymo (company still exists).
280i said:
In the US, the rocker switch for the hazards were labeled using this device. It results in a peace of tape with white raised letters on it.
It was stock this way from the factory. I love it!!! I know this was on all US cars were the UK cars hazards labeled this way?
I think they were made by Dymo (company still exists).
Yep deffo a Dymo machine. Everyone had one in the 70s!It was stock this way from the factory. I love it!!! I know this was on all US cars were the UK cars hazards labeled this way?
I think they were made by Dymo (company still exists).
280i said:
phillpot said:
In the US, the rocker switch for the hazards were labeled using this device. It results in a peace of tape with white raised letters on it. It was stock this way from the factory. I love it!!! I know this was on all US cars were the UK cars hazards labeled this way?
I think they were made by Dymo (company still exists).
Yes, the UK cars hazard light switches were labelled with the dymo tape. The switch panels were labelled from earlier models and the hazard switch is actually labelled reverse under the dymo label that was just stuck on. Cheaper and easier than ordering new switch panels! This is the case with the UK Vixen 2500 anyway.
tyracious said:
Dollyman1850 said:
Disappointing. The fuses should be pop outs 
N.
I take it you mean automotive circuit breakers.N.
Good idea.
You'd know immediately which circuit has the problem + a quick reset capability.
Am I on right track here?
Anyway, as ever the theory drives the practice
Circuit breakers aren't a good idea
From an earlier study and posted to another topic......The proof is in the pudding
See below
Couldn't help but notice that what appeared to be thermal breakers were used rather than blade fuses, simply felt that you might benefit from my observation. I have nothing to gain, you do though
Thermal circuit breakers aren't the safest and most reliable way to protect your vehicles circuits, mentioning aircraft circuits doesn't alter anything
Thermal circuit breakers are slow blow and can be the ideal solution for protecting motor circuits that tend to momentarily draw a higher current at start-up than when up to operating speed
They look like Klixon circuit breakers, are they?
You may be interested in the below information that shows the big differences between Klixon 7274 circuit breakers (many other breakers are slower blow) and standard ATO blade fuses
Using 10 Amp specification for breaker and blade fuses @ twice the normal current being drawn (20 Amps through 10 Amp protection)
The blade fuse will blow in 0.5 of a second (Manufacturer Littlefuse states .15 sec., Min.; 5 sec., Max.)
The Klixon circuit breaker will trip in 2 to 20 seconds
As can be seen, there is a massive difference between blade and circuit breaker
Blade ATO fuse 0.15 secs min/5 secs max
Klixon circuit breaker 2 secs min/20 secs max
There's more and it matters much - Voltage Drop across protection
Blade ATO 10 Amp fuses have a volt-drop of 0.109 volts @ 10 Amps
Klixon 10 Amp breakers have a volt-drop of 0.28 volts @ 10 Amps
Hoping that you enjoy reading through the above information and possibly benefit from it
Your car is beautiful
Polly Grigora said:
Pretty sure the post was a joke
Anyway, as ever the theory drives the practice
Circuit breakers aren't a good idea
From an earlier study and posted to another topic......The proof is in the pudding
See below
Couldn't help but notice that what appeared to be thermal breakers were used rather than blade fuses, simply felt that you might benefit from my observation. I have nothing to gain, you do though
Thermal circuit breakers aren't the safest and most reliable way to protect your vehicles circuits, mentioning aircraft circuits doesn't alter anything
Thermal circuit breakers are slow blow and can be the ideal solution for protecting motor circuits that tend to momentarily draw a higher current at start-up than when up to operating speed
They look like Klixon circuit breakers, are they?
You may be interested in the below information that shows the big differences between Klixon 7274 circuit breakers (many other breakers are slower blow) and standard ATO blade fuses
Using 10 Amp specification for breaker and blade fuses @ twice the normal current being drawn (20 Amps through 10 Amp protection)
The blade fuse will blow in 0.5 of a second (Manufacturer Littlefuse states .15 sec., Min.; 5 sec., Max.)
The Klixon circuit breaker will trip in 2 to 20 seconds
As can be seen, there is a massive difference between blade and circuit breaker
Blade ATO fuse 0.15 secs min/5 secs max
Klixon circuit breaker 2 secs min/20 secs max
There's more and it matters much - Voltage Drop across protection
Blade ATO 10 Amp fuses have a volt-drop of 0.109 volts @ 10 Amps
Klixon 10 Amp breakers have a volt-drop of 0.28 volts @ 10 Amps
Hoping that you enjoy reading through the above information and possibly benefit from it
Your car is beautiful
You need to find yourself a girlfriend and get out more Anyway, as ever the theory drives the practice
Circuit breakers aren't a good idea
From an earlier study and posted to another topic......The proof is in the pudding
See below
Couldn't help but notice that what appeared to be thermal breakers were used rather than blade fuses, simply felt that you might benefit from my observation. I have nothing to gain, you do though
Thermal circuit breakers aren't the safest and most reliable way to protect your vehicles circuits, mentioning aircraft circuits doesn't alter anything
Thermal circuit breakers are slow blow and can be the ideal solution for protecting motor circuits that tend to momentarily draw a higher current at start-up than when up to operating speed
They look like Klixon circuit breakers, are they?
You may be interested in the below information that shows the big differences between Klixon 7274 circuit breakers (many other breakers are slower blow) and standard ATO blade fuses
Using 10 Amp specification for breaker and blade fuses @ twice the normal current being drawn (20 Amps through 10 Amp protection)
The blade fuse will blow in 0.5 of a second (Manufacturer Littlefuse states .15 sec., Min.; 5 sec., Max.)
The Klixon circuit breaker will trip in 2 to 20 seconds
As can be seen, there is a massive difference between blade and circuit breaker
Blade ATO fuse 0.15 secs min/5 secs max
Klixon circuit breaker 2 secs min/20 secs max
There's more and it matters much - Voltage Drop across protection
Blade ATO 10 Amp fuses have a volt-drop of 0.109 volts @ 10 Amps
Klixon 10 Amp breakers have a volt-drop of 0.28 volts @ 10 Amps
Hoping that you enjoy reading through the above information and possibly benefit from it
Your car is beautiful
N.
Polly Grigora said:
Girlfriend?
What happened to freedom of choice?
Boyfriend or a pet dog then :-D What happened to freedom of choice?
I think pop outs are still on the most part perfectly reliable for cars which are correctly wired and have man enough cables.
and convenient. they may be slightly slower to react but for most of the circuits in car wiring more than adequate ;-)
Nowt wrong with Fuses but sometimes say in a race car its easier to push a pop out back in.
Horses for courses.
N.
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