Discussion
Just seen the Bornemann 3000M on a DSF repeat.....
Car looks good, but not sure about the description ''pit bull'' which was used more than once!!
Good to see that they do a lot of work on the chassis, putting in (looks like 1"
extra bracing to fill in the ''boxes''.
I don''t suppose many 3000M owners have seen their rev counters go round to 8000 either!
Spin
extra bracing to fill in the ''boxes''.
I don''t suppose many 3000M owners have seen their rev counters go round to 8000 either!
Spin 
It was part of 'Motor Klassik' which is about half an hour long, and was at the start talking about the VW factory, with 'Kafers'. Then the Bornemann TVR for about 10minutes or so in the middle. Interesting shots of the mods to the chassis. Very clean workshops. Car seems to 'hop' a bit - maybe damping a little wrong at the back? See what you think.
One thing - look out for the seats! They look 'period', a bit like Caterham seats, and have high backs with harness slots. Black ?vinyl?
Spin
Interesting stuff guys.
Hi I'm a new member - While you're on the subject of stiffening the chassis, do you know of anything that it would be worthwhile doing to my Taimar chassis before I start building it up again? Don't want to be kicking myself in the future for the sake of investing a bit of time at this stage.
Hi,
Sorry - wasn't able to vid the clip as my vid chews tapes now......!
Maybe Hansgerd can tell you?
All I remember is that they seem to have filled in some of the 'open' sections in the main backbone with cross members in what looked like 1" tube. Presumably this would make it torsionally more stiff?
Spin
Hi,
Sorry - wasn't able to vid the clip as my vid chews tapes now......!
Maybe Hansgerd can tell you?
All I remember is that they seem to have filled in some of the 'open' sections in the main backbone with cross members in what looked like 1" tube. Presumably this would make it torsionally more stiff?
Spin
Thanks. In general, the M-chassis looks pretty strong to me and maybe it needs nothing doing unless you modify it to Bournemann levels. The only thing I spotted on mine was that the tabs that are welded to the chassis to recieve the lower front suspension arms were a bit distorted. I did suspect accident damage but its present on both sides.
Given the torque of the essex motor, has anyone seen any stressing around the engine mounts?
Be careful - my Vixen 'tabs' look well out of line but in fact it's built-in anti-dive/anti-squat so that the wishbones are not exactly level.
Best to check the set-up from scratch and see how it goes. I've set the Vixen up exactly(as best I can with string!!) as per the original S2 manual and I think it handles fine.
Spin
While the Bournmann 'M' subject is still going, has anyone noticed the tie rod that splits the front windscreen? This was something I fitted to my Taimar a few months ago.
When I bought the car originally, I noticed that when driving it fast in the wet, I used to get water coming in through the windscreen seal at the top, dripping down the inside of the glass and disappearing off somewhere behind the dash. Apart from being very off-putting whilst driving, I was concerned what it was doing to my electrics so I had the windscreen professionally re-sealed. This made no difference. I then stuffed loads of Silicone sealer up behind it, but this made it worse. I then had it re-sealed by someone else, but again it made no difference. At this point I gave up and stuffed a sponge behind the dash to collect the water before it did any damage.
I was chatting to a fellow member some months ago and he said he'd had exactly the same problem. The reason for it however, is that at high speed the pressure difference between the inside and the outside of the car is enough to actually lift the flimsy fibreglass roof off the top of the windscreen, thus allowing the water in.
From this I arrived at the tie bar idea much like those fitted to the rear screen of the Taimar. I've bonded two support plates into the body below and above the windscreen, one with a RH nut welded to it and the other with a slot into which I can slide the tie bar. This has a nut welded on the end so it can rotate in the plate, but is held firm. The rod han then be inserted into the nut fixed to the plate and turned clockwise to tighten the roof down.
As an added bonus, it makes a great support to clamp the rear view mirror to rather than bonding it to the glass.
I thought I'd mention it in case any other hard-top TVR owners suffer from this problem and can't find the cause.
When I bought the car originally, I noticed that when driving it fast in the wet, I used to get water coming in through the windscreen seal at the top, dripping down the inside of the glass and disappearing off somewhere behind the dash. Apart from being very off-putting whilst driving, I was concerned what it was doing to my electrics so I had the windscreen professionally re-sealed. This made no difference. I then stuffed loads of Silicone sealer up behind it, but this made it worse. I then had it re-sealed by someone else, but again it made no difference. At this point I gave up and stuffed a sponge behind the dash to collect the water before it did any damage.
I was chatting to a fellow member some months ago and he said he'd had exactly the same problem. The reason for it however, is that at high speed the pressure difference between the inside and the outside of the car is enough to actually lift the flimsy fibreglass roof off the top of the windscreen, thus allowing the water in.
From this I arrived at the tie bar idea much like those fitted to the rear screen of the Taimar. I've bonded two support plates into the body below and above the windscreen, one with a RH nut welded to it and the other with a slot into which I can slide the tie bar. This has a nut welded on the end so it can rotate in the plate, but is held firm. The rod han then be inserted into the nut fixed to the plate and turned clockwise to tighten the roof down.
As an added bonus, it makes a great support to clamp the rear view mirror to rather than bonding it to the glass.
I thought I'd mention it in case any other hard-top TVR owners suffer from this problem and can't find the cause.
SJAM, yes I noticed the bar as well in the Bornemann car. And I also have the same problem that somehow water gets into the car around the front windscreen. The bar is a good idea to prevent this. The idea to use the bar to connect the rear mirror to is brilliant. Thanks, I haven't thought about this before.
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff