Discussion
There are a lot more S's to choose from than the 3000S which don't seem to come up for sale that often. Mind you saying that there are 2 in last months Sprint. I should think the S would be easier to use everyday but I would think the 3000S is easier to maintain.
That probably hasn't helped much but I think your best bet is to drive both of them and see which one suits you.
Nige (Vixen S3 & 3000S)
That probably hasn't helped much but I think your best bet is to drive both of them and see which one suits you.
Nige (Vixen S3 & 3000S)
Between 91-95 my brother/father jointly had a 3000S and I had an 280S or S1. (Still got the S1).
3000S - windows go in boot, rag top roof.
S series - roof panel goes in boot, wind up windows.
Our 3000S only had 4 speeds (but some modified), O/D may be option. (useful for Motorways to get there!)
178 (approx) 3000S made, many exported to USA!
See recent thread of 3000S owners on yahoo groups - either USA_TVR or pre-1980 TVR, virtually the same group, with lots of cross posting!
(although one batch was returned!)
2000+ S's made, a few exported to Europe.
So 3000S rarer and more expensive.
You can (in theory) get a Turbo 3000S (but only 6 (I think) made). That Autocar test, petrol coming out of the filler, set me down the TVR road.
S series - 12 years+ old - check chassis
3000S - 25 years old - really check the chassis, even if it has a new DG one from 12 years ago!
3L V6 with Carbs - check U/L situation.
(some 3100M's about!)
2.9 V6 EFi U/L okay I think.
(2.8 V6 PI U/L possibly okay.)
Happy hunting.
>> Edited by tvrgaas on Thursday 22 May 13:33
3000S - windows go in boot, rag top roof.
S series - roof panel goes in boot, wind up windows.
Our 3000S only had 4 speeds (but some modified), O/D may be option. (useful for Motorways to get there!)
178 (approx) 3000S made, many exported to USA!
See recent thread of 3000S owners on yahoo groups - either USA_TVR or pre-1980 TVR, virtually the same group, with lots of cross posting!
(although one batch was returned!)
2000+ S's made, a few exported to Europe.
So 3000S rarer and more expensive.
You can (in theory) get a Turbo 3000S (but only 6 (I think) made). That Autocar test, petrol coming out of the filler, set me down the TVR road.
S series - 12 years+ old - check chassis
3000S - 25 years old - really check the chassis, even if it has a new DG one from 12 years ago!
3L V6 with Carbs - check U/L situation.
(some 3100M's about!)
2.9 V6 EFi U/L okay I think.
(2.8 V6 PI U/L possibly okay.)
Happy hunting.
>> Edited by tvrgaas on Thursday 22 May 13:33
Thanks to all...it was the 'continental' advert in Sprint that caught my eye (I live abroad). Main concern is availability of spares and ease of maintenance - I can do the basics (and S. Heath's bible for S looks excellent in support), but do not have the skills or access to specialist equipment to 'create' (un-available) spares.
I'd prefer a real classic, but maybe 25 yrs old is just too much of a risk ...
good comment about 4-speed !
I'd prefer a real classic, but maybe 25 yrs old is just too much of a risk ...
good comment about 4-speed !
duncscz said: Main concern is availability of spares and ease of maintenance
The 3000S is mechanically similar to the rest of the M series, David Gerald and Adrian Venn, to name two, offer spares etc.
www.davidgeraldtvr.com/
www.exactly-tvr.demon.co.uk/
Just noticed your surname on your profile!
duncscz said:
I'd prefer a real classic, but maybe 25 yrs old is just too much of a risk ...
!
I know quite a few people who use cars over 25 years everyday with very few or no problems. If the car has been looked after and well maintained you shouldn't get any more problems as you would with a younger car and also it's easier to fix. I used my over 25 year old Reliant Scimitar (Same engine as 3000S) everyday for nearly 2 years with no problems.
I've been restoring my 3000S and have had no problems with parts, even ones that are specific to the 3000S as opposed to the ones the same as the M's.
I've had several examples of both models. The 3000S is undoubtedly more of a 'classic' than the S will ever be but the S is more 'user-friendly' for daily use.
Basic difference is that the 3000S relies on older British components (engine, gearbox, diff, front suspension, steering and brakes) and the S has more modern German (Ford) equivalent parts.
The fact that I've had my present 3000S for 19 years and the longest I kept an S was for 4 months tells you something about my preference.
Basic difference is that the 3000S relies on older British components (engine, gearbox, diff, front suspension, steering and brakes) and the S has more modern German (Ford) equivalent parts.
The fact that I've had my present 3000S for 19 years and the longest I kept an S was for 4 months tells you something about my preference.
duncscz
The only 'really expensive' thing maintenance wise is the chassis. They usually rot out in the square section rails above the diff (can be viewed through the rear wheel arches) and in the square sections just before rear wheels and those just after the front wheels. I have seen rot in other odd areas on an M series car but these are not usually consistent.
If the car is on an original chassis (especially with TVRs sound deadening carpet type insulation designed to hold water), then walk away go and find another car.
I would look for a car that has been rechassised (or properly restored) to save you the grief of doing it yourself.
Generally the mechanical bits are all fairly tough, some spares getting difficult to get hold of but nothing too taxing.
On a 3000S check the hood is OK and that the sidescreens are not rotted (v. expensive to replace). Windscreen (and Frame) is also a TVR special (cut down Jensen Healey Frame).
Otherwise have fun looking.
If you need any other pointers give someone like Adrian Venn (Exactly TVR) or Steve Reid (Classic TVR - Gamekeeper on PH), they even may be able to help you locate a good car - worldwide.
davidy
The only 'really expensive' thing maintenance wise is the chassis. They usually rot out in the square section rails above the diff (can be viewed through the rear wheel arches) and in the square sections just before rear wheels and those just after the front wheels. I have seen rot in other odd areas on an M series car but these are not usually consistent.
If the car is on an original chassis (especially with TVRs sound deadening carpet type insulation designed to hold water), then walk away go and find another car.
I would look for a car that has been rechassised (or properly restored) to save you the grief of doing it yourself.
Generally the mechanical bits are all fairly tough, some spares getting difficult to get hold of but nothing too taxing.
On a 3000S check the hood is OK and that the sidescreens are not rotted (v. expensive to replace). Windscreen (and Frame) is also a TVR special (cut down Jensen Healey Frame).
Otherwise have fun looking.
If you need any other pointers give someone like Adrian Venn (Exactly TVR) or Steve Reid (Classic TVR - Gamekeeper on PH), they even may be able to help you locate a good car - worldwide.
davidy
If it has the original felt in it above the chassis then just walk away.
For that sort of money Steve Reid or Adrian Venn should be able to source you a recently restored car.
A chassis replacement costs from £1500 (if you do the work yourself) to £5K+ depending on what needs doing. It is better to have let someelse have done this work.
davidy
For that sort of money Steve Reid or Adrian Venn should be able to source you a recently restored car.
A chassis replacement costs from £1500 (if you do the work yourself) to £5K+ depending on what needs doing. It is better to have let someelse have done this work.
davidy
But don't forget that chassis corrosion/rot isn't confined to pre-1980 TVRs. I had a 4 year old 350i that had corroded outriggers (only noticeable on a ramp) and I've seen a few S models where the chassis needed attention.
This thread makes for interesting (and alarming) reading
www.pistonheads.net/gassing/topic.asp?t=32483&f=13&h=0&hw=chassis
This thread makes for interesting (and alarming) reading
www.pistonheads.net/gassing/topic.asp?t=32483&f=13&h=0&hw=chassis
I've nearly finished restoring my 3000S that has the original chassis and mine only had rot on the front outriggers which were easily replaced. The rest of the chassis was fine despite the original soggy felt.
I've got the restoration on my website http://nwarner.worldonline.co.uk/tvr3000s.html which shows where the rot in the chassis was.
I've got the restoration on my website http://nwarner.worldonline.co.uk/tvr3000s.html which shows where the rot in the chassis was.
Sounds like you were lucky Nigel.
I still don't reckon its worth the risk if the felt is there as you can only truely see the rot once the body is off and you can attack the chassis. On my Taimar some of the rear square and round rails looked solid but when attacked by a demonic Russ Wood weilding a childs plastic mallet crumbled!!!
There are plenty of cars for sale (relatively) if you don't want to sort the chassis out, buy one thats been done.
Agree with Colin (Terminator) about more recent cars rotting as well, best to buy with advice (Adrian Venn) and enter the job with you eyes wide open.
davidy
I still don't reckon its worth the risk if the felt is there as you can only truely see the rot once the body is off and you can attack the chassis. On my Taimar some of the rear square and round rails looked solid but when attacked by a demonic Russ Wood weilding a childs plastic mallet crumbled!!!
There are plenty of cars for sale (relatively) if you don't want to sort the chassis out, buy one thats been done.
Agree with Colin (Terminator) about more recent cars rotting as well, best to buy with advice (Adrian Venn) and enter the job with you eyes wide open.
davidy
A restored one just went for $25K in the USA.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2415507661
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2415507661
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