And So It Begins

And So It Begins

Author
Discussion

Dollyman1850

6,318 posts

251 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
quotequote all
Moto said:
Are you going for a new chassis or strip, repair and finish the original?

Moto
Blast it first then decide....
A chassis will add £2500 to the finishing cost of a restoration, a chunk of money but relatively small in the cost / benefit stakes I know what I would be doing, but its always better to look at a naked freshly blasted one in the flesh and determined how bad the pock marks are externally.

N.

Andrew Gray

4,969 posts

150 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
quotequote all
jaybee747 said:
A good couple of hours stripping rear end and wiring loom to the front of the car.

Is this rear cover original?

Jaybee
Yes Original and the Bracket for the spare wheel holder as welll is spot on And the piece of Check mate plate covering the fuel sender access dont lose them






Andrew



Edited by Andrew Gray on Sunday 25th June 20:22

AussG4

33 posts

146 months

Monday 26th June 2017
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I do like the current body colour and wonder if you know what it is.
It looks similar to Lotus Pistachio green although its not always easy to tell from photos.

jaybee747

Original Poster:

141 posts

222 months

Monday 26th June 2017
quotequote all
Dollyman/Moto.

Yes, blasting first. As I`ve said the chassis is very strong, hammers in all areas, even jumping on outriggers, sort of, doesn`t bother it at all. I know it`s not the right way of proof but it`s a good sign. I know at the end of the day, it`s a 45 year old chassis and blasting will show what I`m up against.
My only concern is the crack, which is a crack and not rust orientated. Why and how in that area?

Andrew

Yes, the only problem is in the parts I was given with the car, the wheel retainer you`ve pictured is missing. Don`t think I`ll source one of those but will try to get/make something similar.

AussG4

All original but do you really like it? Couldn`t tell you of the correct colour but the pictures are pretty clear.
No sign of previous colours but the car has been repainted, albeit badly. Not much masking either if you see the previous photos. Hand painted signs too!
I`m thinking of a colour change but that's a long way off yet. (Classic white me thinks).

Jaybee

anonymous-user

55 months

Monday 26th June 2017
quotequote all
Chassis will rust from the inside.

I cut into some very good chassis tubes on our M to facilitate modification, the findings pushed me down the new chassis route.

Corrosion is more than skin deep ....

Moto

1,240 posts

254 months

Monday 26th June 2017
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Question to anyone who knows. Did Vixen chassis' have a chassis number etched into them? If so where?

Moto

Dollyman1850

6,318 posts

251 months

Tuesday 27th June 2017
quotequote all
Moto said:
Question to anyone who knows. Did Vixen chassis' have a chassis number etched into them? If so where?

Moto
No.
Only chassis plate on Bulkhead.

Andrew Gray

4,969 posts

150 months

Tuesday 27th June 2017
quotequote all
jaybee747 said:
Dollyman/Moto.

Andrew

Yes, the only problem is in the parts I was given with the car, the wheel retainer you`ve pictured is missing. Don`t think I`ll source one of those but will try to get/make something similar.

Jaybee
Yes the greatest majority of cars it is missing including mine i suspect as its removed when people got a puncture then in a hurry to get going again at some point was forgotten and lost probably many left on the side of the road.
I found a car which still had it intact and borrowed it to make a new one in stainless.
Easy to replicate from the pictures the top is meant for a tool role to sit in i am told.
Andrew


AussG4

33 posts

146 months

Tuesday 27th June 2017
quotequote all
Needless to say colour choice is so personal and subjective. Have always thought a car like a vixen should
be something slightly unusual ( orange would be my pick ) and leave your whites, silvers, greys and blacks
for mum's SUV and dad's leased BMW.

GinG15

501 posts

172 months

Thursday 6th July 2017
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from viewing the chassis pics there is only 1 logic decision possible:

new chassis

jaybee747

Original Poster:

141 posts

222 months

Friday 7th July 2017
quotequote all
Chassis is now stripped and I'm still going to get it blasted as the strength is there.
Minimal cost to get to this stage but it will show what is what. Will post pictures after blasting and any advice or direction will be appreciated.

Jaybee

GinG15

501 posts

172 months

Sunday 9th July 2017
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how much is a new chassis?

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

110 months

Sunday 9th July 2017
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I can design you a very nice wiring loom including a fusebox and relay plate of your choice all done for free, all you will need in addition to the fusebox and relay plate are a few rolls of loom tape and some lengths of the required colour coded cable, when done I would send you the drawings
In return all I would wish you to do is place a label on the loom near to the fusebox stating " Designed By Penelope Stopit " although I wouldn't hold you to this

jaybee747

Original Poster:

141 posts

222 months

Tuesday 11th July 2017
quotequote all
PS.

As this is the most daunting task, it would be more than welcome if you could do this for me. No problem regarding the endorsement on the loom.
If you know the lengths and colours required or any critical info, please let me know as this will be a bit of a struggle for me.
Your service is worth more than just an "on car" advert though.

Many thanks

Jaybee

Pat H

8,056 posts

257 months

Wednesday 12th July 2017
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I had no choice but to get a new chassis, as mine was absolutely knackered.

Keith built me a lovely chassis, with thicker tubes, matching wishbones, beefy wishbone brackets, a nice roll over hoop and, perhaps most importantly, a completely revised mounting system for the diff.

It wasn't a cheap day out. The chassis/wishbones cost between £2500 and £3000, and that was a while ago. Then you need to set aside another £1000 to get it all blasted and powder coated.

Even so, I reckon it was a very worthwhile investment.

Funnily enough, the original diff mounting for my Tuscan was also fractured, so I was quite keen to find a proper solution to the problem.



And this is the fix...