Vixen door window mechanism/frame

Vixen door window mechanism/frame

Author
Discussion

mel-s3

Original Poster:

176 posts

263 months

Friday 4th February 2005
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Have any of you guys dismantled a Vixen door mechanism and removed the aluminium frame. The bottom steel section on mine needs to be renewed because of rot. Also one aluminium runner has broken away from it causing the glass to bind. Any tips and advise on how to remove and repair the complete mechanism/frame would be much appreciated.

vixen1700

23,074 posts

271 months

Saturday 5th February 2005
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God, my window mechanism is virtually non-existant, and has some 34 year old lump of wood making it work.

mawds

825 posts

241 months

Sunday 6th February 2005
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from past experience - make it up as you go along, but add a lower "loop" to the frame, ie "car-side" of the glass, running down the inner side of the outer skin, then coming towards the driver and up the inside, a mounting plate of some sort for the winder handle is also a good idea - this way, the torque of the winder isn't pushing against the glassfibre of the door in order to raise the window, cutting a nice little ring for itself over time. Mine had been "strengthened" at the time of manufacture at the stress points by the addition of used matchsticks to the fibre mix...

...surprising it held on for 30 years, really.

ren32

116 posts

231 months

Sunday 1st May 2005
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I've just made some support brackets to fit in the bottom of my Vixen doors. The only problem is that the glass stops about 2 inches early when unwound, as the operating arm hits the bracket. Should the window fully retract into the door?? Anyone??

glassthorpe

94 posts

285 months

Sunday 1st May 2005
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Mine doesn't. When fully wound down about 1.5 inches of glass is still showing.
Just as well really, I have to pull it up manually as the mechanism is worn out!

mawds

825 posts

241 months

Monday 2nd May 2005
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mine retracts fully.

Not sure if this means it's broken or not...

ATE399J

729 posts

238 months

Monday 9th May 2005
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Mine go down to about 3/4" showing at the highest point, flush at the rear end. On mine TVR had cut away most of the front ("I" section) and rear ("U" section) to leave two nice weak alloy tongues that bolt to the two part frame in the door. Ended up rivetting steel tongues to the original frames to extend then down to where they bolt on to the frame in the door - not very elegant but then you can't see it!