New wheels for a 1600M
Discussion
davidy said:
Neil you are right about tyre width and a very valid point. My 205s were on 7" and my 225's on 9"!!!! however since sybaseian wants to drift he definitely should not go for a wide tyre (especially on a narrow rim!) I would have thought given the power of his car a 195 is the most that he wants to go.
davidy
Very true - at the moment its over-tyred for the rims and for the car, which was why I was looking at 195/60 R15 or 205/50 R16 to keep the current rolling circumference and have a greater choice of rubber. I can still get 215/60 R14s (unusal maker) but they are over £75 each compared to £50 each for 195/60 R15s Pirellis.
If you are going to dift it, surely you want the car quite stiff and low (M's do roll a surprising amount on standard rate springs).
Unless you are going to drive it loads on the road and noise and mpg matter to you, then I wouldn't worry about rducing the rolling diameter a bit.
Just remember a new tyre has 8mm of tread so when the treads are down to 1mm, you just lost 14mm of rolling diameter!
davidy
Unless you are going to drive it loads on the road and noise and mpg matter to you, then I wouldn't worry about rducing the rolling diameter a bit.
Just remember a new tyre has 8mm of tread so when the treads are down to 1mm, you just lost 14mm of rolling diameter!
davidy
heightswitch said:
Talk to tech del (minilite) and he can cast you a proper minilite for the same price as the ML. Your other option is to fabricate some new lower wishbones and piggyback the lower damper mount. this then allows you to go much wider with big arches??
IMHO Minilite are a better finished wheel than the ml
Neil..
Does he have a website?
Cheers
Ian
davidy said:
If you are going to dift it, surely you want the car quite stiff and low (M's do roll a surprising amount on standard rate springs).
Unless you are going to drive it loads on the road and noise and mpg matter to you, then I wouldn't worry about rducing the rolling diameter a bit.
Just remember a new tyre has 8mm of tread so when the treads are down to 1mm, you just lost 14mm of rolling diameter!
davidy
The car has new adjustable spax shocks which are compliant but firm with very little body roll. The only minor issue is that the tyres tuck under as they are a bit too big for the rims.
Going to 195/60 R15s will slightly increase the sidewall stiffness over the current tyres without affecting the compliant ride and reduce tuck. After all, I will still be using it on the road as well as drifting.
heightswitch said:
Minilite are
www.minilite.co.uk
Neil.
Just had an email back from Don Simmonds at minilite - they don't do a suitable 16" with the correct offset and wouldn't recommend using a 16" with the M Series. They do have a suitable 15" for £100 + VAT each including nuts and centre caps.
Looks like I'll either by using 195/60 R15 (cheaper) or 225/50 R15 (better compounds) on the new wheels.
Thanks for all the advice.
Ian
Yesterday, I had the original wheels balanced as there used to be a slight vibration @ 70mph, but now the vibration is much worse.
Today, I had them re-checked at a different garage and the wheels are correctly balanced according to the machine but it still hasn't solved the problem.
Any ideas???
Today, I had them re-checked at a different garage and the wheels are correctly balanced according to the machine but it still hasn't solved the problem.
Any ideas???
Try this ...about 6 years ago the make-supplier of the stub axles to the Truimph world made a batch of stub axles that had the wrong taper and internally, these as the male part did not fit into the female part (the upright) without allowing the whole stub axle to rock, I recalled all of mine that I had sold and replaced them with the replacement units, I believe that the Truimph people that were supplied with these were also informed that there was a fault....but very little of the stock ever got back to the supplier, these stub axles cause this very problem.
Adrian
>> Edited by adrian@ on Thursday 20th October 13:40
Adrian
>> Edited by adrian@ on Thursday 20th October 13:40
adrian@ said:
Try this ...about 6 years ago the make-supplier of the stub axles to the Truimph world made a batch of stub axles that had the wrong taper and internally, these as the male part did not fit into the female part (the upright) without allowing the whole stub axle to rock, I recalled all of mine that I had sold and replaced them with the replacement units, I believe that the Truimph people that were supplied with these were also informed that there was a fault....but very little of the stock ever got back to the supplier, these stub axles cause this very problem.
Adrian
>> Edited by adrian@ on Thursday 20th October 13:40
Thanks Adrian, one of the tyre fitters did mention that there was some play with the front right. What is the likeky cost to sort the problem out and could you fit me in??
cheers,
Ian
I assume you have looked at this previous posting?
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=156274&f=34&h=0
It comes up on page 9 on my computer as topic "15x6J what offset is required for 3000M?" and details the 16" wheels fitted to my car that are working very well. Biggest problem was at the front where the inside of the 16" wheel rim is very close to the upper balljoint mount and I had to grind outer end of the wishbone a small amount here or it touched at full lock. If I had fitted a thicker spacer then my tyres would have rubber more on the bonnet wheel arch lip which also needed grinding away a bit (does not show at all). This lip touched when cornering really hard or hitting a big bump when cornering normally and might not have happened at all if my shocks were better!
I have not been able to get rid of all wheel vibration despite changing most bearings, all u/j's, all suspension bushings, trunnions, wheels and my rack but it is much better than it used to be. It is, of course, worst at about 70 mph! I think to get it any beter I am going to have to modify my hubs to provide hub-centric wheel locations. (Has anyone done this yet?) My wheels have been balenced on a balencer that locates the wheels by the bolt holes as opposed to the wheel centre but that did not seem to make much difference. My Khomos went out of round after a track day at about 8000 km which made the vibration from the wheels really bad and had to be replaced. Good tyres have made the most difference to my vibration problems
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=156274&f=34&h=0
It comes up on page 9 on my computer as topic "15x6J what offset is required for 3000M?" and details the 16" wheels fitted to my car that are working very well. Biggest problem was at the front where the inside of the 16" wheel rim is very close to the upper balljoint mount and I had to grind outer end of the wishbone a small amount here or it touched at full lock. If I had fitted a thicker spacer then my tyres would have rubber more on the bonnet wheel arch lip which also needed grinding away a bit (does not show at all). This lip touched when cornering really hard or hitting a big bump when cornering normally and might not have happened at all if my shocks were better!
I have not been able to get rid of all wheel vibration despite changing most bearings, all u/j's, all suspension bushings, trunnions, wheels and my rack but it is much better than it used to be. It is, of course, worst at about 70 mph! I think to get it any beter I am going to have to modify my hubs to provide hub-centric wheel locations. (Has anyone done this yet?) My wheels have been balenced on a balencer that locates the wheels by the bolt holes as opposed to the wheel centre but that did not seem to make much difference. My Khomos went out of round after a track day at about 8000 km which made the vibration from the wheels really bad and had to be replaced. Good tyres have made the most difference to my vibration problems
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