M wheels/tyres and suspension
Discussion
The M I bought a fortnight ago has got the wolfrace wheels with 195/70 HR 14 tyres.
Initially the car drove ok but a very harsh ride, so I reset the AVO's to No 4 instead of the 10 they were set at.
After a couple of hundred miles the front tyres are now fouling the wheel arches.
According to the handbook the tyres should be 185 so do I need to change them?
Are the tyres the problem or has the suspension settled, and do I need to alter the spring height to bring the body away from the wheel arch.
Any help greatfully received.
G.
Initially the car drove ok but a very harsh ride, so I reset the AVO's to No 4 instead of the 10 they were set at.
After a couple of hundred miles the front tyres are now fouling the wheel arches.
According to the handbook the tyres should be 185 so do I need to change them?
Are the tyres the problem or has the suspension settled, and do I need to alter the spring height to bring the body away from the wheel arch.
Any help greatfully received.
G.
The original M tyres were 185's (effectively 82 profile), 195/70's were fitted to the Turbo cars and are what many owners run, I ran these for years without issues.
I would suggest that your front springs may not be up to the job, (as the shock absorber gave a hard ride on a high setting (ie it was acting as the spring) and a soft ride - hitting the arches on a lower setting, suggesting it was functioning as a shock absorber but the spring is too soft.
195/70s should be ok, I'd look at the springs to start with.
davidy
I would suggest that your front springs may not be up to the job, (as the shock absorber gave a hard ride on a high setting (ie it was acting as the spring) and a soft ride - hitting the arches on a lower setting, suggesting it was functioning as a shock absorber but the spring is too soft.
195/70s should be ok, I'd look at the springs to start with.
davidy
I had a Taimar from new and there was about three fingers of space between the front tyre and the wheel arch, take a look at the 1978/79 sales literature and that's about the same amount.
My 3000S (see my Profile) conversely seems to have a bit too much clearance, although it's been like that for the past 10 years at least, and I've seen some restorations with huge amounts of space (which looks terrible IMHO).
My 3000S (see my Profile) conversely seems to have a bit too much clearance, although it's been like that for the past 10 years at least, and I've seen some restorations with huge amounts of space (which looks terrible IMHO).
thornogson said:
Are the tyres the problem?
No
thornogson said:
Just checked and I can only get one finger in, but not two.
It does sound like your car is about 15mm too low.
thornogson said:
The springs are supposed to be new. The AVO's are adjustable with a movable collar, so perhaps these want moving upwards?
Sounds like a good first step.
IIRC the clearance form the ground to the chassis immediately behind the front wheel should be 152mm for the 185R14s and 140mm for the 195/70/14s.
New springs of a correct rate (or correct unsprung length) I would guess?!?
If the springs are new (ish) or in good condition, the vehicle should be the correct height effectively without a shock absorber when stationery.
I'd talk to Adrian at Exactly TVR and go from there
davidy
>> Edited by davidy on Friday 29th July 09:27
If the springs are new (ish) or in good condition, the vehicle should be the correct height effectively without a shock absorber when stationery.
I'd talk to Adrian at Exactly TVR and go from there
davidy
>> Edited by davidy on Friday 29th July 09:27
thornogson said:
I have just measured the clearance and the chassis is 140 mm from the ground behind the front wheel. Where do I go from here?
Double check how the bonnet sits on the car but I guess that davidy is correct and you need stiffer springs and maybe a touch longer as well. PS do you need to update your profile G? J
You'll probably end up with a car a touch higher than 'normal' but hey, this is a TVR. You may wish to read the S forum in which Peter said a very similar thing. www.pistonheads.com/gassing/post.asp?r=2356024&t=196199&h=0&f=11&m=quoteReply&cb=205454
Have a happy w/e. J
GreenV8S said:
I suggest that before you fit the dampers you estimate the spring seat position to give you your required ride height, and set both sides to the same. If the ride height isn't quite right when fitted then adjust both sides up or down by the same amount to ensure the car stays level. Trying to 'level' the car by eye is a very bad idea and likely to end up with the corner weights miles out.
Have a happy w/e. J
The good thing about speaking to me is that I have cornerweighted about 50 M series and like to think that I know where to start from with all my spring rates and send each set out with the spring fitted and marked front and rear and with free advice on how to fit them (I did supply this set some 4 years and 3 owners ago). I too had been reading the thread on the S forum as it evolved, and thought that it was best to keep quiet....`cause I would advise anyone with ride height shocks to get the car cornerweightd to get the very best out of their investment. Take your car to a person that has a lots and lots of expierience cornerweighting with the model car that you have, I guess that might be err....me. I should add that the thread did mention about the fact that raising or lowering the car affects the suspension settings and these will need to be checked and set, I like to think that I am pretty damn good at that too.
(as for hands and fingers as a way to gauge the gap, I did have to giggle....and got a smack for being cheeky by the wife)
(as for hands and fingers as a way to gauge the gap, I did have to giggle....and got a smack for being cheeky by the wife)
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